Ranger_gone_straight":31xzeku7 said:
Canfield 185 dollars.
http://www.cididit.com/adaptor_plate.htm
http://www.mypowerblock.com/group/ford- ... e=activity
Natch!
1984 Ford 2.3L powered Bronco II
- Thread starter MechRick
- Start date
Canfield 185 dollars.
http://www.cididit.com/adaptor_plate.htm
http://www.mypowerblock.com/group/ford- ... e=activity
Natch!
The impetus for these are the 900+ HP Lima turbos seeing dragstrip duty. It allows autos with the small block bellhousing. C4 Lima bells are getting rare.
There is a company making manual flywheels for them, but it's not plug and play, and gets costly.
http://stinger-performance.com/
There is a company making manual flywheels for them, but it's not plug and play, and gets costly.
http://stinger-performance.com/
Details...
The PCV vacuum port was in the now defunct Holley, so I had to add one...
I drilled a hole freehand through the adapter, because PCV must be shared on all cylinders (it's a metered vacuum leak).
Oversized with a bigger bit.
Tapped for 1/8" NPT.
Mounted.
PCV installed and working. This is a must before carb jetting.
Tires are 235/75-15 Wranglers on steelies painted Dark Machinery Gray. It's interesting that Wranglers were the tire/tread design used from the factory. I'm just using one 3 sizes bigger.
The PCV vacuum port was in the now defunct Holley, so I had to add one...
I drilled a hole freehand through the adapter, because PCV must be shared on all cylinders (it's a metered vacuum leak).
Oversized with a bigger bit.
Tapped for 1/8" NPT.
Mounted.
PCV installed and working. This is a must before carb jetting.
Tires are 235/75-15 Wranglers on steelies painted Dark Machinery Gray. It's interesting that Wranglers were the tire/tread design used from the factory. I'm just using one 3 sizes bigger.
Well, I have a significant problem. I ended up ditching the engine-driven fuel pump because the Ranger P/S pump bracket interfered.
I was worried that an electric fuel pump would cause issues. I have had two of them fail in the last month, and the thing isn't even registered yet.
The fuel supply is filtered, the inlet hose has a gravity fed supply of fuel.
Does anyone make a reliable electric pump for carb use?
I may resort to an EFI pump/sender from an '86 BII and run a carb regulator and a return line.
I was worried that an electric fuel pump would cause issues. I have had two of them fail in the last month, and the thing isn't even registered yet.
The fuel supply is filtered, the inlet hose has a gravity fed supply of fuel.
Does anyone make a reliable electric pump for carb use?
I may resort to an EFI pump/sender from an '86 BII and run a carb regulator and a return line.
Ranger_gone_straight
Well-known member
Yea seems like everybody wants to sell a $10 Chinese electric fuel pump for carbs. NOw some maybe in fancy box with a brand name and a brand name price, but its still the same el crappo generic $10 pump. Yes unfortunately seems if you want reliable electric pump, you use an OEM style intank pump for fuelie system and then have a pressure regulator with return line to get pressure down to something carb can use. They will last long time.
That's the way I'm leaning. A good Walboro pump would give me peace of mind.
I think the stock setup used a lift pump in the tank and a high pressure pump on the frame rail. I won't be doing that.
Mustangs used an in tank pump that supplied 40 psi to the injectors. I'll see if I can retrofit that one, just in case I decide to go EFI (a distinct possibility if I'm disappointed with the fuel economy).
I think the stock setup used a lift pump in the tank and a high pressure pump on the frame rail. I won't be doing that.
Mustangs used an in tank pump that supplied 40 psi to the injectors. I'll see if I can retrofit that one, just in case I decide to go EFI (a distinct possibility if I'm disappointed with the fuel economy).
Ranger_gone_straight
Well-known member
I suspect if carb and distributor advance are tuned, you can get close to fuel injection mileage. What carb systems cant do is both get good mileage and meet super low emissions. Sort of one or the other.
The parts store was nice enough to warranty the pump substituting a different brand. I've also got another on order. I'm determined to find one that's reliable.
