Turbo 200 Build - Bottom End

one70six

Active member
I am starting a turbo 200 build in the near future (actually it's already on the engine stand) and I am very impressed with Does10's 63 and a lot of the fellow inliners rides here on the forums but I can't find any information on what aftermarket parts that you guys have used for the bottom ends of your sixes. I know that I need to beef up the stock rotating assembly before I throw some decent boost at it but off the shelf aftermarket parts just aren't readily available for items such as forged or billet rods, etc. Any recommendations on where I could find those type of parts? I'm going to get the full rebuild kit from Classic Inlines w/ forged pistons but it sure would be nice to amp up the rods to hold them. I've seen some of Does10's pics and throwing a rod would just make me sick after spending the time and money to build the engine right. Any other tips for strengthening the short block would be helpful as well. I'm looking to get at least 300hp out of her. Thanks!
 
Stock rods can handle a bunch of abuse. We've never broken a rod....yet! We've cracked cyl. walls that led to broken rods, but it wasn't the rods fault.
But we now run 4.6L rods from Manley. But mainly just becuase they're a little longer than a stock 250 rod.

Forged pistons are not required either, but they are nice to have, when it goes a bit lean.
We use "Hardbloc" in our waterjackets to help hold the cyl. walls in place. We don't fill it totally up with the stuff, just about half way so there still enough room for water to cool the thing.

We used to blow head gaskets all the time! So we got tired of that and went with O-rings and a copper gasket. Problem solved!

Later,
Will
 
Thanks for the tips Will! I guess that I will just shot peen the stock rods, put in some ARP bolts, run cast dished pistons, and O-ring the block. I plan on using a wideband to help me keep the thing from going too lean. I've heard of a few guys sleaving the cylinders to increase the strength but I've never heard of Hardbloc before. Is that something that the machine shop installed for you or did you do it yourself?

Thanks!
 
You can do it yourself. Summit and Jegs sell it. But in our case I've had our machine shop put it in. Mainly because they already have the block for baking and machining.

Hardbloc is basically....concrete! It even looks about the same.
It gets poured into the water jackets, usually thru the coolant holes in the deck. Just make sure the block is level before you start!!

The problem with the Inline 6's is that the normal water pump is mounted in the block. So we don't run a normal water pump. We use an electric one that sits down by the radiator outlet.
Here's a pic of the front of Kelly's engine.
6868150029_medium.jpg

You can see that a normal water pump won't work.
It's also not really recommended for street use. We do use our's on the street from time to time, but it's NOT a daily driver!

Sleeving will only increase the cyl wall thickness/strength if you reduce the bore size. Otherwise you're removing material and replacing it with the same thickness of different material. Might be a little gained, but probably not worth the cost.
Kelly's current block has 2 sleeves in it. Just because we tore up a few pistons and they ate up the cyl. walls.

Later,
Will
 
Well I guess I won't go that far then since it will be a daily driver. Thanks for the pic and the info. I just dropped the block, rods, and crank off at the machine shop to have them checked before I place my first order to Classic Inlines so the process has begun!
 
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