Autolite 1100 question

Humpbackshooter":35tj690j said:
Thanks Chad for your response. Check that on the tube to the choke. Mine was also a aluminum tube but over the yrs, it had broke off right at the exhaust manifold. So I took a piece 1/4" copper and redid it. As far as the warm air that travels through this tube, its exhaust gases. Correct? That being said....this is air that has traveled in from the carb, ( through the breather ) and when through the atomization process.
I guess what I'm thinking is that......this is air that started off as "filtered air", but becomes dirty as it goes through the combustion process. CZLN6 said that its unfiltered air....True to a point. It is unfiltered air as it travels "back" through the carb again after going through the choke.
Please don't think that I'm trying to stir anything up. Its just a play on words I guess.
Thanks,
Hump

Sorry Hump, that's not entirely correct, the stock Ford exhaust manifold is suppose to have a steel sleeve tube that air is pulled through, then the stock (also steel) heat stove pipe is pressed into it to connect it up to the carb's choke cover. So unfiltered air is drawn from below the exhaust manafold by a controlled vaccum leak up into the choke cover. So now if the exhaust manifold's inter tube is in good condition this is a totally separate system of external or outside air warmed by the heat of the exhaust for the carb's choke. And working as it was designed to you also don't want any exhaust gases to be going into the carb's choke assembly. Good luck :nod: Edited
 
Bubbba.....are you saying that there not suppose to be a pipe that is stuck into the exhaust manifold? That there is a steel tube/sleeve connected to the side (under) of the exhaust and the 2nd pipe is stuck into it and goes to the choke. I was thinking that the hole that's in the exhaust ( a 1/4" ) was where the stove pipe was suppose to fit. I have mine wrong then. :eek:opsie:

Hump
 
Hump, yes there is suppose to be a seperate tube running through the inside of the exhaust manifold from the top and out the bottom. Without seeing a picture of how yours is hooked up it still could be right, depending if you have the stove pipe that's connected to the choke Is pressed into that orginal internal tube. If your exhaust manifolds internal tube is missing or its damaged by rot caused by the exhaust gases (this is a common problem with these decades old parts) and could be allowing exhaust gases into your choke stove pipe. Then you could make a new one to install in the manafold, use an aftermarket choke stove kit, or coil it around the outside of the exhaust manifold and then plugging the old manafold hole. Or in the case of a set of headers coil the choke stove pipe around one of the tubes. Be sure to use the insulation sleeve over the tube too as this helps keep the stove tube from cooling off too quickly (especially in the colder weather) which could cause the carb's choke blade to be partially closed instead of fully open. Good luck :nod: Edited
 
Thanks Bubba. I'll have to check that out and see. The hole is right under the carb. In the middle of the log. I bet its like you said. Damaged or not there. I was thinking that exhaust gases was used to heat up the choke. That being said...CZLN is right that its not filtered. MY Bad. You can lean a lot of stuff here. :thanks: :beer:

Hump
 
"...You can lean a lot of stuff here…."
Even more here:
Performance Handbook from Matt at Vintage Inlines .com ($20?)
/AND/
the "Classic Inlines archive" on the Index page of any forum of this site. After a purchase of the Handbook, while waiting for delivery, Y not not peruse the ford6 archive (of it's original sponsor) for free? Some day U may B outta Qs if U f/u w/these 2!
:eek:
 
HOwdy:

Whoa! Hold on. The hot air comes from a tube like hole cast into/thru the exhaust manifold. The tube to the carb is inserted into the top of the cast-in hole, The bottom of the hole is open to the underside, and the air down there. NOT exhaust gas. Air is drawn in through the hole, passes through the hot exhaust manifold cast in tube and into the choke bi-metal coil bakelite housing by engine vacuum. It is unfiltered air. So, depending on circumstances that air can be somewhat dirty or very dirty unfiltered. Not one of FoMoCos better ideas.

