Ball bearing idler arm on a manual steering vehicle.

[wsa111]

I had a conversation with members of another forum concerning a ball bearing idler arm.
They stated the friction of the rubber bushings with almost "0" caster was more than a vehicle with 3-4 degrees +caster with a full roller idler arm.
Has anyone gone this route. The full roller arm can be purchased from opentrackerracing.
I also looked at the Moog K8158, but that is not a full rollerized arm. The one end is like a ball joint & has more friction than the rubber bushing design. Comments??

[bubba22349]

HI Bill, I have used the ball bearing idler arms on many of the bigger Ford cars (non power steering type) like a 1958 Ranchero. I can vouch that the steering effort is reduced using one over that of the rubber bushing type. I would always use them on my own personal rides. They were also adjustable so you could add some tightness if you wanted, I say try it you will like it.

[wsa111]

I will go with 3-4 Degrees + caster & -.5 camber, 1/16" toe in.

[bubba22349]

Bill are you setting it up for the track?

[wsa111]

No Bubba only street driving. I'm just trying the make the steering effort less in parking lots, but still return the steering to center after turns. What do you think on my specs??

[bubba22349]

I think it's going to be to much Caster for street use. I would do from 0, 1, up to 2 degrees max, small six cars don't have much front end weight so it's not really needed. Though Lots of Caster does does tend to return the steering back to center at speed, but it also makes the steering effort harder at slow speeds. I would be curious to know how your alignment settings are right now and how it drives. Other things that can effect steering return are to much of a difference in Caster from side to side, and another is incorrect toe in settings. Good luck

[wsa111]

Bubba, i agree on the 2 degrees + caster. -1/2 camber & 1/16" toe.
Got the rollerized arm today, just need to grease the ball bearings & install grease fittings on both bracket end & drag link end.
I will see how it handles with my 0 caster. Then go with the 2 degrees + caster.

[bubba22349]

Bill, will be interested to hear how you like the roller idler and how it handles.

One of my faveriote Mustangs I bought years ago was a 66 Fastback was a good looking car but it sure didn't handle at all. Turns out it had been in a front end wreck and all they did was replace all the obvious bent parts. As I was working on it, found out that the both spring towers were leaning in, but even more so was on the driver side tower which was also were it was probally hit. After straightening the towers so they were standing up right to the factory spec again. I stich welded the factory inner bracing plates to the towers and then made and welded in some extra plates at the base of tover to frame rail (like the 69 & 70 Boss Mustangs had). After I got the wheel alignement all set that Mustang Handled the best of any of my other Mustangs, tracking straight down the freeway for miles without touching the steering wheel. Since then I always make sure the towers are were they are suppose to be too. Good luck

[Depulse]

Bubba,

I have a question about '66 Mustang front shock towers. Is there a way to check if they are straight/upright? I am struggling with the alignment on my '65 Ranchero. The Ranchero is very honest/straight, but I did notice the backside of the driver's side front fender was a different color than the rest of the vehicle. The previous owner was clueless, so no help at all.

Bill, I am not trying to take over your post but Bubba touched on one of my concerns.

Doug P

[bubba22349]

Hi Doug, yes could go into a discussion about tower alinement though it would be better if you can start a new thread on that subject.