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Problems with flexplate

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64 200 ranchero
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Problems with flexplate

Post #1 by 64 200 ranchero » Sat Feb 09, 2019 10:32 pm

I have been having nonstop problems with my flexplate getting loose since I started using nitrous. I have tried using red locktite on the mating surface between the flexplate and converter as well as the converter studs and nuts. It still comes loose and starts knocking. What have you all done to fix this problem? I'm starting to think jb weld.
60 ford ranchero daily driver. 200 tri power, modified c4 trans, ds2 distributor, msd programable 6al2, weber ict's, 8" rear end with full spool, 3.40 gears, 245 tires, CI dual out header, Dynomax muffler, 114hp shot wet nitrous kit. JE Forged pistons, 280 110lc cam, around 11-1 compression.

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bubba22349
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Re: Problems with flexplate

Post #2 by bubba22349 » Sat Feb 09, 2019 11:38 pm

How about safety wire like is used on aircraft parts? :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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B RON CO
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Re: Problems with flexplate

Post #3 by B RON CO » Mon Feb 11, 2019 2:47 pm

Hi, if the bolt holes are damaged and oblong it will never hold. Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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64 200 ranchero
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Posts: 987
Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:08 am
Location: Long Beach California

Re: Problems with flexplate

Post #4 by 64 200 ranchero » Mon Feb 11, 2019 2:59 pm

It doesn't seem like the nuts are loosening up but rather that the plate is slipping and becoming thinner at the holes. Safety wire would work if the tolerance of the holes were tighter. It looks like the holes are oblong. I'm thinking of having a custom plate built if possible, I have had this problem many times. Maybe I can put some sort of inserts on the new plate to tighten it up to not allow any movement.
60 ford ranchero daily driver. 200 tri power, modified c4 trans, ds2 distributor, msd programable 6al2, weber ict's, 8" rear end with full spool, 3.40 gears, 245 tires, CI dual out header, Dynomax muffler, 114hp shot wet nitrous kit. JE Forged pistons, 280 110lc cam, around 11-1 compression.

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bubba22349
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Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: Problems with flexplate

Post #5 by bubba22349 » Mon Feb 11, 2019 8:19 pm

Yes for sure, if the flex plate holes are oblong you could make some oversized bushings to weld in giving it much more support and tighten up those holes. The bushings would also give a larger washer type surface area for the torque converter nuts to lock against. Good luck. :thumbup: :nod: Edited
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

DannyG
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Re: Problems with flexplate

Post #6 by DannyG » Thu Feb 14, 2019 1:53 pm

What about hardening the mounting hole areas on a new flexplate ? Heat each area till red, then quench ?
DannyG
C8 block, .040 over, zero decked. Forged Racetec pistons , D7 large log head .9:4 compression, CSC 264-112 cam going in a '65 Mustang one day...

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B RON CO
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Re: Problems with flexplate

Post #7 by B RON CO » Fri Feb 15, 2019 7:59 pm

Hi, also wondering if you always use the original Ford converter nuts
Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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64 200 ranchero
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Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:08 am
Location: Long Beach California

Re: Problems with flexplate

Post #8 by 64 200 ranchero » Fri Feb 15, 2019 8:07 pm

I'm thinking that I Will buy a new plate and will open the holes up and press on some hardened inserts. I have been using new converter nuts, same style. I ended up jb welding my current plate just to make it work for now. I can just heat it with a torch to remove it later.
60 ford ranchero daily driver. 200 tri power, modified c4 trans, ds2 distributor, msd programable 6al2, weber ict's, 8" rear end with full spool, 3.40 gears, 245 tires, CI dual out header, Dynomax muffler, 114hp shot wet nitrous kit. JE Forged pistons, 280 110lc cam, around 11-1 compression.

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