$50 paint job

Moderator: Mod Squad

User avatar
rickwrench
Registered User
Posts: 727
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 5:30 pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Contact:

$50 paint job

Post #1 by rickwrench » Sun Apr 23, 2006 2:02 pm

Very interesting thread from Mopar forum:
50 Dollar Paint Job

The interesting part starts about 8-10 posts down, then, it's about 40 pages of info.
I have to say I considered the idea of rolling on paint as ridiculous, BUT, I just finished a few experimental coats on the hood of the Corvair, which, prior to prep, had seven year old Rustoleum rattle can paint, (well used race vehicles get no respect).
And...Holy Crap! It works!
I'm going to do the whole car.
I mixed the Rustoleum (Tremclad = Rustoleum) paint 50/50 with mineral spirits, and used a 4" wide, high density foam roller, as instructed. Using the mineral spirits slows the flash and lets the paint self level very well. 2 coats - wet sand, 2 coats - wet sand, 2 coats - wet sand, let cure and then finish.
Lots of elbow grease and patience involved but I suspect most folks here have much more sweat equity in their cars than wallet equity.
Not a high zoot show finish, but, so far, it looks every bit as good as a single stage acrylic. As with all paint jobs, prep is 90% of the result.
Rick
'62 Falcon Wagons (x2), Kellison J5, V8 Alfa GTam, Corvair Corsa:
www.rickwrench.com

User avatar
cfmustang
Registered User
Posts: 742
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 3:25 pm
Location: Cleveland, OH

Post #2 by cfmustang » Sun Apr 23, 2006 6:06 pm

I wouldn't have believe it if i didn't see it!
-Chris

'66 Vintage Burgundy Mustang coupe
200 cid with .030 overbore and head milled .060"
Clifford dual outlet header through turbo mufflers.
Clifford Weber 2bbl adapter with a Weber 38/38 DGES
Classic Inlines 264 110* HSP cam
1.75 Intake & 1.50 Exhaust SI values (undercut and a 3 angle valve job)
Mallory Unilite and Flamethrower II coil
C-4 Automatic, stock converter.

blueroo
Registered User
Posts: 422
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:58 pm
Location: Lebanon County, PA

Post #3 by blueroo » Mon Apr 24, 2006 12:11 pm

:shock:
CAR:1964 Ford Fairlane 500 aka "Misty Blue"

EXT. COLOR: Guardsman Blue Metallic w/Silver Birch Pearlcoat Roof

ENGINE:170...030 over complete with solid lifters, aka "Black Magic 6"



99 VW Mk3 Jetta Wolfsburg, 2.0/5 speed "Jennie"

User avatar
wallaka
VIP Member
Posts: 2503
Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 1:28 pm
Location: Ole Alabamy Towne

Post #4 by wallaka » Mon Apr 24, 2006 2:52 pm

Well, THAT one is bookmarked. I know what I'll be doing when I get home this October...The Comet is gettin' a paintjob!
Down to 29 cylinders!
2006 Porsche Cayman H6, 1968 Mercury Monterey big block (390), 1967 F-100 240, 1965 Mercury Comet 404 (200), 2009 Triumph Street Triple

68_inliner

Post #5 by 68_inliner » Mon Apr 24, 2006 5:37 pm

That is very interesting. I think I might try it. I have a crappy $700 paint job. There are tons of imperfections, some were there before I had it painted. But can you only do basic colors? No pearls or metallics?

