Rebuilding Cylinder Head

Redfalken":1v65pyw6 said:

1) I got some 7/16" - 20 but they seem like the wrong thread??

2) Next, I bought a set of ARP head studs and got the part number 132-4001 (for the set with hex head nuts) from customer service off their website. I was going to put one through the head to see how it looked but it's too thick for the hole. The box lists it for Chevy Inline Six, `62 and up.

3) Last thing, would it be a good idea to repair or replace the spark plug threads?

4) Also, do you chamfer the surface where the plugs seat? Is it a 45 degree angle?

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1) Don't guess....use a thread pitch guage to be SURE

2) Why would you bother trying Chevy studs?

3) just run the correct 18mm tap through them (make sure it is the RIGHT 18mm tap!)

4) the seats are fine. They are just slightly rough, they won't leak.

I used a thread gauge before I bought the nuts and the adjuster seems like a 20, so do the nuts. I can thread a nut on by hand to where the threads come all the way through but then it really starts to get tight. I attempted a few turns with a wrench but it's pretty darned tight.

The part number for the studs was given to me by ARP customer service. I didn't know they were specified for Chevy's until I had the box in my hands. I have a catalog now and see they list a "Ford Inline 6, 240-300 cid" as part number 152-4001. Anyone know if these work on a 200?

Redfalken":38eatrzv said:

I have a catalog now and see they list a "Ford Inline 6, 240-300 cid" as part number 152-4001. Anyone know if these work on a 200?

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I don't think ANY parts will swap between a 170-200 and the 240-300 family.

I got mine from FSPP, they work fine, but you can't thread the very front pass side stud down too far in the block or it will hit the water pump impeller!