$50 paint job

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I think I got Saturday free....I have the doors and fenders off my stang.
I thing I will try just a fender, that really don't look bad at all for 75$
 
I know this is basically Rust-Oleum thinned with mineral spirits.

I want to try this on my red 1980 Mustang.

Anyone know what its effect would be on the enduraflex rubberized plastic nose?

Im thinking the plastic/rubber stuff and the mineral spirits wont play well together.
 
Hi all, here's an update on the almost finished Corvair. All that's left is to buff the gloss back up, and reassemble the car. I used a little over two quarts of paint, total. Man, that was a LOT of wet sanding. Stinger stripe came out nice! Next car I do (probably the Alfa) will definitely be done in my garage with a roller.

Engine cover:

stripehood2.jpg


Trunk:

stripetrunk2.jpg


Whole car (Squire in the background, to make this a Ford post):

stripes1.jpg


It looked like this, two weeks ago:

vairbeforepaint.jpg


Rick(wrench)
 
Good work!

I was trying to find something about T-5 installs on your website the other day (and failed). Made me realise though, how much you have up - what a great asset it is, too. When you retire a site index may be in order!

Cheers, Adam.
 
Hey Addo,
Yeah, I know, it's:
"Here's a pic of my Ford flywheel...here's a pic of my Alfa pressure plate, they fit together... trust me..."
I -really- need to clean up the old site. A lot of the info there is kind of... half there, half assumed. Someday this winter (that would be SUMMER to you lucky Aussies) I'll sit down on a rainy, freezing cold day, and try to update all the pages with complete info that requires no (or maybe just minimal) guessing.
Rick
 
Rick,

You used the Rustoleum for that Corvair? :shock:

It looks fantastic!!!

You may have to do a more detailed post on your technique some time. That really came out nice!
 
Rick,

I just checked out your website and I see you have more details there. I will be very curious to see pictures after the final buff-out.

Just curious... Would this be a good short-term method to use? I had always planned to have the car professionally painted someday when the body work is done, but the cost was going to cause me to have a cheaper paint job or wait a couple of years to build up a paint fund.

I am thinking I could do this as a band-aid after I get the rest of the front end sheetmetal repaired/replaced and then wait a couple of years to build that paint budget (I am tired of having a multi-colored car). Would doing this cause problems for the painters down the road?
 
From what I've read on the moparts.com forum, there hasn't been much trouble removing (or just painting over) the cheap paint if it has been thinned properly. I thinned about 50/50 paint to mineral spirits. This made each layer, well, pretty darned thin! Each layer dries completely between coats when the paint is thin enough. It took 5 coats to get full coverage, and then 2 more for good measure. If you were to get impatient with the amount of coats it takes to get full coverage and roll the rustoleum on unthinned, you'd have a mess on your hands.
Unthinned rustoleum would probably take several weeks, per coat, to effectively dry, if at all. This is where all the warnings from pro paint guys are true. Unthinned, the stuff will gum and ball up when sanded, and just be a disaster in general. Unthinned, It would still come off with chemical strippers, no problem, but jeez what a mess.
Thinned and dry, you can sand it right off with no gumming or balling up.

The process and paint appealed to me for several reasons:
It's cheap
It requires minimal skill
There is almost no masking
No special equipment
When I hit cones (and I will), I can touch up any dings, very easily.

Just make sure you thin the paint, and let it get good and dry between coats and sanding. This time of year, getting two coats a day to dry will be iffy. It is what it is, a low budget paint job requiring very little money or equipment, and not much skill, but a lot of time and patience... and sanding.
I'm quite happy with my results now. We'll see what it looks like in a few years. I'm sure Rustoleum white will still be available in 2010, though.
Rick(wrench)
 
I don't know if I'll actually do it, but the idea does fascinate me... or the cheapskate in me.

Don't get me wrong, I would love to have a body shop give my car the works and then put a $5000 paint job on it, but the practical side of me then imagines the stroke I would have when the first stone chip appears.

IF I am to do this, I would study that 40 something page thread. I have skimmed it and it is full of good lessons learned. Next, it wouldn't be till next Summer. I still have bodywork to get done (I need to hang the new fenders and valence panel and I need new shock towers, some front frame rail patching and maybe cowl repairs).

Honestly though, I am afraid that the final outcome will not meet my expectations. I am kind of a perfectionist and have owned this car for 19 years and have tried to to skimp anywhere whenever possible. I would hate to put all this time and effort into it and then have a orange peel covered mess. I will have to see what the results look like in person to truly convince me.

What I plan to do is save the best of the two fenders (and they are both pretty bad) and try it as though I was painting the actual car (all the way to polishing with Porter Cable 7424 6" Orbital Polisher and some pro-grade polish). If it looks good...who knows.
 
Oh yeah, there is one other problem too.

Inside the cowl, the paint has started peeling/flaking like crazy. Since the cowl cover is not removable... how would I clean up the old flaking paint and then get new paint down there?

Also, can you get this stuff custom mixed to match colors? I would like to keep the car as close to Vintage Burgundy as possible....
 
I'd be highly surprised if it can't be tinted with regular enamel tinters.

As to the inner cowl - always a good one. No real subsitute for patience.
 
Also, can you get this stuff custom mixed to match colors? I would like to keep the car as close to Vintage Burgundy as possible....

In CA, Rustoleum quarts are available in only six or seven basic colors.
Before you do this, you should really sit down for a few hours and read the moparts forum thread, in 2 pieces, on the subject (link in first post). It's 80+ pages and much is rehashing, but it contains info, experiments, and results from dozens that have tried this. With good and bad results.
I really wasn't expecting much, other than a car that -wasn't- 99 different colors joined together by surface rust. Something I could park on the street without embarrassment. I was mildy surprised at the hood test, and even more so by the finished car. I think it turned out great. I did use white, which, according to the moparts thread, is the easiest color to do. Thin with mineral spirits, no matter what the can says.
Your results may vary.
Rick(wrench)
 
most inner cowls have overspray in there. that's about it. i don't think they were painted originally other than that. :unsure:
 
That's been my impression; just the factory primer that was applied prior to panels being spotwelded together, and any overspray on top of that.
 
I was planning on seriously studing that post. I have skimmed most of it at least twice (once a few months ago, then again in the last day or two) and your right, there is a lot of hard earned knowledge and experience mixed in with a lot of repetition.

I am guessing I will have to do some sort of media blast to clean the flaking (If I have time tomorrow, I'll take a picture). Then, perhaps I could mix some up and use a Preval to spray down into the cowl vent to protect the area...
 
I buffed out the Corvair today. It came out very glossy. I also started putting it back together. 3rd pic down has Ford six content.

polished5.jpg


polished2.jpg


polished1.jpg


polished4.jpg


Rick(wrench)
 
Rick, I'm direct linking to your paint page for another forum's edification. I'll also provide the main link.
 
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