User avatar
rickwrench
Registered User
Posts: 727
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 5:30 pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Contact:

Post #6 by rickwrench » Mon Apr 24, 2006 7:21 pm

Good question.
There aren't too many Rustoleum colors to choose from. Their web site lists the oil based rust paints they have available in a can. I don't know what kind of distribution you'd get trying to roll on pearls or metalics. My guess is that they'd be clumpy.
I'm doing white with a blue Yenko stripe on the Corvair. I'm only out $46 wallet dollars, so far. Time is another story.
Rick(wrench)
'62 Falcon Wagons (x2), Kellison J5, V8 Alfa GTam, Corvair Corsa:
www.rickwrench.com

User avatar
wallaka
VIP Member
Posts: 2503
Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 1:28 pm
Location: Ole Alabamy Towne

Post #7 by wallaka » Tue Apr 25, 2006 1:10 am

According to the guy on the other forum, pearls and metallics are a no-go because of the short length of time that they dry in. You gotta spray them or they'll "flash"-dry before you're halfway done with a roller.

This is for a very period-correct look. I can remember before they switched to base/clear and I like the look of a well-buffed single stage better. It may not be quite as shiny, but the colors are very rich. As a bonus, you can repair chips easily.
Down to 29 cylinders!
2006 Porsche Cayman H6, 1968 Mercury Monterey big block (390), 1967 F-100 240, 1965 Mercury Comet 404 (200), 2009 Triumph Street Triple

placid warrior

Post #8 by placid warrior » Tue Apr 25, 2006 2:19 am

if u want metallic just take some craft glitter and put it on the paint while its wet, then when the paint is dry just brush off the excess.....hehe.

User avatar
cfmustang
Registered User
Posts: 742
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 3:25 pm
Location: Cleveland, OH

Post #9 by cfmustang » Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:01 am

At the very least, when I replace my front fenders I am going to try this on one of the old fenders and see how it looks in person.

I'm not saying I would do this, but I am awfully curious.
-Chris

'66 Vintage Burgundy Mustang coupe
200 cid with .030 overbore and head milled .060"
Clifford dual outlet header through turbo mufflers.
Clifford Weber 2bbl adapter with a Weber 38/38 DGES
Classic Inlines 264 110* HSP cam
1.75 Intake & 1.50 Exhaust SI values (undercut and a 3 angle valve job)
Mallory Unilite and Flamethrower II coil
C-4 Automatic, stock converter.

placid warrior

Post #10 by placid warrior » Tue Apr 25, 2006 10:36 pm

I think i might try this out and if it is as durable as said it might be a replacement for acrylic enamel (Professionals please speak up if its still better to do acrylic enamel for whatever reasons..ie durability or whatever)...i usually find myself wetsanding and polishing anyways to get a really nice orange peel free shine.

crs93and66
Registered User
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 7:18 am
Location: fort wayne, IN.
Contact:

Post #11 by crs93and66 » Mon May 29, 2006 8:59 pm

where do you get this paint, cause I heard that termclad paint is not available in the US, but I would be interested in doing this I just don;t know what paint to use ?

User avatar
cfmustang
Registered User
Posts: 742
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 3:25 pm
Location: Cleveland, OH

Post #12 by cfmustang » Mon May 29, 2006 9:38 pm

According to posts later in the thread, that paint is the Canadian brand name for Rustolium.
-Chris

'66 Vintage Burgundy Mustang coupe
200 cid with .030 overbore and head milled .060"
Clifford dual outlet header through turbo mufflers.
Clifford Weber 2bbl adapter with a Weber 38/38 DGES
Classic Inlines 264 110* HSP cam
1.75 Intake & 1.50 Exhaust SI values (undercut and a 3 angle valve job)
Mallory Unilite and Flamethrower II coil
C-4 Automatic, stock converter.

User avatar
johnnyzoom
Registered User
Posts: 124
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 11:40 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

Post #13 by johnnyzoom » Mon May 29, 2006 10:17 pm

I've been working on this all weekend, lots of work but I think results depend on how much patience and how much effort you want to put into it (like anything else). I'm about to do final wetsand and polish, will post complete results including before shots in "eye candy" section here but here's pics after 3 coats and 1 wetsand:

Image

Image

Don't have closeups yet but I gotta say the pics are a little better looking than in person, I've got a lot of orange peel and some drips I didn't spend the time sanding out, but I'm way better off than what I started out with!

