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$50 paint job

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johnnyzoom
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Post #51 by johnnyzoom » Mon Dec 25, 2006 3:05 am

2nd time doing this, used Briteside Black. Like the thread says, more gloss but more orange peel, better coverage (2-3 coats as opposed to 6 - 8 ) Have to say I like this paint better, seems to be more forgiving of the paint/thinner ratio than Rustoleum, but less forgiving of humidity and conditions.

BEFORE:

Image

AFTER:

Image

Image

The way I look at this is at best you end up with something like Rick Wrench, at worst you're delaying some surface rust for a few years.
- 64 Comet 404, 200 i6, automatic, daily driver

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Post #52 by wallaka » Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:30 pm

Decided to strip down the worst panel on the Comet today. I ran out of sanding discs about 3/4 of the way through. Of course, I only had one 80 grit, the rest were useless. The hardware store didn't have any so I hand-sanded the lower part of the door. Anyhow, mixed it up 50/50 or so. The color is Regal Red...looks like lip gloss now.

One coat done:
Image

Never really done any automotive painting before, we'll see how it turns out!
Down to 29 cylinders!
2006 Porsche Cayman H6, 1968 Mercury Monterey big block (390), 1967 F-100 240, 1965 Mercury Comet 404 (200), 2009 Triumph Street Triple

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rickwrench
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Post #53 by rickwrench » Sun Jan 14, 2007 2:30 pm

2nd time doing this, used Briteside Black. Like the thread says, more gloss but more orange peel, better coverage (2-3 coats as opposed to 6 - 8 ) Have to say I like this paint better, seems to be more forgiving of the paint/thinner ratio than Rustoleum, but less forgiving of humidity and conditions.


I picked up a couple cases of Interlux Brightsides in red, blue, and white, but I haven't used any yet. The red is for the Alfa. I'm also going to repaint the other '62 wagon light sky blue/white top (that combo looks great on the roundbody wagons). Second choice was canary yellow with a white top.

What were the humidity issues with Brightsides?

Rick(wrench)
'62 Falcon Wagons (x2), Kellison J5, V8 Alfa GTam, Corvair Corsa:
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Post #54 by johnnyzoom » Sun Jan 14, 2007 4:09 pm

Well, it says on the can to avoid painting at humid time of day, and I thought I was safe starting at 3pm in December, about 55 degrees. After the sun sets here that time of year, moisture comes back quick and you start seeing water condense on cars by 7p, I had hit the trunk at about 6, not enough time to dry to a point of safety. So it was blotchy and had no gloss, had to be sanded off. Rest of the car was fine though.

As they've said, you need much less thinner with Briteside, I used about 1/10 ratio.

Fla is tricky, have to wait for humidity to burn off in the am, then be done before it comes back pm, not paint directly in sunlight, yet have some sun to help cure. Ideal time for me is find some shade at around 1pm.

My last project to go is almost completed 60 Rambler Wagon, torn on what colors, either black w/dark salmon top, or red w/alum silver top. Just don't see any point in being subtle about it!

You received some compliments on your work on that thread.
- 64 Comet 404, 200 i6, automatic, daily driver

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Post #55 by SteveS » Tue Jan 16, 2007 7:03 pm

rickwrench,

How many hours do you have in the Corvair paint. I looked at that looonnnnggggg thread on the other site and the job seemed very labor intensive to me.

SteveS

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Post #56 by rickwrench » Wed Jan 17, 2007 1:11 am

Bodywork was a couple months of weekends and odd evenings. Not every weekend (I'm still married), but about three or four weekend days and maybe four or five mid-week evenings a month. I did that from about April to September. It was tedious manual labor, I call it therapy from job stress. Then I rolled on primer, and started sanding.

The actual painting took about a week. The days I did get two coats on, it was wet sand in the morning for an hour or two, then roll on a coat. If it was completely dry in the afternoon, I'd roll on another. My wife rolled on a couple coats with me, and helped with the wet sanding. It was labor intensive, but, not all consuming. I took that week off and did a lot of around the house work between coats and sanding. We also went to the movies a few times during the painting week, visited the folks, etc. The stripe went on in one day, and then I let it sit for a week in the sun to completely dry. Then I buffed it out.

