A "run of the mill" 200 project.

The accelerator pump on there is adjustable via the u-shape bend in the external rod in front.
Squeeze it in for more fuel.
Just scanned the thread and didn't see it mentioned here.
 
Xstacy, wow. That was a lot of great info. I've had to read and re-read it about 3 times.

Since the efficiency of the cylinders is so different, what should my target AFR be? I've been trying for 11.5:1 at peak boost/RPM. When I extended the vent tube to the charge pipe I got down to 12:1ish @5psi with no other modification to the carb. I'm going to try to place the end in a "choke point" at the entry of the carb hat to maybe add more pressure to the bowl through the natural venturi effect of that choke point.

I don't plan on going past 10psi, as I don't have the fuel system to support more than that.

This is the efficiency map I found through Google for my turbo model. It's a T04E .57 trim. I figured I would only flow 20lb max with the stock carb and head at 6-10psi. I know this turbo is a little big but that's ok. It builds boost fine.
 

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Moving the vent tube in the choke point of the carb hat did not do anything. I will be moving to drill the power valve circuit and/or jetting up.
 
In a normal Ford I6, with a conventional 1 bbl carb, you might get 2.5 numbers of air fuel variance toggling between cylinders from 1000 to 5000 rpm on a dyno run. if you use an isolated runner exhaust, and individual wide bands or you can actually check it easy.

As boost ratio goes above 2, Its nothing to be running 15 (stoich) at cyl 3 and 4, and 10 at any one of the other cylinders; conventional thought says Cylinder 6 is supposed to be richer, but no 1 is supposed to be leaner at 15 in unfavourable conditions.

And then there is fuel drop out which then creates a psychotic swing. Drag cars are easy; you just read plugs or cylinder pyros, and adjust out excessive rich or lean.

Ford subtly changed the log from its C1 coded 144/170 days to the highly evolved and refined D8 dog turd you are now turboing...even if you moderted boost, fuel in the cylinder might drop out and not be even.

Best ever non V8 in line ntake manifold? The EAO Pinto 2000. Books exist on that one, and the turbo guys in Eurpe find the 2 liter Pinto makes more power 2-bbl 34 DTML than port EFI. The later 2-bbl Lima 2300 close second, lot or work went into getting inform efficency in those. EFI Turbo intake is great with a four corner center squirter 660 or 700 carb, But the Ford small I6 intake can only be approximately modled in a flow net diagram, and the tendancy for air fuel mix drop out defined and variance cylinder to cylinder can be done only to a degree. Its the ultimate log jam head.

The guys at Ford just dynoed that in Australia, the result was the 2V head. In Argentina, the result was the 2-BBL Holley 221 SP and Solex 34 2-bbl 188 cube ME heads. In the USA, the V8's were the step up option, so a 2V head just wasn't in the hunt. Best result for flow efficeincy was the EO to E1 castings.

Here's proof of Dearborns smarts.

1978 2-bbl experimental head with calibrated valve springs, and sensor for dyno tuning the EGR. Look at how much bigger the log is, and how the 2150 Motor craft base lookes like it gets fuel to the cylinders quicker by having each barrel almost an inch appart.

hEAD_MITT20XE20201090_eX20D7BE9430CA50CA_CARB_XD9BE94588BB_VAC20POD_XE201596_535e_31.jpg


Ther never was an M code 200 2-bbl....it was just another experiment. That year, they down graded the rod...to cast iron...

Each time Dearborn made changes, they increased carb inlet , runner size and volume, and added more integrated EGR ports that did away with the crack prone ones, took the manifold pickups to the front between 2 and 1 and got things pretty even.
 
So I drilled the powervalve holes up one size in the brass fitting. I hoped it would help my AFR. it did not. I guess I'll have to drill the PV to emulsion tube circuit. My emulsion tube only has 3 levels (two holes on either side) so that is ok I suppose.

Access to the PVCR is through a plugged hole. Once I drill the plug material (some sort of lead solder I supposed), then drill the circuit, how do I seal that hole again? Thread it and put a bolt and gasket in there? Re-solder it? If I do that how do I prevent the solder from dropping into the circuit? A bolt? Thanks again in advance.
 
I drilled it and ran a small npt tap into the hole and and used a plug. Inwas only able to get a few threads cut on it however as the tap would run into the channel restrictor orifice. This is what I was talking about as far as the adjusent of fuel on this carburetor, it is NOT user friendly haha.

