$50 paint job

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johnnyzoom
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Post #101 by johnnyzoom » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:19 pm

Here's my 60 Rambler, 196 i6. 3rd (and probably last for a while) car painted with this method in a year. Used Rustoleum this time, wanted to saturate the metal for protection. Did one coat a day instead of two, and let it really bake in the sun.


Image

Image

Before picture is August 2006, after is current, just in time for surfing. Replaced cooling system, brakes (converted to dual MC), shocks, spun wheel hub; rebuilt generator/electrical ( thank you -ADDO- and -LAZY JW- ) added Sunpro guages to watch everything. Engine well kept 60k, didn't even have to mess with timing. Still needs a few more coats and wetsand/polish, put trim on, and some minor interior stuff.

Image

Image
- 64 Comet 404, 200 i6, automatic, daily driver

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Stormin' Norman
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Post #102 by Stormin' Norman » Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:10 pm

Sweet ride! :D
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.
My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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wallaka
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Post #103 by wallaka » Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:39 pm

johnnyzoom wrote:Here's my 60 Rambler, 196 i6. 3rd (and probably last for a while) car painted with this method in a year. Used Rustoleum this time, wanted to saturate the metal for protection. Did one coat a day instead of two, and let it really bake in the sun.


[img ]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/johnnyzoom/26_3-1.jpg[/img]

[img ]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/johnnyzoom/60RamblerNewPaint.jpg[/img]

Before picture is August 2006, after is current, just in time for surfing. Replaced cooling system, brakes (converted to dual MC), shocks, spun wheel hub; rebuilt generator/electrical ( thank you -ADDO- and -LAZY JW- ) added Sunpro guages to watch everything. Engine well kept 60k, didn't even have to mess with timing. Still needs a few more coats and wetsand/polish, put trim on, and some minor interior stuff.

[img ]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/johnnyzoom/enginecompbefore.jpg[/img]

[img ]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/johnnyzoom/ram bcompartment1.jpg[/img]


Beautiful.
Down to 29 cylinders!
2006 Porsche Cayman H6, 1968 Mercury Monterey big block (390), 1967 F-100 240, 1965 Mercury Comet 404 (200), 2009 Triumph Street Triple

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LaGrasta
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Post #104 by LaGrasta » Tue Jun 05, 2007 11:56 am

I just got the new hot rod. It has an entire how-to ont eh $50 paint job. They must read this forum, they used a Falcon for the story. :lol:
1963 1/2 Falcon 170/C4/8" (alt, a/c, Petronix/42v coil/8mm wires, 16" electric fan, electric fuel pump, Holley 1940, K&N Harley air filter, power dual m/c, 11" disc, 3" drop, Shelby drop, white tuck/roll, Moon steering wheel, '59 Caddy tail lights, fishtail exhaust tip, shaved trim, handles, cowl, fuel, dash, 4" radius trunk/door corners, power windows, 600w iPod system)

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johnnyzoom
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Post #105 by johnnyzoom » Tue Jun 05, 2007 3:03 pm

Thanks for the compliments.

Wallaka - Did you ever go further with this on your Comet?
- 64 Comet 404, 200 i6, automatic, daily driver

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Post #106 by wallaka » Tue Jun 05, 2007 6:35 pm

Not yet--I was on the road for two months, and I left right in the middle of an engine/tranny rebuild. I had a rod bearing failure and the tranny's been leaking since I got it, figured I'd go ahead and get it done right.

I should have the powertrain installed this weekend though (crossing my fingers), and I'll start back on the paint. The one door still looks pretty good even without buffing. I did add about two or three coats more after the pictures.
Down to 29 cylinders!
2006 Porsche Cayman H6, 1968 Mercury Monterey big block (390), 1967 F-100 240, 1965 Mercury Comet 404 (200), 2009 Triumph Street Triple

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johnnyzoom
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Post #107 by johnnyzoom » Tue Jun 05, 2007 10:29 pm

I just got the new hot rod. It has an entire how-to ont eh $50 paint job. They must read this forum, they used a Falcon for the story.


Yeah I picked that up today. It kills me that they just happen to have a $200 Falcon laying around to try a paint job on, one man's junk is another man's treasure indeed.


