200ci Echo -1955 Rebuild's His 1965 Mustang 200 I6 Block.

This applies only to 200ci
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OK I have put the carbs on the back burner for the moment: I know I am way ahead of myself but now is a good time to understand some important procedures..

When I close this engine up I will have to start the engine and rev it up to 1500 and 2000 rpm for the first 20 minutes. I understand if I have to shut it down for any reason. I will have to go through priming the oil again.

I will have a new DUI distributor: There is a lot of ""Then"" here so stay wid me..

Q: Can I set initial timing at 14* at the Balancer. Then set the #1 piston on compression cycle to TDC: Then set the rotor to the #1 plug wire. Then hook up vacuum.
Then
Will I be able to start this engine with out problems..?

I plan on blocking the outer 2 carbs with a plate and use my 1v carb to start with along with an electric fuel pump..
If this is a no go procedure, any ideas as to what procedures will give me the best chance at a good engine start.
I'm already concerned about installing the cam. So a good start is needed..

foe some reason my old gun-ho do or die ant what it once was... its mo like woooo wait a minute...wait a minute.. :unsure:
 
echo1955":28123ial said:
I understand if I have to shut it down for any reason. I will have to go through priming the oil again.

Q: Can I set initial timing at 14* at the Balancer. Then set the #1 piston on compression cycle to TDC: Then set the rotor to the #1 plug wire. Then hook up vacuum.
Then
Will I be able to start this engine with out problems..?
I don't think it would require re-priming once it's been started, or even turned over a bunch.

I don't see how you can set #1 @TDC and set 14° @ the balancer.
Do you have some sort of crankshaft twisting tool?

And I would not hook up the vacuum during initial run-in.
 
Easy IF its a points dist , turn the balancer to 14 btdc , make sure its on compression stroke , and poiting at number 1 ,turn on ign , remove dist cap , loosen dist , turn dist clockwise, then stop and turn back , when you see the spark at the points , tighten dist , you can use a test light as well
 
JackFish":94up95l7 said:
echo1955":94up95l7 said:
I understand if I have to shut it down for any reason. I will have to go through priming the oil again.

Q: Can I set initial timing at 14* at the Balancer. Then set the #1 piston on compression cycle to TDC: Then set the rotor to the #1 plug wire. Then hook up vacuum.
Then
Will I be able to start this engine with out problems..?
I don't think it would require re-priming once it's been started, or even turned over a bunch.

I don't see how you can set #1 @TDC and set 14° @ the balancer.
Do you have some sort of crankshaft twisting tool?

And I would not hook up the vacuum during initial run-in.

hahahaha man I cant get nuffen past you. I did have a crankshaft twisting tool, but da udder day taking it out of da crate I dropped it on da ground.
Dang if da Johnson rod dun shattered making it useless.. :mrgreen:


I know to set the timing at 14 BTDC.
I ant never seen or heard of a DUI before I came here.. According to the DUI instructions on a new build you set the #1 to tdc then set the rotor to #1 plug. This left me a bit nervous. I cant afford to spend time cranking. Thus the question..

Now you have relieved some of my concerns. Thank you (y)
With out vacuum advance will the engine turn 2000 rpm with out stress..
 
FalconSedanDelivery":38harwzu said:
Easy IF its a points dist , turn the balancer to 14 btdc , make sure its on compression stroke , and poiting at number 1 ,turn on ign , remove dist cap , loosen dist , turn dist clockwise, then stop and turn back , when you see the spark at the points , tighten dist , you can use a test light as well

You sure have taken a load of concern off my mind.
This is something I clearly understand.
I was more than willing to use the stock carb.
Cant believe I failed to consider using the stock dist.

However even if I had chose to use the stock dist, I still would not have known how to set it…
(y) Using the stock dist is the only choice for me. (y)

Thanks again FalconSedanDelivery.. you were a very very big help... (y)
I will have no hesitation pulling the trigger when time comes...

I realize some of my questions are simple no-brainers for old salts. However after so long an absence from engine work, simple conformation has its own value..
 
After the initial 20-minute break in, how long before you change oil and filter.

What is a good oil to use… on a regular basic for a new build.
 
:) I was always told that after the initial breakin period(20 min at appx 2000 RPM),change the oil and filter after 500 miles.
If this interval has changed,please correct me.
Thanks.
Leo
 
What is a good oil to use… on a regular basic for a new build.

Just about any oil would work you do need to have or add the Zinc (ZDD) content to protect the cam and lifters. :nod: I would also stay from the Snytec type oils until you get some time on the engine so the rings are seated, about 20,000 miles or so.
 
woodbutcher":28iwml6p said:
:) I was always told that after the initial breakin period(20 min at appx 2000 RPM),change the oil and filter after 500 miles.
If this interval has changed,please correct me.
Thanks.
Leo

woodbutcher: The last time I had my hands inside an engine block was in 1971, and they were a 350 Chevy a 325 Chevy and One was ether a 260 or 280 something? Ford. These were all performance boat engines. Clay Smith did all the machine work.
His work was unbelievably hospital clean.

So if spec requirement has changed since then I would be the last person to know it…and even if I had known, my current memory bank has changed it’s combination lock and I cant seem to find where I hid it.. :mrgreen:

I was thinking after the 20 min at 2000rpm I would run it for about another 20 minutes at some sort of idle rev idle rev then change the filter..
Your 500 miles I seem to recall was standard on new cars in the 50’s..