Fwiw, I also had to epoxy a tube into the top of the power valve and run a boost signal there from the carb as the valve would not reliably stay open at higher boost with just the internal vaccuum passage. Just something to look for.
 
Good luck with that.

I've never been into the Holley 1bbl to modify it in any way.They call these carbs simple, but I don't, its got lots of features and changes.

I think I got mixed up, on the 1945/1946 series, its the Accelerator pump circuit which lookes like a Weber 1-bbl or DG/DFAV series power valve.

To cover the PVCR driilings after opening them ( or it)...the other 2-bbl Holleys carbs have moved to another kind of 4150-4500 Holley type. The Holley 1946 is pre 1957 carb traditional, like the 2210. Not like this 2-bbl. But same idea applies. Like a dentist, drill and fill. If there is just enough room to run a tap into it, then it'll work.



So everyone else knows, for the later 1981 onwards 1946C carb, this is the full schemtic, although its missing a few numbers from 71 onwards....

You have to push the Magnifying glass icon to get it in full size.

http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/xecute6/media/xecute6115/Fig 9 Holley 1946 carburetor.jpg.html
I guess everything has a number if your eyes are good enough.

35 Power valve body ,
37 Power valve pin,
40 Power valve spring


It (the power valve pin) seats into

48, the main body assembly.

Its cross driiled at the base to a power valve channel restriction in the main body.

IMHO, I don't agree with one point of distribution to six cylinders...adding fuel is just like telling six grid iron players to charge six file into a Oone person single file access culvert. Someones gonna get hurt if the ante is upped.

So I guess I have a scratchy response to spikeing power valve supply, and Ive never understood the 1945/46 carb. I grew up on ICH/ICT Weber style carbs...the 1-bbl VNT Zeniths and 1-bbl Bendix Strombergs. The 1966 AP5 225 Valiant we had we never touch the Holley 1929 or 1931 it had. Same with my old 81. Vauxhalls, Holdens, all the time.

Holley 1-bbls and Carter YFA's are actually very different to Webers, and I just leave them alone, and never rebuild them because of the way that US 1-bbls change. The layers upon layers of new info specific to fixing this carb really require a specfic video like the Chrysler 1945 1-bbl video.


oh, and I forgot to add this....dough!

MechRick":1zo0vmar said:
One thing that must be done is the power valve channels must be restricted to lean out the carb and allow it to work with the smaller displacement engine. This is done by drilling and tapping the channels and installing brass restrictors. I buy 6-32 brass plugs (Fastenal is a good source) and drill them.

P5060018.jpg

Clutch and flywheel arrived this week, so installation will happen this weekend.

And this video is good, but its a 1945, not a 1946.

1945=war
1946= Peace.

MechRick":1zo0vmar said:
One thing that must be done is the power valve channels must be restricted to lean out the carb and allow it to work with the smaller displacement engine. This is done by drilling and tapping the channels and installing brass restrictors. I buy 6-32 brass plugs (Fastenal is a good source) and drill them.

P5060018.jpg

Clutch and flywheel arrived this week, so installation will happen this weekend.
 
First fox, now I see that you had written that. Ntp pipe plug it is. Did you eventually seal it up when you got into your AFR range?.
 
I never saw a need to do anything other than the pipe plug as it never leaked and the carb was meant to be a temporary endeavour anyway. I just wanted to finish what lincs200 started and get the carb operable under boost and I did.

For the record, I agree with Dean 100 percent on the single carb issue and had intended to work up a stock log with multiple carbs with boost and I hurt myself and never got back on it. If multiple carbs are beyond your comofrt zone, a 2 bbk Holley or progressive weber would be a great choice. As stated, this carb is an old design and as you are figuring g out is a pain in the ass to tune. The two carbs mentioned above can be tuned in minutes with the still mounted on the intake.

But with that being said, if you are set in using what you have, it can work. PM me if you'd like and I will send you my phone number. I can probably help you via text/or phone if you need any help.
 
:beer:

Yep, what he said...

But you know, its all about whatcha wunna doooo!

I say, darn it,

" work the Holley
work work the Holley,
, my 0ne barrels soo fast its gonna hurt somebody...

I can see it now..one jug in hand, DF90 declared "Duno Y Lincs melted his at 20 pounds doing 13's. I'm at 9 pounds doing 12s..."

oh, and see ABOVE I forgot to add the carb PVCR plug you can use for the Concealment Plug...dough!

"MechRick" 6-32 brass plugs (Fastenal is a good source) and drill them.

And the Mopar video.

