Turbo 240 or 300

I don't think I ordered enough bends in the two inch stainless. I will need to order some more of that cheap stuff. I ordered the SS for the flange that will bolt to the head. My two old headers had there own flanges. Should I make one flange aka one header? Or should I go two sperate flanges and then we could probably keep them separate all the way to the turbo flange? We started by making a tool to press the tube into a rectangle to match the turbo flange. When we start cutting these tubes do we want any gap between the pieces when we weld them? Or do we want zero clearance between the pieces?
 
I would make a one piece header flange. If you have two pieces then you would need to have them both bolted to the head to get tube alignment at the other end.

If you mean spacing the tubes apart to get penetration, I would say no.
I would grind an angle on the tube walls at the ends of both tubes and butt them together so you have a "V" to fill in at the weld joint.
 
One piece... will do. the flange for the head side will be here tomorrow and we are pressing two tubes into rectangles as we speak.
 
Success... Kinda. So what's the trick? we pressed the end of two tubes into rectangles to match the Turbo flange. But because the flange is so tight in the middle as soon as the tubes go back to round they are in the way of each other. We don't have a way to hold a mandrel bend so that we could press a rectangle into the end of one of those but even if we could it would have to be right at the start of the bend. So our plan was to press about an inch worth of the tube into a rectangle. Then cut out a small wedge right as soon as it clears the turbo flange, so that we could bend it out of the way of the other tube? Just feel like our way is kinda ghetto? Gonna go ask an exhaust shop tomorrow if they can form the ends of mandrels?
 
The tubes transition from a rectangle to an oval then to a round.
The two tubes still have to angle away from each other after the turbo flange but the oval section minimizes the angle.
 
Yeah the problem is that it needs to go to a mandrel in a matter of inches. Tomorrow I will mock it up first thing and see if we can make one longer, to keep it an oval for a little bit. I drew a sketch of what I think it will look like what do ya think. The tube on the left might be able to be a couple inches before it needs to turn to miss the water pump but the right tube needs to turn almost immediately to make room for the other tube. Jahahahahaha go times. Also in the pick the right tube going to the front collector will snake up and down and not left and right just couldn't draw it 3D. Hopefully all six tubes going into the collectors will be made the same length and the snaking will hopefully make the 2 inch tubes the same length which hopefully makes this thing screem!!!!!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/d4h27jhsvmkp4 ... 1.jpg?dl=0
 
It is more important that the primary tubes are the same length than the two 2" tubes.
The extra bends in the 2" tube will make it flow different than the straighter 2" tube and will also create more heat loss.
It would be best if you just made it without extra bends.
 
Alrighty then I was just going with what some one at a turbo shop had told me. he said that the extra bends where ok. He said that you are looking for the same volume between the two headers because of the twin scroll? But if you say straight that will be cheaper and easier so I'll go that route if you say so.
 
So I've been reading that thread about the crank sensor and the crank trigger. Is there an easy way to know where to leave out the two teeth? Or it's sounding like I need to build or at least figure out where the sensor is going to go?
 
The reason I suggested not doing the wavy pipe is that you are trying to make up for a 13.4" difference in pipe length between the two and that would take some big waves to make that up in such a short distance.

The better way is to have the forward header collector turn back about 30* and the rear header collector turn forward about 30* similar to the Stock EFI exhaust manifolds. The outlets of the two collectors will be closer together.
Then the forward 2" pipe would have a 60* turn to run back to the turbo flange and the rear 2" pipe would have a 120* turn to run back.
The two pipes would run side by side all the way back to the turbo flange and be the same length.

Have the harmonic balancer made with all 60 teeth. Then after you mount the sensor you can grind the two teeth off where you need the missing teeth to be.
 
Nice got a rough cut on the header flange today. Hopefully we can get that design header to fit in the doghouse.
 
Finally made some more progress but it's slow, this stainless steel crap is super tough lol. When I cut it out with the plasma I did a horrible job. I have what, I am calling, rough milled the first three cylinders of the flange. Still have the last three to mill. The first three took me hours!!!! But other than watching a ton this was pretty much my first time using a plasma or a mill lol. I have used them both before, very minimally, but never on anything this heavy or tough. We are still planning on having to smooth it by hand with a die grinder or such, after the milling process. You guys have any better ideas of how to go about this. Also we need a template for the head. We are going to go old school with thin cardboard and a soft mallet. Does any one know where I could get a template for a 1966 Econoline 240 head? Does the head need to be machined in the upper corner of the intake port for the injector spray path? Also I bought an intake/exhaust gasket for a 1991 ford 300 and it doesn't seem to have a notch in the upper corner of the intake port fort the spray path is this the wrong gasket?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t3tubqxi32xtd ... 1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ilijqc87g2zwg ... 8.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3tqgqpaht4zp4 ... 8.jpg?dl=0
 
The EFI head doesn't appear to have a notch in the upper corner either.

I prefer to use thin aluminum to make a template. It gives a sharper working edge than cardboard.
A ball peen hammer will cut out the (or at least mark well) the outline of the ports
 
Crazy I guess I'll go with no notch in the head then. I talked to the dampener doctor today he wasn't sure if we should cut the 60 gears in the front of the V belt, because of the tiny amount of movement between the dampener and the crank. Due to the rubber between the two. What do ya think about that? Should I have him grind 60 teeth into the front or make me a custom wheel gear that will bolt onto the front of the crank? If I go with the custom wheel should it still be 60 or go with the three style? You did say this is better than just using the distributor for the crank trigger right lol?
 
He is correct. The dampener does vibrate back and forth with the different torsional harmonics from the crank.
Have him make a 60 tooth wheel that bolts to the inner hub.

Going with three is not as acurate and you would just use the PIP signal from the distributor instead.
 
Awesome thanks pmuller. I'm not sure there is enough room between the balancer and the block. I am assuming that if you are telling me to do that, that they there is lol. If there isn't though can the gear go on the front?
 
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