New dual exhaust headers: choke heat riser tube?

OakR8ders12

New member
Had dual exhaust headers installed. Now my choke heat riser tube has no where to attach to the engine. Any nice looking, easy and inexpensive suggestions? thanks
 
Depending on your carburetor, replace the thermostat with an electric choke. Kits are available to clamp a new tube from the choke to the header pipe.
 
OakR8ders12":r1345n3f said:
Had dual exhaust headers installed. Now my choke heat riser tube has no where to attach to the engine. Any nice looking, easy and inexpensive suggestions? thanks
don't need much, just lay it down on a tube or (dependin on length) wrap it around for more contact/heat.
Ck that the bimetal 'coil spring' is hooked to the butterfly's tab inside the blk bakelite 'pill box' at that end of the carb. U can do that easiest by diddelin the butterfly - if it goes easy and flops back (closed) it's probably hooked.
 
Question on that hot air choke tube, should the lower end be left open> Or should I pinch it closed ?
Vacuum leak if open versus doesn't flow hot air when closed ?
DannyG
 
:shock: yes if you want the choke to work as it was designed too, then the choke stove needs to be open so as to draw warm air into the choke housing! Plus that very small vaccum leak is needed to be able to do this. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
What carburetor are you running???? Certain carbs can be converted to an electric replacement.
 
Electric chokes are great but they do have a drawback, they choke a little bit when it isn't needed in the summer and after parking it for a little bit. But the easy work around is to adjust it to lean in the summer. They aren't connected in an analog way like the climatic chokes. They kind of are b/c they still feel the heat and work in the same way but there is a difference. They don't get the heat as directly so they will close a bit when it isn't needed when the power is gone.
 
DannyG":2fkvxpii said:
Question on that hot air choke tube, should the lower end be left open> Or should I pinch it closed ?
Vacuum leak if open versus doesn't flow hot air when closed ?
DannyG
if U have the carb I think U o it's not even close to the throat, venturi, etc so no "vacuum leak" at all.
The only draw back is it allows ambient air (may have 'road dust') into the combustion chamber - that gets incinerated, & a lill in the carb itself.
Worried?
Follow up w/Seth's plan - wire up an ele choke (offa the stator lug of the alternator).
 
"What carburetor are you running???? Certain carbs can be converted to an electric replacement."
Going with the Autolite 1101 and the stainless steel headers. I plan on wrapping the headers too, and wondered if I needed to let the end of the choke tube hang out in the atmosphere ?
 
chad":28zg88pt said:
DannyG":28zg88pt said:
Question on that hot air choke tube, should the lower end be left open> Or should I pinch it closed ?
Vacuum leak if open versus doesn't flow hot air when closed ?
DannyG
if U have the carb I think U o it's not even close to the throat, venturi, etc so no "vacuum leak" at all.
The only draw back is it allows ambient air (may have 'road dust') into the combustion chamber - that gets incinerated, & a lill in the carb itself.
Worried?
Follow up w/Seth's plan - wire up an ele choke (offa the stator lug of the alternator).
Chad if you have an oem choke designed for 9 volts via stator hookup. I had a 1980 F150 & that choke thermostat used stator voltage.
However if you are running a Holley carb or Holley choke thermostat you need full battery voltage to make it open properly.
If the choke housing is not warped a Holley electric choke cover will fit. Need 12V.
All chokes, electric or exhaust heat need airflow to keep from burning up. Holley chokes have a screw on fitting with a small mesh wire screen to block dirt. OEM style take fresh filtered air from the air cleaner base.
 
"... if you are running a Holley carb or Holley choke thermostat you need full battery voltage to make it open properly...."
Thanks, Bill !
 
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