Rocker Arm Shaft Oiling hints

Hot 6t Falcon

Well-known member
Departed Member
I see - and get - lots of questions about Rocker Arm Shaft Oiling. So here are some pictures and hints.

ADDED BACKGROUND INFO
If you have a ‘60 or ‘61 rocker arm shaft assembly on your engine, READ THIS!
It clearly points out that the rocker shaft has had oiling problems since day one.

While digging through old HOT ROD magazines, I came across an article on “Oil Controlâ€￾ in the January 1963 issue of HOT ROD. In it, they talk about the oiling situation existing in Comet/Falcon rocker shaft setups.

It says: “Remove the rear rocker stand bolt and grind off the top three threads (not the end three) near the bolt’s shank. It seems the threaded portion of the bolt is too long, and extends up into the interior of the rocker stand, which has an oversized hole to permit the oil to flow to the rocker shaft. The threads extending up into this area restrict it and slow the oil flow. This condition was corrected in 1962 by use of a new rocker stand with a square bolt hole, which gives adequate oil clearance around the bolt. This new rocker stand is part number C1DE-6531-A and maybe installed in the ’60 and ’61 Comet or Falcon engine.â€￾

This would help get the oil that is already in the head into the rocker shaft, BUT… IMHO the new rocker stand was not a sufficient fix. Later, FoMoCo added head bolts with a reduced shank to get more oil from the block to the head. Besides using the reduced shank head bolt, I’ve also drilled the rearmost rocker stand out a little – even though it was already a “square holeâ€￾ stanchion.
If you have the head off, look at Simon’s excellent pictures.


I soaked my disassembled rockers and shaft in parts cleaner for two days. The oiling holes were still clogged. So I soaked them in carb cleaner for three days. STILL CLOGGED!

So I took a drill bit to them. Now having done a half dozen rock shaft assemblies, I don't even bother with the soaks - I just use a drill bit with my fingers. DON'T use an electric drill!

Here are three pictures out of The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder Performance Handbook.

The first is showing the oil path out of the block and into the head. You may also have to pull the number 11 head bolt and clean that hole down to the oil passage.
AoilSystem.jpg


Next Is showing the oil passage in the head. IF you have the head off, clean this thoroughly.

CHeadOilPass.jpg


Now comes a rocker arm and cleaning its passages. These are non-adjustable rockers. On an adjustable rocker, you'll need to back out the adjusting bolt most of the way so you can get to its lubricating hole.

CRockerArm.jpg


ARockerArmCleaning.jpg


You could also use a late model (70's) bolt in an early (60's) engine. They allow more oil through the head's passageway. Here's a picture of the difference.
CHeadBolts.jpg


There's more stuff in the Handbook, but I hope this helps many. The next time you take your valve cover off, start the engine, and check your oil flow. You may find that this afternoon cleaning project is just what you need to do.

Good Luck
 
I thought I´d chime in with some pics of mine to back Dennis´ advice.

here you can see how far I have widened, rounded and smoothed the existing transition in the head. The corrsponding groove on the block has also been modified accordingly.

funneled.jpg


rather than scrounging half the old continent for the shanked head bolt, I stuck with ARP 289-302 main bolts and widened the bolt hole rather than grinding a flat side. double check with a head gasket as a template so you don´t go to far and break into the sealing surface.

bolt.jpg


It only needs to be opened up as far to reach the small transition that leads into the rearmost shaft pedestal.

passage.jpg



the rearmost rocker arm pedestal can stand some attention as well. already a tight fit with the original shanked bolt, oil flow would have been seriously restricted with ARP fasteners. In any case, oil flow will benefit from a nice, widening cleanup of the bolt hole using the dremel.
 
My two cents' worth: over the years, I've discovered the "plugged oil hole" syndrome is much worse on engines using Pennzoil and Quaker State oils, if the car is run with 160 or 180 thermostats and driven short distances frequently. The paraffin that Pennsylvania crude oil contains turns into a greasy wax that builds up everywhere, sometimes blocking passages.

If you always drive until the engine is fully warmed up (say, 15 miles or more in city traffic one-way), the problem is less pronounced. If you live where it is cold a lot, this makes it worse, too. I have removed as much as 3/4" of this "wax" from timing covers many times.

Valvoline, Castrol, Havoline and synthetics don't do this.
 
MarkP":2w02yczn said:
My two cents' worth: over the years, I've discovered the "plugged oil hole" syndrome is much worse on engines using Pennzoil and Quaker State oils, if the car is run with 160 or 180 thermostats and driven short distances frequently. The paraffin that Pennsylvania crude oil contains turns into a greasy wax that builds up everywhere, sometimes blocking passages.

If you always drive until the engine is fully warmed up (say, 15 miles or more in city traffic one-way), the problem is less pronounced. If you live where it is cold a lot, this makes it worse, too. I have removed as much as 3/4" of this "wax" from timing covers many times.

Valvoline, Castrol, Havoline and synthetics don't do this.

I don't believe this to be an issue anymore. I believe that all American oil comes from Saudi now, so there's not much difference between brands.
 
Great info Hot 6T Falcon.
After the oil passages are open, may I suggest going with Amsoil synthetic or Mobil One synthetic oil. Amsoil has a very high additive total base number (12.2) and will actually clean your engine. I would recommend flushing your motor first - then change oil with a cheap filter.
Change the filter after 500 miles to a good one. Amsoil, K&N, and Mobile One all make excellent filters designed for synthetic oil. Unless you already have a leaking engine, these oils will not create seal leakage like they did years ago. If you prefer a conventional oil, I would recommend Castrol GTX but change evry 3000 miles. The synthetics recommended are good for a year with a 6 month filter change. Here is a link to an oil comparison test.

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/index.aspx
 
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