I should have the powertrain installed this weekend though (crossing my fingers)


Hope it works out, the world needs Comets on the road!
- 64 Comet 404, 200 i6, automatic, daily driver

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Stormin' Norman
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Post #108 by Stormin' Norman » Sat Jun 23, 2007 9:36 am

This might cheer you up! NOS Falcon and Comet Body parts:
:wink: http://www.nwfalcon.com/index.html
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Stormin' Norman
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Post #109 by Stormin' Norman » Sat Jun 23, 2007 9:47 am

I had to rebuild my Mexican Paint Booth. The storms from the Gulf Of Mexico are running right up into our Central Provinces with 80 MPH winds, Tornados, AND RAIN!!! We get a squirt or up to an inch at a time, every evening!

Doors come off today to cleanup the frames and the door shells.

I found original Glass Run strips for a Ford F-250 -4-door pickup that will fir in my rear wagon doors at: http://www.npdlink.com in their 79 and earlier catalog (window internals).

Also found the right way to reinstall those Pem Nuts that hold down the roof rack:
The fasteners are sometimes called weld-nuts, but when I worked in the Aircraft industry I think we called them "Pem nuts" or "Rivet nuts"
http://www.pemnet.com/

They've got a manual tool that can be 'fabbed up' and a how-to:
Here's some related detail first:
http://www.pemnet.com/design_info/ar.../One_Side.html

Here's the 'repair' tools (not in production line):
http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_prod...las/tools.html

The Atlas Hex tool looks easy enough to make up:
http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_prod...Operation.html

And here's a demo using the air-gun version:
http://www.pemnet.com/design_info/at...emo/index.html

Here's the distributor page:
http://www.pemnet.com/reps_and_distributors/

And there's one right in my town!
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #110 by FLSHBCK » Sat Jun 23, 2007 10:33 am

I've seen where a lot of distributors for this sort of thing will only sell to companies - if you run into that, I know McMaster-Carr sell this type of fastener http://www.mcmaster.com and will ship pretty much anywhere...
'65 Mustang Hardtop 200, C4: Rust repair in progress
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Stormin' Norman
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Post #111 by Stormin' Norman » Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:30 am

Thanks, good to know! :D
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #112 by BamaPaul » Thu Sep 20, 2007 4:26 pm

Why isnt this a sticky??? It has some great info in it and is bookmarked (also Mopar link bookmarked for the 4 day quest of reading all those post) for when I get the B@LLS to try it on my truck.-Paul
87 F150 4spdW/OD 3.55 gears 179k on engine and tranny
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Stormin' Norman
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Post #113 by Stormin' Norman » Thu Sep 20, 2007 8:53 pm

Why isnt this a sticky??? It has some great info in it and is bookmarked (also Mopar link bookmarked for the 4 day quest of reading all those post) for when I get the B@LLS to try it on my truck.-Paul


Paul it probably shouldn't be a Sticky, because there's already some great stickies on Autobody work, and the site is really about engines and power trains. It has been gracious of the moderators to let me and others post our efforts and details, though.

Our weather is so changing here, from F5 Tornadoes to unpredictable weather, that I've had to dance between raindrops to press on. But I'm on the last body prep work now and as long as temperatures are above 45F (10C), this rust paint goes on. Fortunately we're forecasting another few weeks of decent days, so I should be finished before the end of the month. When I get there (in real paint mode) I'll take pics and post. I like how it works so far though. :D
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #114 by wallaka » Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:57 pm

I second the sticky nomination. It's a solid DIY paint job that looks pretty good, that is good enough for me. Heck, this is the paint and body section, so the best posts should be stickied so they are easy to find.
Down to 29 cylinders!
2006 Porsche Cayman H6, 1968 Mercury Monterey big block (390), 1967 F-100 240, 1965 Mercury Comet 404 (200), 2009 Triumph Street Triple

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Post #115 by Stormin' Norman » Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:20 am

wallaka wrote:I second the sticky nomination. It's a solid DIY paint job that looks pretty good, that is good enough for me. Heck, this is the paint and body section, so the best posts should be stickied so they are easy to find.


About the only extra factor I could add to the roller painting process is the control of mixing/adjusting the paint to thinners ratio for high humidity regions. Central Canada runs between 38% to 100%. I've been watching ours intensely since Spring Thaw in June and experimenting on bits and pieces each month while restoring parts and components of the restoration and tracking the humidity ranges and temperatures with mixture tests in an Excel Spreadsheet. Some friends in California and Arizona haven't had these humidity issues but the heat ranges forced them to add or reduce the ratios.