It was labor intensive. But, it also cost next to nothing out-of-pocket.
A lot of random people emailed my site email with the comment that for the dollar value of the amount of time I spent on the car I could have had it "professionally' done.
Hmm... so, I could have spent a ton of money and watched reality TV while someone else worked on my car?
Pass.
The last person I let work on one of my cars was the source of -every- mechanical problem that car had over the last year and a half. I plan to do -everything- myself from now on. Or, at the very least, stand closely over the shoulder of whoever is doing machine work for me.

Rolling the paint was fun, my wife enjoyed it, too.

Rick(wrench)
Last edited by rickwrench on Mon Feb 12, 2007 12:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
'62 Falcon Wagons (x2), Kellison J5, V8 Alfa GTam, Corvair Corsa:
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Post #57 by SteveS » Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:56 am

Rick,

Lot's of work but it seems well worth it....for you. I don't know if I have the patience to see it through.

Good job

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Post #58 by Abandoned67 » Fri Jan 19, 2007 2:53 pm

Wow, I have read lots in the Mopar forum and this sounds like an awsome way to paint a car. I will definitly be doing this but I want to have they same color that is on the car now, which means problably alot of mixing.
~Frank 1967 Mustang Coupe: 200c.i.d. coupled with a C4 trans.
"The 200 has durability. You need a large nuclear warhead to kill one, and even then............"
http://www.freewebs.com/classicsixshooters/
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$50 paint job

Post #59 by Stormin' Norman » Sat Jan 27, 2007 11:24 am

Last August I bought a few quarts of Red Tremclad to repaint my utility trailer. It's pn my To Do List, after I get my Fairmont Squire back together. But then, like a few others here, I saw Rick's link to the Moparts site, and went ooh-ahh!

I was convinced after the first page! Then I hit this page on the second section after page 43, and I knew there was no there was no alternative. What would you pay for a finish like that? (about 1/3rd down, by Aussie Driver.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... ost3071064

Near the end of that page, you'll find out his car was in an accident 4 days after that picture.

He has another Post on page 39 comparing the differences with Polishers. I build fine furniture, but like Furniture, tools are all about Function, not Form, first. Those big, cheap 10" Polishers weigh 6 pounds or more, all going straight down on the work piece. They don't overheat the paint as they rotate, and they don't leave gouge marks if you have to leave it for a few minutes (going to the john, dealing with a bee or hornet, etc.) The fact that they're cheap doesn't devalue them. I posted my research on the many types of polishers on Page 59 of that Moparts site.

Maybe its because I have to do my Trailer AND my Wagon, that I like the machine to do the biggest payload, and not my 58 year old arms, extended over a long roof or hood, but the smaller ones with all the bells and whistles just don't cut the mustard until I get down to the delicate vertical panels (Window frames, Doors, Tailgate, jambs, rocker panels, etc.)

I saw the BrightSide results and was tempted, but since I've got the Canadian Tremclad outlets within 10 blocks of my home, and I can get it mixed, guess what? I'll get the stock Tremclad Brown. My car has a Ford Mexico Tan interior, and that dark brown is just the cat's meow, with the Wood Grain and trim that RickWrench so graciously shared.

I posted my Polisher links and research on page 59 of that Moparts site. But the Aussie Driver did a great technical explanation on page 39 about 5 posts down. Since he got that fabulous Mirror Finish like nobody else, I figure he's onto something.
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.
My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #60 by Stormin' Norman » Sat Jan 27, 2007 11:51 am

Oh! I decided to copy the basic instructions from Page One on that site, and went through all 43 of the first segment diligently, pictures and all, including critiques, but excluding the side-wipes. It became two Word 2000 documents of over 86 megs!

What Rick posted is actually enough to get it done. I wanted the finer points, and some opposite views too. Some folks actually did a good job of talking you through "Feel the Force" kinds of things, like how the paint is flowing on, the right mixture ratios, when to roll over the bubbles or 'puff' them out. The little tips that make a pigs ear into a silk purse.