64falcon200

Post #14 by 64falcon200 » Mon May 29, 2006 10:40 pm

wow taht looks damn nice

Falcon62
VIP Member
Posts: 1570
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 6:43 pm
Location: Spangle, WA
Contact:

Post #15 by Falcon62 » Tue May 30, 2006 8:45 pm

I hope that paint on your trim is over tape. What a pain it will be to clean that off. :lol:
Phil, USAF Retired
'61 Futura 2dr
'62 Sports Futura, 200/C4
ASE Master Re-Certified Collision & Refinishing Technician

User avatar
johnnyzoom
Registered User
Posts: 124
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 11:40 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

Post #16 by johnnyzoom » Tue May 30, 2006 9:50 pm

Yeah it's tape, it came off easily considering it was about 95 degrees out...

Image

... But it's going to have to go on again, unless I can find a way to keep somebody 6 feet away from the car at all times, or only take it out at night, in which cases it looks great!

I have a lot of sanding and repainting ahead of me. I didn't wetsand enough or properly on mine, too many roll marks in the light on hood and trunk lid, sides aren't too bad. Color is actually darker royal blue, and it is nice and rich in general. I'll keep at it...

User avatar
johnnyzoom
Registered User
Posts: 124
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 11:40 pm
Location: Tampa, FL

Post #17 by johnnyzoom » Tue May 30, 2006 9:51 pm

Image

So here it is $75 and a bad sunburn later -

Image

Image

mustangsix2
Registered User
Posts: 74
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2004 2:01 pm
Location: Orlando, FL
Contact:

Post #18 by mustangsix2 » Wed May 31, 2006 5:04 pm

not too shabby for how little you spent. good work. 8)

also, i hope the sunburn gets better. sunscreen has become a life saver for me in florida :lol:

chazthephoenix

Post #19 by chazthephoenix » Thu Jun 01, 2006 9:09 am

not bad at all for such little work and money

with patience....which I dont have...it could turn out nice

User avatar
wallaka
VIP Member
Posts: 2503
Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 1:28 pm
Location: Ole Alabamy Towne

Post #20 by wallaka » Thu Jun 01, 2006 11:47 am

Not too shabby! At the least, it's a big improvement over what it was. I want to do it even more now.
Down to 29 cylinders!
2006 Porsche Cayman H6, 1968 Mercury Monterey big block (390), 1967 F-100 240, 1965 Mercury Comet 404 (200), 2009 Triumph Street Triple

mikeyo
Registered User
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 11:50 pm
Location: joshua, tx
Contact:

Post #21 by mikeyo » Thu Jun 01, 2006 10:37 pm

I think I got Saturday free....I have the doors and fenders off my stang.
I thing I will try just a fender, that really don't look bad at all for 75$
65 mustang coupe.
Doin' it one little step at a time.
Michael

Anlushac11
RC/TS Moderator
Posts: 1675
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 3:10 am
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana, USA

Post #22 by Anlushac11 » Thu Jun 08, 2006 10:14 pm

I know this is basically Rust-Oleum thinned with mineral spirits.

I want to try this on my red 1980 Mustang.

Anyone know what its effect would be on the enduraflex rubberized plastic nose?

Im thinking the plastic/rubber stuff and the mineral spirits wont play well together.
3.3L n C4 installed, working on wiring for Duraspark II, trans lines, fuel lines, carb linkage.

MC Abrams

Post #23 by MC Abrams » Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:51 pm

just curious if any body else has tried this?

User avatar
rickwrench
Registered User
Posts: 727
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 5:30 pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Contact:

Post #24 by rickwrench » Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:34 pm

Hi all, here's an update on the almost finished Corvair. All that's left is to buff the gloss back up, and reassemble the car. I used a little over two quarts of paint, total. Man, that was a LOT of wet sanding. Stinger stripe came out nice! Next car I do (probably the Alfa) will definitely be done in my garage with a roller.

