lost

now i real give up I was going to change the gear shift that the dist set on and the dum socket and extension falls in how can I get it out. Do I have to remove the oil pan
 
Stang67":1xoy01fo said:
now i real give up I was going to change the gear shift that the dist set on and the dum socket and extension falls in how can I get it out. Do I have to remove the oil pan

If it fell into the hole that the distributor was in, and you can't reach it with pliers or a magnetic tool, then yes, you will need to pull the oil pan.

You have nothing but bad luck with this car.
 
What about water/moisture getting under the dizzy cap?? I agree w/ most and think it's in the ignition system.
 
Yes am starting to see the clear picture now I think after this am just going to move on and get something else am tried of playing around with this car now :eek:
 
Aren't old cars fun!!!! My buddy did the same thing on his 65 302 Mustang not once but twice on the same weekend.

Dropping the pan is not hard. Grab a beer or Irish coffee, depending on the weather, drain the oil, jack the car up, remove the belly bar and then the bolts holding the pan. Make sure to use a new gasket when reinstalling the pan. And don't over torque the bolts to wrap the pan.
 
I’m not taking sides either way, and am not going to say I know exactly what the problem is, BTDT and been wrong. Could it be ignition related…yes, could it be fuel related…yes, just about anything is possible.

My suggestion is/was only to keep it simple. Your car is running down the road (and I assumed normally from what you said) then you ‘break down’. What could be the problem? I doubt the fuel mixture suddenly went out of adjustment, just as I doubt the timing/ignition suddenly went out of adjustment.

I personally am going to start with basic checks of the system, as mentioned by others above. Am I getting fuel flow (check for fuel flow, vacuum/fuel leaks disconnections, loose linkages, etc.)? Am I getting spark (condition of spark plugs, loose wires, vacuum leaks, check for spark at coil and at plugs, etc.)?

I’m not going to go from running fine (again assuming this was the case) to broke down, and then make the jump that my timing must be off, or my fuel mixture must be off…not when it was just running normally. Yes, could have jumped time, could have dropped a valve, but again just about anything is possible. My point is I’m going to start with simple diagnostics not adjustments that can introduce more issues.
 
Took a nice brake and also finish taking the oil pan down and got my tool that fell in it. So I got everything set up rotor facing number 1 spark plug on the dist cap and check my spark plugs and wire and found 2 plugs were bad number 4 and 6 so am going to change them tomorrow when I get the oil pan gasket. I will keep u guys update
 
The other thing on the dizzy to check is the point gap or dwell angle. It doesn't sound like that's your problem with the backfiring, but it does affect the overall performance of the engine. Make sure its gapped correctly.
 
mugsy":3513n16o said:
The other thing on the dizzy to check is the point gap or dwell angle. It doesn't sound like that's your problem with the backfiring, but it does affect the overall performance of the engine. Make sure its gapped correctly.
how do I check to make sure the point gap and dwell angle is right
 
point gap and dwell angle are one and the same. to checkthe gap take the cap off and rotate the motor until the rubbign block onthe points is on th ehigh point of the lobe. Use a feeler gauge, the measurement has to be accurate to 0.001 of an inch, and measure the gap betweenthe two little pads of the points. The *other* way is to buy a dwell meter and hook it up to the dizzy. The tool should come with instruction on how to hook it up.

If you can find an old gearhead (by old I mean older than 45 years old) they should be intimately familiar with measuring and setting points. It was one of the things you had to do to do a tune-up on a car pre-1980-ish.
 
With the pan off you can look up in the number one cylinder and tell when the piston is at top dead center. Its a little different then with the head off but you can then check the timing mark to be sure it has not slipped.
 
69.5Mav":3alufqxh said:
With the pan off you can look up in the number one cylinder and tell when the piston is at top dead center. Its a little different then with the head off but you can then check the timing mark to be sure it has not slipped.
how can I check the timining mark to be sure it has not slipped
 
Look at where the mark on the balancer is compared to the degrree marks on the timing case cover right next to the balancer on the drivers side at the front of the engine looking down fron the top. If the number one piston is at top dead center and the two marks line up + or - 2 degrees you are golden, if not then the balancer has slipped and you should probably replace it.
 
Stang67":84645yyv said:
thanks for the heads up if my balancer did slipped I will be selling this car.
You mean you'd sell the car because you wouldn't want to replace a simple part?
 
Fabion,

I think it would be a good idea at this point to summarize where you're at. In order for someone here to help. they need to know where you started with this car when problems began and what you've done, changed, replaced.

For example,
I can tell from looking at your past threads that it looks like you started with a weber two barrel and 'load-o-matic' distributor (although don't know if this was confirmed...doesn't matter cause you replaced it) ported off manifold vacum by the looks of this pic and the following post:

http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd15 ... 1001-1.jpg

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... ht=#423604

Then at some point you believed you had the 'new' distributor 180* out, and corrected that...then everything was fine according to the following post 'everything good':

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... ht=#425023

Then you started this post that says everything was 'fine' until you broke down in the middle of the road.

I'm not trying to be critical of you, and I understand the frustration (that is a very nice looking ride), but think it's time to draw back a little and get big picture in order to figure out where your problems started and why, cause without the benefit of searching all your posts/threads (takes time and detective work) it's hard to figure out where to go from here, and most suggestions are going to be relative only to what info you have included here. I hesitate to say it might even be worthwhile to start yet another thread giving as much history, background, details and pictures of how you got to where you are now.

Not to keep :deadhorse: , but you mention in one of the other threads that you changed the points, but you don't seem familiar with gapping/dwell settings (maybe you got lucky?), cause that was prior to this thread that starts off with all was fine 'until'....I assume you got acceloration above 30mph that you stated. when you first joined us, you weren't able to do before...again 'all was fine until'??? Point is this thread in itself has listed just about everything that could be a problem, and I'm sure you're mostly concerned about what particular one or more is the problem. I just don't see a path or opportunity for anyone to help you out of this situation without some pull back and reassment (we've got a tiger by the tail approach)...maybe just from what I've compiled you/we/us can...but at the moment I need a break cause just compiling this felt like giving birth :LOL:
Conclusion...think about the new thread but start it off right, and hang in there.
 
Wow Frankenstein u did some investigate and thanks. Sorry for all this it’s just when I get mad I just can’t think straight and say stupid thing and confuse people. Let’s start over from the beginning. When I first posted on here I had a 67 dizzy in the engine then I learn about load o mantic so I got a 68 dizzy. I installed it and my car would not start I had the # 1 piston tdc and rotor pointing at the #1 spark plug on the dizzy cap but the car was still not running right so I change the position of the rotor and it was facing the # 6 spark on the dizzy cap and all was fine for like 3 weeks and then my car breaks down in the middle of the road. I don’t know why but I got the car to start back up and it was running like crap so I was going change the rotor to be facing the #1 spark plug on the dizzy cap and when the Dum socket fell into the oil pan when I was changing the shaft that the dizzy set in I got it out and now am in the process of putting the oil pan back together so I can continues were we left off at.
 
>>I don’t know why but I got the car to start back up and it was running like crap so I was going change the...

Please, elaborate here. List everything to touched from the time you first broke down on the side of the road to the time you got it started again. Did the car start right back up? Did you open the hood and inspect any wires? Any hoses? Which ones? Did you call a tow truck and get it started at a later time.

I just finished reading your whole thread and with a cool head I suspect the solution to your problem(s) is buried in what changes you made at this period of time.
 
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