Click Here -> Please Consider Making a PayPal Contribution to the FordSix Forum!
2019 Contributors:
NJwpod, 1strodeo, mightynorseman, maxtrux, 6d7coupe, broncr, Phase3, 68Flareside240, bmbm40,
mustang6, WorldChampGramp, justintendo, BigBlue94, ags290, motorsickle1130, Rooster, ousooner919, ethanperry
rzcrisis, DoctorC, jamyers, Motorboy, fastpat, Silverback280, chad


<<< New Site Update >>>

wheel bearing stuck in housing

Moderator: Mod Squad

The Plankster Prankster
Registered User
Posts: 1845
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:45 pm
Location: about an hour from Seattle.

wheel bearing stuck in housing

Post #1 by The Plankster Prankster » Tue Dec 09, 2008 10:05 pm

well my 83 LTD (V6) had a wheel bearing start squealing. the axle shafts came out easy, unlike the guy in the other thread. my rearend is the one where the bearings are a tight fit into the axle housing, not onto the shaft.
i rigged up the jaws of a puller to work with a crude slide hammer (weight tied to a chain) and beat on it for about an hour with no success. my "hammer" was a piece of solid steel measuring 1 1/2 x 3 x 12" and i was giving it about a 2 foot stroke. i also gave it a few hits using a block measuring about 5 x 6 x 10, and gave up with that after a half dozen hits when i staggered into the car body like a drunk. went back to the first hammer after that.
somewhere in there i cut out teh seal with a chisel, knowing that it wouldn't make much difference but it couldn't hurt.
so far the bearing hasn't moved a bit.
a friend just brought me a proper slide hammer, about a 3 pounder by the looks of it, which i haven't tried yet.
any thoughts?
i'm hesitant to use the big blue wrench :lol: but i'm halfway thinking about taking the dremel in there to cut the bastard out. (yes, it's an awkward angle i know)
and i haven't tried the other side yet.
any thoughts?
83 F250 flatbed 300-6, NP435, 4X4, 5800lbs empty weight
87 E-350 6.9 diesel, c6, 3.55s, powertrax no-slip locker, onboard 120v power and compressed air, built out with toolboxes and toys

JOHN G
Registered User
Posts: 464
Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 9:10 am
Location: CLEVELAND, OH

Post #2 by JOHN G » Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:07 am

Can you nick it with a sawzall? If so, you can cut through it or nick and break the outer race with a chisel. It's probably corroded in there which makes it a tighter fit. Clean out the inside of the tube before you put in the new one-you can also put the new bearing in the freezer a few hours prior to installing it.
66 COMET 2 DR,200 W/3 WEBERS,OFFY INTAKE,264 CAM,DUAL OUTLET HEADER,3.00 DIFF

cobraguy
Registered User
Posts: 381
Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:16 pm
Location: San Diego CA USA

Post #3 by cobraguy » Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:09 pm

The proper slide hammer will probably work for you. The bearing is not that tight a press fit because there are no thrust loads on it. You may have gotten it cocked and jammed in the tube. so make sure it's squared in the tube first, then put the slide hammer to it.
62 Falcon 2 dr sedan 250/C4 8" "Magoo"
63 Ranchero 200/SROD DS II, Weber "Barney" SOLD

CNC-Dude
Registered User
Posts: 1469
Joined: Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:06 pm
Location: N. Ga.
Contact:

Post #4 by CNC-Dude » Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:15 pm

I had a similar problem with a front wheel bearing on an 68 LTD. I had a 10 lb. short sledgehammer and could really get a good swing on it with a big size drift pin, and it would't budge. This should work for you as well. Pack some rags into the axle tube, and using a mig or stick welder, run a bead around the entire exposed surface where the bearing itself rides. The combo effect of heat and the drawing(shrinking)characteristics of welding will cause the race to shrink by some degree and be ready to fall out. Good Luck!

ps. Soak the rag in water first, the residual rear end lube can ignite.

User avatar
XFlow_Fairlane
VIP Member
Posts: 2560
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 9:44 pm
Location: Dayton, TN
Contact:

Post #5 by XFlow_Fairlane » Wed Dec 10, 2008 6:10 pm

proper slide hammer with a "T Bolt" style tool ont he end of it. should pop it right out (I just did my 7.5" GM axle two weeks ago) on the install pop the new bearings in the freezer and have a cold one. they tapped right in with hardly any effort.
Rule: Torque = Fun , Turbo's make Torque

The Plankster Prankster
Registered User
Posts: 1845
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:45 pm
Location: about an hour from Seattle.

Post #6 by The Plankster Prankster » Thu Dec 11, 2008 11:22 pm

yep, the proper slide hammer worked like a charm. 6 or 8 hits each and they were out.

but now a new complication... put it all back together with new bearings and all, took her out for a test drive and after about 3 miles my squeal was back. not a steady squeal, it was on and off a couple times a second, a constant E-E-E kinda sound. continued till i got down to about 15mph. i opened my door and stuck my head out at about 45 to get a better listen, and it seems to be coming from the left rear corner.

i'm wondering if this could be brake noise, or possibly the tailpipe rubbing - i did bump the muffler on a rock the day before the noise started.
another thing that was of concern to me (but i suspect isnt a current problem) is that the driveshaft has two shiny rings worn into it, not terribly deep, with corresponding wear spots on the underbody directly above these spots. a few months back i put air shocks under it, which raised my ride probably about 4 inches, so i suspect that isn't a current problem, but who knows.
any thoughts
83 F250 flatbed 300-6, NP435, 4X4, 5800lbs empty weight
87 E-350 6.9 diesel, c6, 3.55s, powertrax no-slip locker, onboard 120v power and compressed air, built out with toolboxes and toys

cobraguy
Registered User
Posts: 381
Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:16 pm
Location: San Diego CA USA

Post #7 by cobraguy » Sat Dec 13, 2008 12:43 pm

Put it up on jackstands and run it with a helper. Carefully crawl under and pin point the noise. Check your U-joints they will squeek when they get dry and fail. Rich.
62 Falcon 2 dr sedan 250/C4 8" "Magoo"
63 Ranchero 200/SROD DS II, Weber "Barney" SOLD

JOHN G
Registered User
Posts: 464
Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 9:10 am
Location: CLEVELAND, OH

Post #8 by JOHN G » Sat Dec 13, 2008 6:44 pm

When my rear u-joint went a while back,it only made noise leaving from a stop or when changing gears. they can make some pretty weird sounds. I also had a tailshaft seal that sang like a canary.
66 COMET 2 DR,200 W/3 WEBERS,OFFY INTAKE,264 CAM,DUAL OUTLET HEADER,3.00 DIFF

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests