1975 F250 Crew Cab "War hog"

[CoupeBoy]

Late in the Summer (early Fall) of 2015 I had an opportunity to buy a truck that I have been after for a while.

One came up at a local auction sold as a:
1975 Ford F250 4x4 Crew Cab Short Bed


At the time of purchase it didn't matter which motor or transmission was in it, it didn't matter if there was rust in the fenders, doors, or box, so long as the cab was in decent shape and the motor ran, I wanted it and had to have it.
So I bought it.

Right away I knew something was 'off' about the truck, when I went to decode the VIN it came up as

F25YC
F25 - F250 2 Wheel Drive
Y - V8 - 360cid - 2BBL carb - 1973-76
C - Ontario, Canada

I found out much later that this truck started life as a '78 and was in an accident somewhere along the lines that necessitated a complete body swap.
So the drivetrain and frame is all 1978 F250 with modifications to fit the 1975 body.
For those that don't know, up until early '77 F250's ran 34" wide frames and in late '77 they switched to the more common 37" wide that is still in use today.
I wouldn't perform the swap just for the benefits, but it is nice to have.

But this truck is 4wd, and it has a 400 not a 360.
Long term, a 400 isn't going to work for me, I don't have any spare motors, I don't want to start collecting them.
By far most people who swap motors in these trucks go to either a 460 or a Cummins 6bt.
I already own a 6.0L PSD, one diesel is enough. With as much as I know about them now and with almost 70k on the one I have now, it would be an easy choice for me.
A 460 would drop right in, bolt up to the same transmission a fairly easy swap, but I plan on driving this truck a LOT and feeding 7.5L @ 75mph (empty no trailer) sounds expensive.

Goal
Daily Driver 25,000-35,000 miles per year @ highway speeds 55-80mph
I'd ideally like to get it into the mid teens for mpg, I do realize my speeds are the biggest MPG killer.
Has to stay low enough to fit into 7ft garage/shop doors
Has to perform all the same functions as my '05 F250 as far as towing
Has to be reliable
I'm *trying* to keep it simple
300-400hp motor with overdrive transmission (I'm not firmly set on manual or auto)

Plan (I'll come back and edit this section with links as I knock them off the punch list)
Take care of mechanical and safety needs first including
Tune up
Fix brake booster
Repair any obvious mechanical failures.
2009 F250 rear leaf springs to replace the broken 1978 leaves
2004 F250 X-code front leaf springs
Replace the rusted rear fuel tank
Add a second under-box fuel tank and remove the in-cab fuel tank.
Remove Custom welded on bumpers and install stock or custom bolt on bumpers.
Install receiver hitch (class III or better)
Install 5th wheel hitch
Install trailer brake controller and associated wiring
Install sway bars front and rear
Rust repair/replace as necessary, coat everything in Epoxy Primer
Eventually install 1999+ superduty crew cab front and rear seats
Mudflaps and running boards/side steps
Tinted windows
AC
Cruise
Tilt



I really do not love the home built bumpers, look how far this thing hangs down AND there is no easy way to change ball size.

The front bumper

Just look at those welds

[CoupeBoy]

It was grungy under the hood, years of neglect.


First I replaced the acclerator pump on the 2bbl, I don't need raw fuel sitting on top of the engine by the ignition system.

I pressure washed the entire engine bay and then did a tune up on the motor
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and wires.
The previous owner had installed an electric fuel pump, but they left the mechanical pump installed.
When the electric pump was running, it was pushing fuel through the stock mechanical pump, literally it was pushing it out between the two sections of the of the pump, fuel was practically pouring out onto the front differential.



After the fuel pump, I moved on to the vacuum brake booster, I knew it was shot because the truck only ran "good" when the vacuum hose to the booster was pinched shut.
When I removed it, I learned just how bad it was.

pay no attention to the double valve covers, its an illusion...
The replacement booster is for a '75 F350 and is dual diaphram compared to the original '75 F250 that is single diaphram.
this should reduce the amount of pressure required to engage the brakes.


I also replaced the exhaust manifold gasket on the passenger side, only to find that it also had a cracked manifold.

The truck at least would start and run somewhat reliably now, I suspect that carb needs to be rebuilt, it doesn't help that I've replaced the carb fuel pump (not the clear one) 5 times already and I haven't even left the yard, the stock fuel tanks had that much garbage/rust in them.

So I started on the next phase.. more fixing.. sounds like the same stage to me....

[CoupeBoy]

I created a whole thread in the suspension section on the rear leaf spring upgrade, I'm not done yet, still in progress.
2009 F250 Rear Leaf Springs onto a 75 F250 -- FordSix Forum
Dec 29, 2015 (before)

Feb 23,2016 (after 2009 f250 spring upgrade)

About the only visual clue to see the height change is the amount of frame above the top of the tire, which is hard to see in the first picture.

[CoupeBoy]

I created another thread for the gas tank swap, I wasn't exactly sure where something like that belonged...
1975 F250 Fuel Tank swap from 19gallon to 38 gallon -- FordSix Forum

Before

After


Before I put the box back on, I still need to
Install a Reciever hitch (Class III minimum)
Install the 5th wheel hitch
Create new shock mounts

And while I'm gathering parts for that, I am also working on this...

[CoupeBoy]

A while back, I responded to a local Craigslist ad, a guy was selling a Ford 300 out of a '78 F150, he is swapping in a 460.
I made him an offer on the motor, roughly half of what he was asking. He declined and we went our separate ways. Then a couple weeks ago he called me back ready to sell the motor for what I offered, and offered me anything I wanted off the '78 f150. I told him that I was interested in the front sheet metal.

Mine has suffered abuses in its life and I was preparing to buy buy patch panels or replace panels as available from local sources.

Driver side front fender
Rusted

And dented


Front/top/Center of hood is all dented in.


Passenger side Front fender and leading edge of the door
rusted


I had planned on pilfering all the sheet metal I could use off this truck at Dad's house.



But back to the guy from the Craigslist ad.
He texted me Wednesday and said he had sold the motor, but he had the sheetmetal ready to go, best of all... free.

I loaded it all up last night and strapped it down.


nice hood


Grill surround, insert, and a front bumper with a lot of pitting.


Driver Side front fender and door
Nothing more than surface rust.


Passenger Side front fender and door
Same surface rust, nothing more.


The plan is to strip these down, prep and lay down some epoxy primer.... when the weather warms up anyhow.
Epoxy primer comes in black, grey, red, or white. The guys at Napa said they can tint white if I like, so I will need to figure out what temporary color I ant to live with while I sort out the rest of my body issues..

These pics are from a recent eBay listing and the direction I'm headed.



But I just can't shake the notion of the racetrack trim, like the red/white truck in this picture from (I don't remember where)

I'll have to find some articles on adding the trim and go re-read the article on here about making back door trim.

I hate to do things twice and I hate spending money twice to get a job done.
And my personal philosophy is to take care of safety (suspension/brakes/lights) first and then performance.
"Stop first; performance and looks later"
But I really need to swap out that original 2bbl for the 4bbl intake and carb, the 2bbl needs to be rebuilt and I'm tired of messing with it.

[CoupeBoy]

The plan with the doors will be to strip them down, remove all trim and glass, then sand blast them and paint them in epoxy, I'll store the chrome trim for future use, leaving the mounting tabs (not the brackets) in place, and at a future date decide if I want to put on the full trim, or remove the studs that hold the brackets in place and leave it plain.

I have also ordered and received rust repair panels for the box wheel wells and the cab corner from a company called Tabco I haven't used them yet, but they look good.
Eventually I'll have to figure out the best repair process for the front floor pans and cab supports, both right and left need replacing. The previous owner allowed the windshield gasket to get dried and cracked and then the water ran into the interior and puddled on the floor in those two areas destroying the floor.

I'm debating with myself as to whether I should cut the ones from a spare regular cab that I got for free with the other body parts, or if I should order new ones.

The front suspension is up next, I've been told by the local wrecking yards that it will be about 2 weeks before they can get back into the yard to get the springs I want.

[chad]

I too like that 'race track' paint scheme. Just make it a lill smaller (all around), flat black, and darken the green U got for the rest of the body?
How do U get the dents outta the chrome grill pieces (surround etc) w/o scratches?

[woodbutcher]

Hi Coupeboy.Yep.it`s good to go,BUT,its even nicer to whoa.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[CoupeBoy]

After a brief hiatus.. back on the crew cab.
Last time I had it idling next to the shop, it died mysteriously.
Solution was pretty simple. Add gas to gas tank

Upon startup after adding as, I had 2 new problems.
The acclerator pump was gushing fuel every time I pressed on the accelerator.
This fixed itself, and the 2bbl is temporary only anyhow.

The other problem was far more serious and required intervention.
The fuel line was dumping gas onto the top of the block where the distributor is plugged in.

The reason was that the previous owner had run rubber hose from the fuel pump up to the carb, and his routing was more than just questionable, he had black taped it to the upper radiator hose, immediately above the water pump pulley. I had re-routed it under the distributor and away from the pulley months ago, but I never examined the hose.

I should have, it was almost completely worn through. Why it waited until I ran it out of gas is still a mystery.


The solution was pretty easy to decide and implement.
Make a new metal line from the pump up to near the carb.


I really need to go buy a tubing bender, I hand bent this one. I used any metal shape I had near me as a form. And it worked, but not without a few small kinks.


After a lot of bending, test fitting, installing, removing, repeating process...


Back together, tucked behind the power steering pump, it vanishes into non-descript color of the rest of the motor.


Now I can move on to the next part of this project. Installing hitches. This truck will be getting a Class 5 reciever hitch out back and a pop up 5th wheel hitch in the bed.
One of the things I'd like to be doing with this truck is pulling the Airstream I bought last year (1971 Sovereign 31ft)


Sadly for now all I can do is pretend, and take pictures at an angle to create the illusion of towing.


I got the Class V hitch from my neighbor for free, and I spent some time looking at it and clamping it in place to determine the best mounting location.
Option 1.
This moves the hitch under the truck a bit farther (about 4 inches) and resolves the issue I have with the rivet heads.
But it also moves the hitch pretty far under where the expected bumper will be.


Option 2
This moves the hitch to the farthest rearward part of the frame, but then the solid part of the brackets runs into the rivets that hold the last frame crossmember in place.
This picture is at a funky angle because installing a hitch by ones self sucks.


Interesting bit about this location is that one of the hitch mount holes lines up exactly with a factory hole in the frame.


Option 2 is the mount location that I think I am going to use.
Here is it with some grade 8 bolts through the factory holes, and I loosened the vice grips to allow it to sit straighter.


Here is a close up of the rivet interference and a weld that I need to grind down/off. I am also thinking about grinding the crown off the rivets. Then I'll use a thin shim between the frame and hitch mounting brackets.
When the hitch is installed permanently it will have (3) 1/2" grade 8 bolts on each side, and they will be with the head bolt on the top so I don't have interference with the fuel tank.


Once that is done, I'll turn to the 5th wheel hitch.
Nobody makes a kit to install a 5th wheel hitch to the frame of a '75 F250. Luckily I found a local trailer shop selling just the center section of a B&W pop up ball on craigslist for $50.
I stared at lots of other truck 5th wheel installations including my own '05 F250 and I am pretty confident my solution will work.

Here are the major components.
3/8" thick 2"x2" angle iron
the B&W hitch.



This is how the 5th wheel is installed on my '05
angle iron holding the center in place with 1/4" plates on the out side of the frame.


Where the angle iron goes above the frame the angle iron is notched.

When I install mine, I will notch the vertical part of the angle iron, but I don't see any point to the trimming they did on the horizontal part.
For reference my '75 has only 1" of clearance from the frame to the box floor, which seems to be very similar to what the factory '05 installation looks like.

And then I'll clean up and modify the rear shock mounting points.

One of the previous owners must have owned a welder.
He built these shock extensions and welded them to the axle, I'll start by cutting these off.

And up on the frame, one shock mount is a stocker.

The other one he fabricated out of flat stock and a piece of C-channel.


I haven't exactly decided on how the shocks will be oriented in the new configuration, but it will have through bolts in double shear at both ends, not that single top post/bushing setup.

Then all I need to do is buy a brake controller and wire it in place with a good 12v main feed line directly from the battery and I can finally put the box back on.

[CoupeBoy]

Final bolted in location.

The lighting was terrible, but under the bottom of the hitch mount brackets there is a 1/4" thick 1.5' x 2" rectangular block/spacer to spread out the load. All grade 8 hardware (bolts/nuts)

Last night in 91f temps with 80% humidity, my son climbed into the truck and rolled down the windows on the driver side, which I knew about and then I rolled them up before I went inside. What I didn't know was that he also rolled down the passenger rear window.


Last night a thunderstorm rolled through and dumped about 3/4" of rain on us. Thanks Son!


I forgot my drill outside too, that sucked.
This morning I got up bright and early and fit the extra capacity fuel tank back into the frame rails.


I cut new spacers for the bottom strap bolts 7" both sides. The original ones were different lengths, I'm not sure if this will be a problem or not.


What is a problem is that the top of the tank protruded slightly above the frame rails where a box crossmember is supposed to bolt on, I checked clearance with the angle iron that is supposed to be for the 5th wheel.


It looks like just a couple flat washers will give me just enough clearance


I was able to put those 2 washers under the bolt spacer, effectively moving the fuel tank down lower in the frame rail, I put one above and another below the square tubing spacer. No picture.

I felt the hitch was really high so I measured it, the bottom of the hitch is right at 23"

By comparison
My 2005 F250 stock height but with a 2.5" lift/level spring spacer in the front is much lower at 13"

And my Wife's 2012 Tahoe LT is 22"


When I level off the front, I assume the back will come down a little to the same height as the Tahoe. I should be 'ok'.

And now if I were to add a brake controller with 12v power, greater than 95% of my towing needs would be met.

A new/old problem.
A long time ago, I replaced the leaking fuel pump, I think that when I was making the metal fuel line, I may have ruptured/torn the connector on the fuel pump that the hard line is screwed into.
Fuel is literally pouring out of the fuel pump when the truck is running, awesome.

http://vid689.photobucket.com/albums/vv ... elsz0h.mp4
Looks like I'll be replacing the fuel pump. Again.


And for today I get to drop off 2 tires/rims for the boy's 4wheeler. He has been riding around on 2 inflated and 2 flat (won't hold air) tires.
My Dad gave him the 4wheeler; after rebuilding the carburator and installing a battery, he has been driving the wheels off it.

Jackstands are important for all vehicluar work.

