Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

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CoupeBoy
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Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #1 by CoupeBoy » Wed Feb 03, 2016 5:12 pm

I'd like to start beating some panels on the Falcon, but I have zero actual bodywork tools.
Some examples of what I need to straighten.

Driver Side front fender has the biggest dent
Image

With exception of the leading edge of the door, the remainder of the driver side looks pretty darn good.

Image

The next major area of concern is the passenger tail light/quarter panel area.
Image
There is a pretty big indentation at the rear of this quarter panel.
Image
Again with the leading edge of the door
Image
And a lot less damage on the passenger fender by the headlight.
Image

I got really lucky that there aren't a lot of exterior rust issues, mostly just lots of dents.
Eventually I will have to deal with the two rusty areas, which are "luckily" under the back seat, and in the trunk drop offs. In these areas if it isn't perfect, the only ones who will know are me, and y'all as I post pictures of the progress.

But for now what should be considered the basics?

Hammer and Dolly?
Uni-spot welder?
Shot bag and mallets?
Body spoons?

I'm also taking all suggestions on how to work any or all of these dents out, starting point, angles of attack, anything.

Thanks,
-ron
1968 Mustang Daily Driver Rebuild (on hold for the Season 3/1/2015)
1963.5 Falcon Convertible Build (just getting started 3/15/2015)
Case 1830 Skidsteer FordSix Repower Thread (started 4/4/2015)
1970 170/C4
1967 200/C4
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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #2 by bubba22349 » Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:38 pm

:hmmm: For the basics you need a good assortment of Dolleys, Hammers, and Spoons, they will handle most of the lighter damage like the door leading or trailing edges, most of the passenger rear quarter and passenger side front fender. A Uni Spot welder would work great on the lower area of the rear quarter panel. The biggest problem I can see is the driver side front fender where it looks to have slide into a post. When your doing repairs you need to try and work in reverse the way the damaged occurred. So you would need a way to pull that damaged area out or push it from behind a Porta Power set would work great (some of the other repairs could be done faster with a Porta Power too) along with a way to tie the cars chassis down. I have also used cable or chain come alongs with a welded on pulling bracket, a good solid post to be able to pull from and another one to tie the cars frame solid too. Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #3 by CoupeBoy » Thu Feb 04, 2016 1:00 pm

bubba22349 wrote:a good solid post to be able to pull from and another one to tie the cars frame solid too. Good luck :nod:
Luckily in ND, we plant our trees in rows. I can easily find a tree or two to tie it down to (chains to the unibody) and another to use as a pull anchor. I know it will be a learning curve, but I don't want to cause more damage than I'm fixing.

I'll keep watching local tool sales for deals on some starter kits on body hammers, dollies, and spoons.
My neighbor has a port-a-power, we used it back in 2008 to straighten/repair my '68 Mustang.
Image

A long time ago, my Dad molested a fender on a '75 Grand Torino Elite. He tried to pull out a large depression/dent by drilling holes into the fender (1/2") and then it started with a slide hammer to start pulling, but when that failed... he used a come along with a bolt/washer on the inside.

Its the blue one in this picture.
Image

I've seen a lot of the wrong way to repair this type of damage, I really don't want to replicate the damage that others have done.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #4 by ludwig » Thu Feb 04, 2016 2:36 pm

I went the Egyptian route with my dent repair on the front of my truck box. I put a bunch of eye bolts backed with washers across the dent, threaded a 5/8" hemp rope through them individually and wrapped the rope around a 4x4 one after another. Then I stuck ball bat between the ropes and started twisting until the panel got back out to level.

I do a variant of that technique on the wheelbarrow tire. It deflates when I don't use it (like every 6 months). I wrap a rope around the the tubeless tire and twist until it is seated and then inflate to spac. I wasn't interested in buying the inflatable rope thing the tire store uses.
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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #5 by CoupeBoy » Thu Feb 04, 2016 2:55 pm

When I rolled the fender lips on the '68 Mustang last summer, I used a 4.5" fence post wrapped with black tape.
I jacked the car up until it fit into the tightest spot and then rolled the post back and forth, lowered the car, rolled it some more.
After several lowering and rollings, eventually I had the lip fully rolled under so the tires didn't catch on it.

