250 Swap worth it?

So checking the various resale website i came across a listing for someone here in town selling a complete 250 out of a 77 maverick that ran before they pulled it about a month ago. They are asking all of $200 which i think isnt too bad, but to those of you who have done it, how much of a bear is it to swap the 250 into the early round body cars? Ive looked at the handbook for as much info as possible so i know the jist of what likely would be needed but for those who have actually done it was there anything else you ran into or i should consider? Is the swap really even worth it for what im getting? I did have a vision to do a full bore N/A 250 build a few years ago but calculations predicted that it wouldnt make much more than about 200hp at the wheel. Which for the amount of money spent seemed a little disappointing. I could always follow does10s footsteps and run boost and really make the power id like but also more financial investment. Maybe its worth buying just for the head? let me know

same as every automotive Q: "What's the application?"
my bronk: 2.8 : 4.1
that's a pretty major change (not too good w/math but it seems round 30%).
Do U have time, space, tools, funds, expertise or will U want to "farm it out"?

Make a list of benefits you'll achieve and just wha it'll take 4 U to get there (that's the logics to a decision).
Then
sit back and ask ur self just what kinda pleasure you'll get frm the 'new vehicle' (an emotional quotient)?
Now that's conducting a full assessment.


Good Luck wid all da decisions in yer life !!!

I have all the tools and the ability to physically do the swap, major engine machine would have to be farmed out as im not a machine shop. (though i wish i was) and at the end of the day id like to have a car that im not afraid of hoping in and drive where ever. even so much as to take it cross country. Id love to some year put in in the hot rod power tour so end goal would likely be a 5 speed with 3.50 rear gear and the 250 would give me decent power im sure but its a case of does the end justify the means

only you can ultimately decide what is best for you. personally i would love to put a 250 into my 64 falcon. 80 extra cubic inches would be quite nice to have in that car. the extra low end torque is always welcome. the falcon six handbook has the necessary swap information.

as someone that had both a 1975 & a 77 Maverick with 250’s and C4’s I think it’s well worth the effort! The 77 I had from 1977 to 2014 I would still have it if things had worked out right. The torque they have is amassing, and could out pull many stock small block V8’s (autos) from a stop. With a 250 in your car it would be even better since it’s a lot lighter than the Maverick at 3000 some pounds. Good luck

It is priced well if it is really in good running condition. The 250 is getting pretty hard to get.

well idk how well running it was before, the ad just said running and driving before pulled. the 250 is slightly heavier than the standard small sixes due to the taller deck height. but is still almost 100lbs light than any SBF so it should hopefully only increase total vehicle weight by 100-200 lbs between the engine and trans swap with new driveshaft and everything

Back in 1977, I purchased a 250 with a 3.03 3spd to install in the 65 Mustang I had at the time.
It was in a 63 Falcon roundbody. Still used a generator, and the 250 fit nicely in it.

The 63 Falcon could be had with a V8, so the transmission tunnel was designed for the larger 3.03 transmission.
The 62 had the V8 option later in the model year, so the 3.03 transmission should fit.
The 60 and 61 models only came with a 6cyl so the transmission tunnel is smaller.

250 install in '61 (Comet) fits ... but with a few issues :
( most were addressed in the Schjeldahl bros' book )

1) The Radiator clearance is very tight. (Look into Pusher Fans)




2) For stick tranny, clutch Z-BAr is too long and it needs to be shortened in the middle.or 63-65 V8 bar .





3) Engine sits slightly higher than needed except oil pan needs clearance to center link.

4) 250/V8 Bell and rear of cyl. head hit Firewall of the '61. ( Removed engine - and "formed" firewall with BFH)




5) Two related problems - The Starter interferes with the Center Steering Link and the Link will probably hit pan if engine is lowered (Kudos to Schjeldahl Bros' 'flipped' center link and re-reaming reverse taper in Idler and Pittman.)





6) Electrical Sensors, gauges, Charging system and Ignition Wiring are different.








Was 250 swap worth it? , ... every time I turn the key ! ...



250 INTO THE 61 COMET “ROUNDBODY”:
SFI 157 neutral balance-lightened racing flywheel spinning Centerforce Stage II Clutch, T5-Z Cobra 5speed, Short throw Hurst shifter, 8” 3.80:1 TracLoc Posi rear, Shelby sway bars, Traction devices. Mustang front strut bars, Scarebird Disc front brakes, Body subframe connectors, 5 Point Roll bar,, Mustang 5.0 alum. racing radiator, GM HEI Ignition, Perma-Cool elec. fan, Holley fuel pressure regulator, Hooker dual out longtube headers, Smithy silencers, Original tube radio. vacuum wipers and fender mounted GUNSIGHTS ! … .





Powerband 8)

Nice Comet Powerband!

After further thought I would definitely go 200 on a running 250. But would offer less first. Better deal if it has accessories, air cleaner, flex plate/flywheel etc. They are getting harder to find and getting that way faster.

Always love seeing your comet powerband, quite the site. Since youve had it to the track i have to ask what what the calcualted HP of your 250? im honestly hoping for around 200 whp and i think i would be very happy with that but its hard to find a good listing of what a combo like this might make. The listing on the dyno sheet from classic if for a c4 which has more of a parasitic loss than a manual.