Got the front shaft installed and the 4x4 working this weekend. Grabbed a Jeep Cherokee shaft that was a bit long, and had a slip yoke on one end (BII has the slip yoke in the transfer case).
The jeep shaft had a double cardan joint on one end. Had to whack that off...
Scored with an exhaust cut off tool...
Knocked the yoke off...
Shortened to 22" center to center (collapsed), deburred...
Carefully realigned...
Welded back on...
...and new 1330 joints installed.
This gives me two slip yokes, one on each end of the shaft. Hopefully this will allow enough length change in the event I swap transmissions. Drove it around a bit and parked it in the drive for a snapshot.
Ill get it registered and insured by the weekend. Then it's clean, clean, clean....
Got the front shaft installed and the 4x4 working this weekend. Grabbed a Jeep Cherokee shaft that was a bit long, and had a slip yoke on one end (BII has the slip yoke in the transfer case).
The jeep shaft had a double cardan joint on one end. Had to whack that off...
Scored with an exhaust cut off tool...
Knocked the yoke off...
Shortened to 22" center to center (collapsed), deburred...
Carefully realigned...
Welded back on...
...and new 1330 joints installed.
This gives me two slip yokes, one on each end of the shaft. Hopefully this will allow enough length change in the event I swap transmissions. Drove it around a bit and parked it in the drive for a snapshot.
Ill get it registered and insured by the weekend. Then it's clean, clean, clean....
I've got about 100 miles on the Bronco so far. Fuel pump seems to be hanging in there. It's a Mr Gasket low pressure pump. I've also got a Performance Products low pressure pump in the glovebox just in case.
The first 3 gallons of gas went 60 miles, with a carb running 12:1. I think I'll hit my fuel economy goal easily after jetting.
Speaking of jetting, the secondaries are a bit lean, which causes some ping at WOT. My 5000' obstacle between Vegas and my house slowed the Bronco down to 55 mph running on the primary bore of the Weber (6% grade). I think it will have no trouble pulling hills once the carb is dialed.
Lack of overdrive is not an issue. Runs along 70 mph perfectly happy and smooth, and even runs third at freeway speeds like it could do it all day.
Like any old Ford, there are a few electrical gremlins to chase down. I find most of them can be fixed by cleaning switches and connections.
I'll start replacing all the rubber (window run channels, door seals, sunroof seal) and work on the body/paint this winter. I'm thinking of spraying Rustoleum using a thinner that flashes a bit slower than acetone. I don't want to waste expensive paint on something that might get run through brush and scratched.
The first 3 gallons of gas went 60 miles, with a carb running 12:1. I think I'll hit my fuel economy goal easily after jetting.
Speaking of jetting, the secondaries are a bit lean, which causes some ping at WOT. My 5000' obstacle between Vegas and my house slowed the Bronco down to 55 mph running on the primary bore of the Weber (6% grade). I think it will have no trouble pulling hills once the carb is dialed.
Lack of overdrive is not an issue. Runs along 70 mph perfectly happy and smooth, and even runs third at freeway speeds like it could do it all day.
Like any old Ford, there are a few electrical gremlins to chase down. I find most of them can be fixed by cleaning switches and connections.
I'll start replacing all the rubber (window run channels, door seals, sunroof seal) and work on the body/paint this winter. I'm thinking of spraying Rustoleum using a thinner that flashes a bit slower than acetone. I don't want to waste expensive paint on something that might get run through brush and scratched.
chessterd5
Famous Member
Looks good MechRick!
I have a question if you don't mind? How much does a stock 2.3 engine weigh? If you know I'd appreciate it, thanks!
I have a question if you don't mind? How much does a stock 2.3 engine weigh? If you know I'd appreciate it, thanks!
More details...
Bought a nifty Redline adapter that allows a typical 5 1/8" round air cleaner.
Also found the correct D port carb intake in the wrecking yard. Swapped it in. The two intakes are identical except for the shape of the ports.
There seems to be a torque boost running the D port. Or maybe it was just the port mismatch.
Bought a nifty Redline adapter that allows a typical 5 1/8" round air cleaner.