Eric, I'm a little let down that you don't use the 'ether and match' method of seating the wheel barrow tire..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-3U-TRkJx8

The craziest use I've seen of a rope for pulling was a car that was stuck in the mud.
They used a rim (no tire) and wrapped a rope around it, then put the car in gear and let the spinning rim pull the car out.

crazy rednecks..
-ron

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #6 by bubba22349 » Thu Feb 04, 2016 3:01 pm

Eastwood has a nice set of body tools for a reasonable price, Harbor Freight has some that are much lower priced I have a few of them and work good and somtimes you can find them at yard sales or pawn shops too.

http://www.eastwood.com/7-pc-body-and-f ... aQodp7cKMg

Most of my body tools are very old and better quality Proto brand that I have collected since the early 1960's. the Dolly in the top left side (above link) is kind of like mine it's my favorite shape because it's so easy to hold and the one I use most often. The top and bottom hammer is also like my two favorites that I use the most, I do have all those hammers shown and severial more besides they all come in handy when doing different repairs. I have a couple of homemade spoons that my Dad made out some old files they also work great. But if you can find any of those top three Dolly's and a couple hammers (top and bottom ones) it would probably work well for most of your damaged areas. You right about doing repairs improperly once the Metel gets stretched badly it's really hard to get back into the right shape again then you need a set of torches and need to learn how to shrink the metel back again. The good thing about the these older cars is that the metel is still reasonably thick gauge to work with. As a beginner at body work I think you won't have to much trouble with any of the areas except for the drivers side fender so work on all the others areas first as you develope your skills then tackle that fender. To work those front edges of the doors you will need to pull the front fenders or the doors to get your dolly in there to back up the hammering at that point it's about the easiest of your repairs. Good luck :nod: Edited
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #7 by ludwig » Thu Feb 04, 2016 3:28 pm

Hey Ron, I've never lost an eyebrow to a rope -- yet. Sounds like Minnesoooodans dere.

That Eastwood set looks like the hot tip. Hot Rod or Rod n' Custom had a bodywork article a few years back with a list of tools for the home body worker. Pretty much what Eastwood has there. They might have listed a heating torch, MIG/TIG welder and a couple of C-Visegrips too.
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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #8 by bubba22349 » Thu Feb 04, 2016 4:15 pm

ludwig wrote:I went the Egyptian route with my dent repair on the front of my truck box. I put a bunch of eye bolts backed with washers across the dent, threaded a 5/8" hemp rope through them individually and wrapped the rope around a 4x4 one after another. Then I stuck ball bat between the ropes and started twisting until the panel got back out to level.


:rolflmao: Lol Ludwig never heard of the Egyptian route though it sounds like it could work. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #9 by CoupeBoy » Thu Feb 04, 2016 4:19 pm

You know Eric.. he invented probably taught the Egyptians how to do it.
He probably tried lost sand method, but that only works for installing fenders, not removing dents. :rolflmao:

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #10 by ludwig » Thu Feb 04, 2016 4:34 pm

:rolflmao:

Anymore, I'm stuck with the 'lost marbles' methods. If I can find them.
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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #11 by bubba22349 » Thu Feb 04, 2016 5:04 pm

:rolflmao: I know some people think that I use that lost marbles method :shock: yet I keep finding a marble or two every so often! :nod: Right now need to find lots of those old marbles as I get ready to upgrade my software on my old business computer :bang: from the now defunk XP Pro to Windows 7 Pro (64 bit), :shock: hope can find all the drivers still, wish me luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #12 by CoupeBoy » Thu Feb 04, 2016 5:20 pm

bubba22349 wrote:from the now defunk XP Pro to Windows 7 Pro (64 bit)
That isn't a clean upgrade path. FWIW, win7 mainstream support ended last year, extended support ends in 2020. I've been upgrading all the work computers to Win10Pro lately, 5 so far in the last 2 weeks. If you can go to 7, you may just want to use that license key to jump all the way to 10 to save an upgrade later. The biggest problem is that there is no direct upgrade path from xp to 10.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #13 by ludwig » Thu Feb 04, 2016 6:08 pm

Listen to your CoupeBoy. He has the 411.2. Oh yeah.