Engine cover:

Image

Trunk:

Image

Whole car (Squire in the background, to make this a Ford post):

Image

It looked like this, two weeks ago:

Image

Rick(wrench)
'62 Falcon Wagons (x2), Kellison J5, V8 Alfa GTam, Corvair Corsa:
www.rickwrench.com

User avatar
addo
VIP Member
Posts: 10618
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 3:06 am
Location: Sydney, Australia

Post #25 by addo » Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:49 pm

Good work!

I was trying to find something about T-5 installs on your website the other day (and failed). Made me realise though, how much you have up - what a great asset it is, too. When you retire a site index may be in order!

Cheers, Adam.

User avatar
rickwrench
Registered User
Posts: 727
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 5:30 pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Contact:

Post #26 by rickwrench » Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:24 pm

Hey Addo,
Yeah, I know, it's:
"Here's a pic of my Ford flywheel...here's a pic of my Alfa pressure plate, they fit together... trust me..."
I -really- need to clean up the old site. A lot of the info there is kind of... half there, half assumed. Someday this winter (that would be SUMMER to you lucky Aussies) I'll sit down on a rainy, freezing cold day, and try to update all the pages with complete info that requires no (or maybe just minimal) guessing.
Rick
'62 Falcon Wagons (x2), Kellison J5, V8 Alfa GTam, Corvair Corsa:
www.rickwrench.com

User avatar
cfmustang
Registered User
Posts: 742
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 3:25 pm
Location: Cleveland, OH

Post #27 by cfmustang » Tue Oct 17, 2006 10:24 am

Rick,

You used the Rustoleum for that Corvair? :shock:

It looks fantastic!!!

You may have to do a more detailed post on your technique some time. That really came out nice!
-Chris

'66 Vintage Burgundy Mustang coupe
200 cid with .030 overbore and head milled .060"
Clifford dual outlet header through turbo mufflers.
Clifford Weber 2bbl adapter with a Weber 38/38 DGES
Classic Inlines 264 110* HSP cam
1.75 Intake & 1.50 Exhaust SI values (undercut and a 3 angle valve job)
Mallory Unilite and Flamethrower II coil
C-4 Automatic, stock converter.

User avatar
wallaka
VIP Member
Posts: 2503
Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 1:28 pm
Location: Ole Alabamy Towne

Post #28 by wallaka » Tue Oct 17, 2006 12:59 pm

We need more :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: here. That is a great job...even more pressure for me to try it.
Down to 29 cylinders!
2006 Porsche Cayman H6, 1968 Mercury Monterey big block (390), 1967 F-100 240, 1965 Mercury Comet 404 (200), 2009 Triumph Street Triple

User avatar
cfmustang
Registered User
Posts: 742
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 3:25 pm
Location: Cleveland, OH

Post #29 by cfmustang » Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:43 pm

Rick,

I just checked out your website and I see you have more details there. I will be very curious to see pictures after the final buff-out.

Just curious... Would this be a good short-term method to use? I had always planned to have the car professionally painted someday when the body work is done, but the cost was going to cause me to have a cheaper paint job or wait a couple of years to build up a paint fund.

I am thinking I could do this as a band-aid after I get the rest of the front end sheetmetal repaired/replaced and then wait a couple of years to build that paint budget (I am tired of having a multi-colored car). Would doing this cause problems for the painters down the road?
-Chris

'66 Vintage Burgundy Mustang coupe
200 cid with .030 overbore and head milled .060"
Clifford dual outlet header through turbo mufflers.
Clifford Weber 2bbl adapter with a Weber 38/38 DGES
Classic Inlines 264 110* HSP cam
1.75 Intake & 1.50 Exhaust SI values (undercut and a 3 angle valve job)
Mallory Unilite and Flamethrower II coil
C-4 Automatic, stock converter.