[chad]

Why/What's the silver "frame paint"?
Special?
Thanks ~

[CoupeBoy]

Why/What's the silver "frame paint"?
Special?
Thanks ~

i wanted to try silver as a frame color to contrast all the black parts. No special reason other than that.

[chad]

K
thnx!
Thought it might be a specailty item 4 frames or sompin…
(don't wanna miss out on those, do I now!)

[CoupeBoy]

I am test driving the color for now.
After I get done making all my modifications I will sandblast the frame and paint it a final color.

One of the nice things about any color frame paint is that now when I lean over or work under the truck, I am not getting rust on my clothes or in my eye, or breaking it.

So far I do like the silver.

[chad]

I've run into some controversy with the subject. There is a specific frame paint that goes on kinda thick (my brush stuck to it as applied). Came highly recommended by the auto body / auto paint supplier and some friends. It did not seem 'rubberized' as I recall (2 yrs. ago).

Another group believe that a 'regular paint' will not hide the corrosion "as it develops under that stuff you applied."

Any knowledge, experience or opinion?

Thank you ~

[CoupeBoy]

I am not experienced or knowledgeable on frame refinishing.

But here is what is going to happen.
Epoxy paint. Black or silver.
Or powder coat.

No rubberized coatings. When I called the powder coated here in Fargo he quoted me 300-$500 to sandblast and coat the frame. When I asked why such a swing in pricing he said that it depends on the frame finish at the time of blasting and that rubberized coatings are hard to remove and took a lot lore time to sandblast.

Given that I plan to drive it mostly in the winter, I did consider having it galvanized, there is s place here in town that is reasonable.

[chad]

epoxy, power coat, galvie. no rubber.
the 1st is likr the rubber in result - rust can start unseen underneath (we call it bed liner, no?).
the 2nd sounds good but needs to have a big enuff oven to sit in - expensive.
didn't know they could do the 3rd - expensive?
thanks ~

[bubba22349]

Well no, Epoxy paint isn't the same as Bed Liner material.

[chad]

:hmmm: Well no, Epoxy paint isn't the same as Bed Liner material.

i got a UPol paint (Raptor) w/zero 'crum count" ( ie no rubber chips init, all plastic paint). seems like it to me. How can I
tell the difference?

tanks ~

[bubba22349]

Basically there are quite a number of different types of Resins so you need to use the correct one for the type of material your covering. Also until you mix in the Activator it won't harden then you need to work quickly to as you only have about 5 hours total until it's hard. Here a link you can read more about them. I used it on the Chassis of couple Model A's (show cars) and a few Drag race cars in the late 1960's early 1970's it looked great and lasted. Still looked really good on one of Model A's when it was sold in 2001 those cars weren't used much on the street though. Good luck

http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/ ... eshooting/

[chad]

I C the off roaders puttin it everywhere: frame, push bars, body sheet metal, roll bars'n bumpers, floor pans (inside & underneath)…
Need a 'shots gun' (pretty cheep, came in my kit) but the after-heat aint entirely necessary.

[Soldmy66]

Are the coating products you are talking about similar to POR-15?

[CoupeBoy]

There are so many different things going on here..
4 wheel guys use undercoating or truck bed liner to rubberize everything, if done properly it will starve the underlying metal of oxygen which should prevent the metal from rusting, can be 1/8-3/16" thick.
epoxy, acrylic, enamel are all painted on, super thin, measured in mils 1-10mils
POR-15 can be sprayed or brushed on, I don't know what composition is, but it is slightly thicker than paint and thinner than undercoating, its main function is also to starve the underlying metal from oxygen.
And there are other projects like lizard skin that contains ceramic and can be used for metal protection and sound deadening.

Now, I've been known to sidetrack a thread or two in my day.

I've been trying to keep this thread clean by starting sub threads for minor projects, like the gas tank and leaf spring swap.
I think it is time the frame coating discussion took a walk over to the different forum, maybe "Body, Paint, and Interior"?

Kapeesh?

[chad]

There are so many different things going on here..
4 wheel guys use undercoating or truck bed liner to rubberize everything, if done properly it will starve the underlying metal of oxygen which should prevent the metal from rusting, can be 1/8-3/16" thick.
epoxy, acrylic, enamel are all painted on, super thin, measured in mils 1-10mils
POR-15 can be sprayed or brushed on, I don't know what composition is, but it is slightly thicker than paint and thinner than undercoating, its main function is also to starve the underlying metal from oxygen.
And there are other projects like lizard skin that contains ceramic and can be used for metal protection and sound deadening.

Now, I've been known to sidetrack a thread or two in my day.

I've been trying to keep this thread clean by starting sub threads for minor projects, like the gas tank and leaf spring swap.
I think it is time the frame coating discussion took a walk over to the different forum, maybe "Body, Paint, and Interior"?

Kapeesh?

Oh, I think I get it now. You'd like to make a build thread of this?. May be not? I guess I don't understand the whole process. Pardon me for any indescretions. See you on some other threads, and thanks for this one.

