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Tractor Puller

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Lunatic Fringe
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Tractor Puller

Post #1 by Lunatic Fringe » Mon Jan 01, 2018 4:18 pm

Hello all, new member here. Not new to performance engines, new to the BB6. Ran a 514 alcohol injected mini-rod puller 30 years ago, getting back into a limited class with a 300-6. Carbureted, gasoline, cast iron block rules.
MODS; Alum rods, 12.1 pistons w/ ported EFI head,(Q16 Race Gas),2.02 Int./1.6 Ex. w/1.7 roller rockers,MSD w/rev limiter, 1 3/4 3 into 1 upright headers, aluminum sheet metal intake. 3500 stall C4,9" rear.
Until we find a steel crank we'll run the CI one with an aftermarket damper. Since we don't have the room limitations of a stock vehicle, I hope to build a main girdle once I figure out how much I can space the oil pump down.
The BIG question I'm struggling with is camshaft. Will run a solid flat tappet for now, just not sure on specs.
Will post pics as soon as I figure that out.

Wesman07
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #2 by Wesman07 » Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:48 pm

Welcome to the forum! Sounds like an interesting build. I am very curious as to what truck this is going in and what your plans are for the rear suspension?! Also, how are you mounting this motor??

I'm sure someone will chime in on your cam selection
In-lines we trust

86 f150 300 efi with advanced stock cam. Np435, Dana 60/ 10.25, 35" BFG's, four link front suspension with 12" travel fox coil overs, custom deaver leaf pack in the rear.

pmuller9
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #3 by pmuller9 » Mon Jan 01, 2018 10:22 pm

You are looking for peak torque just over 3500 rpm which works for the 300 six.
If you use a stepped header you can take better advantage of a tight LSA cam profile.

You will need the head flow numbers once the head is completed.
Then have Crower Cams and Jones Cams give you a recommendation

The cam profile will probably have around a 248 degree .050" duration on a 106 degree LSA. It will sound Nasty
Valve lift can be in the .550" to .575" range.

You can extend the oil pump as far as you need along as you increase the length of the hex drive shaft the same amount and shorten the oil pickup.

Are you also restricted to the stock iron head meaning No hybrid aluminum head?

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #4 by Lunatic Fringe » Mon Jan 01, 2018 10:24 pm

https://imageshack.com/i/pnW3xFOmj[image][/image]
Lets see if this works.

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #5 by Lunatic Fringe » Mon Jan 01, 2018 10:55 pm

Thanks Pmuller9. 1 3/4-1 7/8-2" steps into the collector sound good? Head will be sent to the machine shop once all the parts get here. Cam number sounds very close to the Crower 19312.

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #6 by Lunatic Fringe » Mon Jan 01, 2018 11:16 pm

Haven't pulled the oil pan yet to determine how much we're spacing the pump, but do have an ARP drive from a 351 to shorten.
We will be doing a welded aluminum head at some point but we want to get this one running properly first. It may take a bit to find 3 heads that fit.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #7 by pmuller9 » Tue Jan 02, 2018 10:28 am

Lunatic Fringe wrote:Thanks Pmuller9. 1 3/4-1 7/8-2" steps into the collector sound good? Head will be sent to the machine shop once all the parts get here. Cam number sounds very close to the Crower 19312.


The header and cam combination looks good.
it will require the EFI head to flow just over 200 cfm @ .600 valve lift.

I was going to recommend using a 1.6 ratio rocker until I remembered the lift doesn't include valve lash.
A 1.7 ratio rocker would put the actual valve lift at .575"
I prefer a steel rocker arm over aluminum.
The BBC roller rockers work on the 300 six head.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1620-12

Use a 3/8" pushrod with Comp 3/8" adjustable guide plates.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4839-8

Make a jig and weld the pairs together. The spacing is far enough apart where the plates want to turn when you tighten the studs.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hw9cogn2posft ... 2.JPG?dl=0
The guide plate centers will be wider than the valve spacing centers because of the pusrod angle.
I used a 1.940" center to center on the guide plates.
You may want to double check that figure for your cylinder head

