New project Eaton M90 and EFI on my early Bronco 200

i think we should just see if we can get, the aus ones they are know to fit without messing around with anything else. i would imagine if the nose was not machines right it would start tearing up seals like no tomorrow.

also i went and checked my car just fount out that i cant fit my finger between the crank and the water pump pulley so might not be able to use the aus one anyway
 
Xargon321":31mwsudh said:
i think we should just see if we can get, the aus ones they are know to fit without messing around with anything else. i would imagine if the nose was not machines right it would start tearing up seals like no tomorrow.

also i went and checked my car just fount out that i cant fit my finger between the crank and the water pump pulley so might not be able to use the aus one anyway
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The Falcon balancer will almost certainly require using an electric water pump. The water pump pulley and the crank pulley are so close together the larger crank pulley will not leave any room for the water pump pulley. If you used a smaller pulley on the water pump to make clearance, I think it could cause cooling issues.
 
well i called Azcoupe and he said he is working it again. so maybe here soon we will see the balancer for sale!
 
Xargon321":1fg56ovv said:
well i called Azcoupe and he said he is working it again. so maybe here soon we will see the balancer for sale!
Click to expand...

I ordered one of the AUSSIE versions off of ebay the other day. I'm not waiting on Mike.
 
Econoline64":2pkqvep9 said:
Xargon321":2pkqvep9 said:
well i called Azcoupe and he said he is working it again. so maybe here soon we will see the balancer for sale!
Click to expand...

I ordered one of the AUSSIE versions off of ebay the other day. I'm not waiting on Mike.
Click to expand...

Are you planning to run an electric water pump or are you going to try to run a smaller pulley on the current water pump? I was thinking of trying it with a smaller water pump pulley. It will significantly increase the speed at which the water pump turns and I'm not sure if that would cause any issues with keeping things cool. I'm very interested in what you do. How long is it going to take to get the balancer?
 
"...66 Bronco with a 170 ( soon to have a 200)..."
Still a 'Flying Brick' - what they named my '86 Wolwo 240.

When you succeed it will fly for real. No more dawg, Johnson!

Anybody know at what point his water pump would begin cavitation?
What's stock? 4 inches? If he reduced to 3.75 inches?
 
chad":38x3hjpp said:
"...66 Bronco with a 170 ( soon to have a 200)..."
Still a 'Flying Brick' - what they named my '86 Wolwo 240.

When you succeed it will fly for real. No more dawg, Johnson!

Anybody know at what point his water pump would begin cavitation?
What's stock? 4 inches? If he reduced to 3.75 inches?
Click to expand...

Stock is about 5.5", I was figuring that I would need to step down to 4" or so. I found a mazda truck in the junkyard today that has a serpentine layout that would work for what I'm doing. The brackets will not bolt up but I can copy the belt configuration. I have actually been running the 200 for a while, I just need to give it a little kick in the butt with the M90.
 
i think moving down to a 5" would be plenty. it can be close its just cant touch. i know my damper that i have now is 6.25" so the falcon damper would only be .60 inches bigger and it you laid it on top of mine it would only stick out over it by .30 around the edge so a 1/2 inch down size would be plenty.
 
one of the most difficult jobs, I think, is laying out the front of an engine when making changes. I'm not a engineer, never mind a mechanic (read: need all the help possible), but have heard there is a (several?) computer programs that help. With it you can lay out variations so all the accessories and drives fit and have the right tension. I have "2 plains of depth" (only 6 'shivs") to figure out as well, complicating matters further...

Any 1 know where to find such apps?
sure B nice, eh?
 
:unsure: Chad.Check out Cnet.com.They are a"clearing house" so to speak for just about any type of software you can imagine.Free and pay for.Have used them for years.Very happy with the results.Time for you to haul out the electric heated long johns. :rolflmao:
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
it aint happenin there (cnet) Leo, 'sfar as I can tell anyway.
 
