Another Turbo 200 nears completion....

[cudaz101]

I for one am patiently waiting for Version 2.0...heh

You have my undivided attention, as I would REALLY like to build a Turbo setup for my old Iron 223ci in my 59 f100...

Thanks for your dedication and sharing all your findings. I think I have read and re-read this whole thread 10+ times...heh


Thanks again,


Brad

[Linc's 200]

Y'all may have to wait a little longer, I just have been so busy lately, trying to get the real important irons out of the fire, first!
(Or is it keep them in? The toys have to wait for later)

[Linc's 200]

To the top, just for fun

[hasa68mustang]

To the top, just for fun

so have any plans?

[addo]

Why does it show seven pages of posts, but when I click on the last page, it says something about not existing?

Is that my proxy?

[Linc's 200]

Why does it show seven pages of posts, but when I click on the last page, it says something about not existing?

Is that my proxy?

Not familiar with how the software operates

[Guest]

Question for Linc or anyone else

Can all the tubing be made out of regular exhaust pipe or do you need somthing of a thicker gauge, especially the "J" pipe?

Does it hurt to mig it all together vs tig welding? I have a mig welder and am good at it but dont have access to a tig nor have I ever tig welded somthing before.

Do you have to run a intercooler or can you start out without one.

I know that the optimum compression is around 8.5:1 but what happens if you boost a higher compression engine?

Cut the boost and timing back?

350 cfm carb Holley....right??

To hook up all this to a very expensive dual exhaust system, can you just Y it back together from the down pipe?

And I know....turbocharging by Hugh Macinnes (sp)

Oh...BTW, I made this a sticky

Thanks,

Doug

[Linc's 200]

Hi Doug, thanks for making it a sticky .... though the whole thread could be gone through and cleaned up quite a bit and knocked down to about 3 pages!!

Can all the tubing be made out of regular exhaust pipe or do you need somthing of a thicker gauge, especially the "J" pipe?

AVOID at all costs thin walled pipe. The thicker, the better it can handle the weight, heat and stress. I have seen some pretty nice installations fail after about a year, because thin-walled pipe can't take the abuse. The scraps I welded together are actually from a Ford Explorer....and the wall thickness is abnormally thick, maybe about .080"?? Maybe it's just .065" but it is definitely thicker than plain exhaust pipe. Another nice thing is the scraps I used are all mandrel-bent pieces from the factory. I don't have a "crush" bent piece anywhere. Best thing is, it was all FREE!!

Does it hurt to mig it all together vs tig welding? I have a mig welder and am good at it but dont have access to a tig nor have I ever tig welded somthing before.

MIG is just fine. I used the TIG on a lot of the intercooler pipe because that was much thinner wall thickness, and it is a lot easier to fill gaps with TIG than MIG if the pipes don't meet up perfectly. All my exhaust pieces were MIG'd, IIRC.

Do you have to run a intercooler or can you start out without one.

An intercooler will allow you to run more boost, or lower octane fuel...depending. Any time you get the air going into the engine cooled down, you reduce the engine's tendency to detonate. If all you have is 91 octane fuel, an intercooler may help you run a few extra PSI of boost.

It also depends on the efficiency range of the turbo. If you are forcing a "too small" turbo to push more than it should be, then the air temps coming out of it will be VERY hot. An intercooler will help to prevent heat damage from all parts downstream.

I know that the optimum compression is around 8.5:1 but what happens if you boost a higher compression engine?

Actually, 8.5:1 isn't the best for ALL engines. It really has a lot to do with the shape of the combustion chamber, whether the head is iron or aluminum, altitude, fuel octane used, engine operating temp, etc.

Boosting a higher compression engine will require higher octane fuel, and/or a system that injects alcohol and/or water.

Cut the boost and timing back?

Reducing timing will reduce detonation but will also kill power if it is the only method used to prevent detonation.
SOME timing reduction is necessary no matter what, since a densely packed fuel air charge in the cylinder will burn faster no matter what (since the molecules are a lot closer together). But too much retard kills power.

350 cfm carb Holley....right??

Depends on what you are comfortable with. My next carb is going to be a 2100 Motorcraft carb, because:
1) Has annular venturis already
2) has a solid float already
3) you can pull the top off to change jets without dumping fuel everywhere
4) The top is bolted down .... with a 5/16" stud! No bowl gaskets to leak fuel out of the bottom of the bowl
Cons are....single needle inlet looks to be about .080" or so...that could be a problem.

When being blow-through.....smaller carbs are a lot easier to tune than large ones. The better the pressure drop through the carb, the better the signal strength at the venturi. You want good, positive fuel flow through the venturi at all times. I think you can get too small, but even my 1.125" venturi 1-bbl carb would have been good for a high 12-second run with a good launch.

To hook up all this to a very expensive dual exhaust system, can you just Y it back together from the down pipe?

Sure... many guys split the exhaust right after the turbo into a "Y". The build on my 32 valve 4.6 liter is going to have a "Y" immediately after the turbo outlet.

And I know....turbocharging by Hugh Macinnes (sp)

A good book for the bare basics ..... it is getting a little dated, though. It could stand to be modernized a bit.

