Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Ordered 3 rebuild kits and 3 brass floats for the Holley 1940 carbs. I know they're not your favorite David but makes the most sense for my situation. I will watch Mikes Carburetor videos before rebuilding. I've successfully rebuilt a handful of carbs over the years; I can only think of one that didn't work (an 1100 with a float needle that would stick) so any tips on the 1940 rebuild would be most welcome.
 
I've only ever rebuilt 1 carb and it was a 1940 that I did by watching those exact videos. Everything worked out perfect. I used a harbor freight ultrasonic jewelry cleaner to clean up all the bits and pieces. If I can do it you should be fine! Just be mindful of the check ball(s) and weight!

Good luck! :beer:
 
Here's a thought for you. when you get to tuning the multiple carbs. I learned it from my mechanic uncle 56 years ago. He taught me to be a greasy knuckle mechanic.

Take a piece of small dia. tubing, Or a toy stethoscope, And stick the tube down each throttle bore and listen to the "hiss". When they are all the same, the carbs are "balanced".
 
frm the post "1 carb per cyl"
"...Tuning (syncronising) them is no big deal with a hose, but there is a gadget called the Unisyn that takes all the guesswork out of the job…."
8)
Thnx, yet again Dennis!
 
Thanks fellas, I should have the carb rebuild kits from Mike's by tomorrow.

Meanwhile, my 'wedge' I calls it, arrived today. If nothing else, I hope it resolves my exhaust gasket issues. They seem to blow out at 3-4 ports regardless if manifold or headers are installed. I'll also obtain a higher quality gasket to go with the wedge.

Thanks,
Jeff
 

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yup, dat's it. The thin edge goes in 1st...
 
Disassembled the first Holley 1940, gaskets are pretty stuck on, turned the bowl upside down and dumped this out in my hand...how long does it take gas to turn to complete DUST?? Also has a smell I can't quite identify, but I know I've smelled it before. Im thinking it must be at least 10 years beyond the lacquer smell!
 

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need 2 sip on that frosty bev 2 wash away all that 'dust'.
Just think how nice ur bronk ill B with the 'trips', wont B long now...
 
Ahhhha
("Which end of this screw driver to hold?")

Hey,
I'm assuming this will be mainly an 'on rd' vehicle?
Any off rd trips?
 
Hey Chad no off-road, maybe if I hooked up with some locals I would, but by July I'll have the type of money in this thing that it will not only be strictly street, but seasonal as well! (These dumbasses like salt around here)

Anyway made a little progress today, got one of the carbs cleaned up (bowl gaskets were a HUGE pain, like someone used gasket sealer!!!) and started assembly. Great thing about rebuilding 3 carbs is you don't have to take a bunch of pics cuz you always got a model to look at!

If I get it put together tomorrow I hope to also bolt it to my 170 and test it...gotta figure out the vacuum stuff though because it's non SCV
 

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thanks for the tip on the frame/forward header tube interference. Today I couldn't settle the flange up to the head (sitting off the motor on the bench) until clearencing a bolt hole. They fit fine. The 'wedge' is well located after lota grinding w/a burr. Do U know if the packaged gasket (silver w/the 2 donuts) is the better -or- is it the grey one Matt shipped that's the "special"?

have you checked the "hood room" on the additional hight the 1940s/offy adds?
Some 1 put a car 170 in my bronk pre-1983 B4 I got it & the hood scrapes there (the thumb screw on ac has dimpled the metal :shock:
They kept the bronk pan so no 'introductions' between the D44 & it but
I DO have TWO dipsticks ('pan located' on pass side, 'car 170' on drivers side)!
 
Well the guy (Mike I believe) from Classic Inlines had stated that the special gasket worked better for him, so I'd go with that. I believe that I'll just keep blowing them out until I get the 'wedge' installed.

Never checked the clearance, would probably be wise to do so, but if I had and foresaw an issue I may not have gone forward with the plan. Guess I'd rather cross that bridge when I come to it.

I hate everything about the pan style dipstick!
 
1strodeo":1ca6jn7q said:
Well the guy (Mike I believe) from Classic Inlines had stated that the special gasket worked better for him...
I hate everything about the pan style dipstick!
1) Yeah, but is it the 'grey' or funky silver ? (U only get one?)

2) Don't worry, the C4 specific to the bronk may B the only 'pan fill' & pan style dipstick! in a C4…
another issue…

3) I have a list of 'raise the hood' work-arounds (7 or 8?) if needed for all 60's/70s fords (many gotit) if U need it later.
 
As I recall they are basically the same gasket, but the special had a (gray?) coating over the funky silver. It was probably the one that wasn't packaged, just thrown in the box by Matt.

The dipstick I was referring to was the engine dipstick that goes into the side of the pan, leaks like hell!
 
1strodeo":2brg8p8x said:
As I recall they are basically the same gasket, but the special had a (gray?) coating over the funky silver. It was probably the one that wasn't packaged, just thrown in the box by Matt.
The dipstick I was referring to was the engine dipstick that goes into the side of the pan, leaks like heck!

OK, I'll go wid da grey, thnx.

"...leaks like heck!…"
and falls out!

Any mods U guys can lend…I'd appreciate it.
(don't wanna braze a patch, ie just make a new 'correct sized' hole as 1 guy did…
isn't there a better design there like Lokar or another does?)
 
:unsure: Hi 1strodeo_One way to fix the leak is to remove the dipstick tube.Make make a gasket to fit the shape.Very lightly coat the gasket with #2 Permatex and re attach it with screws and nylock type nuts.Won`t come loose or leak again.I have generally used allen head type screws for the job.Course,I`m sort of a "belt and suspenders"type of guy.I also use lock washers with the nylocks. :rolflmao: :rolflmao:
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Thanks Leo, so I assume you must remove the pan to do this since you also use the nyloc nuts?

There's so much crud around mine I cant even tell how its attached to the pan (4 screws? rivets?) :(
 
:D Yes,the pan must be removed.That will give you a chance to clean out any crud in the pan.Rivets are the way that I have found the tube to be attached.With a couple of exceptions where the pan had been removed before.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Got the first 1940 built and installed, good news is it actually works (never doubted my carb rebuild skills til that last 1100) though haven't road tested yet. Also haven't really tuned it as i spent most of my limited time working on the linkage because the 1940 throttle connection (to the cable linkage) sits lower than the 1100 did. Got the bracket that holds the cable positioned but in the process cut the coolant hose that runs under the carb, which will go away anyway with the Offy setup. Baby steps...
 

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