$50 paint job

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There is a LOT of repetition and overdetail, but every now and then there's a great moment. My favorite is about a third of the way through, where some guy with nowhere to paint his car gets up early in the morning then rolls a coat or two in a Home Depot parking lot!
 
Yeah, its my favourite too! I just break out laughing when I think about it. I'm typing slow, but it's because I'm laughing too much right now about that one! :LOL:
 
What about the beer fridge guy? That wasn't as funny in its telling, but the Tom Sawyer way he just lavished and went on over its progress! :D
 
I'm getting my new floorpans replaced as I type, and I was thinking about how to paint them before installing the carpet and this thread got me thinking

Obviously I'm not worried about gloss and shine. Should I thin to make a quicker drying time or straight out of the can for a thicker coat?? Instead of a 50/50 what about less mineral spirits 70/30??

What about sanding between coats???

Would this work for the exterior underside as well?? Once again not needing a "look" as much as protection
 
If its the floorpan only, I'd put it on like you said 70/30 for the first coat, and then full or near full strength for one or two more coats. I noticed in mine that there's just light oxidation after 28 years with only primer under the original underlay. Where it didn't have the underlay, the sandy grit does eventually pierce the primer and the rust wants to start to take root. Once you get the rust off, a few decent coats would probably keep the beast in good shape.

Since the tarred felt underlay didn't allow air to get to the lower floor pan, I'll use something like a fibrous rooftar over the paint, then put new underlay, then the carpets. We have a lot of snow and road salt, which does melt with the heater and soaks down, which may not be an issue for you. I figure the tighter i keep the air away, the less I'll have to watch the interior floor, and concentrate more of keeping it off the exterior of the floorpan with undercoating, etc.
 
I wonder how flat colors look with this roller method?
I'm pondering doing something like this on my beater truck.

Flat black

Frank
 
I know this is nutty .. but i never thought about it before... if the color is flat you would still be able to buff it to protect the paint but not to polish it to a shine?Crap ....I'm so confused....

I rather have a eggshell look than a old primer look.

Frank
 
Frank, you can get the Eggshell look from a seaside beach. It's called seagull poop! Seattle, Vancouver, LA, etc. :eek:

I read somewhere that a shiny car gets about 3 MPG more than a dusty one. IIRC.
 
I wouldn't dismiss it that fast, but 3MPG sounds very optimistic. There's a lot of surface area for consideration.
 
Wallaka, I have to concede that you may be right. The search I just did on Google pulled up all kinds of articles and forums usually sponsored by car wax companies.

I did find on blog for boaters, that claims up to 16% more efficiency if thee hull is polished (comment by Barry near the bottom of the page:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/003999.html

Another one makes claims, but no documentation:
http://www.wanderings.net/books/node/316/

And the most recognized association, Car Care Council, avoids the Efficiency claim, but reinforces vehicle value.
http://www.carcare.org/Articles/wash_wax.shtml

I did it religiously on my Fuel Dragsters, when I was young and dumb, and kept the habit, so I don't have any comparable evidence at normal speeds. Mea Culpa.
 
Well, in land speed racing it makes no difference in the speed if the car is smoothly waxed or not. If in that situation, where aerodynamics are the most important, that little bit doesn't matter, there is no way it will improve a measureable amount at slower speeds.

I know, apples and oranges and all that. But drag is drag, and at highway speeds I feel there would be no gain. Heck, adding a bed topper on a truck might net 3 mpg, and that's a big change in the aerodynamics.

Guess my post sounded a little more hostile than I intended, should have put a smiley there.
 
wallaka, No pain, no gain, man. It was an interesting search, though. I learned a lot about waxes, washing cleaners, do's and dont's. Even found a Ford Dealership with tips for cleaning Capris, giving part numbers for Official Ford cleaners and wax, weatherstrip lubricants and emergency brake cable lubricants.

http://www.midcomustang.com/capricarcaretips.shtml

Thanks for the challenge! Better that than perpetuating a myth, right?
 
The comment about the polished hull on boats is interesting. I spent a summer about 9-10 years ago running around with an SST-45 tunnel hull race boat.

Interesting toys... at the time the class was fiberglass/wood/carbon fiber construction 13' hydroplane, had to be over 700 lbs with driver with a 45ci outboard. They can run over 80mph if set up correctly. (http://www.sst45.com/seriesinfo.shtml if you're interested)

Anyway, there was one guy who pretty much dominated the circuit that year. Late in the season one of the people with us on the trip noticed that the bottom of this guy's boat was substantially smoother that most. You could run your hand across it and notice how much less friction there was than across say... ours :) Seems like that might be valid for boats, at least...
 
Hot Rod magazine just covered this in the latest issue....they painted up a round body falcon. It's a good read!
 
We don't have the HRM out yet, up here in snow land! It is snowing today, BTW. :cry:

Are they using other materials? The Stock Paint color I want is a new one called Chestnut Brown (27002) by Rustoleum's Canadian brand Tremclad (what the MoParts.org guy used. They told me in April that the orders were going to be in Stores by mid-May. Still not in. :unsure:
 
I'm interested in doing the underhood area and underneath the fenders with this process. will the rustoleum hold up to high temperatures and dirt/rocks?
 
Doofnoil, they do make a High Heat paint. I used their Rust Reformer before priming the underside of the fenders. Mine has those PVC inner fender wells, but after I took them off, I got in there to nuke the rest of the surface rust, after cleaning off the metal from dust and tar. I'll just use the black rust paint to spray over the primer.

The Rust Reformer is a rust converter (makes it inactive or if you like, kills the rust fungus). Follow the instructions on the can.

Here's the US link:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGBrand.asp?bid=2
 
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