But the moparts.org threads have done a good job.

I worked with another forum site to reduce my huge 'summaries' of the moparts.org pages from almost 90 megabytes to 8 Word documents. Section 2 has the guts of the technique from prepping to polishing, written by the guy who started the moparts.org thread:

http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forum ... php?p=2871

I started it over there because I've got a stationwagon and figured other wagon owners might want to see how I've handled the issues.

http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forum ... .php?t=711

My spreadsheet is there as well and a few sedgeways to other issues.
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

stiennen

Post #116 by stiennen » Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:43 pm

must...paint car...now! Stupid winter! I am gonna do my body work over the winter and start a rollin on the paint come spring. This is the coolest thread I have ever read.

Darrell

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Post #117 by Stormin' Norman » Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:57 pm

Darrell, I just finished all the rolling - 8 coats. not counting the first two that I screwed up with bubbles that I thought would flatten. I re-read the document copies of the moparts.org thread and did it right from then on.

See page 5 for the documents and page 18 for the cost of materials and near final pics. I also posted various mistakes I made and corrections.

What's left are final pictures of the car with all its windows and trim back on, and that should be later this week. I'm really impressed at how good it came out.

Here's page 5:
http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forum ... 711&page=5

and Page 18:
http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forum ... 11&page=18
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

stiennen

Post #118 by stiennen » Thu Nov 01, 2007 3:34 pm

Image

Will the fiberglass take the paint the same? Or should I spray the fiberglass and roll the body?

Darrell

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Stormin' Norman
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Post #119 by Stormin' Norman » Thu Nov 01, 2007 10:57 pm

Fibreglass can be rolled too. I did the plastic cowl vent cover and bumper extensions. They're made of ABS/PVC and flexible and they don't even crack like the lacquer does. :D
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #120 by hasa68mustang » Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:30 am

I dont see why not on the fiberglass question... make sure theres a primer underneath and it should be just like painting metal with a primer under it.
Image
According to Matt our cars will be elevnty billion times faster than all of yours because our carbs flow 500cfm!!!!

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Post #121 by Stormin' Norman » Thu Jan 03, 2008 10:16 am

Believe it or not, we're getting a warm spell up here this week, in the Northern Freezer! These pictures were taken on November 4, 2007, thanks to JackFish:

From November 4, 2007:

Image Image

I did the Division Bar Glass runs with flocked material because I couldn't get the mylar units, after restoring the division bars:
Image

Here's some pics from December 11, 2007 with the Mexican Tarp Garage taken down, and all the trim back on.

Image Image Image

Huge Thanks to JackFish for the Pics. This year I'll get my own Camera.
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #122 by Zypher » Thu Jan 03, 2008 10:32 pm

Haha took me a while to find this but Hot Rod magazine did near this same thing and it looks fantastic I don't think they have the full article I couldn't find it but here are pictures with the descriptions. Can help a lot of people like me that need very specific details. And it's a falcon for some of you guys!

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body ... to_01.html

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Post #123 by 67_6cyl » Sat Jan 05, 2008 8:12 pm

I've decided to paint my car this way - we used to do simpler versions of this on restored tractors on the farm for winter projects. Never thought to use it on a car. It looked a little rougher than all the pictures I've seen so far, but we didn't thin it much and stopped sanding after 600grit. Also, I spent some time working for a loader manufacturer and we used a custom colour industrial Tremclad - basically the same stuff you can buy at Crappy Tire - it stood up well in underground mines.

Question:
I've heard that some of the custom paint guys layer their paint in different colours to get the final colour to really stand out. For example - to get a real kick-in-the-pants (POW!!!) deep red, they start with a couple of coats of bright yellow - apparently it adds depth??? Is this an urban legend or is it true? Is there some website or some guide out there that substantiates this and provides hints/tricks for colour combos or blending standard colours?
Finally there

67 Mustang, engine complete, steering, Scarebird disks, cold barn, DUI ignition, decked block, 206CompCam, modified log, 6-1 headers. On the road.

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Post #124 by 67_6cyl » Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:44 am

The way this has taken off is hillarious. Check this out:

http://rolledon.com/
Finally there

67 Mustang, engine complete, steering, Scarebird disks, cold barn, DUI ignition, decked block, 206CompCam, modified log, 6-1 headers. On the road.

