Mill'd head Time Slip

Drag-200stang,
the shift points seem to change with boost, I'm not sure why either, at 10 psi the motor fell off @ 5K rpm 14 psi 5200 rpm, 18 psi 5400-5500 rpm.
I konw I have some push rod deflection issues, and need to order good ones, as for the timing chain issues I hesitate to bring it up, I know someone on here will call me out on it, but here is the scoop seems only one manufacture makes the lower gears (lower crank gear) for most if not all aftermarket companies, (Cloyes, Sealed power, Schucks and Auto Zone brands,) and they are using powedered metal to do so, I couldn't find out what counrty they're built in prob. China, well there process is/must be less then desirable and they are weak, they split at the keyway, this is not just a 250 six issue according to the rep I talked with it is an issue, the cure was, I dug through my old stock Ford used stuff and put a stock Ford crank gear in it, problem solved!!!!!
 
I and others appreciate info regardless if it doesent always please everyone , on my 250 I used a narrow setup that ak miller recomended way back in the early 70s , I tracked all my parts down by the mid 80s and was just curious about your combo , is it the wide as most 250s or narrow ?
 
Wide 1" 1975 issue style chain, I didn't research the 5/8" chain, if one could get a 5/8" chain/gears with the same cam retard built in, it would be worth looking at, I needed that retard to get the cam degreed in, early chain set the cam at 98 deg. late chain put it at something like 114, Clay Smith said 108 so that is what it got set at, sure would be nice to have an aftermarket set-up.. HINT HINT MIKE!!!!!!! I would pay good money for a good chain setup,, AK Miller knew what he was doing just think what he could have done with one of Mikes heads, I'm going back to the track on Sept 6th to play again, might even bolt on my street slicks from the Ranchero, stock 28 spline C-clip axles scare me a little though, if one broke on the line I'd be ok with it, it's the 1000 foot mark break that I'd hate.. what do you guys think about another run on the dyno for this thing, I'm thinking about 400-425 hp and close to 500 ft lbs to the wheels, is it sits now..
 
new ET and MPH
60 2.315
330 5.690
1/8 8.289
mph 95.55
1000 10.497
1/4 12.332
mph 123.49

ran pump gas with a can of 108 octane booster, bumped boost to 19 lbs
I had a better run going (2.033 60 ft) but missed a shift, last run of the night the clutch started slipping only got 4 runs, I thought I had a good clutch in thing (Centerforce Dual Friction) I guess the torq. and the 3.08 gears killed it...
 
fast64ranchero":19z28wfh said:
I know I have some push rod deflection issues, and need to order good ones
Walt, I have some Heavy Duty 9.125" Chrome Moly Ball/Ball pushrods in stock. I had four sets custom made by Clay Smith, as one set is going in my new 250ci. Price is $90 bucks.

as for the timing chain issues I hesitate to bring it up, I know someone on here will call me out on it, but here is the scoop seems only one manufacture makes the lower gears (lower crank gear) for most if not all aftermarket companies, (Cloyes, Sealed power, Schucks and Auto Zone brands,) and they are using powedered metal to do so, I couldn't find out what counrty they're built in prob. China, well there process is/must be less then desirable and they are weak, they split at the keyway, this is not just a 250 six issue according to the rep I talked with it is an issue, the cure was, I dug through my old stock Ford used stuff and put a stock Ford crank gear in it, problem solved
I've been talking with two companies and plan to make a multi-keyway billet steel crank gear for the stock timing chain sets, since we can't get a double roller chain.
 
Is the rear end a stock F150 8.8"? Shortened maybe? Sounds like you snagged one from a '87-'91 model truck. Awesome on reaching 120mph with a streetable machine :D
 
Fairmonts are the first Fox Chassis cars, so I used late model stang parts for the suspension, it has an 8.8 out of a 89 stang with ranger axles and drums (5 lug)
 
NICE!!! When are you planning on being back at Firebird? I would love to see this car run. What did you use to seal the flange directly to the head? And then did you use a gasket or sealer (or both) to seal the manifold to the head flange? I am helping a friend build a similar set up. It's almost ready to go and I want to make sure I can seal the thing. Any tips would be appreciated!
 
I am thinking Hylomar around the intakes and Ultra Copper around the exhaust ports. Permatex claims that Ultra Copper can be used for exhaust manifold gaskets, so I will give it a try. Also, the water jackets are about 1/4" under the flange, so that should help tame some of the heat. If this doesn't work, we might have to go with a gasket. Any suggestions? Of course I would love to o-ring everything, but the layout of the flange and bolts doesn't permit it.
 
It would have been perfect for Multipoint EFI... But we ended up cutting off those two bolt flanges and running all the intakes into a manifold that looks a lot like fast64ranchero's. I'll see if I can get some recent pics up.
 
218224 I used high temp silicone on the head to the flange, and from the flange to the intake/exhuast I used 1/16" Garlock gasket material the intake has been off a few times and the gasket has been re-used, your head looks alot like mine. you been looking at my old posts? Looks nice should run good if the rest of your set up is matched well, if your intke is like mine don't expect to much low end power
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Thanks for the info! Yeah, it's funny because I think we were doing this at the same time you were. I saw your older posts quite a while ago and thought that it was cool that someone else was doing exactly what we were.

The floor of the plenum under the carb is tapered upward as it gets farther away from the head to reduce area and hopefully keep velocity up. That 62-1 you've got is awesome. We're running a much smaller S-3 turbo and a small custom grind from Comp cams. The pistons are forged and the rods and crank are stock. We're shooting for boost by 2000 rpm and peak power by 4000-4500. We will be relying on the quick spooling turbo to make good torque.

It is really encouraging to see your set up working so well. I have a little more faith in the hi-temp silicon now, and I think Hylomar will be more than adequate for the intakes. I'll keep you guys posted on how it turns out.
 
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