This is the same setup with 5/16" pushrods for a street engine. The stock pushrods shown (during Mock-up) was replaced with longer thick wall Manton pushrods for the correct geometry.
BBC Comp 1.6 ratio rocker arms.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/raics8rx0g9rx ... 5.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dlwsfdl82ziie ... 4.JPG?dl=0

If a person wanted to spend the money they could buy the individual shaft mounted roller rockers and make a rocker stand that bolts to the existing stands on the head.

arse_sidewards
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #8 by arse_sidewards » Tue Jan 02, 2018 1:46 pm

pmuller9 wrote:
Lunatic Fringe wrote:If a person wanted to spend the money they could buy the individual shaft mounted roller rockers and make a rocker stand that bolts to the existing stands on the head.



https://www.fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=76571

There's a set of Jesel 2.0:1 rockers and a 3ft length of 3/8 O1 tool steel rod that have been sitting on my desk for a very long time now. It's a low priority. I don't like that the rocker arms are aluminum but considering the kid of use they're built for and how I'll use them I don't think longevity will be a problem.

With adjustable rockers you may be able to use push-rods from a Chevy 292 or something else that's taller than a 300 if the pedestal is the proper height.

You'll need a taller valve cover. That shouldn't be an issue if you can weld.
1994 F150 4x4 8ft, engine is basically stock.

66" leafs, extended radius arms, lockers in both ends, nothing special.

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #9 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Tue Jan 02, 2018 6:51 pm

I've been waiting for someone to try one of these in a puller.

I would suggest steel aftermarket rods. The only thing aluminum rods will buy you is the opportunity to change them out every couple of hours.

Do you shift gears during a pull? I suggest a GM Powerglide trans with a Turbo 400 input shaft. I also think a looser torque converter is what you will need. Maybe in the 5000 - 5500 range. Powerglides can be built with aftermarket parts to handle up to 2000 hp. Much more R & D work has been done on the 'glide that a C4.

I have two solid lifter cams that I would like to either trade or sell for a hydraulic cam. I am building a special engine that has to have a hydraulic cam.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #10 by Lunatic Fringe » Tue Jan 02, 2018 10:26 pm

Thanks guys for the replies, they are appreciated.

Could someone tell me if the pictures are there? If so, it shows the aluminum rods and SS BBC rockers.
Got a set of 7/16 studs and 3/8 guide plates with them. Will cut and weld the guide plates to work.

Rods are billet GRP's,we don't shift and will only do 15-20 hooks this year.

Tires are 42" tall,132" rollout. With the 2.46 first will need to use a mid 5.00 ratio in the 9".

Because puller tires operate best with controlled slippage as opposed to the much more direct bite of a slick, it tends to be easier on transmissions. Had a C4 built 30 years ago when we sold our original tractor that is still in use.

If need be we have a slider clutch and Lenco.

FTF, could you provide the cam specs please?

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #11 by pmuller9 » Tue Jan 02, 2018 10:32 pm

The only image I see is the engine in post#4

How long are the rods center to center?

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #12 by Lunatic Fringe » Wed Jan 03, 2018 12:03 am

Ok, I'll keep trying on more pictures.

Lol, that's our core engine. Came out of a combine. The same farmer has another I'll grab in the spring.
Image
Rod length is 6.57".

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #13 by arse_sidewards » Wed Jan 03, 2018 8:52 am

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:Do you shift gears during a pull?


With the head limitations on a 300 I don't think it's very well suited to any class long enough to shift gears. Shifting gears tends to favor high rpm power bands and high peak outputs because you can start at high rpm and drop it back down with a gear shift so you don't run out the top of your power band. That doesn't play to the 300s strengths.

A class that only allows OE heads, caps displacement in the 300ish ballpark and is too short of a pull to bother shifting gears would probably be ideal for the 300.
1994 F150 4x4 8ft, engine is basically stock.

66" leafs, extended radius arms, lockers in both ends, nothing special.

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #14 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:02 pm

Lunatic Fringe wrote:FTF, could you provide the cam specs please?

Sure.

