Turbo 240 or 300

sorry its been awhile just came across this, subscribing! loads of work and exciting progress, curious on the pistons as well! (y)
 
Icon pistons and scat rods. He was pretty excited on them he seemed to think that is is going to be a total one off and one hell of a mean machine!!!! I told him that other people have turboed this motor but that u had never seen in a 1966 Econoline lol.IMG_20170411_100733229.jpg
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I'm Curious?
Those are Scat Pro Stock "I" beam rods.

The Scat 6125 "I" beam Chevy small block rod doesn't show as being available in the Pro Stock series.
Plus the SBC rods have a .940" Bid End width which is smaller than the Ford 300 .994" BE width.

The Scat 6215 Jeep rods have a larger BE width that can be cut down to the Ford 300 BE width.

The Big Bock Chevy rod BE is .992" and can be made with the smaller 2.100" rod journal to work on the Ford 300 crank.

Just wondering what rods those are or did your machinist have custom rods made?
 
I'm not sure but I will ask him that too. This may be a stupid question but will they not work if the BE width isn't correct? What do you think if the pistons? The mechanic was super excited on the Pistons talked them up real good.
 
Ramian17":1njqx8e0 said:
I'm not sure but I will ask him that too. This may be a stupid question but will they not work if the BE width isn't correct? What do you think if the pistons? The mechanic was super excited on the Pistons talked them up real good.

The pistons are perfect with the top ceramic thermal coating and the skirt coatings.

The rod BE width with the proper clearance to the crank rod journal width keeps the rods small end centered in the piston and controls oil coming out from the rod bearings on the crank. The clearance is around .015"
You certainly don't want the rod walking side to side any distance on the crank journal
 
Glad to see another Econoline! I have a second gen E100 and I've been thinking about doing this exact same thing for the past year. I haven't really had the time or money to initiate it though. There is a tone of information on this thread that will help me when I do though.

I'm not as committed to keeping the doghouse unmodified (although it would be nice). My idea was actually to use one of those throttle body injection kits on an offenhauser 4 barrel intake and just do a blow through set up. Something like this:

http://fitechefi.com/products/30004/

Do you happen to have the specifications on what was done to your motor? I'm just trying to make a list so that I can start budgeting.

Also, are you using a manual or automatic transmission? And I know y'all were talking about different ignition setups, but I was just thinking of staying with my Pertronix ignition that I installed and just upgrading to an msd blaster coil or something similar. Any thoughts? And how is your progress coming along??
 
So I finally got my engine block. It has a steel crank, forged rods, forged pistons, roller rockers, hydraulic lifters, custom ground cam, hardened valves, valve seats, and push rods on exuast and intake $$$$$$$$$ I need to install the high flow oil pump which i read isn't that easy. Any advice is always welcome, I don't honestly know but I think I need to get a custom harmonic balancer made, if yes where? I also need a gear to go on the balancer. Can I use all stock 300 parts from a 1990s fuel injected truck for that? Then it will be alternator, high flow water pump and I think that's it. Then off to the master welder for custom header and fuel injected intake. With a turbo attached all under a stock looking dog house!!!!!! Yeeeee haaaaaa
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You shouldn't need a custom harmonic balancer. That's it in the box in the lower pick. These six cylinders are balanced well enough that they don't have the big ones like on the v8s. Your engine builder should have balanced your motor too I would think. Did you ever figure out what pistons and rods you used?
 
Gotcha yeah I thought that he was going to put the oil pump and the balancer on. I was kinda up set that they weren't on there. I was just so happy to be able to go pick it up. It has been there since the beginning of December. So do I need to take it to a shop and have the balancer put on and balanced? Does the gear for the crank sensor just bolt on the balancer? Can I use a stock gear or do I need a custom one made for my application. Also the balancer I have is from a 240 is that going to matter now that its a 300? They are scat rods and icon pistons. Both forged. IMG_20170613_070524105.jpg IMG_20170613_070520463.jpg
 
Where can I find a nice and tall valve cover for a 240? Needs to fit over roller rockers. I had some cheap chrome valve cover on that was actually hitting the stock rockers that where in there.
 
Perfect I want it, how much you want for it? Is it taller than stock? Or taller than the cheap tin chrome valve cover you can get for these motors? Do you know if it will clear roller rockers? Any advice on the high volume oil pump installation? Do you know if I will need a crank sensor aka a gear on the harmonic balancer? Or will a cam sensor be enough? Sorry for the 20 questions game.
 
So it's official she is %100 ready to go back into the van. Just gotta get some buddies together to help. Does anyone know if both the holes on the driver side that are being pointed at in this pic have oil pressure going to them? I know the hole on the right with a fitting in it, was the oil pressure sensor sender location.

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Also does anyone know if the upper rear hole that is being pointed at in this pic has coolant being pumped to it? I know that the lower hole with the fitting is the old location for the temp sensor sender.


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I'm trying to figure out my oil and coolant supply for the turbo. Any ideas?
 
The two small holes below the blocks side cover go into the block oil passages and will have oil pressure. Look at were your oil pressure senders wire it's white with red stripe is closest to one of those oil passage holes and install the oil pressure sender there you can plug off the other one or use as oil supply for the Turbo. Did you already make an oil return fitting in your oil pan or the lower part of the block for the Turbo drain?

In the bottom picture the larger hole just below the head and at the rear is were your coolant tempature sender is installed the other hole can be plugged off or used as coolant supply for the turbo. Good luck :nod:
 
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