[Guest]

Cool...Thanks!

I have access to "used" OEM exhaust systems so I'll be on the lookout for suitable pieces!

Another question,

Is it "better" to run a J pipe like you did or make a manifold like Will did or does it just depend on how much performance you want?

If a manifold is better any ideas on the design of one?

I have 2 flanges I had made several years back and I have mandrel bent U header tubes and I was going to weld a manifold together but lost interest in it...still have the tubes and flanges though.

Not looking for an 11 second ride.....14's or 13's would be fine by me and the simpler the setup the better!

Thanks,

Doug

[Linc's 200]

Is it "better" to run a J pipe like you did or make a manifold like Will did or does it just depend on how much performance you want?

If a manifold is better any ideas on the design of one?

A "J" is fine for many applications.

The absolute best set-up anywhere is each exhaust port feeding it own tiny turbo. They do make them that small, but that is extremely expensive. The next best thing is a full tubular header with equal length tubes. Also expnsive.

Straight sixes have one thing most engines don't:
A pair .... of three cylinders

HUH? The engine fires one of the front cylinders, then one of the back cylinders, etc. (1-5-3-6-2-4) The perfect place to put the turbo is right between cyls 3 and 4, and then use a divided turbine housing so cyls 1-2-3 feed one side and cyls 4-5-6 feed the other side. This makes a big difference in spool up time. If you look at straight six diesels, they almost always have this set-up.

Will and Kelly's log-type header is a compromise. In that case, it is just most convenient to put the turbo way up front, where there is space. If that pesky shock tower wasn't there, it would be best to put the turbo in the middle and split the flow.

[Does10s]

Linc's is right!
If the shock tower wasn't there, our header would be a 3-into-2 setup like Linc's described.
A log header (like our's) is just an easy way to get the desired results with limited space.
Will

[Guest]

hay man i like the car and your power adder.
i would like to when im finshed line up your turboed 200 fox and my soon to be dune twin turboed 300 fox thats would be fun.

[its just a six]

So, what's the latest on the new engine,1/4 mile runs etc??
Have not heard anything new in a while???

Is it "better" to run a J pipe like you did or make a manifold like Will did or does it just depend on how much performance you want?

If a manifold is better any ideas on the design of one?

A "J" is fine for many applications.

The absolute best set-up anywhere is each exhaust port feeding it own tiny turbo. They do make them that small, but that is extremely expensive. The next best thing is a full tubular header with equal length tubes. Also expnsive.

Straight sixes have one thing most engines don't:
A pair .... of three cylinders

[jamyers]

So, what's the latest on the new engine,1/4 mile runs etc??
Have not heard anything new in a while???

Anything new, Linc?

(and why do I get "no posts exist for this topic" whenever I click on the 7th page?)

[Linc's 200]

Anything new, Linc?
(and why do I get "no posts exist for this topic" whenever I click on the 7th page?)

Not sure about the errors on page 7....

Nothing new, and won't be. I have had waaaaaay too many irons in the fire at one time and have been slowly pulling them out, one at a time. One of those irons is anything drag racing related. I am going to be selling everything on ebay that has anything to do with turbos or carburetors or slicks or six bangers.... (blah blah blah) :-(

I have a lot of cool stuff, too.....FSPP cam (brand new), two brand new sets of forged pistons, some race prepped forged rods with ARP bolts, good blocks and heads, etc. etc. etc. It has all gotta go.

[pacer]

Simply awesome!!!!! I love the buildup!!! MAN O MAN!!!! 13sec on a 1bbl WOW!!!

[pacer]

Have you ever considered running Propane or LPG?? Are'nt the 1bbl propane carbs not affected by pressure?? Plus with the higher octane?? Who knows what the outcome might be??

[ManikMaster]

I did elect to go with a Front mount intercooler, because just playing with the car running and my hand over the compressor outlet, the air coming out was WAAY hotter than I expected it to be (when air is compressed it heats up) I didn't want to pump all that hot air straight into the carb.

When air is compressed it cools down for example making dry ice is a compression of co2 in gaseous form...not being a know it all...just physics...I really enjoy reading this thread by the way!!!

[I66coupe]

When air is compressed it cools down for example making dry ice is a compression of co2 in gaseous form...not being a know it all...just physics...I really enjoy reading this thread by the way!!!

You have it backwards, compression heats, expansion cools. Think: diesel.

[fastfalcon_19]

MAN you guys need to get a step by step on how to do this!!!

i never really was too interested in putting a turbo on the motor i have now i was going to wait till later but now i REALLY want to do it

every one that has done this needs to compile a list of EVERYTHING that is needed and the prices, then do a step by step with pictures so people like me that have NO idea what is involved or how much time and money it takes can do this

im with nathan, a step by step would be killer, or just a whole whack of pics so we can see the whole project!!!

[Grandmas6]

I'm really new here. I think this is my first post. I wanted to say how awesome this thread is. I never even thought about ever adding a turbo before reading this, but now, when I get around to doing the engine, it's a possibility.