Of course, I got those fabulous pictures of the Aussie Driver's results, and the Beer Fridge and the Lawn Mower. And that rib-busting story of the guy who painted his car in a Parkade!

I didn't copy the post where some major Paint Shop is actually applying their Primers with a roller, before prepping for a Spray Finish.

But like Rick said, he could do it over time. I can drive my car and do one panel at a time, on my budget, my schedule, and get a better result.

If anyone wants the 2 huge docs, I'll have to chop them up into smaller zip files. Most email apps won't accept anything as large as 82 megs! :twisted:
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #61 by Stormin' Norman » Sun Jan 28, 2007 1:15 pm

I saw the light! :twisted:

The expensive Cyclo polisher (link below) is a twin-head machine, "to duplicate circulating hand movement".

http://www.cyclotoolmakers.com/products/prodcomp.html

Since that whole thread at the Moparts site (RickWrench's $50 paint job link.) is about experimentation, I said to myself, "Self!, why not see what you can do with that old Hoover twin-head floor polisher!"

I'll dig around for a rheostat (speed control) and I get still get the bonnets at my local Appliance repair shops. My mom had one brand with 3 heads, which I think was by Electrolux or Bissell.

These new car polishers got their roots from somewhere, and to me they lack the natural weight required to "Put the Stuff to it!", plus the big diameter machines don't have the amperage to deal with the pressure needed to handle the 'Orange Peel' issues that we'd get with this roller process. I remember waxing my mom's floors on my hands and knees, with my dad's old T-shirts, until we got the big polisher. Man, when you're 7 years old, those old farm kitchens look like a football field!

Anyway, the Hoover twin-head has 2 5-inch heads (lots of bonnets available, and they snap on and off (no wrenches required), :idea: plus when I'm done I can just reattach the long handle and use it elsewhere again.

I often go to the thrift stores looking for older woodworking tools, and there's always some of the old polishers and brushes around. The pads and bonnets and wool pad bonnet cleaning tools are available anywhere, and I'll bet a lighting rheostat would work just fine.
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #62 by Stormin' Norman » Sun Jan 28, 2007 2:31 pm

I found the old beast. It's a General Electric Model CS11 A. The 'discs' are made of 5/8 plywood. The snap on bracket has a central metal snap (like for jackets or motor-cycle side bags, and the snap bracket is about a 13/16" hex-nut sized bracket that slips over the hex-shaped 'nut mount' That bracket uses wood screws to mount on the plywood 5" diameter disc.

That means that I can fabricate my own discs to use any foam or wool pads, with or without velcro. And it weighs about 7 pounds! That Cyclo machine (not the gold-plated $375.00 (USD$) unit) costs about $600.00 here in Canada with duty, shipping and taxes. It will even clean hockey rink boards!

This GE unit is about 11" from Disc to Disc edge, and 12" full width. No matter which machine I buy I have to buy pads and bonnets.

The Cyclo runs at 220 watts (AKA 2 amps), and this old beast runs at 3 amps. (330 watts). :D
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #63 by Stormin' Norman » Sun Jan 28, 2007 2:43 pm

eh he! I got a picture of it! There's got to be a few of these still around.

Here's the link:
http://www.adclassix.com/ads2/51gepolisher.htm
[/img]
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #64 by Abandoned67 » Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:50 pm

I have a question for all of the people here that have tryed this way of painting or have read deeply into the mopar forum. I have read almost up to page 55 but I forget if I read anything about tinting paint.

Do you think it would be possible to have home depot tint gloss white
rustoleum to be any color you wanted? and still have it turn out good.
~Frank 1967 Mustang Coupe: 200c.i.d. coupled with a C4 trans.

"The 200 has durability. You need a large nuclear warhead to kill one, and even then............"

http://www.freewebs.com/classicsixshooters/

Image

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Post #65 by addo » Mon Jan 29, 2007 12:56 am

Regarding hardware store paint tinting:

Paint is coloured from a "base" colour. For cours made off a white base, darker tints are from a "deep base" which has less opaquing white in to begin with. Pastels are tinted from "vivid white" which is quite a bright, solid white. There's often a medium base for inbetween hues.

