Multiple Coolant Leaks Suddenly!

Ok, I'm going to get a complete engine gasket set since they are cheap and a new 180 degree thermostat. I'd like to get a temp/oil pressure/volts gauge pack to mount under the dash or in the radio hole. Now is a good time since I need to monitor engine temp closely. Can anyone recommend a cheap gauge cluster that has a vintage look?

I will check for a warped head and block.
 
rmcphearson":1phrh158 said:
I will check for a warped head and block.
yeah, just cuz its leakin...
Coulda been a poor gasket or gasket installation.
Ck em (head/block) both'n and follow proper procedure 4 the next gasket (scrapin, cleanin, ck 4 level, goop'n layin down the gasket) and head placement (not to rip or damage it, i.e., use 'locating pins') heat/H2O proof thread goop on the RF head bolt (ck on clearance on H2O pump impeller) etc, etc.
Same w/the thermostat/housing (or "H2O neck").

I had my OE radiator boiled cored, rodded, etc, painted, the mounting tabs re soldered for $60, so ck those leaks out...

Get any gage w/a needle - not just a ("it's too hot now") light.
 
Hi, I have the old Moon 3 gauge cluster on my Bronco. It is a complete kit. They are all over E BAY for $89.99. Good luck
 
Ok, let me recap. My OEM temp gauge would only go up to 1/4 scale since I bought this car last year. At some point just after I installed a new sender the temp gauge went up to 1/2 once, the engine stumbled/struggled and developed several coolant leaks. Since that single episode it's been running normally- the OEM gauge goes to 1/4, no stumble/struggling, no coolant leaks.

Today I installed a new mechanical temp gauge. It indicates a temp of 120 while driving and goes up to 163 after shutting the engine off. That makes me think the OEM temp gauge was accurate. I'm taking this one step at a time so I can figure out what's going on before I start the major work. So, two questions:

1) Why is this engine running cool?

2) Is a 43 degree rise in temp after shutting the engine off normal?

-Roland
 
Your engine running cold is likely due to the thermostat your using. Try at least a 180 to 194. Yes Engines will get hotter after the engine is shut down. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
:unsure: Reason for heat spike when engine is shut off.Coolant no longer circulating.Block soaks up the coolant heat.Thus causing the temp spike.Very normal.Also,as suggested,check your thermostat
for at least 180 degree rating.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
I installed a 170 thermostat yesterday. The temp spiked momentarily while idling to 200 and then quickly went down to 160. It now stays around 160-170 while driving and spikes to 180 after shutting off. I don't want to push my luck with a hotter stat. This engine pings under load and I guess a higher temp might make that even worse.

Thanks for the help! Now on to other issues...

-Roland
 
Those (non-critical) spikes after the engine warms up are due to a bunch of water finally making its way from the cooling jacket to the hose. Might be an air bubble that worked loose or the t-stat finally opens all the way and whoosh. That ping is either a timing issue or you need higher octane gas. A lean-burning engine runs hot. The running temp will settle down if you get your timing spot on.
 
good luck wid what U saw as a problematic leak.

Now, bud-eye Ludwig brings up a good point. The vehicle is a system. One thing one place - effects another in nother place (air bubble, ping, thermost., timing, temp, octane). So,

"... installed a 170 thermostat yesterday..."
that means (ideally) the motor will try'n stay near 170*F (cuz it open @ that temp). My thought is optimal motor temp is higher, yet our carb is in an area that's pretty hot.

If U don't mind a thread hijac here? can we discuss thermostat, engine temp'n carb icing/boil? If not, it's OK with me to drop it all. U seem to be where U need to be with the leak?
Did you get what U need?
 
Hijack away brother.

I haven't seen any leaks lately. I'm guessing that when I replaced the temp sender with a new temp sender a few months back the temp spiked, due to an air bubble or whatever, and that is what prompted the temporary leaks.

I am leery of going to a hotter stat right now for fear that the weak head gasket, radiator, and head bolt seal will blow.

I'm closer to the proper temp now than I was when I bought it last year. It was pinging when I got it. It also started idling rough lately and dying when idling. I think I now need to do a general tune up. I don't have a timing light or a vacuum gauge yet. I plan to borrow or buy them.

-Roland

"can we discuss thermostat, engine temp'n carb icing/boil?"

Yep, clue me in bro.
 
rmcphearson":2qhpib2i said:
Hijack away brother.
"can we discuss thermostat, engine temp'n carb icing/boil?"
Yep, clue me in bro.
We hada thread we never finished B4 on: "You can allow yer engine to get too cold AND too hot for best performance."
May get no further cuz this is tacked ona thread (only closely related) but I'll leave it out there as U've oked it 8)

* "The Air Pump" pullin our vehicles around do better colder (the air is denser, more power in the burn/explosin due to increased oxegen) but would it be best to get it (& the air comin in thru the intake/carb) as cold as possible? No. Carb icing is just the beginning of the "too cold" problem.

* I guess the only limit to "how hot?" would B 'same place', the carb (fuel boil & really expanded air/oxegene)). I'm not talkin bout 1K - 3K degrees when the metalurgy factors come in.

So we got a range. Most already know/understand that but what's optimal due U suppose. Performance (MPGs/pep) can hang in the balance. How much I have no idea.
:unsure::
 
I'm going to tac on a couple questions to this thread.

What spark plug should I use at my current 160-170 temp and what gap?
 
The warmer an engine can run the better it's performance and the economy it can achieve. The target for these old six'es is around 195 to 200 newer engines are designed to run even hotter in the 220 range. The stock heat range spark plugs or one step colder should work for you. The plug gap is determined by the type ignistion system you have and if it is stock. I see that you stated a few details of what year or model engine / car ect. that your working so on depending on if everything remains the factory stock parts. So if it still has a stock 1962 point type Distribitor in your 170 then the Ford factory plug gap for this year is .034 and this would be optimal. If you happened to have converted it to a DuraSpark II system then the spark gap is .044. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
x2 on bubba. The running temp should stabilize with a 180* t-stat. That is to say, this is the temp it OPENS at; not the operating temp. There have been many many threads here about getting the engine to cool consistently. Generally they come down to purging all the air and the right temperature T-stat.

Tacking on to what bubba wrote above, the warming plate between the carb and the intake manifold that is on many of the 200s not only warms the intake, it also is supposed to provide for a consistent temperature of the fuel mix coming into the log. Many, including me, simply by pass the carb plate and run the heater hoses to the firewall. While this doesn't make much difference in SoCal, where I used to live, it does make a difference in Manitoba or Fairbanks.

Unless you are quite sure that you have found/solved the problems, you might want to make sure that all the air is gone from the system. Typically, you would park on a slight upgrade with the radiator higher than the rear of the car and let the engine warm up from a cold start. Leave the radiator cap off and let the engine run. You will see no movement of coolant in the radiator, then the water will start to move. Often all at once as the coolant finally gets to the target temp. There will be rise in coolant temp just before this point, the it will fall again as cool water enters the jacket.

Let the engine idle for a while longer, until the coolant level in the radiator stops rising and falling, at about 1/2 to 3/4 inch below the lip of the filler. At this point, you cap it and leave it. Best bet, with a new cap that keeps the coolant in place.

Most of us have had similar problems and this technique is pretty much the optimum.
 
Ok. I thought briefly about pushing my luck with a hotter stat, but today I noticed coolant seeping from the head gasket on the drivers side, so I'm going to leave the 170 stat in for now until I can schedule the head gasket change.

Thanks everyone.

-Roland
 
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