Any proven turbo combinations out their for the 300?

FuzzySix":1p6142yf said:
Sick6Turbo":1p6142yf said:
:nod: Stock 300+hx35= 2500 rpm spool, 3000 rpm grinometer pegged.

I'm interested in a stock 300-turbo build. Any more info on your setup? How much boost do you get? How does it perform at interstate speeds (60-70mph)? And what else did you put in with it (injectors, blow off, intercooler, etc.)

think Sick6Turbo took a break from the forums,
 
pmuller9: I agree, the log is doing zip for scavenging. The long 2.5" pipe downstream is the real aid, not sure if a 2.5" pipe that is shorter (ie front mount) would have as good of velocity, may have to be tapered down to a smaller pipe. I would like your thoughts on header size and length, and feed tube size for a front mount deal with 100% isolation. Front 3 cylinders and back 3 cylinders with individual pipes feeding into a twin scroll turbine with single isolated wastegate. (divider up against the wastegate valve head)

The previous examples of the 363 sbf etc. were just to show that things that people say will not work, can and do work. Optimum? No way. I am content doing this "junkyard" style to see what works, and how things respond. I'm leaving at least 10hp on the table in trade for great spool right now and some hp in other areas. I'm hoping to take my junkyard dog to the track this spring and run 11's at 475+hp. Then get a little fancy after that.

deere114: I have wondered the same thing as dual 2" would be the next step up vs single 2.5". A single (probably shorter) 2.5" pipe is said to support 900-1000hp with a big turbo tho. I know of a 6.0 ls with a 2" crossover well north of 700hp. Small pipes big turbo.

With the 2100 stall Edge converter, 268 comp cam, half of the t72 exhaust scroll blocked with a plate,(3/4" hole drilled in the blocked side) I was able to get 10 psi of boost at 2100 rpm. Let off the transbrake and boy what a dog. Had to lay into it very slow to avoid backfires through the carb. As soon as the tach hit 2400, SEE YA! That's the rpm the H.D. log and a 2.5" x 13'+ pipe works on a 300. Any of the 3 cams I tried made no difference. Even tho I switched to the 3100 stall converter after the Crower, there is a rpm hesitation at 2400 rpm always. Perhaps the efi mani's or headers would provide the lower rpm scavenging to get over the hump...when exhaust pressure is much higher than the boost. The reason my system doesn't work below 2400 is because at the 10psi@2100 senario, the exhaust pressure was 24psi, and the boost 10 psi and no scavenging is happening...reversion. Above 2400, good to go. Maybe a single 2" or 2.25" feed pipe would work with the log and rear mount at a lower rpm.

FuzzySix: Ran 13psi non intercooled 14* total timing 87 octane dual port intake open spacer Holley 350 2 barrel ebay wastegate. Only abused, never cruised. He pinged it plenty shifting into 4th and boosting with big tires on it, that's why I developed the Cure to hold the power valve open during low cfm/rpm, high boost senarios. Beat the hell out of it tuning on my back road, then he beat up stock mustangs and camaros in town stop light to stop light (4wd). From there he tried to kill it just doing mud bogs (floating the valves for a rev limiter), and blew up a clutch and snapped axle shafts/joints. No injectors or anything fancy, stock mechanical fuel pump boost referenced. Had a broken piston skirt when I installed the turbo, and ran fine when he went 460.

sthorvictor: Glad to see your build coming along nicely. I have been laying low, just too much time on the puter being on 4 forums ect. I have being getting alot more things done vs talking about them lol. I will chime in from time to time, the next action will likely be on my youtube channel.
 
I just finished my megasquirt tonight and bought a 95 powerstroke f250 to drive daily. So I'll be starting a build thread very shortly. I think since downtime isn't an issue now I'm going to try to fabricate a tubular header out of stainless weld els going to the twin scroll turbine housing in using. Exactly as you posted single tial 38mm with its feed pipe divided up to it. I'm thinking 1 5/8 tubes. Mainly cause that what seems to work for an n/a header. Goal is to light that tp38 and quickly and efficiently as possible. Looking forward to a new video!
 
Sick6Turbo":3556ko6u said:
pmuller9: I agree, the log is doing zip for scavenging. The long 2.5" pipe downstream is the real aid, not sure if a 2.5" pipe that is shorter (ie front mount) would have as good of velocity, may have to be tapered down to a smaller pipe. I would like your thoughts on header size and length, and feed tube size for a front mount deal with 100% isolation. Front 3 cylinders and back 3 cylinders with individual pipes feeding into a twin scroll turbine with single isolated wastegate. (divider up against the wastegate valve head)

The previous examples of the 363 sbf etc. were just to show that things that people say will not work, can and do work. Optimum? No way. I am content doing this "junkyard" style to see what works, and how things respond. I'm leaving at least 10hp on the table in trade for great spool right now and some hp in other areas. I'm hoping to take my junkyard dog to the track this spring and run 11's at 475+hp. Then get a little fancy after that.
Glad to see you back!
I would use 1 5/8" primary tubes.
The exhaust ports on a CNC ported head I have here measure 1.70" by 1.25" with a rounded 1.82" diagonal.