Also some colours exist as bases otherwise - green and red are two common ones. They are "pure" in colour, being made with only one pigment. It's thus easier to steer them into a related colour.

An excess of tinter generally means the paint stays softer for longer - sometimes far too long.

Auto paint is much more convoluted!

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Post #66 by Abandoned67 » Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:42 pm

Well basicly I am not going to mix the paint from several colors of rustoleum, not because I am lazy just because I am afraid that getting the exact color that I want in a large quantity would be way to hard to mix. I have posted on the mopar forum asking the same thing and they said that HomeDepot and Lowes stoped mixing rustoleum anyways. This is a big disapointment and now my car is problably going to be delayed more.
~Frank 1967 Mustang Coupe: 200c.i.d. coupled with a C4 trans.

"The 200 has durability. You need a large nuclear warhead to kill one, and even then............"

http://www.freewebs.com/classicsixshooters/

Image

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Post #67 by Stormin' Norman » Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:58 pm

Have you thought about that Interlux (Sherwin Williams) Brightside? The guys had great results with it, and they could get that tinted. That finish I posted above about Aussie Driver's mirror finish was done with Brightside. Here it is again!

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... ost3073117
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #68 by Abandoned67 » Mon Jan 29, 2007 3:31 pm

Yeah I thought about it But where do I get it?
~Frank 1967 Mustang Coupe: 200c.i.d. coupled with a C4 trans.

"The 200 has durability. You need a large nuclear warhead to kill one, and even then............"

http://www.freewebs.com/classicsixshooters/

Image

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Post #69 by Stormin' Norman » Mon Jan 29, 2007 3:43 pm

In the US? Any of your favourite home renovation stores. Lowes, HD, Ace, Kelly Moore. A lot of guys in California said that Kelly Moore was the place.
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #70 by Abandoned67 » Mon Jan 29, 2007 3:50 pm

If they will mix it to around this color that would be great.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h174/ ... /Front.jpg
~Frank 1967 Mustang Coupe: 200c.i.d. coupled with a C4 trans.

"The 200 has durability. You need a large nuclear warhead to kill one, and even then............"

http://www.freewebs.com/classicsixshooters/

Image

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Post #71 by rickwrench » Sun Feb 11, 2007 11:21 pm

Pics of the Corvair's roll-on Rustoleum paint job after 4 months on the street, in the sun, rain, and getting crapped upon daily by birds. I washed the leaves, dirt, and scrubbed bird poop off this morning, drove it around most of the day, took some paint pics when I got home this evening.

Image

Image

I can't tell -any- difference between the paint's gloss today and 4 months ago. I still haven't gotten around to waxing it.

Rick(wrench)
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Post #72 by TeddyXY71 » Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:21 am

Hey Rick,
nice work. I'm definitely looking at trying this method on my old Falcon, though I have to decide on the Australian version of Rustoleum, most likely a product called RustKill! (Brightside, although it can be sourced in Oz, isn't readily available to me) Just a quick couple of questions, how far did you go with the panel prep? The consensus of the mopar board seemed to be that prep was 80-90% of the results, and the paint took care of the rest. Did you bare metal many (any) of your panels and build up from there? Also, you said you rolled on primer first, though others on the mopar forum didn't think it necessary, but do you think it has helped achieve the results you've seen in your own car?

Regards,

Teddy :)
1971 XY Falcon
"The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to avoid finding oneself among the ranks of the insane" - Marcus Aurelius

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Post #73 by rickwrench » Wed Feb 14, 2007 12:08 pm

I rolled on a coat of primer after all the bodywork was done. Primer is the last step of the body work, filling scratches, tiny pits, etc. Then, like the skim coats on the patch panels, it is sanded mostly of it off. You could paint without a primer coat, but you'll then need a couple extra coats to fill any scratches or dings.
I went down to bare metal in a few spots (door dings), but for the most part I only went down to the original factory primer. Any bare metal was covered with primer though. Having the car one color, primer gray, helps with paint coverage too.
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Post #74 by Bort62 » Tue Mar 06, 2007 6:05 pm

You absolutely can tint rustoleum with typical enamel tints. I used to sell paint at a hardware store and did it all the time.

