Another Turbo 200 nears completion....

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66Sprint6":6qqr2pkp said:
hmmm, wonder how well it will hold up then
Matt

Just fine.

In fact, among the V8 circles, the stock replacement "autozone" sourced Fel-Pro 8548-PT2 is actually a better head gasket and can handle more abuse than the higher-priced so-called "High Performance" head gasket Fel-Pro sells. Go figure.
 
linc200 can you please post up a piccy of the boost referenced fuel pump, i cannot for the life of me see how it would work especially under vacum. my thoughts are that under vacum it would suck the fuel back up the hose into the intake.
 
Thanks Linc, makes me feel a little better, lol!!! Im going to be driving my car daily so I dont want anything to go wrong, you know
Matt
 
gravelrash":2rph562s said:
linc200 can you please post up a piccy of the boost referenced fuel pump,....... under vacum ...........

The fuel pump never sees vacuum.

The fuel pump vent is referenced to the carby hat, so that it only sees pressure when boost comes on.
 
So you said you ran a 10.2 in the 1/8? What was your MPH I ran a 10.2 at 60 or 61 with a 2.22 60' on a un tuned oz 4v, T5, stock every thing else. Broken clutch, and cracked block.
 
Kstang":2l9fglk5 said:
So you said you ran a 10.2 in the 1/8? What was your MPH?

I think it was around 65 mph...

I never even got one full, clean run without running out of fuel before the end of the eighth arrived.

The last three days at work have been from noon until 4 AM....
man, am I ever going to get a break??!!??


More goodies arrived today....my 10" 3000 RPM stall-speed torque converter has arrived!! (for my 164 tooth '82 flexplate) and also a fogger nozzle and jets.

I *WILL* make this thing launch!
 
very nice and you did it yourself...
Good on you from down under...
 
I am still working on a totally new fuel system. Gone is the mechanical boost referenced pump - the check valves (namely the inlet) seem to be the weak point, and as fuel pressure climbs it damages whatever material/design the inlet check valve is made of. I estimate it would be fine for 10 psi applications, but I am not happy at that boost level since I know what 20 feels like.

I still need some more fittings for my Aeromotive regulator, and to run a return line. I will keep you posted.... (work is killing me)
 
boston774":1atuhyrx said:
Out of curiosity, do you find that the 1946 can pass enough fuel to support the horsepower you are making?

From the float bowl into the venturi - YES.

Through the inlet needle and seat into the float bowl? I don't know, I am trying to wrap up the new fuel system, then I'll see.

I can remember when I had the *one* good mechanical pump on, it would handle 20 psi while shifting 1-2-3, so maybe the inlet needle and seat are fine at 27 psi!! (boost referenced)

It is almost 6 PM, I have maybe three hours max to see what I can do to finish it up and get it ready for the drags tomorrow after work!
 
Oh yeah, I changed to day shift at work, and met a guy who builds racing transmissions on the side. I am going to yank the stock C5, have him go through my big bell C4, then I can swap it in along with my new 10", 3200 RPM torque converter! That is going to help - - - a LOT!!

We'll see if my new fuel system fixes my problems so I can make a clean run. Then the good trans/converter go in to drop the 60 ft times.
 
Linc's,

Good luck at the track today. I know you said your engine was stock. Are you concerned about the weak valve springs hindering performance? Have they been shimmed or replaced? I favor solid lifter cams - to me they're simpler to set up - no pump up. I may be too old school. I know you mentioned that you're working on a 2-barrel set up. Something I know is that 200's love tri-power and 200's love turbos. I don't think combining them has ever been done before. Two more needles can't hurt fuel availability. Maybe you're the man to do it!
 
"Are you concerned about the weak valve springs hindering performance?"

Not when the trans is shifting as low as it is. I am not going to be concerned unless they pose a problem. We'll see. If any damage does occur, you will all find out about HERE!!

"Have they been shimmed or replaced?"

Nope. Stock 1xx,xxx somthing miles. Never had the valve cover off.

" I know you mentioned that you're working on a 2-barrel set up. Something I know is that 200's love tri-power and 200's love turbos. I don't think combining them has ever been done before. Two more needles can't hurt fuel availability. Maybe you're the man to do it!"

Interesting idea - I am game.

Actually, I have another idea, you can see the (rough) sketch I posted here: http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26454
 
Just keep in mind. When you figure the sq in of valve dia x boost pres. You might need more seat pressure. It would not be valve float at rpms but valve bounce on the seat at high boost. I am not trying to tell you how to do it just giving food for thought.
 