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Post #125 by JOHN G » Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:48 am

Some of those look really good-better than some sprayed on jobs I have seen over the years! I love the fact that do-it-youselfers still exist in the rawest form-that is what hotrodding is all about! These guys will always earn my respect on the street because of their efforts, not their checkbooks.
66 COMET 2 DR,200 W/3 WEBERS,OFFY INTAKE,264 CAM,DUAL OUTLET HEADER,3.00 DIFF

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Post #126 by 67_6cyl » Sun Jan 06, 2008 4:17 pm

I totally agree. And what have you got to lose? Take your chances at Maaco, or spend $5k+. The first quote on a paint job I got was from a custom shop: A "vintage restoration" for $13,500. No thanks - I'd rather get EFI, turbocharge, aluminum head etc etc.

That thread I've referenced above describes a method of clear-coating and putting metallic flake in it to add depth to the colour. Not sure how it stands up, but I believe the clear coat he references is a marine grade so it should be pretty tough.
Finally there

67 Mustang, engine complete, steering, Scarebird disks, cold barn, DUI ignition, decked block, 206CompCam, modified log, 6-1 headers. On the road.

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Post #127 by Tim10770 » Thu Mar 13, 2008 1:00 am

i'm leaning towards this method as well even have a colour in mind bright green brother 8)
1983 ford fairmont futura 3.3 I-6

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Post #128 by Tim10770 » Tue Apr 01, 2008 11:27 pm

wow this post stalled guess everyones waiting for summer.
1983 ford fairmont futura 3.3 I-6

new_falcon_owner

Post #129 by new_falcon_owner » Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:04 am

whats the best mineral spirit to use??? i am very curious,,, might do a hood to see.

rick

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Post #130 by Tim10770 » Mon May 05, 2008 11:33 pm

i don't believe one brand is any better just needs to be 100% mineral spirits.
1983 ford fairmont futura 3.3 I-6

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Post #131 by donald_harby » Sat Mar 21, 2009 10:27 am

Tractor supply company has Valspar tractor and implement enamel and hardener. They also have primer. This is good and it if you use the hardener it dries fast and hard and has a very high gloss. I haven't done a car but some tractor parts and it works great. I use naptha instead of mineral spirits too.

http://www.tractorsupply.com[/url]

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Post #132 by Abandoned67 » Sat Mar 21, 2009 1:15 pm

Has anyone else tried this lately?

Hopefully I will be doing it this summer.
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Post #133 by Gene 64 2dr » Mon Mar 23, 2009 12:37 am

Frank,

Yes I tried this at the end of last year and as soon as it gets little around here I plan on finishing the job. I’m not that far from you. Maybe when I get done with mine I can show you.

First of all how much TIME and PATIENCE do you have?
I first tried it out on my hood inside. It took a lot of trial and error to get the mix right first, then just how much to put on at a time. I recommend you try first on a flat panel like the hood where you can keep it level. The paint won’t run as bad as it will on a vertical one.
Don’t use the high-density yellow rollers that Home Depot has they aren’t dense enough and you get to many bubbles. I find the white ones that Sears hardware has worked best for me.
One thing I did for the final three or four coats was to thin the paint more and wipe it on with a soft clean rag. This is how I put urethane on furniture that I’m finishing and it seems to work just as well here to. You avoid the bubbles but end up with streaks the polish out easier.
I did make one huge mistake at first. Don’t wipe down the area with a rag with mineral spirits to clean it before you paint. (rookie mistake, I learned the hard way)

I’ve told people that I was painting my car with a roller and that you would be surprised on how well it was coming out and the looks you get are great. You get some great responses. I just keep some pictures with me and when I show them they cant believe it.

Here is a link to some of the pics that I took of my hood. http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj90/falcon2656/

Did I mention about how much TIME it takes to get it to look good?

Gene

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Post #134 by ZC-Cruiser » Fri Mar 27, 2009 5:15 pm

Rustoleum does not appear to be available in Australia - I'm wondering if Wattyl KillRust Would work?

It's labeled as Epoxy Enamel so it should be strong and flexible...

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Re: $50 paint job

Post #135 by Anlushac11 » Sun May 24, 2009 2:56 am

I think your Rust Olieum painted LX looks better than my 91 LX convertible in silver.