He helped me out big time a couple years ago.
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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #14 by bubba22349 » Thu Feb 04, 2016 6:09 pm

The OEM copy of Win7 I bought is suppose to also have a free upgrade to Windows 10. My Hardware is perrty old though with XP the Windows upgrade advisor said it should work with Win 7. I would really like to build a new machine or at least swap in a newer Motherboard, CPU, and Memory, just can't afford it anytime soon. So got the Win7 copy and a fresh 1 Ter. Drive to see if could make this old machine work again.
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #15 by CoupeBoy » Fri Feb 05, 2016 2:32 pm

Here is another angle on that big front fender dent.
Image
I agree that it looks like they backed up and swung it into something... I did that once in a '66 Malibu, the steel concrete filled post was shorter than the top of the fender and I forgot it was there.

In regards to the Win7 vs Win10 hardware requirements
windows-10-specifications -- Microsoft.com
They are pretty minimal
Processor:
1 gigahertz (GHz) or faster processor or SoC
RAM:
1 gigabyte (GB) for 32-bit or 2 GB for 64-bit
Hard disk space:
16 GB for 32-bit OS 20 GB for 64-bit OS
Graphics card:
DirectX 9 or later with WDDM 1.0 driver
Display:
800x600

If you are going to spend money on hardware, I've seen best results with first installing a separate graphics card to offload display workload. Follow that up with an SSD, which aclts like a slightly slower extension of the RAM. And finally more RAM, I've been ordering work related systems with 8GB.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #16 by bubba22349 » Fri Feb 05, 2016 4:11 pm

CoupeBoy wrote:Here is another angle on that big front fender dent.
Image
I agree that it looks like they backed up and swung it into something... I did that once in a '66 Malibu, the steel concrete filled post was shorter than the top of the fender and I forgot it was there.

In regards to the Win7 vs Win10 hardware requirements
windows-10-specifications -- Microsoft.com
They are pretty minimal
Processor:
1 gigahertz (GHz) or faster processor or SoC
RAM:
1 gigabyte (GB) for 32-bit or 2 GB for 64-bit
Hard disk space:
16 GB for 32-bit OS 20 GB for 64-bit OS
Graphics card:
DirectX 9 or later with WDDM 1.0 driver
Display:
800x600

If you are going to spend money on hardware, I've seen best results with first installing a separate graphics card to offload display workload. Follow that up with an SSD, which aclts like a slightly slower extension of the RAM. And finally more RAM, I've been ordering work related systems with 8GB.


Can't spend any more on the hardware for right now. My motherboard is maxed out on its RAM at 4 GB though in the XP Pro 32 bit mode it would only show 3 GB, the CPU is a 2.6 GHZ Duel Core, also have 2 existing 320 GB SATA hard drives the Motherboard only has two SATA ports, the Graphics card is a few years newer ATI Radeon HD5450 Suppose to support Direct X11 I originally had a much better card but it fry'ed a few years back. I run two Displays. So looks like the Win10 would work too. I bought another 1 Terabite Hard drive but for some reason it won't recognize it in XP and the Win7 software disk doesn't read in my DVD DRW drive so now I am stuck since last night
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #17 by bubba22349 » Tue Feb 09, 2016 4:32 pm

CoupeBoy, In studying all the pictures of your front fender damage I would start the hammering / straightening process from the bottom area were there is the least amount of damage. This would start to relieve the pressure on the upper area of the fender as you work it from the bottom. I think though that the top parts is stretched quite a bit so you will likely need to use the heat & cool method to shrink that metel back to its original shape. Good luck :nod:

