Stock carb to Holley 94 swap

Tattookyle76

New member
The tomco carb I bought is junk and was a mistake for my 200. Is it possible to find an adapter to put a Holley 94 on? I have a few 94’s sitting around.
 
Don't know of any adapters for this application so if you wanted to run a Holley 94 on your 200 then you will need to eigher make your own or have an adapter made. On the brighter side though I have seen a pair of these three bolt mount Strombreg / Holley carb's installed on a 170 or 200 log head on a vintage type drag car. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Howdy Kyle and All:

If you're serious, an Autolite 1100 from a '65 autolite 1100 for a compatible carb for your LoM distributor with the PetroniX. THe '65 autolite 200 is rated at 185 cfm for a nice increase over your stock carb.

The Holley 94s have a nice nostalgic ring, but no adaptors are available and they are quite tall.

Good Luck.

Adios, David
 
Yes for sure if you still have the stock Load O Matic Distribitor! Sorry, but even though a Pertonix has been instaled in an LOD Distributor that absolutely won't change how the unique advance system of the LOD operates and the need for a matching carb with a SCV (Spark Control Valve) for its proper operation. You can read all about how the LOD system is suppose to work and the parts required to do so in the very good article in our tech archives (see the below link). Good luck (y) :nod:

How The Stock Load O Matic Distribitor Works.
ci/Loadomatic.html
 
that's not where that relationship lies.
Please get a copy of "the Handbook" (Matt at VI hasa copy woitin 4 U) & while waiting for delivery peruse the above 'Tech Archive'. Click on the big blue box, scroll dwn to Load-O-M. in the 'Ignition' topic. Heck, read the whole thing. It got me up to speed so now I can ask the right Qs.
8^0
 
What would cause gas to pour out of the top area of the carb where the silver aluminum plug is? That little cap popped off and gas is just dumping everywhere. It’s a new carb.
 
So I believe what I’m talking about is the vent tube. Has a rod with a spring that moves in and out. Gas will just pour out of here.
 
Ok then sounds like it's an Autolite carb. Anyway if fuel is coming out of that vent tube then there are only a few causes for that. First would be if the float has stuck you can gently tap on the carb top with a soft hammer or screwdriver handle to see if it frees it. Then would be if some dirt or crude has goten on or between the Needle or seat so that the float isn't shuting the fuel flow off. Next would be if the float level setting isn't correct i.e. It's set way too high. Next is that the needle and seat are defective or damaged. Lastly could be caused from a bad float i.e. It's to heavy and is sinking to the bottom of the fuel bowl. In all these cases except for the first the carb's top needs to come off to check these issues out. If the carb rebuilder gave you a warntee on the carb you want to check with them first before you disassemble it as most times this will void the warrantee. If their isn't any warrantee then carefully disassemble the carb top for a good look inside. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":p1yalwb4 said:
Ok then sounds like it's an Autolite carb. Anyway if fuel is coming out of that vent tube then there are only a few causes for that. First would be if the float has stuck you can gently tap on the carb top with a soft hammer or screwdriver handle to see if it frees it. Then would be if some dirt or crude has goten on or between the Needle or seat so that the float isn't shuting the fuel flow off. Next would be if the float level setting isn't correct i.e. It's set way too high. Next is that the needle and seat are defective or damaged. Lastly could be caused from a bad float i.e. It's to heavy and is sinking to the bottom of the fuel bowl. In all these cases except for the first the carb's top needs to come off to check these issues out. If the carb rebuilder gave you a warntee on the carb you want to check with them first before you disassemble it as most times this will void the warrantee. If their isn't any warrantee then carefully disassemble the carb top for a good look inside. Good luck (y) :nod:



Thank you very much! Very helpful info I appreciate it
 
hadem on my dart and valiant slant6 40 yrs ago.

I wonder if that's a way to get a less expensive "glass bowl" on than the 1904 ?
Prices on those have gone sky hi (even puttin em on Harleys now).
 
If you are familiar with the '94's , why don't you give one a try. Fairly small cfm 2 barrel carb with a tall profile. made to sit on a flathead typically @ 239CID. Probably varied CFM from many applications . Carb adapters and linkage adjustments usually are not too complicated. As a carburetor enthusiast, I would be interested in it's performance on a 200 or 250. The flathead V8's like inlines, also emphasize low end - midrange torque and need a compatible carb .


Generally the available Holley glass bowl 1904's are not going to make a performance improvement over other available carbs. Used on all sorts of cars and trucks of very different displacements, there are pages of "'List Numbers" with International Harvester dump trucks, 4 cylinder stationary engines, Ramblers and Dodges etc... . My '61 Comet / Offy TriPower has three 1904's, I have a collection of @ a dozen. I try to rebuild each but a few do not run well no matter what parts from working ones get swapped into it or passages get cleaned. I test-run each individually on my '63 170 Falcon before trying to get to work on the triPower . Worn throttle shaft bores and warped vertical bowl surface are common. There are many variants, some with strange choke plates used for jetting. You can be sure many available intact 1904 stashes from vendors are returned CORES - with problems' carbs ...

Holley 1904's on bikes?, a 'feature' of the 1904 is that the bowl vent is basically non-baffled port on top of carb and with moderate movement they spew fuel unless heavily modified.

have fun

if Photobucks allows:

NOS 1904







 
If its an SCA Autolite 1100, then do this.


viewtopic.php?f=1&t=69701&p=563569#p563569


"Idle quality on 200 inch six"

hotroady":3smp2n6q said:
I finally got around to doing the autolite 1100 SCV mod. I just used JB Weld marine epoxy to plug indicated vac holes. I now idle below
500 rpms in gear.

I have a 65 Mustang 200. Pertronix ign., Duraspark dist. Recurved, Crane 91 LX hi current coil, MSD 6A box. .050 gap on Autolite plugs.
600 RPM was as low an idle as I could attain. The conversion wasn't truly finished until I sealed those vac leaks in the 1100. I removed the choke for better breathing. Converted back to ported vac, as I was running engine non ported to dist, before. This combo is a large step upward in driveabilty!


For other carbs like this....


BCOWANWHEELS":3smp2n6q said:
I,am going to run 2 holley model 1920,s myself


Hey, Your back! Hope you've healed up good. I was kinda scared something had happened.

:unsure: I've used the Mopar 225 Holley 1920 carbs on my 138, 161 and 201 cubic inch Vauxhalls too. Its a sensationally good carb, and it looks great too.

91WbZTyfwZL._SX450_.jpg


pic1.jpg



The only issue is distributor vacuum and how the throttles tip in to the engine.

Versatile 400 swather's or standby water pump's or wood chippers with 170 or 200 Ford's all used the repostioned 1904 Holley 1-bbl.
"Small 6 swapping and mixing parts conundrum."
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76829&p=592164#p592164


IMG_2388_zpsws26kszn.jpg



SCA Load-o-matics are bad old technology...avoid it if you can.

But most of the standard Ford carbs are best as they tip in towards the engine, not forwards or backwards.


icon_topic_latest.gif


Here's the schematics if you are going that route.

"Recurved SCV dizzy" viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77173&p=594079#p594079

scv_loadamatic_005.jpg


I6_emissions_era_three_way_Manifold_Spark_Ported_vacuum_Advance_001.jpg
 
Back
Top