66 mustang 200 carb & distributor question

Boburban30

New member
So my car runs like crap and my mechanic suggested I rebuild the carb and replace the distributor. However, I am unable to rebuild the carb because nobody can figure out what model carter it is. Since the carb is not original and I cant fit an air cleaner on it (because of clearance) I decided to just replace both.

I looked around online for a carb and couldn't find an Autolite 1100 that was a decent price. I read that the 1101 carb is pretty much a direct fit with the exception of boring out the plate under the carb. I did purchase a reman carb from autozone last night this is made for a 1969 mustang 250. This is the carb I was suppose to order right? Am I correct in saying this is pretty much a direct bolt-on to my 200?

Now, I a confused about the distributor I should be ordering. I believe I should be looking for a 1968-69 mustang 200 distributor, but should it be the dual vacuum or single? :help:
 
Yes, the 69 4.1 had an Autolite 1100 w/o a scv, with it you can use a 'modern' dual advance distributor, i.e. ds2. It is the largest 1100 out there that is compatible with the duraspark ignition system, afaik. From what you posted I assume you have a small log head and a dsII ignition already and you're looking for a carb?
 
It should be an 1101. Find a picture online and compare it with what you have.
If it was me at this stage I would investigate the DSII ignition system custom curved for your vehicle.
Also get a copy of the Falcon Performance Handbook as soon as you can. It is a great resource for the Ford 144,170,200 and 250 owner. The authors of the Handbook are on this forum and will help you with any questions as will the other members. See link below.
It is worth way more than the few dollars it cost and will explain a lot very quickly. I refer to my copy often.
1966 Mustang is a nice ride.
 
'aint sayin much' I think is cuza the 'log intake' inherent to these engines.
The DSII & 1101 are great combo & add pep to what U have.
Plez look at the "classic inlines archive" @ the Index page of each of our forums. It is a great compendum of info on these motors. You may wish to order the "Performance Handbook" from one of our members as well (20 or 25 $) Matt at vintage inlines dot com. With these two sources your understanding of these motors (144 -300ci/4.9L; 1960 - '96 efi) will increase greatly.
There's alot that can be done. It's really about the application of ur vehicle, time, $, and interest…
(y)
 
Econoline":30p3y2gs said:
Yes, the 69 4.1 had an Autolite 1100 w/o a scv, with it you can use a 'modern' dual advance distributor, i.e. ds2. It is the largest 1100 out there that is compatible with the duraspark ignition system, afaik. From what you posted I assume you have a small log head and a dsII ignition already and you're looking for a carb?
I am assuming that I have a small log head. I do not have a ds2 ignition, my question is, what stock distributor can i use that is not ds2, that will work with the 1101 carb I just ordered?
 
After the DSII the next best stock points type Distributor is the 1968 to 74 units, a single vacuum advance can will work fine for your application too. Good luck :nod:
 
"...is pretty much a direct fit …"
how do U know? Have you checked the casting numbers
on ur head & block to tell what it is you actually have?
 
Howdy Bob and All:

Yes, the '69 250 Autolite 1101 is the slam dunk best bolt-on carb upgrade for your '66 with a 200. Yes, it is a direct bolt-on except for clearancing the larger butterfly valve.

And yes, on the '68 & '69 points type distributor. It will have centrifugal and vacuum advance. It will have a ported vacuum source for 1101 carb. The downside of these distributors is that they are still point type distributors, requiring regular maintainance. Also, these distributors are the first generation of FoMoCo EPA friendly stuff. Try to get one that has a single, vacuum advance only vacuum canister. Most have a vacuum canister with both vacuum advance and vacuum retard. You do not want the one with vacuum retard.

Do consider the DuraSpark II ignition system from 1975 and on. It is compatible with the 1101 ported vacuum, is pointless, and is a complete system including the distributor, coil, plug wires and ignition module. If possible get the complete system from your local recycle yard and get the wiring harness that links it all together. This system is a big improvement over all previous systems and requires little or no maintenance.

What ever distributor you decide to go with a hotter coil is worthwhile. Also a recurve of the centrifugal is another great upgrade.

Keep us informed on your progress. Enjoy.

Adios, David
 
"...clearancing the larger butterfly…" (plate.) done very easily by hand
with a 1/2 round mill-bastrd file in a funnel-like fashion (ie higher @
top where it needs to clear that round pivoting plate & tapering dwn).
 