Also found the correct D port carb intake in the wrecking yard. Swapped it in. The two intakes are identical except for the shape of the ports.
There seems to be a torque boost running the D port. Or maybe it was just the port mismatch.
I needed to get the spare out of the back. Decided to weld up a combination spare tire carrier/jerry can holder/hitch. Got some 2"x2" 1/8" square tubing and went to work.
The base bumper is mounted to the Bronco with 1/4" plate.
The hinge is a simple gate barrel hinge.
Gate is a simple rectangle, swings to the right.
I'll weld a hitch receiver between the bottom of the mounting plates and put the license plate lamps in next weekend.
The base bumper is mounted to the Bronco with 1/4" plate.
The hinge is a simple gate barrel hinge.
Gate is a simple rectangle, swings to the right.
I'll weld a hitch receiver between the bottom of the mounting plates and put the license plate lamps in next weekend.
Looks like its about ready to hit the outback! 
A little Rustoleum primer and paint...
The smoke gray bears a remarkable resemblance to the dark machinery gray I painted the wheels.
The hitch is a class 3 receiver I had laying around. It's welded/bolted to 2" tube that's welded to the mounting plates. It will be mainly used for a receiver-mounted bike rack.
I moved the plate because it interfered with the hitch.
I trimmed the power valve a bit more, now WOT comes in about 11-12:1. Power is up a bit too.
The smoke gray bears a remarkable resemblance to the dark machinery gray I painted the wheels.
The hitch is a class 3 receiver I had laying around. It's welded/bolted to 2" tube that's welded to the mounting plates. It will be mainly used for a receiver-mounted bike rack.
I moved the plate because it interfered with the hitch.
I trimmed the power valve a bit more, now WOT comes in about 11-12:1. Power is up a bit too.
Cool23":1ls2hm22 said:
Look @ his pic (several frames higher) - he's talkin BII (Bronco Two, has a back or side window that goes way up into the roof). I think you might be talkin EB, early bronk or '66 - '77 (see my avitar). This was a much later vehicle, not chassy-on-frame but a unibody. There's been 6 or 8 generations of brocos ('66 - 96) two of em small w/a many yr break between them.
Hope the amer. english translates to Oz English in understandable fashion. Ask if needing more, glad to help - even bein an old thread!
chad":2n0rt8tx said:
I wish I had a unibody. It would lighten the vehicle similar to the weight of a Cherokee, which *is* a unibody.
Working on lighting at the moment. Added some halogen fog lamps and I'm working on a small light bar to mount some halogen spots. Found a nifty lighted rocker with a center off position. Down is fogs, up will be spots. Saves space on the dash and I see no reason to run fogs and spots at the same time.
I wanted to advance the cam a bit. In the past, the vehicles I've built with fours were all much lighter and more aerodynamic than the BII. I left the cams retarded since they simply didn't need low end torque. Turbos like a bit of retard too. This one needs all the help it can get out of the hole.
There are multi index cam gears available for the 2.3, but I have spare cam gears so I decided to cut a new (advanced) keyway in one.
The 2.3 cam gear has 38 teeth. If one were to advance the gear one tooth on the belt, the advance would be 9.4 degrees (simple math, 360/38). This is too much. I wanted about half that (4-5 degrees). Halfway would put the index point in the valley of the cam gear tooth, so that's where I cut a new .250" keyway slot.
The correct tool for this is a broach and an arbor press. I used a hacksaw and file.
This made a surprising seat of the pants improvement down low.
There are multi index cam gears available for the 2.3, but I have spare cam gears so I decided to cut a new (advanced) keyway in one.
The 2.3 cam gear has 38 teeth. If one were to advance the gear one tooth on the belt, the advance would be 9.4 degrees (simple math, 360/38). This is too much. I wanted about half that (4-5 degrees). Halfway would put the index point in the valley of the cam gear tooth, so that's where I cut a new .250" keyway slot.
The correct tool for this is a broach and an arbor press. I used a hacksaw and file.
This made a surprising seat of the pants improvement down low.