Cam #1:

Crane
274* I / 284* X
@ .050" - 231* I / 241* X
Gross lift .483" I / .486" X
LSA 110* w/3* adv built in
New. Old. Stock.

Cam #2

General Kinetics
310* I / 320* X
.354" I lobe lift (.570" w/ 1.61 RAR)
.371" X lobe lift (.597" w/ 1.61 RAR)
The fuel pump lobe has been ground off this one for aluminum rod clearance. This cam was used in an H/MP drag car that operated at 6800 - 7200 RPM.
Good Used Condition
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #15 by Lunatic Fringe » Thu Jan 04, 2018 12:17 am

Cam #2

General Kinetics
310* I / 320* X
.354" I lobe lift (.570" w/ 1.61 RAR)
.371" X lobe lift (.597" w/ 1.61 RAR)
The fuel pump lobe has been ground off this one for aluminum rod clearance. This cam was used in an H/MP drag car that operated at 6800 - 7200 RPM.
Good Used Condition

I like this one, how much are you asking? Are there lifters with?

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #16 by Lunatic Fringe » Sat Jan 06, 2018 12:34 am

Yes or no on using a high volume oil pump?

Would restricted pushrods be necessary?

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #17 by pmuller9 » Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:34 am

The preference is not to use the high volume oil pump if possible because of the extra stress on the cam drive gear.

Having said that, If you use the solid lifters with the oiling hole in the lifter bottom (Highly recommended) and have extra bearing clearance with the aluminum rods then the extra oil volume will be needed.

I haven't restricted oil to the top. Others may have additional info.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #18 by arse_sidewards » Sat Jan 06, 2018 2:13 pm

pmuller9 wrote:The preference is not to use the high volume oil pump if possible because of the extra stress on the cam drive gear.


Wouldn't the hex drive shaft or the distributor gear be the weak link by a long ways? I wouldn't have thought the cam gear would be something you'd have to worry about.
1994 F150 4x4 8ft, engine is basically stock.

66" leafs, extended radius arms, lockers in both ends, nothing special.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #19 by pmuller9 » Sat Jan 06, 2018 4:30 pm

arse_sidewards wrote:Wouldn't the hex drive shaft or the distributor gear be the weak link by a long ways? I wouldn't have thought the cam gear would be something you'd have to worry about.

OK I should have said Distributor gear.
The distributor gear wears faster and sometimes the gear pin shears.

Probably won't be a problem on a competition engine that runs only minutes during a season.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #20 by arse_sidewards » Sat Jan 06, 2018 5:57 pm

pmuller9 wrote:The distributor gear wears faster and sometimes the gear pin shears.


It's been awhile since I looked at one but does the gear have the female drive for the hex shaft of is the drive for the hex in the distributor itself (which is driven by the gear via the pin)?
1994 F150 4x4 8ft, engine is basically stock.

66" leafs, extended radius arms, lockers in both ends, nothing special.

Fordman75
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #21 by Fordman75 » Sat Jan 06, 2018 6:15 pm

The oil pump drive shaft goes right into the distributor shaft. With a high volume pump don't be surprised if you shear a roll pin or two on the distributor gear.
Ted

54 Ford F100/F150 4x4
300, NP435 4spd, NP205 transfercase

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #22 by arse_sidewards » Sat Jan 06, 2018 7:40 pm

Fordman75 wrote:The oil pump drive shaft goes right into the distributor shaft. With a high volume pump don't be surprised if you shear a roll pin or two on the distributor gear.



I think a solid steel pin would happen after the first time :lol:
1994 F150 4x4 8ft, engine is basically stock.

66" leafs, extended radius arms, lockers in both ends, nothing special.

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #23 by Lunatic Fringe » Sat Jan 06, 2018 10:18 pm

Ok,I understand all that, but riddle me this. Because I haven't torn my engine open yet, I'm unable to compare those parts against similar on the 460 and Cleveland motors I've built over the years. Have run hi-vol pumps on those without issue. What makes it a problem on the 300's?

By the way, we are not the first to run this combo out here. We saw one come in 3rd at an event competing against 350-400 CI V8's this past year. Competed against one 30 years ago that did very well for himself against BB's.

