Need a Carb

Georgia200

Well-known member
67 200/C4

My 1100 SCV doesnt match my non LOM dizzy.

I was working on figuring out the high idle problem Im having and tripped and broke the hot air choke off.

I think I will just buy a new carb since I was going to anyway.

I have a C6 block that needs to be freshened up and a C9 head with 1.75 carb opening. My current 1100 is a 1.5.

I plan on keeping this head and installing 144 intake valves for the exhaust, keep my 1.649 intake valves and mill and deck for a 8.8-9.0 compression ratio. Mild cam with a smooth idle, DSII, adjustable rockers. I will add ac in the near future.

What 1V carb would be best? I prefer to keep my stock linkage, I want to keep an oem look under the hood as much as possible.
 
Hey Georgia,

Would you be interested in parting with the top of that 1100 you broke the choke off of?

I'm running an 1100, and my top is a little more over-torque warped to the bowl than I would like, I've got double gaskets in there right now. Running a manual choke, I'm only looking for a better top.

Steve
 

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Howdy Georgia:

The carb you need is an Autolite 1101 used in 1969 on Mustangs with a 250 engine. IT will be an all around direct bolt-on in your case. It is rated at 210 cfm for a noticeable boost in power. It utilizes the same hot air choke system that your original '67 1100 carb used. It will be compatible with your '68 distributor as well as your planned DS II ignition. IT has a 1.75" throttle bore. FYI- these 1101 carbs are getting fairly scarce. Good hunting.

When doing your head be sure to specify a 30 degree back cut on the intake valves.

Good luck and keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
Ive got a copy of the handbook and have been collecting parts for the head as Ive run across them over the years.

Not sure my 1100 is in good shape, it looks like it was pieced together from more than 1 carb. Im not even sure its an Autolite, no numbers on it anywhere. The top looks newer than the bottom.
 
from Mike's Carbs:
"When no tag is present, Identification can be done by inspecting the base. You can sometimes find a Ford part number there."

I have looked at all ID: #s, Ltrs on a very few carbs. The 2 or 3 carters -YF, RBS (haven't looked at the A.1100, 01's IDs) I've rebuilt have a stamped (not cast) series of ltrs and #s on the side of the mounting base/flange that helps in ordering internal/external prts.
Can't remember the webber (32/36).
 
Not completely sure if the tube from the bowl to the throat was exposed or encased early years or later. I have one exposed tube, and one encased.

I am interested in that top, if you'd like to get rid of it once you figure out what carb you're going to.

I've got my assembled 1100 and a parts carb, no casting or stamped numbers anywhere on body or top. Never had the tags for them.

This pic from eBay shows a stamped number at the base.
 

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C30FA - that's the ticket !
Use that for ID, prts, determining what vehicle it wuz on originally, etc...
:mrgreen:
 
I bought a reman United Carb from Advance for a 1969 Mustang 250. The carb that was shipped to me has a SCV. I went on their website and that carb is listed for 1965-1969. We know thats not true.

So Im still looking. The $99 ebay China carbs are looking better and better,
 
Thats screwy. I didnt think the 250 ever ran the LOM and SCV. If yoy want to try another type of carb, the Carter RBS or Carter YF i believe are pretty good carbs for the 250.

If you're capable, I'd get a cheap YF on ebay and rebuild it yourself. Its not difficult and usually yoy can get a better quality carb rather a crap chinese one.

Good luck,
Ryan
 
frozenrabbit":1fmt8f74 said:
Hey Georgia,

Would you be interested in parting with the top of that 1100 you broke the choke off of?

I'm running an 1100, and my top is a little more over-torque warped to the bowl than I would like, I've got double gaskets in there right now. Running a manual choke, I'm only looking for a better top.

Steve

That's a good point, the tops of 1100 carbs are weak, don't over tighten them. If you are rebuilding one, put some 120-180 grit sand paper on your table saw or whatever and carefully grind it flat, both top and bottom. Never hurts to check any flange.
 
If you want a good boost in power, I'd recommend upgrading to a weber 32/36 or Holley 5200. I got a video and the correct jet sizes yoy need to make the swap. Its not difficult and will work with your dizzy.