The 1946 is pretty cool, but it requires someone smarter than me to make it sit up and beg for more...GO GORRILLA BALLS DF90!


Concealment Plugs are like swim suits, what they show is interesting, what they conceal is VITAL.
 
Thanks again for the info. TBH, I am essentially using this carb as a learning experience. I have an autolite 2100 that I could (and seemingly should) use for the application. But then I am nearly certain I would have to cut the hood, and I don't want that.

I am considering plugging the High Speed Air Bleed first before opening up the PVCR and adjusting cruise with the idle circuit... Just to see how much of an improvement I will get with the stock PVCR. That way if it works, I won't have to do anything, and if it doesn't I can reverse it and dig into the PVCR. Plus, I dont feel like pulling the whole carb again right now (because, though I am ambitious, I am lazy....oxymoronically).

First Fox, I'll PM you. Would be good to have someone on hand that knows this thing. Even google images garnishes little on these carbs.
 
I plugged the HSAB with a paperclip and folded it around the top of the carb rim. Choke stops on it but that's ok. I'll find a more permanent solution. I'm at around 11.4:1 max under boost. Only issue I have now is a tip-in stumble. I assume because the booster dumps fuel and the accelerator pump adds to the flooding for a split second. I tried leaning out the idle control also but I can't seem to get it happy enough to idle. I suppose I'll have to mess with it, until then I'm just going to rely on the transfer slot and Crack the throttle for a high idle.
 
Also, I put a clear fuel filter pre-carb, and am curious as to why the thing seems mostly empty most of the time(at idle). I am thinking it is due to the lack of flow and high heat. I think this may be attributing to my low speed running issues. I am not positive. I think I am going to start with the low speed idle circuit first.
 
I had an epiphany.... the reason the car was bucking and trying to shut off at idle was the timing. 24 degrees advance of base + 22 degrees of vacuum advance? WAYYY too much at idle. So I moved the vacuum advance feed over to the ported vacuum port and she runs like she was factory. Only bad thing is that now it's a little more laggy, but I guess staying safe is better than performance in this situation.

I have also observed that when the accelerator pump has depleted, my AFR rises a bit, so I think I'll end up doing the PVCR circuit drilling anyway to compensate, but overall (if you just wanted to slap a turbo on a 200 i6) the recipe is, plug the HSAB, lock out the timing, and boost reference the fuel pump. Thanks everyone for the help. I'll keep updating this as I continue to DD this to work. Oh, and I put 87 octane in it. I'm probably going to build some sort of detonation detector and see how much timing I can get with 87. Also I may play with developing a cheap water/meth injection.
 
Sounds as awesome as 32.6 US mpg and sub 14 1/4 miles with a turbo 1-bbl.


Lincs200, FirstFox and maybee You Too, Dr eFeNintey.

I like your style....Bookem Derangedfords90. Murder One-Barrel

I REALLY like the late model 1-bbl engine, its got so much to hate with those cast iron rods and enough tubes on it to feed a Texas to New Jersey gas line from just a few junked Foxes, but heck, it was a great way to nothing with a design for 23 years.

Keep the 1-bbl, you sir are a true Hawaii Three-3

200px-Hawaii33OldSign.jpg
 
New update. I'm losing fuel after I do some full boost 3rd gear runs. I don't think the mechanical pump is cutting it. I'm going to run an electric pump I have and boost ref a bypass regulator
 
Oh also my cruise AFR (around 0- 10in/hg) is now around 11:1, so I'm getting 11.5 MPG (plus the lead-foot turbo noise symptom). I think I'm definitely going to have to mess more with the PVCR. I was thinking, what if I completely removed the piston return spring? I know someone mentioned cutting the coils to weaken it but what if it was just loose? That way only when the car starts boosting, the PVCR will be used. Instead of it engaging at the factory spec. (What is the factory vacuum at which the PVCR piston moves?). If I can make the PV piston operate completely under boost then the main system should be satisfactory up until then. I suspect my new cruising RPM/manifold pressure is enabling the PV piston. Thoughts? Besides try another carb (still my backup plan).
 
Wait, are you saying you are making positive manifold pressure at cruise?

What turbocharger are you using again?
 
Well, my cruise is sometimes up a very long hill, so around 50% load I can be just around 0psi. But part throttle 0in/hg to 15in/hg the AFR can be as low as 10.5:1 or lower. In that low RPM, low load I would like to be in the 13-14:1 range. For science sake, I have a T04E .57 trim. It spools pretty quickly all things considered.
 
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