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Clutch Problems Pt 2

Moderator: Mod Squad

User avatar
StarDiero75
Registered User
Posts: 853
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 9:39 pm
Location: Bremerton, WA

Clutch Problems Pt 2

Post #1 by StarDiero75 » Wed May 29, 2019 3:42 am

Howdy guys,

It's been a year since my clutch problems and they're back at it again.

What's happened since last year:
•Car has always kinda vibrated soft/moderate wherever going into gear from a stop. Ocassional perfect transition
•Put 8500ish miles on the car
•TO bearing always made some whirring noise then started squealing really really bad a few months ago. An italian tune up fixed it somewhat. It left a weird ghghgh (metal rubbing) noise whenever pressed and gets louder as the revs increase.
•I have a 2.8 rear with this L6 so this will increase wear, especially on hills.

What's happening now:
•Car vibrates/chatters/shudders going into gear badly. Can be fixed by revving unnecessarily high and letting the pedal out fast
•Pedal feels real gritty now when disengaging at idle or while driving
•Above 2 problems started about less than a week ago.
•TO bearing still makes weird ghghgh noise.

My thoughts:
•The clutch kit was trash to start.
•They never resurfaced the flywheel after me driving the car with only the 2 side bolts holding the bell housing in place, so this clutch was doomed from the start having been worn weird from that and the flywheel having hot spots. (Backstory for those who dont know, i drove a 65 8.5" pattern engine with a 9" clutch and used a block plate as an adapter plate so only the 2 side bolts were the same)
•Bad TO bearing not allowing the clutch to engage smoothly also being crappy from the start.
•This setup was doomed to fail from the beginning without the resurface and the reusing of the clutch that was driven on the 2 bolt bell.

What are the symptoms of a failing clutch besides slipping? It does not seem to slip. Or if it does, its minor. Just really really rough engagement.

You all's thoughts? From whats happening now, would you all say it sounds like its about to go?

I'm hoping to make it last basically for another month before i put the T5 in and all my nice parts, but i don't think its gonna wait to be on my time.

Thanks guys,
Ryan
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

User avatar
StarDiero75
Registered User
Posts: 853
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 9:39 pm
Location: Bremerton, WA

Re: Clutch Problems Pt 2

Post #2 by StarDiero75 » Wed May 29, 2019 3:49 pm

Update: pedal is getting softer, still gritty and car chattering
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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bubba22349
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Posts: 9088
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:46 pm
Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: Clutch Problems Pt 2

Post #3 by bubba22349 » Wed May 29, 2019 7:19 pm

StarDiero75 wrote:Howdy guys,

It's been a year since my clutch problems and they're back at it again.

What's happened since last year:
•Car has always kinda vibrated soft/moderate wherever going into gear from a stop. Ocassional perfect transition
•Put 8500ish miles on the car
•TO bearing always made some whirring noise then started squealing really really bad a few months ago. An italian tune up fixed it somewhat. It left a weird ghghgh (metal rubbing) noise whenever pressed and gets louder as the revs increase.
•I have a 2.8 rear with this L6 so this will increase wear, especially on hills.

What's happening now:
•Car vibrates/chatters/shudders going into gear badly. Can be fixed by revving unnecessarily high and letting the pedal out fast
•Pedal feels real gritty now when disengaging at idle or while driving
•Above 2 problems started about less than a week ago.
•TO bearing still makes weird ghghgh noise.

My thoughts:
•The clutch kit was trash to start.
•They never resurfaced the flywheel after me driving the car with only the 2 side bolts holding the bell housing in place, so this clutch was doomed from the start having been worn weird from that and the flywheel having hot spots. (Backstory for those who dont know, i drove a 65 8.5" pattern engine with a 9" clutch and used a block plate as an adapter plate so only the 2 side bolts were the same)
•Bad TO bearing not allowing the clutch to engage smoothly also being crappy from the start.
•This setup was doomed to fail from the beginning without the resurface and the reusing of the clutch that was driven on the 2 bolt bell.

What are the symptoms of a failing clutch besides slipping? It does not seem to slip. Or if it does, its minor. Just really really rough engagement.

You all's thoughts? From whats happening now, would you all say it sounds like its about to go?

I'm hoping to make it last basically for another month before i put the T5 in and all my nice parts, but i don't think its gonna wait to be on my time.

Thanks guys,
Ryan


Vibration and chatter are mostly caused by two items flywheel surface, or a pressure plate that is also has a bad surface or is setting uneven compared to the mounting points this can be from being overheated damaging the spring heights or pressure. And your case with the mismatched of parts by year (i.e. those bell housing parts) the bell housing not being secured to the block correctly allowing all the parts from the back of the engine to the back of the transmission to be moving around to cause damage. It is very likely that the transmissions front input bearing is damaged from this too. The throw out bearing can be damaged in severial ways two common ones are inadequate clearance between the pressure plate fingers or riding the clutch pedal. Yes slipping is the most common sign of a clutch that is failing but a soft pedal, and the before mentioned chattering will become more excessive too. Give the throw out bearing another tune up and really baby that clutch so it can make it the month. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

User avatar
StarDiero75
Registered User
Posts: 853
Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 9:39 pm
Location: Bremerton, WA

Re: Clutch Problems Pt 2

Post #4 by StarDiero75 » Wed May 29, 2019 9:54 pm

bubba22349 wrote:
StarDiero75 wrote:Howdy guys,

It's been a year since my clutch problems and they're back at it again.

What's happened since last year:
•Car has always kinda vibrated soft/moderate wherever going into gear from a stop. Ocassional perfect transition
•Put 8500ish miles on the car
•TO bearing always made some whirring noise then started squealing really really bad a few months ago. An italian tune up fixed it somewhat. It left a weird ghghgh (metal rubbing) noise whenever pressed and gets louder as the revs increase.
•I have a 2.8 rear with this L6 so this will increase wear, especially on hills.

What's happening now:
•Car vibrates/chatters/shudders going into gear badly. Can be fixed by revving unnecessarily high and letting the pedal out fast
•Pedal feels real gritty now when disengaging at idle or while driving
•Above 2 problems started about less than a week ago.
•TO bearing still makes weird ghghgh noise.

My thoughts:
•The clutch kit was trash to start.
•They never resurfaced the flywheel after me driving the car with only the 2 side bolts holding the bell housing in place, so this clutch was doomed from the start having been worn weird from that and the flywheel having hot spots. (Backstory for those who dont know, i drove a 65 8.5" pattern engine with a 9" clutch and used a block plate as an adapter plate so only the 2 side bolts were the same)
•Bad TO bearing not allowing the clutch to engage smoothly also being crappy from the start.
•This setup was doomed to fail from the beginning without the resurface and the reusing of the clutch that was driven on the 2 bolt bell.

What are the symptoms of a failing clutch besides slipping? It does not seem to slip. Or if it does, its minor. Just really really rough engagement.

You all's thoughts? From whats happening now, would you all say it sounds like its about to go?

I'm hoping to make it last basically for another month before i put the T5 in and all my nice parts, but i don't think its gonna wait to be on my time.

Thanks guys,
Ryan


Vibration and chatter are mostly caused by two items flywheel surface, or a pressure plate that is also has a bad surface or is setting uneven compared to the mounting points this can be from being overheated damaging the spring heights or pressure. And your case with the mismatched of parts by year (i.e. those bell housing parts) the bell housing not being secured to the block correctly allowing all the parts from the back of the engine to the back of the transmission to be moving around to cause damage. It is very likely that the transmissions front input bearing is damaged from this too. The throw out bearing can be damaged in severial ways two common ones are inadequate clearance between the pressure plate fingers or riding the clutch pedal. Yes slipping is the most common sign of a clutch that is failing but a soft pedal, and the before mentioned chattering will become more excessive too. Give the throw out bearing another tune up and really baby that clutch so it can make it the month. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

I got another TO bearing sitting in my drawer. I'll look at throwing that one in tomorrow since i know for a fact this one is trashed. I'll just have to pray for the clutch not to fail. Thanks man
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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