There was a huge discussion about this at turbomustangs.com

I could find it if I look around.

The consensus was there were some guys that had problems and some didn't.

There was all kinds of theory, that YES - the valve does have more pressure on the back side of it, but there is WAY more on the front side, so better springs won't necessarily help.

I am going to run it the way it is unless I have problems.

What I am REALLY curious about is how much carbon and junk is on the back sides of the valves - - - - this bone-stock engine with 1xx,xxx miles smokes a little on let-off, so I know some oil is getting past the guides.
 
There is a guy in St. Louis that is at a lot of the car shows with an older ford with a inline six (don't know what engine) that has a tripple carb set up with turbo. Its fast as hell too, in the mid 9's i believe. And it did fairly well in the reliability and fuel milage run for our local ultimate street rod award. I can't remember if it won or not though.

Brian.
 
Out of interest what would you pay for a 4.0 sohc Ford motor ???
Or 2v 250 head??
From Aussie???
In U.S...
 
XR8240":muuknrkl said:
Out of interest what would you pay for ...

Right now.....Nothing.
I have frozen all "play" expenditures until I close on a house.

I got rained out, so the next test run is going to have to wait. I did get a new digital camera that takes movie clips, so I am going to try it out. (and get some video hosted. The video capture card didn't work.)
 
OK, the rain is gone, and today is a bright, sunny day.

I did a little testing this morning, and I found out that I did get my problems with fuel delivery solved, and it works like magic. See pics and description below.

I was hoping Temple academy dragway in Temple, TX was open Sunday nights, but I guess not. The next time will be Friday, Aug 12th. That works for me, so I'll be there.

I replaced the fuel filter thinking that was the problem, but it wasn't. The inlet needle and seat are the main restriction. I added a fuel solenoid from a nitrous kit to add more fuel to the float bowl as soon as 5 psi is reached.

It works GREAT!!!

fuelsolenoid.jpg


I just used 1/8" nylon oil pressure line, it is what I had lying around. You can see the fuel solenoid plumbed into the brass "T" for the fuel line, and the green arrow is where fuel comes out of the solenoid under boost. The red arrow shows the fitting where I drilled and tapped into the cover of the ol' Holley model 1946. I am not using a jet of any kind, just whatever fuel can flow through that 1/8" nylon line is what fuel is "metered" into the top of the float chamber when the solenoid opens.

Here is the fuel regulator:

AEROregulator.jpg


It is Aeromotive. I got it really cheap on ebay (like $25?) because the idiot that listed it listed it very simply as "fuel regulator" or something, I was one of only two people bidding. It is worth much more.

There is a lot going on in the picture.
1) The orange wire is positive power to the booost switch, set at 5 psi.
2) The white wire sends power to the fuel solenoid under boost
3) The green arrow is the fuel supply to the regulator.
4) The orange arrow is fuel going to the carburetor fuel "T" where the fuel solenoid is located.
5) The red arrow is fuel return back to the 5 gallon cell.

6) The blue coiled tubing is air hose, used from the carb bonnet to the white plastic "T", where boost then goes to both the top of the regulator for boost reference, and to the small black boost switch.


One other thing I noticed today.........I re-wired my tach so I can see what my rpm's are at when it shifts....4200!!!!
NO, I AM NOT GOING TO HURT MY VALVE SPRINGS at only 4200!! Hahaha!

Dang, that means that version 1.1 isn't going to be anywhere near its potentntial when I get back to the track for the baseline runs. At 4200 rpm's, it is just getting going!! Does anyone know how to raise the shift points on a stock 1984 C5 that was behind a 3.8 CFI V-6?? If I could get the RPM's up to 5,500 beforeit shifts, that will make the car much faster. I do NOT have the vacuum modulator hooked up, since it is just a "race" car for now. (yes, that means I have to drive in first gear to and from the side street 4 blocks away to do my "test runs")

I will probably leave the trans as is, and get some baseline runs. I am expecting HUGE gains when the C4 is swapped in with the TCI Street fighter torque conveter. My buddy Joseph picked up a C4/3000 converter for his 2.3 turbo Mustang, so the race will be on who gets his done first - Hahaha! ;)


Oh yeah, and for those who want to know, I have the Holley "Red" pump feeding directly into a Master E2182 EFI pump (from a 1986 F-150 or something? It is the frame mount one, not the in-tank one - - - and it was FREEEE!!! See "project turbo six rules" on the first page...)
 
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