What you'd need:
Weber or holley
Adapter from clifford or VI
Air cleaner. A V8 air cleaner will fit or you can go to a chrome one but you'd need another adapter from the holley/weber to the round style air cleaner.
Correct Jets
And a little pedal linkage messing. A cable upgrade is the best way to go.

https://youtu.be/yvOCZ3rql7Y

It can be done for about $250 but you'll get better gas mileage and more power. I recommend it highly

Good luck,
Ryan
 
Georgia200":qg4thg5d said:
67 200/C4What 1V carb would be best? I prefer to keep my stock linkage, I want to keep an oem look under the hood as much as possible.
Don't 4 get, it's the pre '68 LOM/SCV changes ( C above "tech archive ' @ crossed screwdriver/wrench).
I like the ubiquitous 1100 and YF.

For a lill more - the RBS (still 1v but 215 cfm 1970/4) or follow Ryan wid da 32/36 (2v). Now we're gettin inta lill more so the 2100 or some holley 2v give the performance w/o the complications of a weber, still tunable. All look oem or period correct 2 me (I'm closer to 70 than 60 y/o so saw these as a 'kid'). All post '68 LOM/SCV. OK w/'68 + dizzy'n DSII.

Best bet? Tell us what/how U drive (ie 80% of drivin condition/RPMs).

Have fun, keep talkin...
 
Without having one in my hand, how difficult is a 1940 or RBS swap? Those seem much easier to come by.

If I convert to a cable throttle, how does the kickdown work?
 
Sounds like U have The Handbook? Look at the direct mount option for carb in there. Ur "M" head is one of the better 4 that'n it seems U will have it off/at machinist anyway.

Have U perused the above 'tech archive' as well?
Lots of answers in both & due to the auto being a system - other concerns that should B kept in mind.

RBS - good; Holley 1940 - isn't that what David calls "a replacement" carb? Not so much flow...

"If I convert to a cable throttle, how does the kickdown work?"
I keep gettin corrected when I call it a TV cable but the same as it duz now (w/ur C4). It would just need adjustment tho.
 
On a earlier linkage setup the C4 kickdown is off the same shaft as the throttle linkage.

When converting to cable, the shaft is removed so there is nothing for the kick down linkage to attach to.

Im guessing the kick down linkage also converts to a cable system, but I dont know for sure.

Is there a parts fiche website that has diagrams?
 
Howdy Back Georgia and All:

Q- "how difficult is a 1940 or RBS swap?"
A- The Holley 1940 is a Service Replacement carb that was sold through FoMoCo to replace the no longer in business Autolite 1100s. The 1940 was a generic carb made to adapt to any and all versions of the 1100s. So, If you get the exact 1940 for your year, engine and transmission it will be a bolt-on. However, just specifying a 1940 rebuilt will not guarantee that you get the right version of that carb. Plus, 1940 carbs are notorious for running rough, hard to tune, being down on power and leaky. Also, a 1940 for a '67 200 will have a SCV. The 1940s for this year are rated at 185 cfm. 1940s designed for 70 and later 200s do not have SCV.

The Carter RBS, as recommended, will require some adaptation. It is a very simple carb. FYI the RBS carbs were the stock 250 carbs for 1970 and later. So if you can find one that was originally for a car with a 250 and auto trans, the kick down linkage adaptation will be taken care of. Earliest RBS carbs were mechanical linkage. Later ones were cable linkage. Some adaptation would be needed for the fuel line, vacuum line and air cleaner. The RBS is the same as the 1101 as far as cfm, at 215. Some later RBS carbs used electric chokes.

The other Carter mention is a YF model. It became the stock 250 carb beginning in the mid 70s. It can be adapted similar to the RBS. The YF is a taller carb than the RBS so check for hood clearance. Of note is the fact that YFs were used on cars with the big block 240 engines as well as 300 engines in a pick-up. The 250 car engines and the 300 truck engines are rated at 220 cfm.

All of the above listed Carter carbs do not have SCVs.

I hope that helps. Good luck with your hunting.

Adios, David
 
Regarding YFs on 240/300s, I have always heard they do not idle well on a 200.

I called United Carbs and spoke with Greg. United is one of the rebuilders that the auto parts box stores get their carbs from.

Greg says that no one wants to list all the part numbers for the various carbs and they just lump everything together. He is an inline six fan and knew exactly what I was talking about concerning the SCV and non-SCV carbs. He is locating the correct carb and will call me when he gets it.

Also of note, he says that they buy the 1V China carbs, disassemble them and rebuild them with US parts,not enough rebuildable cores left anymore.

So Im still waiting.
 
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