This is not a daily driver so 500 mi would likely be several months.?? Good bad dont really know.. Maybe just drive it to break in a quick 500 mi??
 
bubba22349":1spfz0lc said:
What is a good oil to use… on a regular basic for a new build.

Just about any oil would work you do need to have or add Zinc (ZDD) content to protect the cam and lifters. :nod: I would also stay from the Snytec type oils until you get some time on the engine so the rings are seated, about 20,000 miles or so.


Thanks bubba. Glad you took the time to help me here cuz one thing is for sure, I would have used syntec long before 20,000 mi.
I believe CI has the ZDD additives needed for the break-in...
I know you said just about any oil, but would you be willing to narrow that down to 2 or 3 brands… maybe.. :unsure:
Thanks.
 
On another issue:

I was checking the original Cam. Does this look like the setup is ok.
degreecam.jpg

I removed the cam to read the markings on the end but I could not make out what they were?

The intake lobe +.050 read 26. The max lift was 117. The - .050 was 161.
The exhaust +.050 was 162. The max lift was 255. The -.050 was 297.
Does this sound right.

Here I was looking at the endplay. I used the pry bar where you see it to move the crank. It did not take much force to move it. It was .005. Is this ok.
crankendplay005.jpg


If any procedure I used here is incorrect let me know. I need to get this part right..
 
Just to be on the safe side...when I just rebuilt my motor I changed the oil and filter right after the 20 minute breakin period. Then again after the first 500 miles. I used Brad Penn break in oil that I got from Mike at ClassicInlines...and now use Valvoline Racing Oil. ;)
 
bubba22349":2izidjl1 said:
Looks ok (y) Did you find true TDC?

Yes I did. I made a stop from a 2"x4" flat stock. Drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 bolt in the center for the stop.
That's the first time I ever did it that way. Worked great.
 
Gene Fiore":3uk6b5pj said:
Just to be on the safe side...when I just rebuilt my motor I changed the oil and filter right after the 20 minute breakin period. Then again after the first 500 miles. I used Brad Penn break in oil that I got from Mike at ClassicInlines...and now use Valvoline Racing Oil. ;)

Thank you Gene.. I prefer to be on the safe side... (y)
Couple dollars for oil is a lot cheaper than redoing the engine from oil issues.. :banghead:
 
:) Hi echo1955.Last time that I rebuilt a motor was in 1988.A 302 .Used the 500 mile interval then.Used Castrol 20W50 and an Fl 1A Motorcraft filter.
Worked out ok.Put over 150K on the engine,and the tranny died(C6).Worked it hard though.
Hauled many tons of firewood and towed many a trailer full of wood to boot.
Leo
 
woodbutcher":1jpmjk8h said:
:) Hi echo1955.Last time that I rebuilt a motor was in 1988.A 302 .Used the 500 mile interval then.Used Castrol 20W50 and an Fl 1A Motorcraft filter.
Worked out ok.Put over 150K on the engine,and the tranny died(C6).Worked it hard though.
Hauled many tons of firewood and towed many a trailer full of wood to boot.
Leo

Hey woodbutcher, Took my block to the machine shop today..
Let the spending games began: :eek:

In 96 I bought a 96 Toyota Tacoma 4x4. On my first oil change I used 10w30 Castrol synthetic.
When I reached 200K I changed to 5w50 Castrol synthetic.

It has 280k on it now. I change filter and oil every 10k. It has been in the shop twice.
First for a recall on head gasket. Second cuz the ac pressure line sprung a leak.
Now for the third time it has to see the shop again. My dang radiator sprung a leak at the top.

It has never used one drop of oil between changes….

I’m fixing to spend 6 grand on this build. I wanted to know what other 200 ci owners used.

As it stands now there is Valvoline Racing Oil, Castrol Synthetic and Royal Purple… .
 
Freddy":2g3hev69 said:
I am currently building a '65 200 block (with '72 200 crank and rods). Have already ordered a CI head, here is what I am doing to the rest of the engine:

Bored .030 Honed with 280 grit for moly rings
Flat top pistons (From Tempo HSC engine) calculated static CR to be 9.3:1
Balanced rot/recip assembly
ARP rod bolts - resized rods (necessary when replacing bolts)
Isky #321256 cam (degreed in straight up)
Yella Terra 1.65:1 Roller Rockers
CI Stainless Header
Holley 390cfm 4bbl carb
Still debating about ignition...

Hope this gives you some ideas... It is my intent that this combination will provide substantial power gains while remaining driveability and great gas mileage.

Freddy how ya coming on this?

What does this mean?
Balanced rot/recip assembly
Isky #321256 cam (degreed in straight up)
The rest I understand..

After reading all I could I have decided on the DUI ignition. Everything sounds good except the price.. :unsure:
 
Another project I finished about 5 years ago. It took me 5 years to complete but I wasn’t in any hurry… I gave this car to my youngest daughter.
She lives outside of the country in Cal-e-forn-ya..
47fordstart.jpg
47fordfinished.jpg

When I finished the 47 flat head 6, I used 50w Royal Purple.
In Texas Royal Purple rules the roost..

When I finish my Mustang my granddaughter has a 64 Falcon w/170ci in it.
She hasn’t said anything yet but…. proly be me next adventure.. :mrgreen:

I included Royal Purple because of this article I found yesterday comparing RP to Mobil 1:
Check it out.
http://www.royalpurple.com/corvette-enthusiast.html
 
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