Hi, as mentioned, match the carb and distributor. First on the carb the throttle plate is larger so the mounting on the intake needs to be opened up, without getting metal into the engine. While possible, it is a lot easier and safer to do it with the head off. Next is the distributor. Yes for the best performance electronic is the way to go. If you get a pre electronic distributor you can of course live with the points and condenser, or go with a pertronics conversion. And get the Falcon Performance Handbook to get the most out of your engine. Good luck
 
If you can tell me the casting numbers on your head I can look it up for you in my Falcon Performance Manual to id your head.
 
CZLN6":dc97i4gh said:
Howdy Bob and All:

Yes, the '69 250 Autolite 1101 is the slam dunk best bolt-on carb upgrade for your '66 with a 200. Yes, it is a direct bolt-on except for clearancing the larger butterfly valve.

And yes, on the '68 & '69 points type distributor. It will have centrifugal and vacuum advance. It will have a ported vacuum source for 1101 carb. The downside of these distributors is that they are still point type distributors, requiring regular maintainance. Also, these distributors are the first generation of FoMoCo EPA friendly stuff. Try to get one that has a single, vacuum advance only vacuum canister. Most have a vacuum canister with both vacuum advance and vacuum retard. You do not want the one with vacuum retard.

Do consider the DuraSpark II ignition system from 1975 and on. It is compatible with the 1101 ported vacuum, is pointless, and is a complete system including the distributor, coil, plug wires and ignition module. If possible get the complete system from your local recycle yard and get the wiring harness that links it all together. This system is a big improvement over all previous systems and requires little or no maintenance.

What ever distributor you decide to go with a hotter coil is worthwhile. Also a recurve of the centrifugal is another great upgrade.

Keep us informed on your progress. Enjoy.

Adios, David
Thank you David. I do want to go with the point system this summer. When you talk about the vacuum advance and vacuum retard you are referring to what autozone refers to the dual vacuum distributor, correct? I want to order the single vacuum? I just want to make sure I order the correct one.

I also noticed you are co-author of this book everyone keeps telling me to buy. What is the quickest way for me to get one of these? Can I paypal you some cash?
 
B RON CO":2cbl210m said:
Hi, as mentioned, match the carb and distributor. First on the carb the throttle plate is larger so the mounting on the intake needs to be opened up, without getting metal into the engine. While possible, it is a lot easier and safer to do it with the head off. Next is the distributor. Yes for the best performance electronic is the way to go. If you get a pre electronic distributor you can of course live with the points and condenser, or go with a pertronics conversion. And get the Falcon Performance Handbook to get the most out of your engine. Good luck
I need to pull the head? I thought that I can just pull of the heat plate, bore it out, and put it back on?
 
bmbm40":1q94rqqu said:
If you can tell me the casting numbers on your head I can look it up for you in my Falcon Performance Manual to id your head.
Thanks for the offer but the car is currently buried in the garage and it's way to cold out there to clean it up right now. I can't wait for a nice weekend to melt this snow so I can clean the garage out.
 
Boburban30":1a50zfw7 said:
CZLN6":1a50zfw7 said:
Howdy Bob and All:

Yes, the '69 250 Autolite 1101 is the slam dunk best bolt-on carb upgrade for your '66 with a 200. Yes, it is a direct bolt-on except for clearancing the larger butterfly valve.

And yes, on the '68 & '69 points type distributor. It will have centrifugal and vacuum advance. It will have a ported vacuum source for 1101 carb. The downside of these distributors is that they are still point type distributors, requiring regular maintainance. Also, these distributors are the first generation of FoMoCo EPA friendly stuff. Try to get one that has a single, vacuum advance only vacuum canister. Most have a vacuum canister with both vacuum advance and vacuum retard. You do not want the one with vacuum retard.

Do consider the DuraSpark II ignition system from 1975 and on. It is compatible with the 1101 ported vacuum, is pointless, and is a complete system including the distributor, coil, plug wires and ignition module. If possible get the complete system from your local recycle yard and get the wiring harness that links it all together. This system is a big improvement over all previous systems and requires little or no maintenance.

What ever distributor you decide to go with a hotter coil is worthwhile. Also a recurve of the centrifugal is another great upgrade.