:D Hi Chet.Keep digging.They have thousands of software programs.Type in what you are looking for in the search box at the top right side of the page.Start with"graphic design free".
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Keep an eye on the key facts...the serpentine system is able to work with any remote water pump...the water pump can be an idler gear, and the balancer as big as you please, and the f150 or Taurus 3G alternator held by any kind of bracket, the A/C PUMP ANY KIND, THE ALTERNATOR OR POWER STEERING PULLEYS CAN BE INTERCHANGED AND DOWN SIZED...




install2a.jpg


install2b.jpg
 
I know Mike likes to profile this build and he should, but this guy totally screwed mike and myself, I sent him a cam I had profiled by bullet cams and helped him with the professional products fuel injection and Mike supplied the head and intake and he put the screws to both of us, very sad, he was suppose to help Mike with the restrictor plate for the top of the efi which we helped him develop for Mikes products and guess what, I spent hours with this guy for a good screwing.
 
that turquoise bronk dont need no hood scoop w/a 3 inch BL?
 
Thanks Johnsondawg for showin where yer goin, relating the bumpy points. It's come around to issues I face on totally different project. Allowed others to share about work-a-rounds.
One of the great things about the site!
X : I won't go w/a 3 inch BL (got an off rd vehicle) but do have a "low hood". Don't have the 200 but a 250. Won't have ac but do want to put a York compressor on for "on board air" to run pnuematic tool and a big alternator for a lill mig gun to weld with. May be I should look at the remote H2O pump & serpintine. I work at AutoZtoned - what idler pulley & tensioner are you suggesting and where is it mounted? Followed somea yer links. Thanx for the pic but it's so small I can't see that in the diagram...
 
First, the "Serpentine Belt Tensioner"
Ford PN's are E7TZ 6B209 H and F4TZ 6B209 AA

Aftermarket Replacement make one under AM-33074171 "Serpentine Belt Tensioner" for Ford E150 E250 E350 F150 F250 Bronco L6 4.9L (Y or Z code, 1987-1996, and 1997 for some F250's)


Second, the 4.9 EFI and serpentine parts dovetail with the 200 and 250 six. For instance, the 3.3/200 is has a crank to head surface depth of approx 7.803 verses 9.80, about 2 inches lower than the 240/300, and the small six oil pump and sump isn't a pinch point like the 240/300 is. There is the lack of girth with a 3.3/200, is only a little over 9" wide, not almost 12" like the US small six 250 and 240/300 Big Six are.

The parts allow you to customise the whole set up back to the factory Y and Z code 170 hp net set up. One you have fuel and space, you then can boost the set up using FoMoCo's best engineered engine ever, the 87 to 97 Fuelie Big Six.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67303

xctasy":todzxwk5 said:
One set up that trumps all others for the 250 is the adaption of the EFI 4.9 serpentine drive.All power options with room for headers,air pump, a/c, p/s, tensioner and no water pump, just and idler where a reverse water pump might have been.

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs ... 0723c9.gif

On f150forum.com, the EFI set up comprises just a passenger side low mount air pump, then 3G alternator, tensioner, drivers side Ps and an A/C unit which was optional. There is a common EF and EL Falcon balancer which allows the whole set up to blend into a US 200, or the stock 4.9 balancer for the 250.

The pictures are from page 3 and 4 of the above forum

http://www.f150forum.com/f13/fuel-injec ... 11/index3/

http://www.f150forum.com/f13/fuel-injec ... 11/index4/


The water pump can be eliminated, and replaced with an EWP Davis Craig set up, and an idler gear added where the water pump was. Balldrick, CYCO250 from Xford forums, and our and73greenmachine have done it.



Takes a bit of nutting out, but the parts are perfect for our small sixes as well as the 240/300

The other thing is that the 250 Classic Inlines engine and head combination 73GreenMachine has made is perfect for an F150 4.9 EFI throttle body, eliminating the hood clearance issues all the 250 engines have in cars with shallows hoods (especially the Mustang 68-73 X-shells and Fox body Fords).





The serpentine drive would be the icing on the cake. :nod: :nod: :nod:
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interesting... 2 much modification (cost, time) for me right now, but THAT would B 1 way to get an ele fan in 8^0...
(supposed to B a joke, sorry).
ele WP, ele fan, all the monitors/controllers/wires/etc, idler & tensioner, serpentine belt
I think I could bring in my "on board air" & 200 amp alternator at that point. They recommend NOT hard mounting the pump. Hope it (& the rest) would survive the 'bump'n grind' of log skiddin I do round here! Hate to hafta walk out/back in w/tools due to a break down...

Thanks for lettin me jack ur thread, Johnson.... I think I remember when U found that rig in some sorta mill in the desert?

Where are U with the build NOW?
Doesn't seem like it will B an off roader, eh?
 
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