I recently bought a E0BE-6090-BB cylinder head with a cast date of 2H19 (August 19, 1982) to rebuild. I paid $25 for the head and brought it to the machinist to get hot tanked and magnafluxed. It was in good shape and has never been rebuilt.
I found a place north of Seattle that specializes in cast iron repair and got the port divider welded in. The uneven part of the weld should be gone as I'm getting the exhaust port surfaces milled flat.
I also had him fill in an exhaust manifold bolt hole that was almost stripped and was missing a good part of the tab from when it was cast. I'll bring in a manifold so he can drill and tap a new hole and get it properly aligned.
There was also a large hole and two bolt holes under the carb base that had an EGR device attached. I had him fill this in as well. I had originally cut the base off the EGR piece and ground it flat. I was going to bolt it on with a gasket and somehow get a fitting in the large hole but I can now just drill and tap for whatever fitting I decide to use to draw vacuum for the PCV and tranny modulator. There was also a tiny crack from the carb opening to the EGR opening that he repaired.
He heated the head to a dull red and did the welding (using cast iron rods) while it was in a smaller brick oven with torches blowing in on each side to keep it hot. It then went back in the furnace for a slow cool down. The place was called "Cast Iron Repair Specialists" and the guy really knew what he was doing. It cost $100 but was worth it to me.
I've done a lot of searching on this forum and have the latest edition of the "Performance Handbook" but wanted to run my "to do" list by everyone here to see if you have any comments. I plan to do most of my porting and polishing before I take it to the machinist. The guy specializes in heads and I get a feeling that he will do a great job.
Parts supplied:
- Oversized stainless steel valves (1.5" exhaust, 1.75" intake)
- Teflon valve seals
- Head gasket
- Exhaust manifold (to position new bolt hole)
1 - Install hardened valve seats.
2 - Three-angle valve job (Top Cut: 30°, Valve Seat: 45°, Bottom Cut: 60°).
3 - Undercut intake valve 30° (do not undercut exhaust valves).
4 - Install bronze valve guides.
5 - Machine for teflon valve seals.
6 - Unshroud valves (I will smooth the chambers and even volumes).
7 - Mill head .030 to .060 as needed.
8 - Mill exhaust port surfaces as needed.
9 - Drill and tap under carburetor base for vacuum fitting.
10 - Drill and tap front tab for exhaust manifold bolt.
11 - Mill carburetor base surface as much as possible.
Thanks in advance for any comments...
I found a place north of Seattle that specializes in cast iron repair and got the port divider welded in. The uneven part of the weld should be gone as I'm getting the exhaust port surfaces milled flat.
I also had him fill in an exhaust manifold bolt hole that was almost stripped and was missing a good part of the tab from when it was cast. I'll bring in a manifold so he can drill and tap a new hole and get it properly aligned.
There was also a large hole and two bolt holes under the carb base that had an EGR device attached. I had him fill this in as well. I had originally cut the base off the EGR piece and ground it flat. I was going to bolt it on with a gasket and somehow get a fitting in the large hole but I can now just drill and tap for whatever fitting I decide to use to draw vacuum for the PCV and tranny modulator. There was also a tiny crack from the carb opening to the EGR opening that he repaired.
He heated the head to a dull red and did the welding (using cast iron rods) while it was in a smaller brick oven with torches blowing in on each side to keep it hot. It then went back in the furnace for a slow cool down. The place was called "Cast Iron Repair Specialists" and the guy really knew what he was doing. It cost $100 but was worth it to me.
I've done a lot of searching on this forum and have the latest edition of the "Performance Handbook" but wanted to run my "to do" list by everyone here to see if you have any comments. I plan to do most of my porting and polishing before I take it to the machinist. The guy specializes in heads and I get a feeling that he will do a great job.
Parts supplied:
- Oversized stainless steel valves (1.5" exhaust, 1.75" intake)
- Teflon valve seals
- Head gasket
- Exhaust manifold (to position new bolt hole)
1 - Install hardened valve seats.
2 - Three-angle valve job (Top Cut: 30°, Valve Seat: 45°, Bottom Cut: 60°).
3 - Undercut intake valve 30° (do not undercut exhaust valves).
4 - Install bronze valve guides.
5 - Machine for teflon valve seals.
6 - Unshroud valves (I will smooth the chambers and even volumes).
7 - Mill head .030 to .060 as needed.
8 - Mill exhaust port surfaces as needed.
9 - Drill and tap under carburetor base for vacuum fitting.
10 - Drill and tap front tab for exhaust manifold bolt.
11 - Mill carburetor base surface as much as possible.
Thanks in advance for any comments...