200ci Echo -1955 Rebuild's His 1965 Mustang 200 I6 Block.

This applies only to 200ci
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Looks like it will be Monday 6 Dec before I get my block back.

I made an extender to use when I degree the cam in. I dissembled a lifter then using a push rod and some JB weld I glued it in the center of the lifter.

It looks good and should work better than using one loose… :unsure:

This Is It
 
:( OK On to PLAN B :(
I just learned from Mike his tri carb manifold is far from what is considered by me a reasonable build to pass along to my daughter and son-in-law. I see nothing but headaches down the road for them should the car develop carb issues..

I seriously considered the Offenhauser Triple Intake Manifolds, but I just cant bring myself to cut the hood. I do not want to drop the engine and trans ether.

It’s not what I wanted but I believe it will be a good show and good eye appeal as well. I believe there are enough of these builds around but I haven’t seen any in the car shows I’ve been to in Cal-e-forn-ya….

SO: Plan B..
Use CI Aluminum 2V-4V Intake Manifold.
Every thing else stays the same.. :|

I picked up my cam today from Mike and I should get my block back this coming Monday…
 
I seem to recall reading some where if you use AL heads with Yella Terra Full Roller Rocker Set it has the same effect as advancing the cam 2º..

I also read if you mill the deck 0.012 it has the effect of retarding the cam 1º..

Q: If this is correct and you wanted to advance the cam 4º , would you only advance the cam now at 2º ?? Giving you a total advance of 3º..
 
Thank you CobraSix. It never occurred to me to change my master cylinder to a dual. The machine shop has had my block for over 2 months now. The up side.. it gave me plenty of time to browse through some of the many post here and it just so happen I saw one of your post.

One had a link to your My How to's

You did a great job there and it helped me a Lot.. If all goes as plan I should pick my block up tomorrow. Before I drop it in I will be replacing my master cylinder with a dual cylinder…

BEFORE:
MasterCylendar03.jpg


I will post the AFTER after I install it… :mrgreen:
Thanks again CobraSix.. (y)
 
I brought my baby home today. She seemed to look as though she had lost everything…
1homecomming.jpg

She had a large frown that I could see clearly.. I comforted her by telling her I would give her a complete new set of gear..and she would look better than ever..
2frown.jpg

I began to cheered her up a with a hot bath.
3hotbath.jpg

Then I gave her a lavish and soothing splash of WD40 lotion… This brought some life back to her..
4blowdry02.jpg

I realized I had to quickly do more. So I brought out her new brass gear with a dab of JB Weld perfume..
5frezeplugs.jpg

That’s when I noticed a huge smile..
6smile.jpg

Then I gave her a lavish new black coat… and her smile seem to take on a brighter show of approval…
7newblackcoat01.jpg

She was very pleased with her back side as well.. with a cool Motorcraft tattoo..
8newblackcoat02.jpg

After all that she wanted to get her beauty rest,
SO
I turned out the lights……………….the party’s ………………over
for tonight anyway…... :mrgreen:
9bedtime.jpg
 
hahahaha no need… :mrgreen:
I wont be using CI’s aluminum heads.
He doesn’t know when he will be coming out with his Tri Carb manifold.

My whole reasoning for this build was to add Tri Carbs. So for now I will be using my log head…..
everything else stays the same except maybe a drop in SCR…
 
Old Rope Type Rear Main Seal:
oldropeseal02.jpg

I have ordered FelPro Rear seal # BS30135. I hope it is an PTFE type.. :unsure:

Stay tuned…… more T/K
 
Looking good (y) Though I don't care for the old rope seals if you can get a lip seal :unsure: Give you back a bit more power too! :nod:
 
I would be scared to death using that rope seal and not having a leak...
I may be old but I love new technology .... :mrgreen:

I have ordered a new (Modern) seal... :mrgreen:
I'll show it when I get it..
 
I would be scared to death using that rope seal and not having a leak...

A rope seal will work without leaking and last a long time. Still the later style seal's are just that much better! :nod:
 
You are indeed correct as this seal has never leaked and it looked good when I took it our.
BUT
It was installed by a professional and I is certainly ant one O dem… :unsure:

This will be my 4 rear main seal install and I don’t count the first 3 as that was 50 years ago and I had my twin brother helping…

So just call me chicken little cuz i dont mind.
I is going for what I consider the easiest… :mrgreen:
 
I installed the oil rings for piston # 1-2-3 and 4 over the boss facing the thrust bearing pointing at rear of engine.
The # 5 and 6 over the boss facing thrust bearing pointing at front of engine.
MolyRingPositionFF02.jpg

The scrapers and compression rings at 45º relative to oil rings.

I use Quickseat on the cylinders. I believe you can see the cylinder walls are a greenish color.
quickseatcylinderwalls.jpg


wish me luck... ;)
 
Good luck keep up the excellent work. (y) Years ago seen pictures of the special tool they made to install rope seals round stock with shaft to pound it in. I have always installed the rope seal's just using a big socket side ways to push it in and than tap it a gently with a hammer to seat it. After that trim ends with single edge razor blade or other sharp knife. Never had a new install leak. :nod:
 
I'm gonna think about that. It's the cutting the ends that causes me concern..
If I'm to short or to long, slight angle ?????

Remember bubba, my craft was Publishing not motor building.. :mrgreen:
 
It's real easy with a razor blade start at inside edge with blade about 30 degrees and resting on block’s parting line slice it back and forth as like a saw. It may take second cut to get it trimmed flat even with block. I know you can do it. :nod:
 
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