Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

That chem-dip is some powerful stuff! Don't do much for gasket removal though :cry:

Once I get them all tuned in I'll polish them up like David said, or try to at least with Brasso or something...there I go again stick with the plan thanks Seth!
 
Road test complete, seems more responsive but top end on highway is still less than before I installed headers (kinda juggling 2 threads here) so it dawned on me that since it was maxing out 60-65 mph at high RPM I should run the vacuum advance and sure enough I could tell an improvement, got up to 70 probably could've gotten a couple more mph.

HOWEVER while tearing down the other two 1940's I broke one of the idle mix screws, so now I'll either go with my 1100 as my third carb or find another throttle body for the 1940 (I made a mess trying to extract the rest of the screw).

I could put the 1100(SCV) as the center carb but I'd rather keep the vacuum advance on the middle carb...or does it matter? The outer carbs won't kick in until high RPM so does it matter which carb feeds the vacuum to the dizzy?
 

Attachments

  • 19402&3.jpg
    19402&3.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 322
Most tri power setups use the center carb as the distributors ported vacuum hook up and some also use a choke on the center carb too, the out'er carb's don't need the chokes. As far as if it matters were you tap in for the ported Distribitor vacuum I would lean towards the center as being the best location though I am also sure it could work on any of the carb's. I have also seen some early multi carb systems were they hooked all the ported vacuum ports using hard lines soldered together into a log and then T'ed into it near the center for the Distribitor. With progressive throdle linkage using the Autolite 1100 carb in the center will work fine however its SCV sure isn't ideal for the best performance when used with your DuraSpark II Distributor but in a pinch you could also go with straight Manifold vacuum hookup. You should be able to find another 1940 easy enough though so all the carb's match. Good luck :nod:
 
1strodeo":1o8j29n5 said:
Road test complete, seems more responsive but top end on highway is still less than before I installed headers (kinda juggling 2 threads here) so it dawned on me that since it was maxing out 60-65 mph at high RPM I should run the vacuum advance and sure enough I could tell an improvement, got up to 70 probably could've gotten a couple more mph.

HOWEVER while tearing down the other two 1940's I broke one of the idle mix screws, so now I'll either go with my 1100 as my third carb or find another throttle body for the 1940 (I made a mess trying to extract the rest of the screw).

I could put the 1100(SCV) as the center carb but I'd rather keep the vacuum advance on the middle carb...or does it matter? The outer carbs won't kick in until high RPM so does it matter which carb feeds the vacuum to the dizzy?


you can convert the scv carb to ported vacuum with 3 grub screws

. is a thread on it here somewhere , but also here:
http://www.63fordfalcon.com/articles/au ... matic.html
 
Thanks for the tip gb500, may look into that, I should probably check the fitment of the 1100 on the Offy adapter before I do anything else. I know the middle hole is a bit larger than the outers

Bubba i'll see how they look cleaned up and polished first. Besides, if I paint the carbs, then ill have to paint the engine!! :LOL:
 
This project is on hold for a few months while the body is being removed, blasted, patched and painted.

Hopefully I wont look back on this thread in a year with no progress!

Jeff
 
U Go, Jeff!
"few months while the body is…"
'never' is a time to rest, if U got energy, interest, $…
U can stay ahead of it if continuing while they're doin their thing.
(y)
 
I'd really like to keep at it, but not much I can do while its gone.

I thought about bringing the frame/drivetrain home while the body was being blasted, but the body and frame will only be apart for like a week, and at least three of the body mounts on the frame need repaired, so I'm just gonna leave it with him.

I COULD rebuild this 200 I have in the garage...
 
Ahhh, 3 wk?
Not enuff time for the engine work, I'll "let it slide".
:LOL:
No, seriously, ur movin along good! will keep my eyes pealed as U
cont. w/something I'm fascinated 2 C in process!
Thanks 4 sharin ur build w/(me) us~
(y)
 
I was asked to do the impossible with nothing for nothing...I told my boss it would be done Friday...The fallowing Monday he asked if it was done, I said no ,he said, you said it would be done Friday,...I said yes I did but I did not tell you which Friday....He was pissed... :eek:opsie:
Hope every goes well for you.
 
"...not tell you which Friday…"
gotta use that Mon!
 
So I've had my chassis the past week, got it all cleaned up, 2 coats of POR-15, drivetrain painted, now I've got some time to play, thinking about installing the Offy adapter and the 3/4 exhaust port divider...will keep you posted. (Pic is just adapter bolted on)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3028.JPG
    IMG_3028.JPG
    2.2 MB · Views: 296
  • IMG_3025.JPG
    IMG_3025.JPG
    1.7 MB · Views: 296
that the 3.8 bent6 starter?
if so U must got headers in the future?
(y)
 
chad":38nktruq said:
that the 3.8 bent6 starter?
if so U must got headers in the future?
(y)

thats not the 3.8 starter, which won't fit highmounts,





thats correct starter, its a REMY 25064 (4 1/2" casing), E1BF 11131 BA, same as Bosch SR549N.

You cant fit the wrong starter to a highmount, the 4" casing version for C5's, the actuator for the starter gear hits the engine.

Although the exception is even a 390 FE starter will fit,

but not a SBF 5.0 or Essex 90 3.8 V6.

If its a low mount 250 or low mount 200, any Bent 8 or 6 starter will fit
 
"...won't fit highmounts…"
opp, totally missed that wuz thinkin mine (bronk 250ci).

Leave it to Dean's sharp eye…
Hey it's not as early here
(midnite right now in MA, USA)
4th of July,
a few :beer: after the fireworks….
blah blah blah
(actually I got no excuses).
:oops:
:nono:
 
Back
Top