I'll try and find pictures of them and try to post, but I apologize now for my poor posting skills.

FTF were you able to come up with a price on that cam?

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #24 by pmuller9 » Sun Jan 07, 2018 12:33 am

Lunatic Fringe wrote: Have run hi-vol pumps on those without issue. What makes it a problem on the 300's?

I shouldn't have brought it up because you never get the complete story when a failure is reported.
As long as the gear is a good press fit on the distributor shaft taking the burden off the pin, the hex shaft has some clearance so its not pushing up on the distributor shaft and the gear alignment to the cam gear is good there shouldn't be a problem even with a HV oil pump.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #25 by drag-200stang » Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:36 am

Right or wrong, I add another stock pin just above and 90o to factory pin..This is on a 200 with a 250 pump (same size volume as a 300) with longer 427 gerotors installed ..Plan to tighten up the leaks and run a lower volume pump.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #26 by arse_sidewards » Sun Jan 07, 2018 11:37 am

drag-200stang wrote:Right or wrong, I add another stock pin just above and 90o to factory pin..This is on a 200 with a 250 pump (same size volume as a 300) with longer 427 gerotors installed ..Plan to tighten up the leaks and run a lower volume pump.


Care to enlighten us on the details of these mods.

The HV pump for the 300 is only $80 but if the dimensions of the stock 300 pump housing lend themselves well to installing different rotors then it might be interesting to look into installing a pair of rotors that were designed with the aid of modern knowledge of hydraulics, computer simulations and materials.
1994 F150 4x4 8ft, engine is basically stock.

66" leafs, extended radius arms, lockers in both ends, nothing special.

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #27 by Lunatic Fringe » Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:40 pm

I'm glad you did bring it up, it's still useful information. Failure teaches more than success.

Perfect world I will put a dry sump or external pump on it but that won't happen this year.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #28 by pmuller9 » Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:58 pm

Glad you feel that way.

What will you be doing for pistons?

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #29 by wallen7 » Sun Jan 07, 2018 3:30 pm

What used to do on the dist gear was to put a smaller diameter roll pin inside the standard size roll pin or go 90 degrees from the pin and slightly below the standard pin and drill the gear and shaft to install a 2nd roll pin. We ran straight 50w oil in our cars and when it was cold it put a lot of load on the dist gear. We about 60 psi oil pressure cold at idle and 40 - 45 hot.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #30 by drag-200stang » Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:06 am

arse_sidewards wrote:
drag-200stang wrote:Right or wrong, I add another stock pin just above and 90o to factory pin..This is on a 200 with a 250 pump (same size volume as a 300) with longer 427 gerotors installed ..Plan to tighten up the leaks and run a lower volume pump.


Care to enlighten us on the details of these mods.

The HV pump for the 300 is only $80 but if the dimensions of the stock 300 pump housing lend themselves well to installing different rotors then it might be interesting to look into installing a pair of rotors that were designed with the aid of modern knowledge of hydraulics, computer simulations and materials.

It is a lot of work but no high volume pumps for a 200, I had no choice..This was a long time ago not sure if sizes still match up..What I had to do is press out the drive and press in the 250 drive ..make a spacer the thickness of the difference, using the cover as a template, bolt it on and bore it out to match pump bore.. Of course you would use a 300 pump..For the small six guys the 250 will not bolt on a 200 with out re drilling block mounting holes and blending the oil passages, pound out the pan for the larger pump and making a new pickup.
The point of this post was I did not trust the heavy load to one pin and the two pin has worked well.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #31 by Lunatic Fringe » Mon Jan 08, 2018 10:13 pm

pmuller9 wrote:Glad you feel that way.

What will you be doing for pistons?




https://www.summitracing.com/int/search ... cation=int

Will use these for now until we go to a welded head.

Looks like I'll be cross pinning the distributor gear.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #32 by pmuller9 » Mon Jan 08, 2018 11:04 pm

Do you already have the pistons and rods?

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #33 by Lunatic Fringe » Tue Jan 09, 2018 12:33 am

pmuller9 wrote:Do you already have the pistons and rods?