[CoupeBoy]

I've been making progress on custom bumpers.
I finally got the previous owners front brackets torched off, it did a little damage to my frame horns, but nothing terribly worse than what the PO had done.

His holes had been torched through the frame.


ok, I buggered this one up just a little bit more than his original sin.


I had an old/original bumper laying around, so I tossed it on with only the top 2 bolts to hold it in place.
That will do for now.


Out back, through a very unscientific process, I found that an 8" tall bumper would fill the gap between the tailgate and receiver hitch nicely.


And equally unscientifically, I decided that the new bumper should be 4" wide.
So with my final dimensions in mind (4" wide, 8" tall, 4"wide on bottom), I called around looking for 4x8" rectangular tubing with 3/16 or 1/4" wall.
That proved to be expensive, about $130/each.

Next idea.. take a piece of 16" tall 3/16" flat plate steel 75" long and bend it X-inches by 8" tall by X-inches on bottom. (this turns out to be very close to 4x8x4 -- give or take a little bit for bend allowances)

Tada! the makings of new bumpers ($130 total including the 1/4" flat plate that I bought to make bumper mount brackets)


Of course I needed to see how it would look "in the raw"


For rear bumper mount brackets, this is what I came up with.
I started with a piece of cardboard 8" tall and 12" long.
The notch out of the top right corner is 2.25" x 8", and this looks good to me.


Transfer the measurements onto the 1/4" flat plate steel.


A couple quick cuts with a handheld plasma torch, and presto!
Almost instant bumper bracket (I'll grind it to make it better in a little bit)


Test fit it into the C-channel.


Test fit it onto the frame.


Everything looks good, so I cut a second one.


After a little quality time with the hand held grinder, everything was looking and fitting better!



Now you remember that I was sort of 'winging' this right?
I needed to figure out how to mount the brackets to the frame, it had to be bolted on, I WILL NOT weld the bumper onto the frame.

I located these 3 factory holes in the frame, the bottom 3, 2 are large, one is small. I opened up the smaller one to accept a 1/2" bolt.


And transferred them onto my cardboard template.


Then onto my brackets


And then through a lot of drill bit changes, started at 1/8" and stepped up gradually to 1/2", I had brackets ready to be bolted to the frame.


Here is the frame holes, now you can see the little one has been opened up to 1/2"


And now the brackets are bolted in place, there is about 1/2" of free space between the brackets and the box.


And another test fit, where I identified that I need to take some notches out of the corners.


I cut small rectangles out of the top of the bumper that are 2.5" x 4.25", plasma and grind.


Now the rear bumper is looking good.





My wife said it looked fine all squared off, but still not quite what I want, so I started plotting some changes.
I want the box to fully protect the box corners, which leaves me with the long triangle cut on the right, or the lower diagonal cut on the left.
The other 2, straight and continual diagonal from top to bottom were both ruled out by me as being either too ugly, or providing insufficient protection.


This morning, I got back to work on it.

I decided to use a straight edge to assist in making nicer cut lines, I think it helped a lot.

The pie cut I took out is roughly 18" long, and 2 1/8" tall on the outer edge.

I also cut out this little slice to help with the metal bending, there is no way that the rounded corner would bend nicely.


I beveled the edges, then used a series of clamps to pull it back together



I then used my flux core MIG (HF 90amp) to weld it all back together.

And the backside


After some work with the grinder, I test fit it.


And then after repeating the process for the other side, I test fit it again.
I ran out of time to grind down the weld before I had to get ready for work.


I need to figure out how to close up the ends of it nicely, and I'm mulling over ways to add additional lateral braces.
But it is mostly done.



Not bumper related, but still truck related, I ordered and received a bunch of new shock mounting tabs/brackets.


I am going to cut off the current axle brackets and weld these to the front side of the tube in a location that will put the mount bolt in almost the exact same location.
And I'll unbolt the upper shock mounts, then drill new holes to mount the new brackets.

This is the current/old setup.


And if you want to know why I'm not simply replacing the original brackets, it is because I don't want anything hanging below the axle tube except the center section.
That way if I ever do go off roading or mudding, I have fewer things to get hung up on.

[chad]

Lookin good!
I esp like the angled bottom change.
Wish I had ur equp, $, skill, etc (I know your time is as limited as mine).

You asked no suggestions so I offer these w/trepidation.

Some don't like the big gap between the body (tail gait esp) & top of the bumper - put an El tab the length of that area, keeps out dirt & accompanying rust/need for constant cleaning. Others put 'ends' on their bumpers so that there is a radius around the side of the body wrk to protect the corner.
Keep up the good wrk, thnx 4 showin the steps and materials.

[CoupeBoy]

It isn't suggestions or criticism that I don't like, it is when a sub-topic side tracks a main thread, and that sub-topic deserves a larger audience and should be dealt with on its own that I don't like.

The gap between the bumper and tail gate is much less than a stock bumper.

Take a peak at these random internet pictures.

P9080148.jpg

Compared to.


