61 falcon "rusty bob"

my distributor is stuck so that will probably die on its way out. ill have to replace that anyway though with the new carb I'm assuming?
i also have this carb but I doubt its worth anything
0Z83RWe.jpg

hVYTo25.jpg

yIp7Fpp.jpg

Vvx6OPU.jpg
 
my weekend didn't go as planed but I finally got the aluminum and carbon fiber in, so i can make some parts. I think ive decided on the 2v 2100 carb. and on another plus, my grandfather just got a new corvette, fully loaded, brake package, z06, all the cool stuff, except its auto. he is getting old though

BZMtkgD.jpg

1wUH8Zx.jpg

pJlh8It.jpg
 
that carb (I believe it's the 1) is VERY desriable to some hot roders.
It is hi priced by the e-bay sorts.
A (sight) glass (bowel) is placed on the end by many.
Some here useem in the triple carb set up. That may B one way to consider (as I C it due to viewing ur other pic)? C 1 of powerband's restomods as a good example of this use.
 
johnws6":3j31wrsq said:
for the moment since I just need it running what seems to be the standard solution for carbs? this is what I have now, do I need to fix it or replace it? just something simple to get it running while I'm fixing everything

Nupp7To.jpg

8or6tIP.jpg

:beer: That's a good looking Vet! If you need your Falcon running quickly right now I would just clean up and install a rebuild kit in the 1966 Autolite carb (they are a excellent carb) when used with a stock LoadOMatic type Distribitor you already have. The carb looks to be fairly compleat and it is a real good match for the stock distributor now in your 1966 200. That should make it run decent enough for the time being. Later on if you plan to do some mods to the 200 then a DuraSpark II ignistion system and either a Autolite / Motorcraft 2V or Holley 2V would be a good combo for a mild performance build, there are also many others that work great including a big faveriote of mine that just looks like it belongs on an early Falcon engine and they perform great too, that's the Offy 3x1V intake setup, all you need is another Holley 1V like you have on the old 170 to use for the two end carb's (also see the below post). Good luck :nod:
 
johnws6":nkfmyojt said:
my distributor is stuck so that will probably die on its way out. ill have to replace that anyway though with the new carb I'm assuming?
i also have this carb but I doubt its worth anything
0Z83RWe.jpg

hVYTo25.jpg

yIp7Fpp.jpg

Vvx6OPU.jpg

Yeah that Distribitor isn't going to fit into your 200 anyway it has a different smaller shaft size! It really isn't any better or worse performance wise than the one you have in the 1966 engine so forget trying to use over the 200 one in it. Basically thes Falcon engine Distributors came in three favors the 1960 to 1967 (Calif. engine specs are different and got the newer point Distribitor a year earlier) these were all the LoadOMatic types a fairly decent system but only for a pure stock engine. In 1968 to 1974 the Falcon engines finally got a new point Distribitor with the combo mechanical / vacuum advance system this was a huge improvement in performance over the old LOM system. Than in 1975 until the end of inline six production of 1981-83 depending on if a 200 or 250, they had the DuraSpark II ignistion system another great leap in Performance. This is a great upgrade for a stock 200 or a Hi Performace build.

That old Holley carb is a great one to use on the Tri Power Offy 3 X 1V intakes (end carb's). That 170 engine probably has an adjustable rocker arm set & push rods, that's a good up grade for your 200 if you happen to go to a more Hi Performance cam. Lastly the 170 head can be swapped onto the 200 for little more compression though the later 1977 up 200 / 250 heads are better still with larger valves and the better valve seats for today's fuels. (y)
 
bubba22349":ativzrgz said:
johnws6":ativzrgz said:
my distributor is stuck so that will probably die on its way out. ill have to replace that anyway though with the new carb I'm assuming?
i also have this carb but I doubt its worth anything
0Z83RWe.jpg

hVYTo25.jpg

yIp7Fpp.jpg

Vvx6OPU.jpg

Yeah that Distribitor isn't going to fit into your 200 anyway it has a different smaller shaft size! It really isn't any better or worse performance wise than the one you have in the 1966 engine so forget trying to use over the 200 one in it. Basically thes Falcon engine Distributors came in three favors the 1960 to 1967 (Calif. engine specs are different and got the newer point Distribitor a year earlier) these were all the LoadOMatic types a fairly decent system but only for a pure stock engine. In 1968 to 1974 the Falcon engines finally got a new point Distribitor with the combo mechanical / vacuum advance system this was a huge improvement in performance over the old LOM system. Than in 1975 until the end of inline six production of 1981-83 depending on if a 200 or 250, they had the DuraSpark II ignistion system another great leap in Performance. This is a great upgrade for a stock 200 or a Hi Performace build.