User avatar
wallaka
VIP Member
Posts: 2503
Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2005 1:28 pm
Location: Ole Alabamy Towne

Post #30 by wallaka » Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:08 pm

It's just paint...it should strip off like any other.
Down to 29 cylinders!
2006 Porsche Cayman H6, 1968 Mercury Monterey big block (390), 1967 F-100 240, 1965 Mercury Comet 404 (200), 2009 Triumph Street Triple

User avatar
rickwrench
Registered User
Posts: 727
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 5:30 pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Contact:

Post #31 by rickwrench » Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:57 pm

From what I've read on the moparts.com forum, there hasn't been much trouble removing (or just painting over) the cheap paint if it has been thinned properly. I thinned about 50/50 paint to mineral spirits. This made each layer, well, pretty darned thin! Each layer dries completely between coats when the paint is thin enough. It took 5 coats to get full coverage, and then 2 more for good measure. If you were to get impatient with the amount of coats it takes to get full coverage and roll the rustoleum on unthinned, you'd have a mess on your hands.
Unthinned rustoleum would probably take several weeks, per coat, to effectively dry, if at all. This is where all the warnings from pro paint guys are true. Unthinned, the stuff will gum and ball up when sanded, and just be a disaster in general. Unthinned, It would still come off with chemical strippers, no problem, but jeez what a mess.
Thinned and dry, you can sand it right off with no gumming or balling up.

The process and paint appealed to me for several reasons:
It's cheap
It requires minimal skill
There is almost no masking
No special equipment
When I hit cones (and I will), I can touch up any dings, very easily.

Just make sure you thin the paint, and let it get good and dry between coats and sanding. This time of year, getting two coats a day to dry will be iffy. It is what it is, a low budget paint job requiring very little money or equipment, and not much skill, but a lot of time and patience... and sanding.
I'm quite happy with my results now. We'll see what it looks like in a few years. I'm sure Rustoleum white will still be available in 2010, though.
Rick(wrench)
'62 Falcon Wagons (x2), Kellison J5, V8 Alfa GTam, Corvair Corsa:
www.rickwrench.com

User avatar
cfmustang
Registered User
Posts: 742
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 3:25 pm
Location: Cleveland, OH

Post #32 by cfmustang » Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:40 pm

I don't know if I'll actually do it, but the idea does fascinate me... or the cheapskate in me.

Don't get me wrong, I would love to have a body shop give my car the works and then put a $5000 paint job on it, but the practical side of me then imagines the stroke I would have when the first stone chip appears.

IF I am to do this, I would study that 40 something page thread. I have skimmed it and it is full of good lessons learned. Next, it wouldn't be till next Summer. I still have bodywork to get done (I need to hang the new fenders and valence panel and I need new shock towers, some front frame rail patching and maybe cowl repairs).

Honestly though, I am afraid that the final outcome will not meet my expectations. I am kind of a perfectionist and have owned this car for 19 years and have tried to to skimp anywhere whenever possible. I would hate to put all this time and effort into it and then have a orange peel covered mess. I will have to see what the results look like in person to truly convince me.

What I plan to do is save the best of the two fenders (and they are both pretty bad) and try it as though I was painting the actual car (all the way to polishing with Porter Cable 7424 6" Orbital Polisher and some pro-grade polish). If it looks good...who knows.
-Chris

'66 Vintage Burgundy Mustang coupe
200 cid with .030 overbore and head milled .060"
Clifford dual outlet header through turbo mufflers.
Clifford Weber 2bbl adapter with a Weber 38/38 DGES
Classic Inlines 264 110* HSP cam
1.75 Intake & 1.50 Exhaust SI values (undercut and a 3 angle valve job)
Mallory Unilite and Flamethrower II coil
C-4 Automatic, stock converter.

User avatar
cfmustang
Registered User
Posts: 742
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 3:25 pm
Location: Cleveland, OH

Post #33 by cfmustang » Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:46 pm

Oh yeah, there is one other problem too.

Inside the cowl, the paint has started peeling/flaking like crazy. Since the cowl cover is not removable... how would I clean up the old flaking paint and then get new paint down there?