When the tail gate is open, there is less than 1" between it and the bumper, I really don't think there is much else to do to close up that gap.

As for the end of the bumper, I have looked at other trucks with wrap around style bumpers, like this one at Dad's house.


And I don't know if I like the look, plus the way it was mounted to the body caused some accelerated rust in that area.


I am probably just going to square off the ends and cap them. If I change my mind later, I always know where to find my grinder and welder.

This is my metal working outfit.. Everything on this rolling table, including the rolling table and auto-darkening welding helmet cost me under $300, I collected it over years worth of watching local sales and talking to co-conspirators.


As far as tools, this job really only requires 3 tools.
welder
grinder
drill

The plasma cutter is nice to speed up cuts, but I also spend a lot of time cleaning up the cuts with a grinder before I can weld it, I'd call it debatable as to whether or not it really speeds things up.
And you could do the same with an oxy/ace torch setup.

FWIW, I went to a neighbors house to use his oxy/ace torch to remove the bolts from the previous owners front bumper brackets, I do not own one. And when it comes time to weld those shock mounts to the axle tube, I will again go visit a neighbor who has a much nicer welder than I do AND he knows how to use it better.

I drove the big ferd to work last Friday.

So far I have put about 130 miles on it. It isn't a lot, but that is 2 trips to the nearest town and one to Fargo.

[chad]

didn't mean to hit some sore spots. Sorry U "don't like"…

Mr. TN seems to have done something that Mr. PA might have thought about.
The Brn&Tan that could B @ ur Dad's yard might have been too close and long.

This board is pretty friendly and my comments were meant in that ethos/pathos.
Things look like they're going pretty good with ur project.

Thanks for takin us along ~

[CoupeBoy]

I dropped the ball on updates here..

In August 2016, the 400 suffered a very sudden loss of oil pressure.
I got the truck home and made it sit in the corner (shelterbelt) until this Spring, February to be precise.
It still ran and drove, and only knocked when warm under acceleration.. so I drove it into the shop and dropped the exhaust and oil pan and replaced the oil pump with a brand new Melling standard flow/pressure pump. Made no difference.

Then I took vacation down to Florida for a week; Sanford, Orlando, St Pete's Beach, Clearwater.
When I got home I pulled the motor, flipped it over and put in new bearings.


I've seen worse..


And after reassembling the lower end, I flipped it back over and heard a noise UNDER the intake manifold..so I pulled that.
And there I found my oil pressure problem. A pushrod had bent so badly that it fell out and then the oil had pushed a lifter out of its bore. When I ran the oil pump with my drill, it GUSHED oil from the lifter hole problem was fixed by installing 16 new pushrods and I finally installed my 4bbl intake/carb.



This is much better..


And then an old repair on the radiator reared its ugly head, so I ordered up a new one from RockAuto.
Here is 3 radiators
Left to right 1970 F250 390/manual, my original 400/C6, and the new ADI unit from RockAuto.com


I plugged that in with a new 7lb radiator cap.. and blew the heater core..


Installed a new heater core.


I also took the opportunity to remove the aftermarket transmission cooler and route the lines to use the in-radiator cooler.


Horrible transmission cooler hose routing...




And now..




All new radiator, radiator hoses, heater hoses, heater core, thermostat, intake (used), carb (used), and some color on the valve covers.


Working on the bumpers...

The rear is almost done, I just need to apply more weld between the mounting brackets and bumper shell.


The front is about done, I need to replace the body bushings before I have a final mounting.



I thought I had a problem with the turn signal switch (TSS)... turns out it was just the TSS connector at the base of the steering column...


I thought I had a problem with the carb, so I pulled it apart and rebuilt it.. the real problem was an empty gas tank...


KYB was running a rebate when buying a set of 4 shocks, so I ordered up a set of KYB Gas-A-Just from RockAuto


I had to cut the 'extension' off the front shock mounts.



Bolted the original bracket back onto the frame and installed the new front shocks.



Out back, I cut the bolts and removed the 'original' shock mounts.
Also pictured are the new mounts that I ordered.


One bolt hole lined up, the other top left one I 'made fit' by running a drill bit through the holes and allowing it to 'clearance' the holes in the frame/bracket so the bolt fit. The bottom hole I drilled a new one.


I still need to fix the lower shock mounts, those holes were cut with a torch, not a drill bit.. grr..


New rear shocks are mounted and working great.


Out of the garage, I've put about 300 miles on it in the last week.


This light amuses me more than it should, I thought I read that it is a 1975 only feature, basically there is a vacuum operated switch on the firewall and when I step hard on the gas pedal, the loss of vacuum makes the light come on.. with this motor/trans/gear ratio, it should just stay on all the time while driving...


Projects that I have parts for, and now just need time..
2004 F-250 X-code front leaf springs
I built front shackles, and I have new u-bolts. I am going to flip the u-bolts so the nuts are on top, for that I still need to make new u-bolt spring plates.

Current setup uses some sort of home made spacer..