Did you have any problems with the mineral oil paint mix on the plastic nose?
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Re: $50 paint job

Post #136 by JOHN G » Sat May 30, 2009 12:22 am

Just did the centers of my American Racing wheels and sprayed it with my cheapo Harbor Freight gun so I wouldn't gum up my good guns. I am very happy with how it came out especially since it was cheap paint and equipment.
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Re: $50 paint job

Post #137 by jlopes » Tue Jul 14, 2009 7:33 pm

Since I have 2 kids to put through college, I thought the $3000 for a "professional" paint job would be best spent else where... So here is my roller paint job. I am probably closer to $200 but still a good deal.

Here is where I started from
Image

and here is where I currently am
Image
Image
Image

I still have a couple of coats to go and I am going to attempt to add pearl to the paint. I have tested rolling pearl on a spare fender I have and it looks pretty good.

Here is a link to the album for those who would like to see more pictures.
http://picasaweb.google.com/jl2odotcom/RollerPaintingThePony02?feat=directlink

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Re: $50 paint job

Post #138 by Stealth Bummer » Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:13 pm

What if it was sprayed on with a turbine spray system? I would think it would eliminate the roller marks and bubbles, and make the sanding a bit easier. Has anybody tried it?
1959 F100, Short-wide box, big back window, IFS, 300/C4 trans (work in progress)
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Re: $50 paint job

Post #139 by cobraguy » Tue Sep 08, 2009 4:18 pm

I sprayed my Ranchero last Year. I used a Harbor Freight $20 gravity gun the mix I used was around 50/50 paint/spirits had run problems. A year later the Rustoleum has faded baddly on all the direct sun exposed surfaces and only slightly on the shady areas. I think it still looks better than 3 shades of primer and rust.
62 Falcon 2 dr sedan 250/C4 8" "Magoo"
63 Ranchero 200/SROD DS II, Weber "Barney" SOLD

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Re: $50 paint job

Post #140 by Stealth Bummer » Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:07 pm

What color did you use? Some are more prone to fading than others.
1959 F100, Short-wide box, big back window, IFS, 300/C4 trans (work in progress)

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Re: $50 paint job

Post #141 by rickwrench » Sat Sep 12, 2009 3:40 pm

I added a "3 years later" $50 paintjob update on my site.

http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint-3years.html

Rick(wrench)
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Re: $50 paint job

Post #142 by Army of Six » Wed May 12, 2010 10:38 pm

hey guys , just wanted to share my "painting" experiences with you guys. here is a link to my roller paint job on my old econoline. I am real pleased with the out come....(but not too happy with my body work lol)

http://www.ford-econoline.com/forum/vie ... ?p=654#654

Cheers

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Re: $50 paint job

Post #143 by rickwrench » Wed Oct 06, 2010 11:20 pm

Four years on mine, so far, and counting...
No "chalking", no fading, still glossy, though it could probably use a good waxing (last time I waxed it was spring '09).
I've got another Falcon wagon to paint in the next few months, probably yellow with a white roof.

http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint-4years.html

Rick(wrench)
'62 Falcon Wagons (x2), Kellison J5, V8 Alfa GTam, Corvair Corsa:
www.rickwrench.com

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dudeigota66
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Re: $50 paint job

Post #144 by dudeigota66 » Sat May 14, 2011 9:07 pm

AMAZAZING!!! :shock: :shock: :hmmm:
66 Mustang with 68 200ci, Pertronix, All Else stock and C4- "Karen"

thesameguy
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Re: $50 paint job

Post #145 by thesameguy » Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:31 pm

I saw Rick's car a couple years ago (2009?) and it did look good, great even. Inspired me to do some touch-up work on my '67 Fleetwood using the same process, and the results were totally satisfying. $1000 worth of work from a pro became $25 worth of work at home. Net result was completely worth the savings.

I've been itching to proceed on my Falcon, but there is *so much* labor involved I'm not quite sure I want to tackle a whole car. :)

64falcon
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Re: $50 paint job

Post #146 by 64falcon » Tue Dec 25, 2012 7:33 pm

when prepping to paint with the rustolium, how fine of grit did yall sand the surface to befores starting?

