wideband installed

K

kirkallen143

Famous Member
Howdy All,
Well been working alot of overtime, and had enough to spend on a wideband control, it's a UEGO 30-4100 "stand-alone" gauge. Got it all hooked up and with the 65 jets in it now I idle at 11.4afr and at WOT it is more like 10.0afr. Just barely off the throttle I get a reading of 15-17afr, but once into the throttle it goes down to @ 12afr at cruise. I went ahead and installed the 60jets and the idle is alittle above 11.6afr, and I have not had a chance to check WOT. That's where I'm at so far and as ususal keep ya updated.

Kirk
ps. checked my mpg's the other day and I am getting better than 15 mpg and that is basically city/stop-n-go driving.
And here is basically the finished bronco.

 
15mpg has to be good for a bronco I would assume. I am suprised to see someone else running smallish jets (I have 62 or 63's in mine right now) I think with a force fed motor that maybe you could run leaning mains and drill the PV channels out a little to fatten it up under boost?
 
turbo_fairlane_200":3ozhhm0p said:
15mpg has to be good for a bronco I would assume. I am suprised to see someone else running smallish jets (I have 62 or 63's in mine right now) I think with a force fed motor that maybe you could run leaning mains and drill the PV channels out a little to fatten it up under boost?
Click to expand...

Yes you are right, I now have the pvcr's @ 0.081". I might even restrict the IFR's down about 0.010" and open the ABR's 0.060". It really depends on what the engine's AFR is at WOT w/ the 60 jets in it now. What I really should do is buy the fancy metering block from holley that has all these channels adjustable using bleeds. I believe William (wsa111) is using this metering block now, from one of his pics I've seen.

Kirk
 
so how do you liek the gauge? I have been lookign around for some type of wideband, but I have soo many things to buy...
 
well Tommy maybe you need to find yourself a sugga mamma to buy you some car parts.

I was going ot go and progress my blowthrough setup but I am really leaning towards just focusing on a EFI setup on a new motor with mikes new head. going to be going that direction anyway so figured why bother with making the blow through better.....it is still tons of fun to drive as is
 
hasa68mustang":1m8yr4wu said:
so how do you liek the gauge? I have been lookign around for some type of wideband, but I have soo many things to buy...
Click to expand...

Tommy, I just put it in yesterday and so far so good. It is really nice to have an actual number to verify AFR instead of just a line/light going rich to lean. I believe with shipping and all from e-bay it was $256.00.

Kirk
 
After I jetted down to #60's, the WOT still runs in the 10's on AFR and I can get it to cruise around 14ish only at certain throttle positions. Just barely touching the throttle gives the 14.5-14.9 AFR, but I still get that fluctuation of the gauge, bouncing b/tw 13.4 to 17 AFR readings during normal cruise. Could this be a fluttering PV, it is only at about 2-3psi of boost when it happens. I still have the 6.5 PV in there and it is good last time I checked. Would a bad PV read this way, fluctuating like that on the gauge? Linc, any ideas?

Kirk
 
kirkallen143":3sz4a6to said:
Could this be a fluttering PV, it is only at about 2-3psi of boost when it happens. I still have the 6.5 PV in there and it is good last time I checked. Would a bad PV read this way, fluctuating like that on the gauge? Linc, any ideas?
Click to expand...

No, The power valve opens at 6.5 inches of vacuum, so any lower vacuum and into boost that sucker is wide open, no fluttering.

It could be any number of things, from bad intake manifold distribution to turbulence over the carb bleeds. If it drives fine I wouldn't get too worried about the numbers.
 
Where is your wideband sensor at??? It needs to be about 3-4 feet downstream of the turbine
 
Linc's 200":2chu7kyy said:
Where is your wideband sensor at??? It needs to be about 3-4 feet downstream of the turbine
Click to expand...

Really? I have it about 12" from the turbine. Could the be a gauge/o2 sensor local, huh. I'll move it on down stream and try it then. Thanks Linc for the heads up.

Kirk
 
You probably didn't hurt it, but wideband O2's can't hack the heat like a stock one can.
 
Over at TurboMustangs forum, they go from 6" and to back behind the tranny on their o2 location. It really all depends on what the sensor can handle temp-wise. No one really had a set distance from the turbo back.

Kirk
 
from this website:
http://wbo2.com/lsu/default.htm

" Sensors should be placed so they are not overheated (gas temp not above 750 °C, nor cooled beyond the ability of the heater to maintain their working temperature (~10 Watts). "
 
750C =1382F

Pretty easy to go over that on a hard run if too close to the turbo
 
Linc's 200":192sjdxg said:
750C =1382F

Pretty easy to go over that on a hard run if too close to the turbo
Click to expand...

I found the install directions yesterday and it says to have the sensor at least 3 foot behind the turbo. I will do and see if it changes anything, hopefully that might be the oscillating problem I have now w/ the gauge. Appreciate the help Linc, I owe you a cold one or a bottle of vodka (those russian women...WOW). Later.

Kirk
 
I don't know if it'll change anything as far as the readings, but it'll make the sensor last longer.

Lol...I drive through Navasota all the time but am usually in a hurry to get from one place to another.....one of these days!
 
Howdy,

Started playing with the idle air mix screws, upped the idle to @ 800rpm, now it is idling at 13.7:1 AFR (14.7:1 is optimum)...I can live with that. This is w/ the #60 jets. Now I have that little flat spot, again, when you hit the throttle, so back to the squirter (there is a 0.028" in it now).

Hey on a side note, if you need anything, and I mean anything for a holley carb, go to www.blp.com. They even have a sleeve for when you strip out the squirter threads as I have done before on the 500 cfm holley I used to have on this engine. If I would have known before, it would have saved me buying this carb I have now...$7.00 vs. $259.00.

Kirk
ps. and yes the clearence on the pump arm is to spec--0.010" to 0.015" gap
 
kirkallen143":9672ayip said:
yes the clearence on the pump arm is to spec--0.010" to 0.015" gap
Click to expand...

I think I usually set mine to zero. been a while.
 
Linc's 200":3cp3ra8s said:
kirkallen143":3cp3ra8s said:
yes the clearence on the pump arm is to spec--0.010" to 0.015" gap
Click to expand...

I think I usually set mine to zero. been a while.
Click to expand...

Heck that might work, because the lean spot is right when you hit the accelerator then is comes down to @ 13.9:1 immediatly after. Maybe just need that extra shot sooner.

I am going to go ahead and restrict the IFR's (Idle Feed Restrictors) with some 0.010" brass rod I have and then open the IAB's (Idle Air Bleeds) to compensate. If I am getting too rich while cruising the upper rpms, then I will have to open up the HSAB's (High Speed Air Bleeds) to allow no extra fuel until say 2800-2900 rpm. I'll let ya know what happens.

Kirk
 
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