New Body bushings
I have all the mounting hardware, I just need the time.

5th wheel hitch
I have the center section, I still need to make the support rails.

Body repair panels
I have them for the box wheel openings and the passenger rear cab corner.
I need to order floor pans right/left and new front cab mounts.

2008 F250 leather seats.
I picked up a full set of leather seats front/rear.
I want to dye them black.

[ludwig]

Well, you sure don't take the easy way out. Those NoDak winters have kept you plenty productive. I love where you are headed with that.

BTW, that 'fuel economy' light was what they used to use as the only approved non-factory accessory on the Mobile Economy Run from years past. Just that it was a gauge not a light. And was more important than the speedo. If you are hauling a camper trailer, the tach would be even more important than those two. Right?

[CoupeBoy]

Well, you sure don't take the easy way out.

There was an easy way?

I plan on rebuilding every last thing on this truck, I've been researching how to make my own bearing races.

Those NoDak winters have kept you plenty productive.

A majority of my winter was actually spent cleaning my shop, no lie, early October to late January I did nothing but move and organize 'stuff' on the shelves, tore out a bunch of bolted together shelving, acquired some pallet rack shelves and narrowed them to 26",
welded them back together, bought a bunch of cheap/warped 2x4's to use as shelf bottoms (the shelves are only 22.5" wide, warp don't matter), almost 6 pickup box load of junk. I also built an air/hydraulic tubing bender, and started on a brake for my 20t press.
It was a winter of some of the most menial, time consuming jobs ever. Other jobs that I didn't get done this winter.. the furnace still doesn't work. I haven't assembled the 40lb sand blast cabinet. I have all the plumbing I need for adding a 3/4" filter/desiccant drier,
and 3/4" ID plumbing (using 1" PEX) to my aircompressor so I don't have to run hoses everywhere.. And I have the hardware to build a 4 wheel rolling gantry that I plan on adding a chain hoist to for easier removal of cabs/boxes, that I haven't assembled yet...

I love where you are headed with that.

Thanks!

BTW, that 'fuel economy' light was what they used to use as the only approved non-factory accessory on the Mobile Economy Run from years past. Just that it was a gauge not a light. And was more important than the speedo. If you are hauling a camper trailer, the tach would be even more important than those two. Right?

I'll likely add a tach sooner or later, for now, I've been sticking the slower 55mph roads and rolling the window down so I can stick my elbow out it.

[ludwig]

A majority of my winter was actually spent cleaning my shop, no lie, early October to late January

Probably found three lost winter-beaters under all that material, no doubt. Ahh, but spring is here and the creative energy is flowing. Love it.

[CoupeBoy]

Only 2

IMG_5140.JPG

Do you know anything about Thermoquads?

IMG_5141.JPG

I picked these 2 up at the beginning is September.
The real goal is to use the powertrain out of the orange (more rusty) one in the brown (less rusty) one.

IH Scout II's came from the factory with wheel well rust...

[ludwig]

You are pretty lucky. My wife wants me to finish the house before I get another project car.

Only 2 beaters. Somehow that's just not enough. But probably more than you need.

[CoupeBoy]

The Scout(s) are my wife's requested project.
She was the one who wanted a convertible (full removable top) 4x4.
I am but a humble servant with hands...

I do still have the 63.5 Falcon Convertible, which is drivable, but also waiting its turn to be pretty...

The orange scout runs (ish) and drives (when it runs), its biggest problem with being reliable is that the gas tank is a rusty mess on the inside, I started it and backed it into the shop last night using a temporary gas tank, small gas can with 3/8" hose stuck in it. In the next few days I'll pull the tank and have it steam cleaned by a radiator shop over in Moorhead MN, I can only find one place that will still do it...

While the tank is out, I'm going to rebuild the carb, the original Thermoquad had a stuck accelerator pump, but idled/ran. The thermoquad on it now is off the brown Scout, and apparently it has problems with floats, needle valves/seat, or too much fuel pressure. I doubt its fuel pressure though because the other carb never puked gas out the breather holes like the 2nd one does.. I've got 4 thermoquads total, but the other 2 are off newer Dodges and they have some extra features on them that I am not sure I want to mess with.

This morning she texted me that I need to divert my attention to the Airstream.


I pulled the AS into the barn last October with hopes that I'd find time to reseal the windows and replace the ceiling vents.


Some clod had previously "sealed" a majority of the windows with clear silicone, which is a HUGE no-no on an Airstream.


Initially it seals, but then it starts to deteriorate and the aluminum oxidizes under it making it worthless.
In some areas, you could literally grab and peel it back, no adhesion at all.


This is the 40yr old original sealant below.
It also needs to come off.


Lots of manual labor in this process, not a lot of special tools required.
Some wood or plastic scrapers (nothing metal), some 0000 steel wool, and some Acetone.


I started with this corner because it was easiest, and I'm right handed... I am going to end up buffing/polishing the entire trailer also.