If someone could post a photo of an exhaust manifold that would be helpful.

Some, tuners have attached a copper tube to the underside of the cast hole and run it to the underside of the air cleaner housing, so as to draw filtered air from there. I personally have never had much luck getting a tube to stay in the bottom side hole. Like Hump, I preferred to switch to an electric choke and eliminate the hot air tube.

The hot water tube passing hot water thru the plate under the carb has nothing to do with the choke. It is there to add heat to the carb to prevent carb icing, but that's another story.

I hope that helps.

Adios, David
 
David, I seem to remember reading about stuffing a bit of brass wool in the bottom of the hole in the manifold. Have you heard of this and do you think it's a good idea? The last thing I'd want to do it suck burnt brass into a vacuum hole but steel wool seems like a worse idea.
 
Thanks David for that response. That is where mine is connected but I believe I have exhaust gases coming out of it too. ( IF that is true....then I have a busted/broken small log.) I thought that was the correct place for it. I'll have to check it out and see. I'll try and post a pic too.
Thanks,
Phil
 
Chad......got the handbook bout the time AZcoupe passed. I tried to get it from the web site, but thinks were kinda in a mess. Ended up getting from someone else. And yes there's a lot of info in it. Just got to try and get it all straight. Not put the cart before the horse. :D

Thanks,
Hump/Phil
 
"...the cart before the horse…"
either way, U can still go down the rd.
Hope U found Matt 4 the "Handbook".

Don't C any reference 2 da 'choke stove tube" in it but the pic, sketches & verbage will let U know
"no connection there". Now the PVC system has a" sorta connection there".

Don't 4get to ck the Classic Inlines archive on any Index page 4 this site. Find that, go to appropreate
pages (carb, exhaust) absorbe all U can & U to will move up to "Official Shade Tree Mechanic I" certification.
I'm hopin to achieve the #II rating but have so lill $ 4 parts it will take along time to achieve!

Keep talkin, we'll keep watchin...
 
Howdy All:

Hump- yes, if you are getting exhaust gas from the hot air tube to the choke your exhaust manifolds hot air transfer tube is defective- broken, worn away or ?. Exhaust manifolds are prone to cracking. For safety, plug the top and bottom holes to prevent CO2 from getting into the interior of the car. Bubba described several other ways to get hot air to the choke.

The hot air transfer tube is cast iron and is cast into the exhaust manifold log.

Econoline- I've never tried using steel or brass wool as a filter element in the bottom of the hot air transfer tube so I can't give a difinitive answer, but strange things do happen. Like you, I'd be concerned about drawing small pieces of the material into the carb.

This has been a great "roam around" thread. It started out about the 1100, went to LoM and SCVs, Cleaning the carb, then to hot air chokes, all part of the lowly Autolite 1100. Several of the issues would have been good threads all by them selves. Anyway, it's been a fun ride and got this old noggin remembering and recalling stuff from way back at the beginning. And, going forward, a reference to the hot air transfer tube in the stock OEM cast iron exhaust manifold may appear in a future issue of the Handbook.

Adios, David
 
Yazzz zir.
My take away is "use the ele choke".
(in most carb apps).
Yours?
 
I'll throw in my two cents here, although it may not be worth that much.
Things I've learned on the 1100.

As David stated, often the "problem" with the carburetor is ignition related.

These carburetors need to be cleaned, rebuilt and properly adjusted to work right.

The linkage running the accelerator pump must be properly adjusted/bent so it will start the fuel squirt as soon as the throttle plate starts to open or you will have stall problems.

The choke must be working properly or your car will never run right. In my case I found the tube running from the exhaust manifold plugged with crud. It could never pass hot air to the bi-metal coil so the choke would never open/close properly no matter how it was adjusted.

My '66 Mustang w/California emissions came with a non SCV carburetor and duel advance distributor.
 
Hey Jimij!
How's dat bronk runnin?
Sno in ur per of WY yet?
:eek:
 
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