Windows7 Pro Update on the XP Pro machine

Well it has been a real battle of man vs machine and had numerous problems starting off with my DVDRW wouldn't read any DVD's only CD's tried severial work a rounds and reconfigured some my hardware but finally had to just give in and get a newer external DVD that finally worked. Also one of my power supply SATA plugs had been damaged I guess long ago so that it doesn't fit snugly enough to power the second SATA hard drive so will need find a replacement plug to use to repair it. So success in that the Windows7 Pro 64 Bit is now running on the fresh SATA hard drive since Sunday night. Still have a few hardware conflicts like with the onboard sound (old RealTek AC97) and Secondary IDE, (Asus has no newer divers and limited hardware support of Windows 7) guess will be hunting for a compatible sound card or if I can find a Sound Blaster an X-FI Fatal1TY card, I still have most of the rest of the other parts to complete it. I have 3 open PCI slots & a PCIE, thinking of maybe adding another Sata card to convert it all over to the SATA type drives instead of using Secondary IDE. Also like to use a couple of slide in type SATA hard drive trays or two could set it up for hot swap of the drive for a Lynix OS. Been loading all the updates and hope to transfer some of my programs from the old XP hard drive. I might also take advantage the Windows 10 upgrade that available now too. Thank you, :thumbup:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #18 by CoupeBoy » Tue Feb 09, 2016 5:34 pm

Thanks for the dent tips. When time comes I'll have to give that technique a try.

I'm a little swamped right now with the '75 F250 performing a gas tank upgrade from 19gallons to 38 gallons and I should be into the leaf spring swap starting tomorrow.

Rear Fuel Tank Upgrade 19g to 38g -- OldFordCrewCabs.com Forum
The crew cab forum allows bigger pictures which I feel gives a nicer article.
I wish the FordSix Forum allowed larger images so I could copy/paste from one site to another easily.

In regards to your upgrade, you are coming in at a bad time, Win7pro will no longer be available as OEM software as of September.
And in regards to the drivers its sort of like you are trying to convert a 33rpm to an 8track right as CD's are starting to become available.
The equipment is still available, but its going to cost you one way or another to make it happen.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #19 by bubba22349 » Tue Feb 09, 2016 5:50 pm

:beer: you got a lot on you plate with all those cars and trucks! :bang: yeah I hear you most of those changes will happen only if I can find some good used hardware cheap then I will do a few more changes. Otherwise I am hoping to go with a much newer MB, CPU, and Memory in about a year or so. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #20 by CoupeBoy » Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:03 pm

bubba22349 wrote::beer: you got a lot on you plate with all those cars and trucks!
Prior to last 2015, the last project I had was in 2000. 15 years later and all the sudden its like it is raining projects at my house. If I had a decent heater and more space in my shop, I could work all year long, and even if I did... I'd have projects for a lifetime. But I'm still shopping for a Bronco; and I'm still scheming how to get the '64 Fairlane from Dad...

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #21 by bubba22349 » Wed Feb 10, 2016 2:50 pm

:beer: I like those Broncos and the 1963 - 64 Fairlanes too! :hmmm: Do you have any more space left to build a big pole barn to store all those projects in? A Heater shouldn't be much of a problem depending on the size of your work shop area and the types of fuel sources you have there in ND. I like those propane catalytic radiant panel type heaters they burn pretty clean and just heat the area you are in, or if you have a wood sorce the stacked double 55 gal barel Kit type really warm up an area quick, another faveriote is a diesel heater (we had some in the Army) if you can find one of those 5 gals of fuel last a long time. :nod:

I used to have severial projects ahead at all times building 2 to 4 per year in my youth. I lost my large collection parts and some of my equipment that had been in storage last year due to some shady business practices. Still was able to save a few project cars and trucks if I can ever get them here it's almost like starting over from scratch. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #22 by CoupeBoy » Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:30 pm

Found a guy on craigslist selling an Offenhauser Intake. We are meeting on Friday when he comes to Fargo.
Image
He's got a Hooker header too that I"m going to look at when he is here also.
If I had an 4wd SBF Auto, I'd need to start planning the swap into the Crew Cab...

I'm trying to decide if this is worth his asking price.
No frame, no motor, no axles, no doors,, no windshield frame (that is tube steel), no tailgate, no top, no title. Asking $275
Image
Image

As for space, I cannot store more in the barn, that is to be reserved for the riding arena and a place for the horses, rabbits, goats, and dog to escape the sub zero temps.