That page where Linc first gets massive boost is a trip to read.

My project:

1966 Mustang. My dad became the mechanic on it when my grandmother became the car's second owner in 1967. Dad had a one-man professional shop from 1972 to 2003 and before that worked at a Ford dealership as a mechanic.

I'm the third owner. 200 block has never been pulled. 100,056 original miles. Bone stock. Good strong, smooth runner. 1967 C4 transmission. Rebuilding front suspension and doing Shelby Drop this winter. Added Monte Carlo bar. Should be back on its tires in four weeks. Did a lot of rust repair and then extensive body repairs after an uninsured driver took me out almost four years ago. Repainted two years ago. Gets about 1,500 to 3,000 miles from April to October.

I was a newbie when it came to the body, so it's a 20 footer.

Anyway, go Linc!!

[blue beast]

I have to admit nice fabrication skills! This is exactly what i want to do on my 1980 Stang, but i figured i'd first deal with the shortcomings of the stock head and intake...i need to look over more of this thread but you're on the same track as i want to go! how much will ya sell the settup for? J/k..

[woody88]

I must say I read this whole thread today, not the quickest task, and it brought tears to my eyes and ideas to my brain. I'm getting an 81 Fox with a I6, and t-roofs , and this thread has made me giddy as a school girl. All I have is a turbo from an 89 chrysler lancer and have no clue what it is, but the car is free and runs so my money can be invested in parts. I look forward to reading through this thread many many times... was totally worth reading all 7 pages . Oh and great work.

[JOSH1966200]

a 2.3 svo piston swaps out with stock to up compression i have 2 for sale because i needed 2 sets

[Anlushac11]

2.3L SVO used a 2.3L Lima OHC motor.

The 2.3L you are referring to is a 2.3L HSC which was based on the tooling of the 200 inline six.

Either way that gives you cast pistons which are not a good choice for a turbo motor. If your going turbo I recommend biting the bullet and buying forged pistons.

I am building a turbo 200 and went forged pistons. Couldnt really afford them but also felt I couldnt afford not to as a rebuild if anything went wrong would be expensive.

As for the Lancer turbo IIRC that is a 2.2L with a Garrett T3 but the T3 on the Chrysler is unique to the Chrysler. Different mounting flange and low A/R to spool up faster.

[rocklord]

a 2.3 svo piston swaps out with stock to up compression i have 2 for sale because i needed 2 sets

I checked the specs on a piston for a 2.3L OHC engine used in the SVO. Here they are.

Bore 3.81
pin diameter 0.912
Compression height 1.59

The specs for the 200/250 piston is: Bore 3.68, pin diameter. 0.9122, Compression height 1.500

The piston is 0.13 larger in diameter and would not fit the block.

[JOSH1966200]

im buildin one of my own did you use type of gasket between the turbo housing and your j pipe adapter

[JOSH1966200]

could be that my block was bored but the svo swap worked for me

[rocklord]

could be that my block was bored but the svo swap worked for me

Measure one of the extra pistons you have and tell us what the diameter is.

The recommended maximum overbore for a 200 block is +0.060".
To use a SVO piston from a 2.3L turbo, you would have to overbore +0.130.

Should not be possible to use a SVO piston.

[JackFish]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_HSC_engine

The HSC ("High Swirl Combustion") is an automobile engine from Ford Motor Company sold from 1984 until 1994. It was produced in Lima, Ohio, largely using tooling and designs adapted from the predecessor 200 CID straight 6.

The 2.3 L (2301 cc, 140 CID) version was introduced in 1984 for the Ford Tempo/Mercury Topaz. Bore is 3.68 in (93.5 mm) and stroke is 3.3 in (83.8 mm)[1]. This engine produced 90 hp (67 kW) and 125 ft·lbf (169 N·m) of torque[2].

This is the one with the same piston diameter.

[JOSH1966200]

my bad they are tempo pistons the dude i bought them from marked them wrong

[cyoung67]

I'm crushed............ Read though and was excited about the possibilities of V2.0.

Anyone know how Linc's 200 is doing? I hope all is well.

Rev

[64 200 ranchero]

how do you regulate the boost 20 psi of boost would require how much psi on the waste gate and bov would it all be at 20 psi or would they be regulated differently

[mike1157]

how do you regulate the boost 20 psi of boost would require how much psi on the waste gate and bov would it all be at 20 psi or would they be regulated differently

Unless the waste gate had a 20 psi spring in it,(unlikely) then boost was controlled via an external boost controller (either manual, or electric) that applied pressure from the turbo to the top of the waste gate diaphragm, effectively increasing the force of the waste gate spring. How much additional pressure to achieve 20 P.S.I. is directly related to what spring was in the waste gate in the first place. The BOV has nothing to do w/ regulating boost, it's purpose is to vent boost to atmosphere when the throttle is closed.

[Travis JR]

Hey I know this is a really old post but do you mind giving me some updated information on how you turbocharged your inline 6. I'm trying to turbocharge my 66 mustang inline 6 and was just wondering if you could give me some tips and pictures if you still have the car on how you did it. How much did it cost, was it simple to do? Thanks