Blowin' Smoke

:unsure: Hi Matthew.Easy to find.Ace Hardware,Lowes or any big box or hardware store.It is a standard size.IIRC 1/4" pipe.Get a nipple about 2" long,Get a union to fit and then just fit it all together.Oh yeah.Put some teflon tape on the threads to prevent leaks.Should`nt take more than 30 minutes at most.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
"...find that manually…"
Yes, great vids on line.
 
Hi Folks,

Still here. I've been out of town for some time. Unfortunately, I was sent the wrong Tee fitting for the oil sending unit/mechanical gauge. The new one should be here in 3-4 days, so hopefully will be able to get everything set up and get an accurate readying. I purchased a new mechanical gauge and also a new sending unit, in thinking David was correct and it's faulty.

One other thing I noticed during idle is a slight popping sound. Not a backfire by any means, but a quieter popping ever 4-5 seconds. No extra puff of smoke or anything. Does this match up with the valve seals? Or would this be something different? TIA. I've yet to finish up the timing, hoping to get to that in the next week or so.

Cheers,
M
 
Could be a carb issue, could be ignition, could be valves. A lot of times you'll see someone ask, "have you done a compression and leak down test?" b/c that answers the question of whether the valves are good and if there is a problem, the leakdown confirms if it is in fact the rings or the valves.
 
Howdy M and All:

"Will the timing light tell me what TDC and initial timing is?"
The timing light will tell you what the initial timing currently is. Once you get the timing light hooked up and the engine started, with the vacuum advance disconnected and the vacuum line from the carb plugged, the timing light will point to the highlighted mark on the damper and timing tab. You are looking for the "before" setting before you change the timing setting.

"Or will I need to find that manually?"
The timing light will not tell you if the timing notch on the damper is at Top Dead Center. You will have to do that manually. The quick and dirty way is to remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine until the #1 piston is at the top of the cylinder. The timing notch on the damper should be real close to the "0" on the timing tab. You will not need a timing light to see this. If the "0" and the timing notch are close, you are probably ok. IF not, the timing ring may have slipped. IF so, establish a new timing mark on the damper.

On the "Popping", try lowering the engine idle speed first. Set the low speed idle screw to the highest vacuum. IF that doesn't take care of the popping, start looking for a vacuum leak and/or a spark leak somewhere.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
Hi All,

Long time no talk. With winter here in Ohio and a one year old to keep me busy, I haven’t had much (read:any) time to tinker around. This upcoming weekend I plan to remove the carb for a rebuild (Autolite 1100 covered in gunk with a stuck open choke) and replace the valve stem seals.

For the valve stem seals, my plan is to use the air compressor method and fill the cylinder with compressed air. Has anyone used this method? I’ve seen a few vids online that seem to work well. Does each cylinder need to be at TDC or can I just work down the line?

What else will I need to remove or consider in order to do this work? I know I will need to remove the valve cover and assuming the rocker arm assembly. Anything else? Any tips on removing the assembly? I’ve never done this sort of work before. Thanks in advance as always.

Cheers,
M
 
tryin 2 catch up alill, Matthew.
Did some re-reading...
I assume U ck the pan 4 dents? The "low oil pressure on braking" also might just B cuz yer 'off the gas' ie motor is in lower revs. With all the mi U might have on this engine it could B just a tired ol oil pump? Keepin revs up keeps pressure up? In this case go w/it as is or use the mechanical oil pressure gauge 2 ck further.

Get the "Handbook" yet &/or have a shop manual now?
 
Hi Chad,

When I do the valve stem seals I will also be adding a mechanical oil guage. I have a T fitting and a new sending unit as well, as I want the stock gauge to work as well. No dents in the pan.

I do plan on some suspension upgrades later this year, so I might drop the pan at that time and put a new pickup screen on. A new oil pump was put on in the 80s, but in the documentation I have from previous owners there was nothing about a new pickup tube.

Yes, I have the "handbook" and also a Chilton's. They don't necessarily reference some of the "tips and tricks" that other shade tree mechanics have used to make things easier such as the air compressor method for valve stem seals.

Appreciate the response!

Cheers,
M
 
Yes you will need to have the engine at TDC for the cylinder you are going to replace the valve stem seals on. The reason for this is if something should happen with the pistion down the hole you could drop a valve at that point you would be forced to pull the head off.

You can pull all the spark plugs out after you have removed the rocker shaft assembly to make it easier to turn the engine over. On removing the rocker shaft assembly start by loosening the two bolts in the center first and then working outward from there loosening the bolts a little at a time like one to two turns then go back to center and repeate again. I keep all the push rods in order so they go back in the same lifter and on the same rocker arm too. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":3gd9e7jj said:
Yes you will need to have the engine at TDC for the cylinder you are going to replace the valve stem seals on. The reason for this is if something should happen with the pistion down the hole you could drop a valve at that point you would be forced to pull the head off.

You can pull all the spark plugs out after you have removed the rocker shaft assembly to make it easier to turn the engine over. On removing the rocker shaft assembly start by loosening the two bolts in the center first and then working outward from there loosening the bolts a little at a time like one to two turns then go back to center and repeate again. I keep all the push rods in order so they go back in the same lifter and on the same rocker arm too. Good luck (y) :nod:

Thanks, bubba! Does it matter if it's TDC on the compression stroke vs intake stroke? I assume not, but wanted to double check.

Cheers,
M
 
:unsure: If you use the compressed air method,be real careful.If things are not well centered,the air can and will spin the engine,and if you have left a breaker bar or ratchet on the crank bolt it will go flying or if a part of your anatomy is in the way,well be prepared for some broken bones.Much safer to use the rope in the cylinder method.With the air method,any loss of air pressure will result in removal of the head to retrieve the dropped valve.Not to mention a whole bunch of discouraging words will be heard.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Matthew68":mpu7f2qv said:
bubba22349":mpu7f2qv said:
Yes you will need to have the engine at TDC for the cylinder you are going to replace the valve stem seals on. The reason for this is if something should happen with the pistion down the hole you could drop a valve at that point you would be forced to pull the head off.

You can pull all the spark plugs out after you have removed the rocker shaft assembly to make it easier to turn the engine over. On removing the rocker shaft assembly start by loosening the two bolts in the center first and then working outward from there loosening the bolts a little at a time like one to two turns then go back to center and repeate again. I keep all the push rods in order so they go back in the same lifter and on the same rocker arm too. Good luck (y) :nod:

Thanks, bubba! Does it matter if it's TDC on the compression stroke vs intake stroke? I assume not, but wanted to double check.

Cheers,
M

Yes you assumed right, that No it won't matter if it's on TDC on Compression stroke or TDC on the Exhaust stroke once the rocker assembly is removed. It only matters that the pistion is at TDC and both the intake and exhaust vales are closed. X2 Woobbutcher is absolutely right so be carful the air pressure can move the Pistons and turn the crankshaft around. So to help with that it's probably better to also put the other spark plugs back in place except for the cylinder your working on, that will add some resistance. If your car happens to have a manual trans too you could put it in gear and the parking brake set (try reverse or first for the most leverage). Good luck (y) :nod:
 
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