Late last fall (Septemberish) my wife told me to build a pole structure, she said roof only.
The idea would be a place to park my 'extra' cars/trucks/airstream/trailers under a dry roof away from hail and excessive rain.
My initial plans called for a 36x45ftx12ft.
Not sure if I'm going for a single slanted roof, or rafters with a peak.
I'm also not sold on roof only, seems like it might not be the best for storage, in ND we can get a lot of wind, which without walls means a LOT of uplift.
And with the orientation we were thinking about for the building, the long open side would be facing East, so even if I boxed it on 3 sides it would act a bit like a parachute for winter winds.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #23 by CoupeBoy » Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:30 pm

Found a guy on craigslist selling an Offenhauser Intake. We are meeting on Friday when he comes to Fargo.
Image
He's got a Hooker header too that I"m going to look at when he is here also.
If I had an 4wd SBF Auto, I'd need to start planning the swap into the Crew Cab...

I'm trying to decide if this is worth his asking price.
No frame, no motor, no axles, no doors,, no windshield frame (that is tube steel), no tailgate, no top, no title. Asking $275
Image
Image

As for space, I cannot store more in the barn, that is to be reserved for the riding arena and a place for the horses, rabbits, goats, and dog to escape the sub zero temps.

Late last fall (Septemberish) my wife told me to build a pole structure, she said roof only.
The idea would be a place to park my 'extra' cars/trucks/airstream/trailers under a dry roof away from hail and excessive rain.
My initial plans called for a 36x45ftx12ft.
Not sure if I'm going for a single slanted roof, or rafters with a peak.
I'm also not sold on roof only, seems like it might not be the best for storage, in ND we can get a lot of wind, which without walls means a LOT of uplift.
And with the orientation we were thinking about for the building, the long open side would be facing East, so even if I boxed it on 3 sides it would act a bit like a parachute for winter winds.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #24 by bubba22349 » Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:44 pm

I think I would go for that Bronco they are really hard to get so cheap now, didn't you also find another one that was just mostly the chassis? Then you could combine the two. Dose it happen to have a title? You could easily build a nice tube chassis for it too. I know you have a wind problem there in ND seen it in person one time I was at my uncles farm when a tornado hit too. If you built 3 sides why not just add some sliding doors on the other?
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #25 by CoupeBoy » Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:56 pm

I talked to a guy in West Fargo, he has a complete rolling chassis (i6 engine/3spd manual/transfer case/axles, driveline, on a frame) that he wants to sell.
I don't know if he has a title or not.
And I never asked him his asking price.
There is a set of aluminum slotted rims for an F150/bronco for sale locally..
Image

Adding sides to a building vastly increases its initial purchase/setup costs.
Although if setup like a bus barn with doors that slide in front/behind one another it could be feasible.
Maybe design them like those temporary room separator walls where they slide on a common rail but store in a corner or pocket. :D

When I win the lottery, I'm not running away to join a circus, I'm running away to join a junkyard :rolflmao:

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CoupeBoy
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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #26 by CoupeBoy » Wed Feb 10, 2016 4:15 pm

FWIW, this is one of the heater setups I have in the shop right now.
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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #27 by bubba22349 » Wed Feb 10, 2016 4:40 pm

:rolflmao: yeah junkyards I love them people said I should of had one with all my collection. Another uncle and my cousin ran the old Tiny's junk yard for many years in West Fargo I spent a number of summers hanging and helping out there traveling around picking up lots of old cars and trucks. There was another really old junkyard that I used to go to around Tower City too. That heater looks like it's a little small for your work shop. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #28 by CoupeBoy » Fri Feb 12, 2016 5:16 pm

HF has a hammer and dolly set on sale $24.99 (emailed coupon)
Body And Fender Set 7 Pc

That should get me started.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #29 by ludwig » Fri Feb 12, 2016 5:40 pm

A fellow I worked for in MPLS served in the National Guard as a mechanic. When they bivouacked at Camp Ripley in the winter, he would take the propane field stoves from the mess tent and set them on low under the trucks in his unit. They would be the only ones that started up on the first crank most days. He said it was only a problem when the cooks wanted them back for hot breakfasts.