You just have to find a paint guy at a local place who is cool enough to do it for you.

This may be premature, because I have not read through the mopar thread - but... what is the opinion regarding spraying on thinned rustoleum? This might be the solution I am looking for.

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Post #75 by Stormin' Norman » Tue Mar 06, 2007 8:50 pm

I read all the first 43 and next 62 pages, and downloaded the entire thread and photos into over 95 megs of Word 2000. A few guys came into the thread with your approach and did OK, but the problem was pointed out that the Rattle Can approach contains more thinners (like 10 percent paint to 90 thinners. The guys who sprayed it were using more paint, but they adjusted it for their climate (temperature, humidity, etc.). Most commented that they got decent jobs but couldn't achieve the final mirror finish that the Roll-On guys were.

Hope that helps.
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #76 by Bort62 » Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:00 pm

Sorry, I meant spray on with a HVLP or similar, not rattle can.

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Post #77 by Stormin' Norman » Tue Mar 06, 2007 11:41 pm

Ian, the HLVP guys just adjusted the mix accordingly (humidity. temperature). I think the roller mix was 30% thinners. IIRC the HLVP mix was 50-50, but some mixed in more thinners to lay the paint down flatter, more quickly. The dry time is about the same - 12 to 18 hours. The one problem was dealing with the bubbles if there wasn't enough thinners, but at 50-50 they should dissolve quickly. Usually the bubbles flatten out within 2 to 5 seconds, if the mixture is thin enough with a roller. The remaining ones were blown down with a quick puff of air (breath). With a spray gun, I'd guess that a thinner mixture would handle it.
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #78 by johnnyzoom » Wed Mar 07, 2007 12:22 am

I've been keeping up with that thread for almost a year, the sprayed results seemed more impressive than most rollers (exceptions of course). Have to take into account their prep work and availability of a place to shoot.
- 64 Comet 404, 200 i6, automatic, daily driver

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Post #79 by Bort62 » Wed Mar 07, 2007 1:56 pm

Interesting. I will have to block out a few hours this weekend to read through the thread.

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Post #80 by Stormin' Norman » Wed Mar 07, 2007 4:06 pm

Ian, it took me about 4 days. My earlier posts my help you cut to the chase. The very first 10 pages have a lot of pro and con sidetracks on Spraying vs rollering, then it gets into a good technical dialogue on rollering. Later in the next section (page 44 and beyond) there's a less heated dialogue over spraying do's nad don'ts. As you get closer to page 59 in the second section, people are talking about polishers and buffing pastes and more shine and refining tips. Well worth the effort.

You say, "It took you 4 days?!" I read it between some of the ads during some good movies, but it reminds me of a joke:

A mother is writing to her son, soldiering on the front, and she says, "My Dear son, I'm writing slow, because I know you don't read too fast." Love Mom

Going through that thread can be gruesome at times, but the tips and counterpoints are great! 69Charger was awesome, tenacious, and persistent. A couple of others were loyal to the effort and went through their trials and tribulations, doubts and affirmations. Its a journey in human drama. I loved it. So many guys working so hard to prove an idea! Outstanding!
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #81 by johnnyzoom » Wed Mar 07, 2007 6:01 pm

There is a LOT of repetition and overdetail, but every now and then there's a great moment. My favorite is about a third of the way through, where some guy with nowhere to paint his car gets up early in the morning then rolls a coat or two in a Home Depot parking lot!
- 64 Comet 404, 200 i6, automatic, daily driver

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Post #82 by Stormin' Norman » Wed Mar 07, 2007 6:04 pm

Yeah, its my favourite too! I just break out laughing when I think about it. I'm typing slow, but it's because I'm laughing too much right now about that one! :lol:
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #83 by Stormin' Norman » Wed Mar 07, 2007 6:07 pm

What about the beer fridge guy? That wasn't as funny in its telling, but the Tom Sawyer way he just lavished and went on over its progress! :D
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #84 by Williboy » Fri Mar 30, 2007 2:32 pm

I'm getting my new floorpans replaced as I type, and I was thinking about how to paint them before installing the carpet and this thread got me thinking

Obviously I'm not worried about gloss and shine. Should I thin to make a quicker drying time or straight out of the can for a thicker coat?? Instead of a 50/50 what about less mineral spirits 70/30??