BIG 6 farmer
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Re: $50 paint job

Post #147 by BIG 6 farmer » Wed Jan 09, 2013 12:45 am

Tractor paint, 28 dollars a gallon @ Farm Supply stores.( TSC, QC & others) Hardener additive, 16. Works good, but ya only get tractor colors. Ok , if ya like red.
83 F 150 SB 4x4 300 six NP 4speed - 89 F 150 300 six Turbo (in works) - 1950 IHC L162 (1&1/2 ton?) - 87 & 88 T-Bird Turbo Coupes - 2000 Triumph Tiger , 76 Honda GL 1000 , & other toys and parts (& junk) - My Gal ? Shes gone... New rule, keep the old junk. Trade the women in as needed !!!

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ZC-Cruiser
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Re: $50 paint job

Post #148 by ZC-Cruiser » Wed Jan 09, 2013 12:58 am

BIG 6 farmer wrote:Tractor paint, 28 dollars a gallon @ Farm Supply stores.( TSC, QC & others) Hardener additive, 16. Works good, but ya only get tractor colors. Ok , if ya like red.

Or green...

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CoupeBoy
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Re: $50 paint job

Post #149 by CoupeBoy » Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:35 am

Completely unrelated but since this just came up locally on my craigslist.. There's a lot that can be done with 'tractor' colors...
http://fargo.craigslist.org/cto/3530105018.html
For sale 1954 Ford F350 1 ton pickup project truck
the unit was taken down to the frame and has had the parts all re-done by a body shop.
For John Deere lovers this is great parade machine
new brakes on all 4 wheels, new king pins, clutch is in great shape

the engine is a reman 239 V-8 OHV firs year for the OHV
it has a 4 speed transmission with a 9ft box not flat bed.
just needs someone to put it back together. I just dont have the time.
call Jeff for details
218-790-4844

Shows that this truck went from
JDFord (5).jpg

To this (claims it was a professional paint job though)
JDFord (2).jpg

JDFord (3).jpg

JDFord (4).jpg

JDFord (6).jpg

JDFord (8).jpg


FWIW, I have a Farmall 400, so there is no bias...
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Boedy1
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Re: $50 paint job

Post #150 by Boedy1 » Wed Sep 04, 2013 9:34 am

Hey fellas,

I admire you all and your willingness to do what it takes when working within a budget. I think this idea is great and one fella said it best with his post when he said, "what have you got to loose?" Really, if you don't have the equipment or the budget, I say do a lot of good research, plan out the job with as much dedication and effort as you can muster and then, Go For It! I hate it when people say that they can't do something. It may not be the best, but I'm of the belief that you should give it your best.

Any full paint job worth having is probably going to cost you $5,000 or more from a good shop, and that's not to say that just because you paid $5,000 you are guaranteed a good paint job. I've seen a lot of complete $hi** come out of the shops here in Georgia. I mean total trash, sometimes for $10K or more. Research a painter and be certain of his/her abilities and business practices before you give anyone any money, and always keep them working for the next installment. I once paid a shop $3,000 up front to start a complete teardown and paint on a Nova. After a week, the car was completely disassembled and I thought, "Great work, here's another $1,000, you guys are awesome and I want this done fast, so here's some more cash to keep the motivation up!" The Nova never was worked on by that shop again, they went bankrupt and there was nothing I could do about anything.

So, I was forced to do the restore myself. I had an old paint and body guy teaching me for free as long as I did the work, and I learned what to look for and how to do a fantastic paint job. So here's some advice:

1. Don't sand down to bare metal unless your paint is flaking off down to bare metal. The very best base/primer you can get is the same factory job that is possibly 40+ years old. It aint commin' off and your new paint will stick to it brilliantly.
2. The expensive stuff is more expensive for a reason, it is always better. Buy the best that your budget will allow.
3. Patience is the absolute #1 thing to have. Light coat, allow it to dry, sand it smooth, do it again, and again, and again.

For the guy asking about layering your paint in different colors:

This is primarily done with translucent or "candy" colors. Yes, you can do it with regular colors also but the effect will not be as noticed. Look at it this way, why is gray primer used more often than black, or say red primer? Because it is easier to cover up with lighter colors. If you were painting your car silver and you were painting over black primer, you would need to paint a gazillion coats of silver in order for the darker black to not effect the lighter silver. So the bottom layers do show through. With using roll on paint however, I would not try this. Your paint layers are going to be dreadfully thick anyway, you should avoid putting on any more than needed. Here's a little impromptu video that I did for a friend about painting. The concept would be the same for roll on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QE1QgFfM_w

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