Also, can you get this stuff custom mixed to match colors? I would like to keep the car as close to Vintage Burgundy as possible....
-Chris

'66 Vintage Burgundy Mustang coupe
200 cid with .030 overbore and head milled .060"
Clifford dual outlet header through turbo mufflers.
Clifford Weber 2bbl adapter with a Weber 38/38 DGES
Classic Inlines 264 110* HSP cam
1.75 Intake & 1.50 Exhaust SI values (undercut and a 3 angle valve job)
Mallory Unilite and Flamethrower II coil
C-4 Automatic, stock converter.

User avatar
addo
VIP Member
Posts: 10618
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 3:06 am
Location: Sydney, Australia

Post #34 by addo » Wed Oct 18, 2006 6:58 pm

I'd be highly surprised if it can't be tinted with regular enamel tinters.

As to the inner cowl - always a good one. No real subsitute for patience.

User avatar
rickwrench
Registered User
Posts: 727
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 5:30 pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Contact:

Post #35 by rickwrench » Wed Oct 18, 2006 8:08 pm

Also, can you get this stuff custom mixed to match colors? I would like to keep the car as close to Vintage Burgundy as possible....


In CA, Rustoleum quarts are available in only six or seven basic colors.
Before you do this, you should really sit down for a few hours and read the moparts forum thread, in 2 pieces, on the subject (link in first post). It's 80+ pages and much is rehashing, but it contains info, experiments, and results from dozens that have tried this. With good and bad results.
I really wasn't expecting much, other than a car that -wasn't- 99 different colors joined together by surface rust. Something I could park on the street without embarrassment. I was mildy surprised at the hood test, and even more so by the finished car. I think it turned out great. I did use white, which, according to the moparts thread, is the easiest color to do. Thin with mineral spirits, no matter what the can says.
Your results may vary.
Rick(wrench)
'62 Falcon Wagons (x2), Kellison J5, V8 Alfa GTam, Corvair Corsa:
www.rickwrench.com

mustangsix2
Registered User
Posts: 74
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2004 2:01 pm
Location: Orlando, FL
Contact:

Post #36 by mustangsix2 » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:12 pm

most inner cowls have overspray in there. that's about it. i don't think they were painted originally other than that. :?

User avatar
addo
VIP Member
Posts: 10618
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 3:06 am
Location: Sydney, Australia

Post #37 by addo » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:16 pm

That's been my impression; just the factory primer that was applied prior to panels being spotwelded together, and any overspray on top of that.

User avatar
cfmustang
Registered User
Posts: 742
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 3:25 pm
Location: Cleveland, OH

Post #38 by cfmustang » Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:27 pm

I was planning on seriously studing that post. I have skimmed most of it at least twice (once a few months ago, then again in the last day or two) and your right, there is a lot of hard earned knowledge and experience mixed in with a lot of repetition.

I am guessing I will have to do some sort of media blast to clean the flaking (If I have time tomorrow, I'll take a picture). Then, perhaps I could mix some up and use a Preval to spray down into the cowl vent to protect the area...
-Chris

'66 Vintage Burgundy Mustang coupe
200 cid with .030 overbore and head milled .060"
Clifford dual outlet header through turbo mufflers.
Clifford Weber 2bbl adapter with a Weber 38/38 DGES
Classic Inlines 264 110* HSP cam
1.75 Intake & 1.50 Exhaust SI values (undercut and a 3 angle valve job)
Mallory Unilite and Flamethrower II coil
C-4 Automatic, stock converter.