Keep us informed on your progress. Enjoy.

Adios, David
Thank you David. I do want to go with the point system this summer. When you talk about the vacuum advance and vacuum retard you are referring to what autozone refers to the dual vacuum distributor, correct? I want to order the single vacuum? I just want to make sure I order the correct one.

I also noticed you are co-author of this book everyone keeps telling me to buy. What is the quickest way for me to get one of these? Can I paypal you some cash?
I hate to tell you, but what you get in a re-man. dist is junk.
I put these distributors on my sun tester & the curve you get will get the engine running, but that's it. Why waste your money & do it right the first time. Bill
 
Matt at vintage inlines (a 'member' here) has the book and the parts,
check out his site, he caters to us falcon motor guys.
While waiting please go to the "Classic Inlines archive" on any of the Index pages
here on this site.

As I look at the subject line of your thread I see these (3) suggestions as all U need for the next month or so.
AND that's if you work fast.
8^0
W E L C O M E !!!
 
Howdy Back Bob:

You can get the Handbook from Matt at Classic Inlines for the best price and fastest. Thanks for the interest.

On fitting the 1101 on your head, the best way is to remove the 1100 carb first, then remove the adapter that sits between the carb and the cast log. You will need to flare out the top of the adapter/spacer. I've heard of folks doing the mod with rat tail files, half round files and rotary files. What ever works. Set up a contained work area as metal shavings fly everywhere.

On the one I did, many years ago, the taper only went done about a 1/4". I measured and test fit until the taper cleared the 1101 buterfly as it opened. IIWIYS, I would not bore out the carb hole with the head on. I have done some grinding in the carb hole with the head on but only after carefully stuffing oily rags down into the log, in both directions and into the bottom of the carb hole, to catch shavings. This is scary. I still have nightmares about metal shavings getting into the engine.

Yes, on the distributor. Single vacuum. Did you say that you are already using a '68 distributor? If it is a vacuum advance/retard unit you can get by very well by disconnecting the vacuum retard hose at the inside nipple of the canister. Leave the nipple open/not plugged but plug the hose where it goes to the carb. That will allow the vacuum advance system to function.

When you get to the car as the weather warms keep us posted on the conditions you find. On both the carb adapter/spacer and what distributor you have no. No need to buy another until you assess what you have. Bill (wsa111) is right about the risks of buying a rebuilt unit.

Adios, David
 
CZLN6":wmmx3wah said:
Howdy Back Bob:

You can get the Handbook from Matt at Classic Inlines for the best price and fastest. Thanks for the interest.

On fitting the 1101 on your head, the best way is to remove the 1100 carb first, then remove the adapter that sits between the carb and the cast log. You will need to flare out the top of the adapter/spacer. I've heard of folks doing the mod with rat tail files, half round files and rotary files. What ever works. Set up a contained work area as metal shavings fly everywhere.

On the one I did, many years ago, the taper only went done about a 1/4". I measured and test fit until the taper cleared the 1101 buterfly as it opened. IIWIYS, I would not bore out the carb hole with the head on.




Adios, David
Just to be clear, it is not necessary to touch the bore hole, correct? If i file down the hole in the top of the adapter/spacer, everything should bolt right up?
 
Congrats on scoring an 1101. Some say it's oneada best carbs ever made.

1) measure bolt hole spacing, compaire to same on carb. No match, "no go".
2) "Go" - Place carb on head, operate lower circular plate,
3)stuff oily rags in hole to catch metal chips, file in a slanted fashion (U just wanna make
the upper area lrg enuff to operate the carb. It can B narrower @ bottom) so as to equal the sz of the lower plate.
Number 1 is to make sure the carb fits,
Number 2 is to see the sz difference between current 'hole' & ur upgrade carb.
In number 3, IF there's a difference it is the filing U do to adapt the 'hole' to the new carb.
4) vac up metal filings. Observe closely as rag is removed to catch additional filings. Vack w/narrow extension
to capture additional filings.
5) place carb on, operate plate observe for freedom of movement. "Go" no more filing. Bolt down w/gasket. Attach linkage.

how ya doin on ur ignition?
 
Howdy Bob:

YEs, Flare the top of the adaptor, only as much as needed to clear the larger 1101 butterfly.

Adios, David
 
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