Image

Rods, yes, pistons will be ordered once I disassemble block.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #34 by worken2much » Tue Jan 09, 2018 5:57 am

Those rods are just too pretty to use, very nice.

I've run Melling high volume oil pumps so far in my circle track motors with good results. Although, I have often wondered how much additional HP is used up turning the high volume pump at 5-6,000 rpm. Maybe someone here knows? I have heard of one successful, hard core, drag racer that intentionally set up his sbc to have minimal oil flow to minimize parasitic loss. He had a series of lights, yellow, orange, red that came on progressively as the oil pressure went down. He would fiddle with oil weights and oil level until the red light would come on / flicker at the lights. All in an effort to reduce hp loss from pumping excess oil. Dancing with the devil...but.

One of the Ford six racers I know has had issues with too much oil at the top end. He turns his 6,200 - 6,500. We have discussed the possibility of restricting flow by insertion of small roll pin into the pushrod. Seems like it would work.

FWIW, I have one motor with hydraulic lifters running on a cam meant for solids. My cam grinder advises that it is acceptable. Per him, the ramp rates are slower for the solid lifter, consequently it is ok to run hydraulics in their place. Also advised that the inverse is a bad practice. So far, no troubles.

Looks like a cool project. Good luck with it.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #35 by arse_sidewards » Tue Jan 09, 2018 6:21 am

worken2much wrote:Those rods are just too pretty to use, very nice.

Although, I have often wondered how much additional HP is used up turning the high volume pump at 5-6,000 rpm. Maybe someone here knows?

It only takes a big electric motor, a multimeter, two pumps, and a bucket

worken2much wrote: I have heard of one successful, hard core, drag racer that intentionally set up his sbc to have minimal oil flow to minimize parasitic loss. He had a series of lights, yellow, orange, red that came on progressively as the oil pressure went down. He would fiddle with oil weights and oil level until the red light would come on / flicker at the lights. All in an effort to reduce hp loss from pumping excess oil. Dancing with the devil...but.


It's an SBC. He's rebuilding it every winter anyway.
1994 F150 4x4 8ft, engine is basically stock.

66" leafs, extended radius arms, lockers in both ends, nothing special.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #36 by worken2much » Tue Jan 09, 2018 9:06 pm

Arse,

Not quite that simple to develop meaningful numbers. Was hoping someone knew. Reducing parasitic Hp loss is of interest.

Sbc drag racer was pulling motor down multiple times per season.

Thanks,
Worken2much
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #37 by arse_sidewards » Tue Jan 09, 2018 9:55 pm

worken2much wrote:Not quite that simple to develop meaningful numbers. Was hoping someone knew. Reducing parasitic Hp loss is of interest.

I completely forgot that it's also going to depend on pressure which is going to depend on how much oil escapes though the engine at a given RPM
1994 F150 4x4 8ft, engine is basically stock.

66" leafs, extended radius arms, lockers in both ends, nothing special.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #38 by Lunatic Fringe » Tue Jan 09, 2018 9:59 pm

I had the absolute good fortune a few years ago and was able to travel with an NHRA caliber Pro Stock team in Europe. GM engine unfortunately, but got to see and do things I had only dreamt of.

Yes, they were running a dry sump, but they were using 0-10 oil. Poured easier than water,lol.

We have a leftover 55 gallon drum of 50 W from the 80's ( High Zinc) that we'll mix with 0-20 synthetic .

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #39 by Lunatic Fringe » Wed Jan 17, 2018 12:06 am

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Western ... p_activity

Can't seem to post the 300-6 puller video here, but I did post it on Western Canada Truck and Tractor Pulling Facebook page. Also posted our 514 and one with a blown Boss 429.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #40 by old28racer » Tue Jan 23, 2018 1:57 pm

Anything new on the 300 puller?
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #41 by Lunatic Fringe » Wed Jan 24, 2018 12:42 am

Thanks for asking on progress. Since this build is different than most on here I wasn't sure how it would fit in.

Bending and welding the roll cage, LOTS of notching.

