New guy with turbo 200 question

I am pretty much going ot be running the same turbo on my Aussie 250.

TO4E .50 trim compressor with a .63 stage II exhaust side. Shoudl flow aorund the 350hp mark which will be a good start I think for getting the car going....left room to step up in size (hopefully)
 
I think this one is actually a t3/4 hybrid after getting the pics from the guy. I still think it should be fine.
 
That'd be a good thing in my mind. Not that a 3.3l would have problems spooling up a T04, but a T3 will probably get you on boost a little sooner and make power delivery a little more progressive. You will sacrifice ultimate hp, but probably improve driveability. Most modern cars slightly undersize their turbos so they're running closer to the edge at peak power but deliver full boost at very low RPM, giving a much more linear experience.

I have a big hybrid on my 2.3l XR4Ti, and it's just a little too much turbo for good street performance on that car. An extra liter of displacement would be just about perfect for a great street experience and a fine track experience. Worst thing about too big of a turbo - IMHO - is managing one in corners. You're always fighting between bogging down or breaking loose. I'd rather have more flexibility at the expense of ultimate power... maybe less fast, but certainly more fun. ;)
 
So I have a quick question as I am starting a turbo 200 build as well. I am very impressed with Does10's 63 and a lot of the fellow inliners rides here on the forums but I can't find any information on what aftermarket parts that you guys have used for the bottom ends of your sixes. I know that I need to beef up the stock rotating assembly before I throw some decent boost at it but off the shelf aftermarket parts just aren't readily available for items such as forged or billet rods, etc. Any recommendations on where I could find those type of parts? I'm going to get the full rebuild kit from Classic Inlines w/ forged pistons but it sure would be nice to amp up the rods to hold them. ;)
 
The stock seven bearing engine has enough strength for three times the stock power, even with cast rods. Cast rods will break after some cycles, but that's about the only major risk.

Unlike Detroit V8's and V6's, there is no need for forged pistons because the balance and compression and rev range isn't in the same leage as a Z28 302 or Boss 302, so good cast pistons will do everything you need in a 250 to 300 hp engine.

Con rods should be replaced with forged items if you can get them. They are common and easy to change. They suffer fatigue resistence problems if reused and repeatedly leaned on, while the stock forged rods were fine to use

Asside from that, the only problems are rod bolts, which tend to be plastercine under loads, and the stock oil pump should be replace with a good replacement of stock or better than stock flow, with a new oil pickup and new anodised screen. And timing chains. Stock early 250 is fine, twin row aftermarket 200 timming chain is hard to beat.

Stock pistons are geared around compression and what works for a 255 V8 or HSC 2.3 or 2.5 will be strong enough for three times the stock rating in an I6. The 125 gross 200 is about an 85 hp engine (85 to 93 hp factory net). The 155 hp gross 250 was a 98 hp engine (or thereabouts). So that's 255 hp will have no main bearing issues on a formerly 85hp. And 300 hp likewise no issues on a formerly 100 hp engine.
 
Thanks for the tips xctasy. I'll roll with your suggestions then because that would save me a bundle of cash in the build process as well.
 
Back
Top