User avatar
rickwrench
Registered User
Posts: 727
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 5:30 pm
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Contact:

Post #39 by rickwrench » Sat Oct 21, 2006 1:39 am

I buffed out the Corvair today. It came out very glossy. I also started putting it back together. 3rd pic down has Ford six content.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Rick(wrench)
'62 Falcon Wagons (x2), Kellison J5, V8 Alfa GTam, Corvair Corsa:
www.rickwrench.com

User avatar
addo
VIP Member
Posts: 10618
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 3:06 am
Location: Sydney, Australia

Post #40 by addo » Sat Oct 21, 2006 6:35 am

Rick, I'm direct linking to your paint page for another forum's edification. I'll also provide the main link.

lightnin-boy
Registered User
Posts: 143
Joined: Fri Nov 29, 2002 7:10 pm
Location: PEI Canada
Contact:

another paint suggestion

Post #41 by lightnin-boy » Sat Oct 21, 2006 8:01 am

Let me start by saying I painted a BroncoII 5 years ago or so using this method and the results were quite good. The only problem I had is that Tremclad paint itself is not very hard and it's fade resistance is very poor. I built a boat a couple of years ago and I painted it with a roller and brush using Interlux brightsides polyurethane http://www.mermaidmarine.com/index.cfm?CFID=21104838&CFTOKEN=26632994&do=detail&productID=8921120 . This stuff is expensive ($40 CDN a quart) but the results were incredible. It really looked like I had sprayed it. The stuff is tough, I'm on my second season and it still hanging in there hard and shiny. So... I'm going to take a run at my 95 Honda Civic beater with it. I'll post my experiences... Here is what it looks like on the boat..

Kirk

Image

User avatar
cfmustang
Registered User
Posts: 742
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 3:25 pm
Location: Cleveland, OH

Post #42 by cfmustang » Sat Oct 21, 2006 4:36 pm

:shock:

Rick, that looks amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-Chris

'66 Vintage Burgundy Mustang coupe
200 cid with .030 overbore and head milled .060"
Clifford dual outlet header through turbo mufflers.
Clifford Weber 2bbl adapter with a Weber 38/38 DGES
Classic Inlines 264 110* HSP cam
1.75 Intake & 1.50 Exhaust SI values (undercut and a 3 angle valve job)
Mallory Unilite and Flamethrower II coil
C-4 Automatic, stock converter.

User avatar
cfmustang
Registered User
Posts: 742
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 3:25 pm
Location: Cleveland, OH

Post #43 by cfmustang » Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:02 am

Wow.

I spent a couple of hours last weekend reading the whole post (I didn't even realize there was a part II till then) and whew!

It is amazing the difference you saw from car to car. I guess it comes down to prep and patience. It seems the people with all the problems were not mixing it thin enough, waiting enough time between coats or wet sanding between coats properly.

I am thoroughly convinced that I will try a fender at the least. Now, I just have to decide between the Interlux Brightside paint (marine) or Rustoleum as well as the color issue.

It seems like the only way to get custom colors is to mix different shades of existing paints. The only problem is that, for example, to get dark red you do not mix red and black. There is some other combination. I am thinking to get a Burgundy at least close to my color will take experimentation (red and blue?).
-Chris

'66 Vintage Burgundy Mustang coupe
200 cid with .030 overbore and head milled .060"
Clifford dual outlet header through turbo mufflers.
Clifford Weber 2bbl adapter with a Weber 38/38 DGES
Classic Inlines 264 110* HSP cam
1.75 Intake & 1.50 Exhaust SI values (undercut and a 3 angle valve job)
Mallory Unilite and Flamethrower II coil
C-4 Automatic, stock converter.

User avatar
FLSHBCK
Registered User
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 5:32 pm
Location: McHenry, IL USA

Post #44 by FLSHBCK » Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:37 am

"It seems like the only way to get custom colors is to mix different shades of existing paints. The only problem is that, for example, to get dark red you do not mix red and black. There is some other combination. I am thinking to get a Burgundy at least close to my color will take experimentation (red and blue?)."

Maybe take a trip down to your local home improvement store's paint department. Find a paint chip close to what color you want and ask if they can tell you what quantities and colors of tints make that color. Might be a good starting place.
'65 Mustang Hardtop 200, C4: Rust repair in progress
Image

'12 Malibu LT3 - Wow; there are NO aftermarket parts for this thing
'04 Jeep Wrangler X - 4.0L I-6; stock

User avatar
cfmustang
Registered User
Posts: 742
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 3:25 pm
Location: Cleveland, OH

Post #45 by cfmustang » Thu Nov 02, 2006 10:29 am

Not a bad idea. Heck, I wouldn't have even known that red and black make brown if someone wouldn't have mentioned it in the mega-post...
-Chris

'66 Vintage Burgundy Mustang coupe
200 cid with .030 overbore and head milled .060"
Clifford dual outlet header through turbo mufflers.
Clifford Weber 2bbl adapter with a Weber 38/38 DGES
Classic Inlines 264 110* HSP cam
1.75 Intake & 1.50 Exhaust SI values (undercut and a 3 angle valve job)
Mallory Unilite and Flamethrower II coil
C-4 Automatic, stock converter.

falconfsc200

Post #46 by falconfsc200 » Sat Nov 04, 2006 3:25 pm

I have used rustoleum on a couple cars, granted i opted to use an HVLP spray gun instead of the rollers, simply because i have one.
Metallics are possible. Use rustoleum "aluminum" color. Did a VW Fox that way. Any color you can dream of is also possible.
I have 24 dollars in materials for the paint on my neon, the Fox was 32 bucks all told. I used sail blue, carnival red, black, and aluminum to get a color that almost exactly matched the original color in the trunk of the car.

I apologize for the terrible pics, my camera isn't the greatest.
Image
Image
Image
Image

kirkallen143
Registered User
Posts: 633
Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2003 1:21 pm
Location: Navasota, Texas

Post #47 by kirkallen143 » Wed Nov 15, 2006 10:45 am

Image
Image


Just sliding in here...that is what my bronco is painted with, Rustoleum.

I sprayed the fenders/body/hood w/ a "high volume/low pressure" sprayer, but ended up rolling the doors ('cause I got them at a later date). It is only about 2-3 coats with no sanding inbetween.

I will let you know this, the tint is different from the gallons/pints cans than the rattle/spray cans. So you either use a rattle can or use the gallon/pint cans, I found out the hard way trying to touch-up my hood one time.

To roll, you can use an 1/8" nap (like for polys/glues) or the dense foam ones. Stay with the smaller roller widths, easier around trim and metal edges/curves, etc...

But the best part is touch-up on scratches, dings, etc... almost can not be noticed when done w/ Rustoleum (well, that's while you are cruising down the highway or looking at the paint from far away). No really, touch up is a snap, and it blends well.

Poor-man's high dollar paint job!

Kirk

Zorm
Registered User
Posts: 139
Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 1:36 pm
Location: Pensacola, Fl

Post #48 by Zorm » Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:04 pm

:shock: :D :idea: :shock: :shock:
66 stang coupe, 200 6cyl
71 Ford F-250 camper special
83 Cherokee(last big one), 4.7 6cyl stroker

He guides my path, forgives me when I stray and lights my life

User avatar
x21
Registered User
Posts: 356
Joined: Sun Jan 05, 2003 11:16 pm
Location: Back in FL!
Contact:

Post #49 by x21 » Sat Dec 23, 2006 6:44 pm

Trying this right now on the LX... paint looked a bit beat up ever since i returned from korea. I figure at the very least i can get the car a consistent shade of black now :D
So far it looks half decent- cant tell till tomorrow when the sunlight hits it.

User avatar
x21
Registered User
Posts: 356
Joined: Sun Jan 05, 2003 11:16 pm
Location: Back in FL!
Contact:

Post #50 by x21 » Sun Dec 24, 2006 2:19 pm

Ok, gave it a go and here's what I managed to get-

http://user.gru.net/gilmetyf/pj/pj.htm

results varied in some places- some parts came out better than others, but then again, i could have actually prepped better. :oops:

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest