Click Here -> Please Consider Making a PayPal Contribution to the FordSix Forum!
If you would like to contribute via check, cash, etc, please PM 1966Mustang

Tans and Clutch swap today

Moderator: Mod Squad

rmcphearson
Registered User
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:23 pm

Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #1 by rmcphearson » Sat May 05, 2018 10:45 am

I'm removing the original 2.77? trans, dog dish flywheel, busted bell housing, and shuddering clutch from my '62 ranchero (which has a 1970 170 block) and putting in a 3.03 trans, flat flywheel and clutch and bellhousing that all came out of a 1969 Mustang with a 200.

Any tips or HeadsUps are appreciated. Wish me luck. This is my daily driver. Gotta get it done by 5 am monday morning.

-Roland in NJ

rmcphearson
Registered User
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:23 pm

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #2 by rmcphearson » Sat May 05, 2018 12:18 pm

What is supposed to support the rear of the engine? It looks like the oil pan is resting on the "crossmember?"- the round bar that goes under the pan. I took the trans off without having to add additional support to the back of the engine.

User avatar
Eric Rose
Registered User
Posts: 544
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 3:57 pm
Location: Athens, GA

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #3 by Eric Rose » Sun May 06, 2018 4:56 pm

There are only 3 mounts, front mounts on the left and right on the engine, and the transmission mount in the rear. The engine oil pan should sit above the under engine crossmember with about an inch to spare.
I got 350 heads on a 305 engine. I get 10 miles to the gallon, I ain't got no good intentions.
- Mike Cooley, aka the Stroker Ace.

User avatar
bubba22349
Global Moderator
Posts: 8456
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:46 pm
Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #4 by bubba22349 » Sun May 06, 2018 9:03 pm

X2 I agree also examine that the rear trans mount is compleate and in good condition. Check out the below link showing pictures and all the info of these rear trans mounts. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

viewtopic.php?f=76&t=77972
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

rmcphearson
Registered User
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:23 pm

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #5 by rmcphearson » Mon May 07, 2018 2:51 pm

I had to beat the tunnel up in a couple places to get the bell housing to fit. I couldn't get access the top drivers bolt in the bell housing. Also, I couldn't get access to install the top drivers trans bolt. I think I will have to cut holes in the tunnel and install those two bolts from the cab.

In order to install the floor shifter that came with this trans it looks like I will have to cut through all or most of the cross brace that is welded under the tunnel side-to-side. I'm guessing that's going to weaken the floor significantly. Am I looking at this right?

I'm wondering if the original tree shifter linkage will bolt up to this trans without modification?

rmcphearson
Registered User
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:23 pm

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #6 by rmcphearson » Mon May 07, 2018 3:01 pm

By the way, the first order of business to do the swap (since Napa didn't have the correct pilot bushing in stock and I was in a hurry) was to bore the pilot bushing from .625 to .672 to accommodate the bigger shaft of the 3.03 trans. Since the new leather belt for my 1930s era Hardinge lathe has been waiting a month for me to install it (the old belt broke last month) it was high time I did it. I bored the bushing and also made a clutch alignment pin (not shown) out of an old tractor pin.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

User avatar
powerband
FSP Moderator
Posts: 1880
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 6:45 pm
Location: Mid Hudson Valley - \H/

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #7 by powerband » Mon May 07, 2018 7:38 pm

The Mustang 3.03 will haev the shifter bosses back further than practical for early cars. Cutting out crossmember and fabbing alternate is an option The common 'C4 conversion" mount can be used with the 3.03 toploader with a little help. There is also an OEM mount for the 3.03 with original flat spring of correct length. An aftermarket bolt-on floor shifter ahead of Mustang location is an option.
Image
Image

The early firewall is most easily 'formed' (with a BFH) with engine out for better access to Bellhouse to block bolts at top (as noted). Firewall is surprisingly easily formed upward /raised and widened @ 1".

(if photobuck allows):
Image
Image . Image

Mustang and Maverick 3.03's, Mavericks were 3OTT except rare floor 3 spd.
Image

have( 3 pedal) fun
"Take time to stop and smell... The roadkill..."

User avatar
powerband
FSP Moderator
Posts: 1880
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 6:45 pm
Location: Mid Hudson Valley - \H/

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #8 by powerband » Mon May 07, 2018 7:45 pm

You can connect the 3.03 to the original column linkage. I used the Maverick 3.03 shifter ears which put my 61's shift rods in close to correct position.
Maverick shift ear is big U-shaped and I used someaftermarket shifter parts I had. It did need the formed / clearanced tunnel in other pics.

(If photobux allows -Three -On -Tree '61/3.03 / 250:)
Image

Image

have fun
"Take time to stop and smell... The roadkill..."

rmcphearson
Registered User
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:23 pm

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #9 by rmcphearson » Mon May 07, 2018 8:47 pm

Dang, I've got to get this thing back in service asap. I didn't know it was going to be this difficult. Gonna try to get it on the lift tomorrow night.

Powerband, what do you think my 3.03 shifter is worth?

Thanks for all the info!

-Roland

rmcphearson
Registered User
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:23 pm

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #10 by rmcphearson » Wed May 09, 2018 6:14 pm

I'm back on the road. Now I need to lengthen the drive shaft a couple of inches. Not much of the shaft in the tail of the trans. Gotta take it easy till I get it lengthened!

rmcphearson
Registered User
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:23 pm

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #11 by rmcphearson » Fri May 11, 2018 1:34 pm

My local driveline shop quoted $185 to attempt to lengthen the shaft and advised me they would probably fail and I would be throwing money away. They quoted $100 to attempt to shorten the old shaft (and advised it will probably fail also) which I don't want to do because I want to save it in case I ever need to put the 2.77 trans back in temporarily. They quoted $365 to make a new shaft which they guaranteed will work.

I don't want to spend $365 (I could have bought a Dagenham for that and avoided all this hassle). Any thoughts?

-Roland

Soldmy66
Registered User
Posts: 341
Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2004 11:09 pm

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #12 by Soldmy66 » Fri May 11, 2018 2:00 pm

If you have the required dimensions, I believe you can find the driveshaft you are looking for at Jeg's or Summit.

$365 seems steep.

User avatar
bubba22349
Global Moderator
Posts: 8456
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:46 pm
Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #13 by bubba22349 » Fri May 11, 2018 2:05 pm

It does sound like they don’t want to do a retube of your old shaft. I have shortened my own driveshafts for many years never had any problems so far. But that’s if you have or can find a shaft that’s longer to start with. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

rmcphearson
Registered User
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:23 pm

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #14 by rmcphearson » Fri May 11, 2018 6:11 pm

bubba22349 wrote:It does sound like they don’t want to do a retube of your old shaft. I have shortened my own driveshafts for many years never had any problems so far. But that’s if you have or can find a shaft that’s longer to start with. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:


Ok, please describe the process you use to shorten a shaft. I do have that option with the original longer shaft.

User avatar
bubba22349
Global Moderator
Posts: 8456
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:46 pm
Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #15 by bubba22349 » Fri May 11, 2018 9:54 pm

First is to start off with the driveshaft clean U Joints removed and examine it for any signs of damage, dents, Ect. Plus check for location of any existing factory balance weights on the tube, or if the tube has a any deferent sizes (stepped) in the tube ends were your cut will be and then determine how much it needs to be shortened. Next is the most important thing to get right, finding the centerline of the two U Joint Yokes. When you have found that mark that centerline on the driveshafts tube and the Yoke, I use a welders soapstone sharpened to a fine point and a good straight edge to draw the centerline. Then you can carefully machine or grind off the weld holding the U Joint Yoke to the tube on the end you have determined is the best one to remove. I. E. The tube has no balance weight near were you will be removing the amount nessisary to shorten the driveshaft to desired length.

Then the Yokes weld needs to be cut down to the top or slightly below the top of the tube then the yoke can be driven off the tube. The Yoke is carefully cleaned up of any remaining weld over the flanges end. Carefully measure the amount that needs to be removed from the driveshafts tube, I measure and mark this in at least four to eight equal places around the tube and make a straight line (90 degrees to yoke centerline) around the tube to be able to get as straight a cut as you can. Since you have access to a lathe and if you the other tooling to support the driveshaft tube in the center (Steady Rest) this would be the most accurate way to do it. However I have also done it with just a good hack saw, and cleaned it up with fine file until the end was straight and true.

Steady Rest
https://www.mscdirect.com/industrialtoo ... lathe.html

Now the Yoke is lined up with the centerline marks and pressed or pounded back on the tube I have used a soft lead hammer to do this. The Yoke will self center in the tube bottom out and even if the cut on the tube isn't exactly perfect it will go in very straight. Check that the U Joint Yokes Centerlines are alined perfectly with each other. Next tack weld the Yoke to the tube in four places check to see that the alignment is still correct. Finally weld the Yoke all the way around rolling it at an even speed to try and keep the weld the same height as was the original so the balance will be correct. A simple fixture with two roller bearing at each end would help this process. I will edit this some more later if I think of any thing additional as I have time Good luck :thumbup: :nod: Edited
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

rmcphearson
Registered User
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:23 pm

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #16 by rmcphearson » Sat May 12, 2018 6:35 am

Got it, thank you. I will keep this option open. I'm looking around for a third shaft to operate on.

Anybody happen to know if any later model shafts have the same yoke dimensions? That will be the best option because the local shop said a more modern shaft is thicker and can be shortened for cheap and guaranteed.

User avatar
B RON CO
VIP Member
Posts: 726
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2016 7:02 pm
Location: Long Island, NY
Contact:

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #17 by B RON CO » Sun May 13, 2018 11:53 am

Hi, I have done as Bubba did. We did not mark the centerline as he did. We just got, in our case, the rear yoke off, cut the shaft with a sawzall, and cleaned everything up. Two main things are, the yoke slides (with persuasion) back into the tube far enough that it will center itself behind the front yoke, and the U joints are "in phase". We placed ours so the u joints were up on blocks, and perfectly aligned so the driveshaft would not rock. Welded it up and you couldn't tell. Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

rmcphearson
Registered User
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:23 pm

Re: Tans and Clutch swap today

Post #18 by rmcphearson » Sun May 13, 2018 6:19 pm

Ok. If I don't find a third shaft to operate on soon I might try to lengthen my too-short one so I can keep the long one for the 2.77 trans. Anybody know what the I.D. of the tube is or the O.D. of the yoke stub? If I can find that out I will go ahead and make a sleeve (with the proper O.D.) to have ready before removing the short shaft for the "stretching".

-Roland

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests