Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

rmcphearson

Well-known member
I am about the rebuild my Autolite 1100 on my 170. Are there instructions? Also, how do I clean/polish the outside of it?

Thanks,
-Roland
 
Both of the rebuild kits I bought came with a blown-apart diagram. You basically just take it all apart and document how things were. replace the old with the new, and put it back together. Blow out all of the passages to make sure there are no clogs. If you have a shop manual, do the bench adjustments to the specifications in the tables (accelerator pump, float, etc...).

I used a wire wheel to clean the outside of most of the gunk (couldn't reach all of the tight spaces though...).

I had no clue what I was doing when I rebuilt mine for the first time. It's not that bad even going in blind. Good Luck!
 
ya da vids R big help 2 us beginners, try several, u'll like em.

Clean chest hi or elbow hi surface covered wid a towel or non-patterned lght colored cloth, nice light, compressed air (a can o'it or official compressor), over nite soak in some cleaner, sm tools (wire brushes, drivers, n.n. pliers).

Patients & ability 2 walk away (get a break w/o some 1 shattering ur stuff while gone - even a dog or cat).

A manual w/exploded diagram (as said above).
This forum or local buddy w/experience...

Check back in. These guys helped me rebuild my 1st carb!
I may ck in again for the RBS (as I may wanna put in new jets'n these R pressed in not screwed in). :rolflmao:
 
Howdy rmcphearson:

Good luck on this adventure. Start by giving the carb a thorough visual inspection. Check to make sure the throttle shaft is relatively snug in the carb body. The video and instructions from Mike's is an awesome addition. Tip #1- read the instructions- read again. Tip #2- a good quality aerosol carb cleaner is very helpful at getting into the tight spots and channels. Tip#3- Don't over tighten any of the screws tapped into the soft carb body. Stripped threads/cross thread are fairly common on these carbs. Take particular care when starting the fuel line into the bowl. Finally take note of the number on the main jet, for future reference.

Good luck and enjoy.

Adios, David
 
I've been putting this off until now. I put a electric fuel pump on a few months ago and have been driving it every day. A few days ago the engine flooded. With the fuel pump on there is fuel pouring out of the vent valve tube. I assume the float valve is not closing.

So far I have noticed the following missing:
1) all 3 check balls
2) the pump discharge weight (that goes on top of the pump discharge check ball)
3) scv valve gasket

Must have been a real winner f***ing with this thing.
 
Them balls is all emmision sh*t. I jus pich m. Nevarun betor. Gawdem gubment, ol up n r junk.

;)
 
:shock: yessiree that's sure enough :banghead: those gubermnt fools don't know jack s..t :nod: :rolflmao:
 
You should be running a pressure regulator with an electric fuel pump, unless it's a low pressure pump.

An 1100 only takes 4-5 psi at idle.

I'd install the check balls and weight. Not alot of EPA regulations on an 1100 carb.

Standard 1100 rebuild kits will have new balls, but not the weight.
 
Thanks for the info! I think the pump I installed is 6psi max. I'll have to double check. I put the 3 balls in and made my own weight from a small bolt shank, just guessing the approximate size from the illustration. If someone has an extra weight (or has one lying around that you can weigh accurately) please let me know. Now my problem is stripped threads in one of the holes for the accelorator pump housing...
 
Well, I got it back together and much to my surprise I did all the adjustments correctly and it runs good but I've got a little work left to do. The accelorator pump works now (it didn't work before) but if I get on it quick gas shoots out from around the acc pump gasket because the cover is warped. There is also a tiny bit of gas seeping from the bowl gasket. I ordered a repair flange for the pump cover from Mike's Carb Parts along with the check ball weight I needed. I rigged up something for the stripped pump cover screw threads but I plan to helicoil it.
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Autoli ... _1264.html
 
Well it was fine the other day but now gas is pouring out where the vent valve rod goes in. I assume the float valve is not closing. I confirmed the max pressure of this electric fuel pump is 7 psi. Any ideas?
 
1 to 2 psi higher at idle could push past the needle and seat.

The float could be saturated, out of adjustment, or binding around the pivot pin or needle retainer clip.

Float in right side up?
 
X2 check the float out if you didn't replace it along with the needle and seat. (y) :nod:
 
Hmmm, it ran for 2 months with the electric pump. And it ran for 30 minutes after the rebuild so the float valve was working after the rebuild. That makes me think the float may have a hole in it and it took a while to become saturated. Thanks for the replies.
 
rmcphearson":30r5sqxh said:
Ok when I left off the other day gas was pouring out where the vent valve rod goes it. I just took it apart and the bowl is bone dry. I don't get it, shouldn't the bowl be full?
 
rmcphearson":20tnvwta said:
Ok when I left off the other day gas was pouring out where the vent valve rod goes it. I just took it apart and the bowl is bone dry. I don't get it, shouldn't the bowl be full?


Yes it should have fuel in it! How much of a time period was it until you took it apart?
 
I dunked the float in hot water. No bubbles. I think the float is good.

I checked the fuel pressure with a 100 psi gauge, it reads 6 psi. Don't know if it's accurate because of the scale.

I haven't been able to rig up something to bench pressure check the seat yet.
 
rmcphearson":1o8wkkc7 said:
A few days. Maybe it just evaporated?

Yep that's for sure evaporating or possibly by leakage too. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
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