That old Holley carb is a great one to use on the Tri Power Offy 3 X 1V intakes (end carb's). That 170 engine probably has an adjustable rocker arm set & push rods, that's a good up grade for your 200 if you happen to go to a more Hi Performance cam. Lastly the 170 head can be swapped onto the 200 for little more compression though the later 1977 up 200 / 250 heads are better still with larger valves and the better valve seats for today's fuels. (y)

My seized engine is a 144 I'm pretty sure, also the dizzy in it is broke and both carbs are pretty beat, for now I'm probably going to go with the 2100 ford carb if I can find one, I've got some really good plastic sitting in gas right now, if it doesn't dissolve in going to make a nice adapter to fit the carb on the log manifold I have. Though I am thinking of getting a set of infectious and cutting up the extra head just to see what I can make
 
Ok then if it's a 144 there is little in the way of parts that you can use on your 200 that would only be the adjustable rocker arms and pushrods. Anyway sounds like you have a good plan a 2100 or 2150 is a great way to go for an updated carb. Good luck :nod:
 
bubba22349":rb7bgiu7 said:
...sounds like you have a good plan a 2100 or 2150 is a great way to go for an updated carb. Good luck :nod:

Some do a 'direct mount' by machining a flat spot on the log where they place the 2v.
U may have seen or read bout this in the "Handbook" or above "Tech Archive". It's a lill
involved but still a basic operation. However a great many have avoided disaster by using
a 2 or 3 step process rather than just wackin a flat spot in, boltin a carb on.
 
well my weekends haven't gone as planned lately but I finally made a few molds for parts, I'm not satisfied with them yet but hopefully the one I just finished will be good.

also I got the engine to crank just pouring gas in the carb so at least it will run if it has a good carb. if my carbs weren't of very questionable condition I would rebuild one of them, sadly they are both very rough.

suppose that means I'm in the market for a autolite 2v carb. the distributor ive seen many people say use a pertronix to run it and it would be fine, so I think ill use that for the original look.

I'm going to sandblast my extra valve cover because I'm not happy with the one I have. I didn't clean it enough

also fixed the harness for a 1 wire alternator and ill run a better relay for the horns so it will be cleaner with less wires
h1Vec5g.jpg

dQcdN1I.jpg


on a side note I got some decent new wheels for the s10 and ordered some bf Goodrich radial t/a tires for it. 295 on the back!!!

and helped a friend overhaul his 2.8 s10 with a new oil pump, gaskets, seals, clutch and a few other things. and since we were there decided to throw on some roller tip rockers for fun
VFNUoFD.jpg

mPNRgl5.jpg
 
johnws6":iu2rkuuf said:
also I got the engine to crank just pouring gas in the carb so at least it will run if it has a good carb. if my carbs weren't of very questionable condition I would rebuild one of them, sadly they are both very rough.

suppose that means I'm in the market for a autolite 2v carb. the distributor ive seen many people say use a pertronix to run it and it would be fine, so I think ill use that for the original look.

If your going to use the newer Autolite 2V carb then you will also need to change out your current old Load O Matic Distributor too, using in a Pertonix unit in it won't help it when used with the later model carb's! You will have to upgrade your Distribitor, your choices are 1. the 1968 to 74 points type (this would still keep that original look) and then you can install the Pertonix unit in it for a good working unit, 2. the DuraSparkII (DSII) electronic can be used with the 1975 (DSI cap and rotor it would still look original too). Other units that can work are 3. a Mallory Duel point or 4. Mallory Electronic 5. an Accell Duel point / (NAPA auto parts "Echlin" also had their version both units were made by Echlin) these also look vintage too. or 6. then there is the copy of HEI. , 7. DUI. these last two in my opion look a bit out of place on these vintage six'es. Good luck :nod:
 
this might be a stupid question but is there really a big difference between the LOM and a standard mechanical/vacuum advance dizzy? does the carb send a different signal to it than regular vacuum?
 
johnws6:3ggqphu9 said:
this might be a stupid question but is there really a big difference between the LOM and a standard mechanical/vacuum advance dizzy? does the carb send a different signal to it than regular vacuum?