Got myself a sponsor over the weekend. Extreme Engine out of Calgary, Alberta. He did the Top Fuel motor converted to diesel that's on YouTube. They'll be doing all my engine machine work.

I'll post a few pictures once more parts arrive.

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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #42 by old28racer » Wed Jan 24, 2018 12:56 pm

If it's got a Ford 300 between the rails I'm interested. Please do post some pictures and information as the build moves on.

Everyone has their on idea on engine builds, but this will be a first for a modified puller with a 300 motor.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #43 by Lunatic Fringe » Wed Feb 14, 2018 10:56 pm

Roll cage tacked up.[image] <a target="_blank" href="https://imageshack.com/i/polJahUEj"><img src="https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/280x200q90/924/lJahUE.jpg" border="0"></a> [/image]
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old28racer
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Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Tractor Puller

Post #44 by old28racer » Fri Feb 16, 2018 8:58 pm

Cage looks great, nice fabrication. :mrgreen:
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

arse_sidewards
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #45 by arse_sidewards » Fri Feb 16, 2018 10:01 pm

old28racer wrote:Cage looks great, nice fabrication. :mrgreen:

Needs more triangulation! :rolflmao:
1994 F150 4x4 8ft, engine is basically stock.

66" leafs, extended radius arms, lockers in both ends, nothing special.

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #46 by Lunatic Fringe » Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:34 pm

arse_sidewards wrote:
old28racer wrote:Cage looks great, nice fabrication. :mrgreen:

Needs more triangulation! :rolflmao:


Thanks!

More will be added later, I need to make sure all the other parts in that area have room. Things get real tight real quick.

Building the brake pedals, master cylinder and caliper mounts.

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chad
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Location: Lawrence Swamp, S. Amherst, MA

Sled Puller

Post #47 by chad » Thu Mar 08, 2018 12:56 am

"...Reducing parasitic Hp loss is of interest...."
that's Y the C4 (least parasitic of the autos).

Wouldn't the biggest 1V cab he can find B the ticket too?

On the cam - Schniedrs (isn't that the 1 w/the 'Iron Cross" logo?) will custom grind for about the same price as an off the shelf.
This is a TQ motor not race. Telephone and Jerry (the son) will give some good consultation & U can order what the 2 of U decide.
I think the power is at 2000 RPMs - please list the correct here (if known by u). The 6 is good cuz U don't rev it (spin tires) like an 8 & can keep traction.

Not sure but U may wanna use the EFI exh manifold. Alternately, some use the "Heavy Duty' too.

Someday I'd like 2 go to a pull. Don't know nuttin bout them. Wonder how fur they gotta drag for a qualifyin run? Now horse pulls I've been to (had some Percherons back in the day). Ox? yeah, I kinda get that too...

Rootin U on w/this build! Many guys here wanna race. I, possibly like U, seek tq not HP.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #48 by Lunatic Fringe » Thu Mar 22, 2018 12:50 am

2 things need to happen during a pull to have maximum success. 1, you need to get as much weight as possible onto the drive tires. 2, you need to be able to accelerate the tractor and sled to as fast as possible as quickly as possible before the weight starts to add drag to the pan.

Basically max RPM=max tire speed=max ground speed and distance. You need to rev way above max torque because once the drag starts to hit it will pull the motor down.

[image]
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[/image]

My oil pump spacer,1 1/2" billet aluminum.Gains me an equal clearance to the main. Now I can add studs and a main girdle.
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pmuller9
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #49 by pmuller9 » Thu Mar 22, 2018 12:57 am

Nice Work :thumbup:

Lunatic Fringe
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Re: Tractor Puller

Post #50 by Lunatic Fringe » Thu Mar 22, 2018 1:26 am

pmuller9 wrote:Nice Work :thumbup:


Thanks!

Now I can order main studs. Will be using 4.75 long studs to allow the thickness of the girdle. plan to shorten an aftermarket pump drive from a 351W to use.

My original oil pan is a centre sump, so I'll cut it up to add a deeper rear sump. Plan to test fit the rear sump pickup tube from a '95 to see if it will work. If we get the weight balance wrong and get the front end too high I don't want to suck air.

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