Each port on a divided T4 flange is about 2" by 1.5". I'm thinking one end of a 2.5" round can be shaped into a rectangle to fit those dimensions.
Have each set of three primary tubes collected with a 2.5" round then reshaped for the divided T4 flange.

Primary tube length will probably be determined more by turbocharger location.
If the turbo is below the intake manifold then it would be a straight shot from the exhaust ports to the T4 flange.
 
FuzzySix: On the mud bogger 300 we ran 11.0-11.2 afr's. When he would shift into 4th it would lean to 12.0+ afr's and ping(no Cure). The extra fuel is how we got away with 87 octane and no inter cooler. The extra fuel does hurt power however, but more boost is the frosting on the cake.

I have pushed things a bit last fall after installing the Lunati 277. Been running 87 octane and 17psi, with 15gph 80meth/20water mix spraying pre turbo...no issues. From my experience, I should safely be able to run 24psi with 91 octane and Torco. The 277 makes more power per pound of boost than the other cams, so I start low and work back up with each change. "Hooks on the street leaving at 12 psi" is going to be a tall order now with the 277.

deere114: Awesome! Should work well! 8)

pmuller9: Good to converse again Paul. Thank you for the insight. (y)
 
Finally Blew mine up was pulling hard 20psi @4k no issues, 94 octane with 10% ethanol. Wastegate line blew off spiked 25lbs and detonated/kicked once think she leaned out soo fast and my timing wasn't forgiving enough for that, took the ring lands out on cyl 4 and 5 I'm thinking.
 
sick6turbo,

Those are some pretty sweet boost numbers I just killed my 300 yesterday I have a draw through turbo set up on mine. I popped a ring land in cylinder four. I was reading your post a little ways back you say your running Torco and 80/20 water meth. I was running 91 pump and 30/70 water meth and 15 psi when I killed mine. So what's the secret potion of Torco and pump gas your running? What are your AFR without the meth/ and water? I would love to get some more power out of mine if I could stop blowing it up :banghead:
 
When the turbo is cool, the boost only comes up to about 14psi with the current boost controller setting. It dawned on me about 2 months ago that the meth switch is set at 15psi, so I was actually running 87 octane and 14psi a few times last fall...no issues, I've pulled the 300 apart since then. When warm it boosts to 17psi with meth coming in at 15psi, which is ok since 10psi to 17psi is milliseconds.

Anyway...I use 3.2oz/gallon of gas. With 91 it's supposed to be 101 octane. I was able to gain 6psi on a 2.3 ford turbo 4 cylinder with no other changes with this mix. Here's a rundown of detail that will keep you safe...I hope!!!

Top ring gap= .028" minimum (my stock 300 had about .031" when I pulled it apart)
Second gap= jury still out on this some say .002 more than top to eliminate ring flutter, some say a few thousands less. I just pulled apart a stock supercoupe 3.8 v6 and the top rings were around .034" and the second rings were .021", 100,xxx miles. Smaller bore and 11psi for the factory. Those are hyper's and sometimes require more top ring gap as well. I'm putting hypers in my engine now and will gap .028 top, .024 second. I will be putting some easy miles on it for a while tho, and slowly increasing boost over time.

14* max timing boosted. I know I will be running 20psi+ so I don't horse around with more timing. Set it at 14* and if issues arise along the way, no problem....hopefully.

AFR's stick around 11.5 ratio. Mine is rich at low boost because I over jet for high boost. Around 15 psi and above most carbs need more fuel. Instead of going crazy rich at low boost, I have the meth come in at 15psi to bridge the gap. It all about what the combo will tolerate as far as spooling vs max boost. I am high 10's afr first spooling and stays low 11's til around 15psi and starts to lean so that's when I bring in 15gph of 80 meth 20 water. I run the carb as rich as possible while in boost to become less dependent on the meth. When 20 psi and on meth, if I see a 12.0 afr, it's time to add more fuel. I feel 12.0 afr is quite risky however I have not had any issues with my combo.

I get away with a lot more than most 300 builds because of a bigger cam(lower dynamic compression) and loose converter that doesn't load the engine at peak torque. Peak tq is likely 3200-3500 rpm? and I don't make serious boost til 3800 rpm. It's neat that the more radical you get with bigger cam, bigger turbo, more meth, the safer you are, to some degree.

I would guess that the ring gap was too tight popping your land off, or lean detonation that can crack and break cast pistons without any damage to the top of the piston or spark plug.
 
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