It's not a stupid question at all, there is a lot of confusion by many new owners on the operation of these Load O Matic systems! Yes for sure there is a huge difference between the LOM Distributors used on almost all Ford / Mercury engines starting back in 1949 until 1956 on the V8's and on most six's until 1967 compared to the later model mechanical / vacuum advance Distributors as the LOM doesn't have any mechanical advance system only the load type of a Vacuum advance.

Yes the old style carb's that have a SCV (Spark Control Valve) dose send a different Vacuum signal to the Distributor to advance the timing based on engine load it is a combination of the engine Manifold Vacuum and the Carb's Ventura Vacuum. In its day it was a very decent working system though it is only good for a mostly all stock engine when using a matched SCV type carb with the LOM distributor. The LOM doesn't work like any other Distributors you might have worked on! You can read about how these LOM systems work at this link, ci/Loadomatic.html

One of the newer Distributors is the only way to go when you plan on modding your engine for more Performance and even on a stock engine there is a substantial performance improvement over a LOD. My personal favorite for all my Ford engines no matter if it's a Six or V8's is to use a DuraSpark II system. Good luck :nod:
 
welp got my parts in finally today. I hate myself for going hei but I keep telling myself its not the end solution. anyway here we are.

been fixing random things under the hood and hopefully the drive shaft will be cut down soon.
I need a different yoke for it though so it will fit the newer tranny

if anyone is interested I can make them a 1 inch spacer to make a chevy one wire alternator fit their original bracket. its much easier to wire obviously and looks really clean since its less wiring. also I can anodize it different colors, ill be making this one black just so it blends well
cflF7Tp.jpg


4EXSEcc.jpg

QZjPojW.jpg

K6C6iry.jpg


hes sleeping on the job and its only 4 am!
xvG5XNR.jpg
 
did U ID the head (thru casting numbers)?
U Go RB!
 
LOL :unsure: that's kind of a hard mattress he's using! :beer: congrats your on the way to a nice performance boost. (y) :nod:
 
chad":2oe7eiyd said:
did U ID the head (thru casting numbers)?
U Go RB!
Have not even thought to verify anything, any reason to do so other than it might not a 200? I still haven't gotten around to buying the book, every time I think about it I'm not able to do so
 
C6 DE 6090 B2 will be a 200 for sure.

Nupp7To.jpg


Cross check is on the pad on the block at the gasket level by the PCV valve or road tube, there is a code stamped T to denote a 200.
 
"... the pad on the block…"
Yes, head may B different motor than block. Block casting is on pass. side, near down tube of exh.
:nod:
 
BEFORE I GO FURTHER I DESPERATELY NEED A 28 SPLINE YOKE FOR A 200 I6 3 SPEED PM ME IF YOU HAVE ONE OR AT LEAST SOLID INFO ON WHERE TO BUY ONE THAT FOR SURE FITS A 200 I6 3 SPEED

so now that my desperate plea is out of the way this is where I am
I need brakes and a fuel tank but for the first time it cranks on its own fully functioning carb and with the key no less!
I haven't gotten to do as much as id like lately since ive been working on my s10 race truck but here we are.
the plug wires are v8 hei wires since I'm being a little cheap at the moment with all the different projects.
nOvAaac.jpg


it was really cold but we got a supposedly 289 v8 four eyed fox. I'm pretty sure its a 302 though I haven't checked numbers.
going to Tennessee Saturday to get a 90 model fuel injected 302 to swap into it
Ge7pLaf.jpg


don't have a picture of my red s10 except the engine back when I was still getting it running
euAWmvF.jpg

and heres the teal turd we call "freedom"
VAIvQWM.jpg

5ZmxkQA.jpg
 
good to hear about your progress, thanks 4 comin back.

I see you have an HEI distrub on there...what R the other components in ur ignition system?
 
Back
Top