Has anyone converted to 12v, plus adapted the Dodge or plymouth slant six distributor to the 254 or 226? I know of some that were converted for Hudson flatheads and they work very well. It yields a hotter spark of course, plus probably a little better mileage. I'd like any suggestions or thoughts on this subject. One advantage is no more points to buy, obviously.
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slant six DISTRIBUTOR CONVERSION (HEI) for flathead 254/226
- Thread starter M6ride
- Start date
I've done the 12V positive ground conversion on my '48 H series, but still using the points. I might be able to answer questions on that part. 140A alternator and modern lights make the old cars much more fun to drive.
Are you talking about converting to HEI by grafting a new head onto the old shaft for the distributor or by finding another complete distributor that would interchange? You could always trigger some kind of electronic ignition using the points as a low current switch which would let the points last a very long time. I've seen this done with both aftermarket boxes and things like the Mopar orange box, etc.
I'd be very happy to get rid of the stock distributor to get away from the strange venturi vacuum advance to let me change carbs, etc. I'm not sure if any other distributors will fit or can be easily converted. Of course, with enough machine shop time anything can be made to work. I have an idea on using an external box to control timing - lock the distributor fully advanced and then use engine RPM to do a 2 dimensional map of timing vs. RPM. The kit I saw used a switch to jump between two different tables, so you could get a different advance curve under boost, for example. I have not tried this yet, but I figured that I could get enough curve data from the factory shop manuals to get something at least close.
Anyone have a spare type H distributor that I could use to investigate a conversion with a machine shop? Are there any other later model Ford distributors that might interchange with a gear swap or something? What other choices are there for ignition? In the old days there were performance intakes for this engine so someone must have worked out how to get around the strange vacuum advance with multiple carbs, etc.
My problem is that TBI units don't have venturi vacuum. . .
Thanks!
Ed
Are you talking about converting to HEI by grafting a new head onto the old shaft for the distributor or by finding another complete distributor that would interchange? You could always trigger some kind of electronic ignition using the points as a low current switch which would let the points last a very long time. I've seen this done with both aftermarket boxes and things like the Mopar orange box, etc.
I'd be very happy to get rid of the stock distributor to get away from the strange venturi vacuum advance to let me change carbs, etc. I'm not sure if any other distributors will fit or can be easily converted. Of course, with enough machine shop time anything can be made to work. I have an idea on using an external box to control timing - lock the distributor fully advanced and then use engine RPM to do a 2 dimensional map of timing vs. RPM. The kit I saw used a switch to jump between two different tables, so you could get a different advance curve under boost, for example. I have not tried this yet, but I figured that I could get enough curve data from the factory shop manuals to get something at least close.
Anyone have a spare type H distributor that I could use to investigate a conversion with a machine shop? Are there any other later model Ford distributors that might interchange with a gear swap or something? What other choices are there for ignition? In the old days there were performance intakes for this engine so someone must have worked out how to get around the strange vacuum advance with multiple carbs, etc.
My problem is that TBI units don't have venturi vacuum. . .
Thanks!
Ed
On a Hudson flathead the distributor shaft is removed and easily slipped into the slant six distributor. Then the slant six distributor's body needs a slight shave to fit into the Hudson distributor hole. So, question is to compare the disassembled Ford shaft with the Hudson shaft for length and reconfiguration possibilities (i.e., upgrade the Hudson shaft to look like the Ford requires, install in the slant six dist, modify for insertion into Ford block, etc.) Also the size of the hole in the Ford block factors for the distributor, assuming it slips in and a clamp holds it securely. this should be investigated thoroughly. The slant six has centrifugal advance and therefore no vaccuum line will be required; mine works better w/o it connected. :idea:
63redtudor
Well-known member
I have a question for you guys, I thought that some of the part #s for the earlier 215/223 distributor are the same as the H & M motors. Is this true? The reason I ask this is that a 300 duraspark dizzy can be used in the later 223/262s & with a little work, the earlier 215/223s. So, I guess where I'm going with this is if my thinking is correct, then it shouldn't take too much to drop a 300 DS2 (or maybe a 200/250?) into a 226/254. Just another option.
Edwin
Edwin
A
Anonymous
Guest
Has anyone figured out or solved the slant 6 to 226/254 conversion question ???
Amen, I've got a 226 w/ points and am curious about this swap too!
The points, condensor, rotor, and cap are the same in the mid 47 up H and M 226/254 and the 223/262. The easy thing about converting some other distributor to fit in the 226/254 is that the distributor shaft does NOT have the drive gear on it. The gear is on the oil pump and the distributor is driven by a spline in the oil pump shaft. Therefore, any distributor for a 6 cylinder that turns the right direction (clockwise from the top) can be made to fit by either turning down or sleeving up the part of the distributor that goes in the block. The clamp grips the top of the part that goes into the block. The drive shaft with the spline can be cut off of the Ford distributor and welded to the end of the new distributor at the correct length. The distributor gear on the new distributor can be cut or ground down for clearance as the hole in the Ford block is not very deep remembering, however, part of the gear is needed to establish end clearance for the distributor shaft. Almost any later 6 cylinder distributor can be used, the easiest maybe is the 6 cyl chevy 194 230 292. Also easy is the 200 cube Ford 6. Both used electronic ignition in the later distributors. See also Distributor conversion post just above this topic. Rembember that a flathead requires about 10 degrees crankshaft less maximum advance than an ohv. The distributor will have to be recurved.
I just joined the forum (first post!)and am wondering where I can find instructions for 12 volt neg ground conversion for my 226 ci H. It's in a Ford 8N tractor. I did a search here but came up dry so I am just hunting through old posts. I'd like to find the easiest alternator fit (one wire if possible). And, other than the starter which does not need to be swapped out, I am unsure what other parts need to be changed out and what part numbers to use. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Eric
Eric
Hi flathead ford guys (six of ccourse) Finally got registered. Here is what I did 2 years ago if anyone is interested. It has been working great in my opinion,and was not a pain to do. I took a Chevy 250 six distributor, about a '77,had a machine shop adapt the Ford shaft to the Chevy dist. I also took him a stock dist. for correct dimensions. It slid right in started up like it was made for it. Motor is 254 8MTH running circle track in K.C. area. Hope this is some help for a great motor to someone.