What about sanding between coats???

Would this work for the exterior underside as well?? Once again not needing a "look" as much as protection
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Stormin' Norman
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$50 paint job

Post #85 by Stormin' Norman » Fri Mar 30, 2007 3:16 pm

If its the floorpan only, I'd put it on like you said 70/30 for the first coat, and then full or near full strength for one or two more coats. I noticed in mine that there's just light oxidation after 28 years with only primer under the original underlay. Where it didn't have the underlay, the sandy grit does eventually pierce the primer and the rust wants to start to take root. Once you get the rust off, a few decent coats would probably keep the beast in good shape.

Since the tarred felt underlay didn't allow air to get to the lower floor pan, I'll use something like a fibrous rooftar over the paint, then put new underlay, then the carpets. We have a lot of snow and road salt, which does melt with the heater and soaks down, which may not be an issue for you. I figure the tighter i keep the air away, the less I'll have to watch the interior floor, and concentrate more of keeping it off the exterior of the floorpan with undercoating, etc.
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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FrankBoss
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Post #86 by FrankBoss » Mon Apr 02, 2007 3:38 pm

I wonder how flat colors look with this roller method?
I'm pondering doing something like this on my beater truck.

Flat black

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1960 Falcon 2 Door wagon *new 3.3L comp260 Cam* FrankBoss Carb adapter 5200 Holley. Duraspark 2 conversion MSD Blaster 3 coil,Altinator conversion, 8 inch rear end.5speed
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Post #87 by FrankBoss » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:10 pm

I know this is nutty .. but i never thought about it before... if the color is flat you would still be able to buff it to protect the paint but not to polish it to a shine?Crap ....I'm so confused....

I rather have a eggshell look than a old primer look.

Frank
1960 Falcon 2 Door wagon *new 3.3L comp260 Cam* FrankBoss Carb adapter 5200 Holley. Duraspark 2 conversion MSD Blaster 3 coil,Altinator conversion, 8 inch rear end.5speed
Soon to have Oz 2V (found a Intake) now machining for over sized valves
1972 Pinto~ *289 Dual4's, 4 speed*
I'm always looking for Pintos or parts.
1984 Ranger *2.3L EFI IC Turbo & 5 Speed*
PintoWorks.com

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Post #88 by Stormin' Norman » Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:29 pm

Frank, you can get the Eggshell look from a seaside beach. It's called seagull poop! Seattle, Vancouver, LA, etc. :twisted:

I read somewhere that a shiny car gets about 3 MPG more than a dusty one. IIRC.
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #89 by wallaka » Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:01 pm

Stormin' Norman wrote:I read somewhere that a shiny car gets about 3 MPG more than a dusty one. IIRC.


You read some bullcrap, then.
Down to 29 cylinders!
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addo
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Post #90 by addo » Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:53 pm

I wouldn't dismiss it that fast, but 3MPG sounds very optimistic. There's a lot of surface area for consideration.

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Post #91 by Stormin' Norman » Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:18 pm

Now was it a caddy, a lincoln or a kenworth? :oops:
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #92 by Stormin' Norman » Wed Apr 11, 2007 12:08 am

Wallaka, I have to concede that you may be right. The search I just did on Google pulled up all kinds of articles and forums usually sponsored by car wax companies.