Here is that top driver side front Vista View window again I have already removed some of the silicone


Just terrible...



This window is done getting the silicone removed, I don't know why I didn't take a picture of it when done.


Now I'll go back with some tape and make a 1/4" trough around the window and use a product called Vulkem to reseal the windows.
And I've got a new vent fan for the front, and new 3/4" plywood for the floor in the rear where this trailer suffered from 'separation'.

Looks like I'll be diverting my attention to this for the next month or 2.
The inside is completely gutted in preparation for a remodel, our goal this year is to have a 'metal tent' that we can pull around and haul our stuff in, most places that we stop will have facilities, so the onboard black, clear, and eventual grey tanks can be left out for now.

Its not that I slowdown or quit working on things, its that a lot of it is fairly mundane... until it isn't....

[ludwig]

Usually, an AirStream from the Midwest that looks like that is a job shack at a construction project somewhere. Didn't they use caulk ropes originally? I think so.

OTOH, Vulkem is da BOMB. I used it on the basement walls, below grade on the outside. I see a lot of taping and scraper work in your future.

(As far as wives are concerned, I'm pretty lucky. Just before Christmas, my wife said I needed to get more guns. "But I have enough," I said. "Well, think about it," she offered. The house is for her. I - like you - am but a humble servant. But I get to live here too.)

[CoupeBoy]

Between the window frame and the exterior sheet metal there is a paper gasket of some sort, when I was cleaning I did use a metal dental pick set to dig down deep under there and I snagged it. But the outside edge was always sealed with some sort of caulk.

I've never used Vulkem, I ordered some from Inland RV when I ordered a bunch of window seal material..

The previous owner had not performed any sort of 'normal' maintenance and had simply duct taped the window and access door gaps to keep the wind out.

FWIW, an Airstream in NoDak being used in the winter would suck... they have from the factory only an R3 rating for insulation.

[ludwig]

With a 12" hole in the floor for ice fishing.

FWIW, give you two plus thumbs up for everything you are doing. I like the garage/barn too. One day ....

[bubba22349]

coupeboy I am glad to see you are still making some headway on all your projects. One suggestion though from my Air Craft Mechacanic training is that you shouldn't use the regular steel wool on any Aluminum as the steel fibers get down into the pours of the Aluminum and then later cause corrosion. The Stainless type would be ok though. Good luck

[CoupeBoy]

I'm pretty sure this is the exact one I'm using at home.
HOMAX 1 Bag (16 Pads) #0000 SUPER FINE Steel Wool Pads -- Amazon.com

[bubba22349]

Yeah that's the regular steel wool. Maybe be you can follow up with a scotch brite pad or some fine wet and dry sand paper. Or start with fine grain bronze wool that will eliminate the oxidation and help restore the finish of the aluminum. Then you can follow up with a buffer and Mothers Aluminum Polish if you are going for the full on polished look. Good luck

[xctasy]

Only 2

Do you know anything about Thermoquads?


I picked these 2 up at the beginning is September.
The real goal is to use the powertrain out of the orange (more rusty) one in the brown (less rusty) one.

IH Scout II's came from the factory with wheel well rust...

A little...

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... m-for-351w

used in the Aussie Falcon/Fairmont/Fairlane/LTD's 1976 to 1982 and some De Tomaso's from 1976 to 1989. The Aussie ones had an electric choke, and a common Part # is TQ-9142S



To use this, there is a common 76DA-9425-CB carb flange intake



Edelbrock makes an adaptor for 4bbl square bores to suit its range of Edelbrock Performers, but its also a good ThermoQuad adaptor too.



That version was listed in the Australian Ford bookes as the #9600 series, with its 800 cfm 1-3/8" primaries.

Rated at 188-207 hp net in 302/4.9 Clevelands, and 200 to 216 hp net in 351/5.8 Clevelands. In 1979, each were rerated downwards 16 to 19 hp, largely an on paper loss due in part to manadory single exhaust, added emissions gear, and DIN net ratings instead of SAE net.

They raced these in New Zealands provisional International Group A / FISA Group 2a sedan racing, with stunning results, later on, the ex butcher/long time Logistics Stichbury family used them in Paul's Red XF so-called "SVO" Falcon with a transplanted XE 351 C engine.

There is a common #6545S 850 cfm 1-1/2" primary version used in 1975 360 LA and 440 RD engines. There were 9000 to 9800 part numbers from 1976-1984.

1975 360LA Mopars in # 9004, 850-cfm form.

See http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-1304-rebuilding-a-carter-thermoquad-carburetor/



That allows you to run a hardhitting wide ratio 4r70w 4 speed which would go stratospheric with T birds 2.75 9" gears.

See http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?177794-Got-me-a-4r70w-Now-what

RL Burnside had it all right with this car. Let my baby ride...

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?175701-Hate-for-the-15-quot-S550-quot/page8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lzpDwaxGk4

And the most important, some genuine down to earth good knowledge.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pIEpV4PyvA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOFr3KRW_MQ