One year he brought a bunch of little personal hibachis. Then the other guys would jack his hibachis for the mess trucks.
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Livin' the dream. Dad n' daughter.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #30 by bubba22349 » Fri Feb 12, 2016 7:58 pm

CoupeBoy wrote:HF has a hammer and dolly set on sale $24.99 (emailed coupon)
Body And Fender Set 7 Pc

That should get me started.


:nod: Yeah that set will do the job, have some of those HF pieces that my Dad bought they work ok! :thumbup:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #31 by OpelGT+3point3 » Thu Apr 28, 2016 1:31 pm

The way I would approach a car like that is to save the driver front fender for last and work the rest of the body while i searched for a different fender. The biggest mistake beginners make is to try to completely straighten a dent; taking out every single tiny imperfection. They end up with a perfectly smooth section; but it's bulged because the metal was stretched in the beginning. Hammering metal with a dolly behind it will stretch the metal more as soon as the dent is gone. You have to leave the tiny dents and fill them; they are compensating for the stretch. Large areas that are pushed back and buckled could be sliced perpendicular to the buckle and worked in separate areas then welded back together. Straight cars generally have large areas of thin bondo all over them. Mig welding uses an extreme level of heat; a torch is better. Beginner painters should use non-metallic single stage paint. Rule #1: Try not to make a bigger mess than it already is. Rule #2: Use lots of Prep-All.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #32 by CoupeBoy » Thu Apr 28, 2016 3:02 pm

I've been watching for a replacement fender locally for a long time, I've even considered buying a repair panel for the front of the fender.
I wasn't planning on paint this year, fixing and epoxy priming.
I had been considering taking the drivers fender to a guy who actually does body work and having him take care of that one while I soak up some tips.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #33 by OpelGT+3point3 » Tue May 10, 2016 11:50 am

After your car is all finished and receives its final color coat, you WILL find flaws in that driver fender repair when it's all shiny and the light hits it just right. I looked at a mustang yesterday that had flawless paint, but the roof and hood were so wavy and bumpy I didn't even bother to check out the fenders and doors. It was a shame because the interior and engine compartment were perfect. The owner couldn't stop with the excuses but it didn't change the fact that his car's value was severely impacted by the flaws showing through the paint. You're looking at a huge investment in time and material to be taking chances on someone else's expertise concerning one removable part that will no doubt detract from your car's overall level of quality. I call it an unnecessary risk.

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #34 by CoupeBoy » Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:44 pm

Locally I found a guy who claims to know where there are roughly 30 falcons within 100 miles of my house.
He thinks he can get me a fender.

My next area of concern is under the rear seat, there is a divider that is vertical that holds the front of the rear seat, over 30 years of sitting, this car has rusted across a lot of the floor pan.
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Rusted behind it.
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Nobody reproduces a patch panel for this, so I bought a 1ft x 8ft piece of 18g steel and will be forming my own.
The slot itself is only about 2" wide at its widest, and the work will be almost completely hidden from site behind the vertical support.

Should I try and butt weld this, or should I flange and weld in the new piece?
Should I attack it from the bottom or the top?
Should I take out that vertical divider? Or cut the rusty metal off the bottom of it in place and then weld the new steel onto it?

Any recommendation cut off/out tool?
cut off wheel? air nibbler? plasma cutter?

Thanks again!
-ron

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Re: Bodywork Tools, what do I need?

Post #35 by OpelGT+3point3 » Sat Jun 04, 2016 3:02 am

I like to use 16ga so I can overlap it. The thicker metal won't burn off the edge so bad than the thinner stuff. Sometimes it takes a lot of cutting to get out all the pitted metal; sometimes not worth trying to weld the entire seam. I use the HF angle grinder with a 1/16" 4.5 disc. I replaced the entire rear floor in my 61 ranchero with overlapping 16 ga sections; about twenty pieces..it's solid. keep the overlaps narrow so you can cover them with undercoating from the bottom. Bondo the tops and undercoat over it. It's never gonna be new again, but it can be better..

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