I did find on blog for boaters, that claims up to 16% more efficiency if thee hull is polished (comment by Barry near the bottom of the page:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/003999.html

Another one makes claims, but no documentation:
http://www.wanderings.net/books/node/316/

And the most recognized association, Car Care Council, avoids the Efficiency claim, but reinforces vehicle value.
http://www.carcare.org/Articles/wash_wax.shtml

I did it religiously on my Fuel Dragsters, when I was young and dumb, and kept the habit, so I don't have any comparable evidence at normal speeds. Mea Culpa.
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #93 by wallaka » Wed Apr 11, 2007 12:09 am

Well, in land speed racing it makes no difference in the speed if the car is smoothly waxed or not. If in that situation, where aerodynamics are the most important, that little bit doesn't matter, there is no way it will improve a measureable amount at slower speeds.

I know, apples and oranges and all that. But drag is drag, and at highway speeds I feel there would be no gain. Heck, adding a bed topper on a truck might net 3 mpg, and that's a big change in the aerodynamics.

Guess my post sounded a little more hostile than I intended, should have put a smiley there.
Down to 29 cylinders!
2006 Porsche Cayman H6, 1968 Mercury Monterey big block (390), 1967 F-100 240, 1965 Mercury Comet 404 (200), 2009 Triumph Street Triple

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Post #94 by Stormin' Norman » Wed Apr 11, 2007 12:43 am

wallaka, No pain, no gain, man. It was an interesting search, though. I learned a lot about waxes, washing cleaners, do's and dont's. Even found a Ford Dealership with tips for cleaning Capris, giving part numbers for Official Ford cleaners and wax, weatherstrip lubricants and emergency brake cable lubricants.

http://www.midcomustang.com/capricarcaretips.shtml

Thanks for the challenge! Better that than perpetuating a myth, right?
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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Post #95 by FLSHBCK » Wed Apr 11, 2007 11:00 am

The comment about the polished hull on boats is interesting. I spent a summer about 9-10 years ago running around with an SST-45 tunnel hull race boat.

Interesting toys... at the time the class was fiberglass/wood/carbon fiber construction 13' hydroplane, had to be over 700 lbs with driver with a 45ci outboard. They can run over 80mph if set up correctly. (http://www.sst45.com/seriesinfo.shtml if you're interested)

Anyway, there was one guy who pretty much dominated the circuit that year. Late in the season one of the people with us on the trip noticed that the bottom of this guy's boat was substantially smoother that most. You could run your hand across it and notice how much less friction there was than across say... ours :) Seems like that might be valid for boats, at least...
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$50 paint job is in Hot Rod!

Post #96 by in2hotrods » Wed May 23, 2007 7:37 pm

Hot Rod magazine just covered this in the latest issue....they painted up a round body falcon. It's a good read!
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Post #97 by rickwrench » Thu May 24, 2007 7:39 pm

I read the HRM write up last night, much of it sounded familiar...:wink:
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Post #98 by Stormin' Norman » Fri May 25, 2007 8:58 am

We don't have the HRM out yet, up here in snow land! It is snowing today, BTW. :cry:

Are they using other materials? The Stock Paint color I want is a new one called Chestnut Brown (27002) by Rustoleum's Canadian brand Tremclad (what the MoParts.org guy used. They told me in April that the orders were going to be in Stores by mid-May. Still not in. :?
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

Doofnoil

Post #99 by Doofnoil » Sat May 26, 2007 12:38 am

I'm interested in doing the underhood area and underneath the fenders with this process. will the rustoleum hold up to high temperatures and dirt/rocks?

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Post #100 by Stormin' Norman » Sat May 26, 2007 9:41 am

Doofnoil, they do make a High Heat paint. I used their Rust Reformer before priming the underside of the fenders. Mine has those PVC inner fender wells, but after I took them off, I got in there to nuke the rest of the surface rust, after cleaning off the metal from dust and tar. I'll just use the black rust paint to spray over the primer.

The Rust Reformer is a rust converter (makes it inactive or if you like, kills the rust fungus). Follow the instructions on the can.

Here's the US link:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGBrand.asp?bid=2
1979 Fairmont Squire, from a 302-V8 to a 200 ci, C4 Auto.

My other vehicle is 2 on the floor with overhead laces.

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