Offy tri-power stalls when in gear

Hi, the Heathkit meters are very good. Verify it on another car if you can.
The lowest plug in the picture can be rich or probably oil fouled.
Good luck
 
B RON CO":3db47oc0 said:
Hi, the Heathkit meters are very good. Verify it on another car if you can.
The lowest plug in the picture can be rich or probably oil fouled.
Good luck
I always liked that meter. It worked great for my 83 CJ7 until I changed to a new fuel injected engine. I'm not writing it off yet.
 
Just to add another thing to the mix. You mentioned smelling gas. I don’t know what carbs you have but I run Webber carbs that won’t tolerate psi much over 3psi without flooding.
 
X2 those Heathkit's where a very good quality in their day, I wonder if it might have a battery inside. Do you happen to have the instruction Manual for the meter? Unless you were using a tach / dewell meter as in a professional setting (full time mechanic or tune up shop) it's unlikely it could ever go bad, other then dropping it or other destructive forces. In any case checking it against another meter will tell the tale. Good luck (y) :nod: edited
 
Plugs look real good except for that first one (if that is the #1 then) might be a sign to check out the front carb's condition like its float level ect. Did you happen to do a compression test on your engine yet? Also if you could do a video of the engine running this could be helpful in the diagnosis of its condistion as well as the actual RPM it's running at. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":1x6hv4u6 said:
X2 those Heathkit's where a very good quality in their day, I wonder if it might have a battery inside. Do you happen to have the instruction Manual for the meter? Unless you were using a tach / dewell meter as in a professional setting (full time mechanic or tune up shop) it's unlikely it could ever go bad, other then dropping it or other destructive forces. In any case checking it against another meter will tell the tale. Good luck (y) :nod: edited

I did find the manual and basically what it says is " make sure you don't mix up the high and low scales dumbass"

Which is exactly what I did. Actual RPM was more like 680 - which i would believe based on what I was hearing.

I still feel like I should be able to bring it to a stall by backing off the idle screws, but on a high note, it still didn't stall in gear.

At any rate, video coming up tomorrow or as soon as I can get some more free time. Seems to be at a premium right now.

Help and support has been fantastic. Thank you all!
 
gettin close now. That's bout right 4 an auto (if is wrkin on that 1 carb).
 
Thegrayghost, that is excellent news 680 RPM is at least close to the ball park and you can work from there. Still work at doing the first steps of plug gap, the correct dwell, and base timing before working on the carb settings. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":uycunl97 said:
Thegrayghost, that is excellent news 680 RPM is at least close to the ball park and you can work from there. Still work at doing the first steps of plug gap, the correct dwell, and base timing before working on the carb settings. Good luck (y) :nod:

These were taken a couple days ago before I realized the carb linkage was hanging up. Probably more like 1000 rpm.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hx9uMHOw_rZOxy1RgXxSBBfYlcmWnuOS/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iCUtnjzOgkvAkf5eLI5n5yzXULIDEUOU/view?usp=sharing

Hopefully these links work.
 
thegreyghost":3ougve9v said:
bubba22349":3ougve9v said:
Thegrayghost, that is excellent news 680 RPM is at least close to the ball park and you can work from there. Still work at doing the first steps of plug gap, the correct dwell, and base timing before working on the carb settings. Good luck (y) :nod:

These were taken a couple days ago before I realized the carb linkage was hanging up. Probably more like 1000 rpm.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hx9uMHOw_rZOxy1RgXxSBBfYlcmWnuOS/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iCUtnjzOgkvAkf5eLI5n5yzXULIDEUOU/view?usp=sharing

Hopefully these links work.

The links are working. Yeah it sounds like 1000+ to me. It sounds pretty smooth, sounds like the ignition system is working pretty well, no big misses. Not a horrible place to start. I'd like to see a video of it idling around 650, or as low as it idles nice, and you putting it into gear w/ your foot on the brake and holding it still. After you get the timing and the dwell set.

If you have the throttle plates all the way closed on the outer carbs at idle, w/their mixture screws turned all the way in and with a smooth idle, can you then kill the engine by turning the mixture screw in on the center carb? Doing that's making sure there aren't any vacuum leaks and the idle circuit is working right on that carb. If you can pass that you should be able to tune it up real nice.
 
:beer: sounds great and is quite smooth! X2 now if you can get it idling down smooth at 600 RPM. :nod: (y)
 
Econoline":58qa8gk0 said:
thegreyghost":58qa8gk0 said:
bubba22349":58qa8gk0 said:
Thegrayghost, that is excellent news 680 RPM is at least close to the ball park and you can work from there. Still work at doing the first steps of plug gap, the correct dwell, and base timing before working on the carb settings. Good luck (y) :nod:

These were taken a couple days ago before I realized the carb linkage was hanging up. Probably more like 1000 rpm.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hx9uMHOw_rZOxy1RgXxSBBfYlcmWnuOS/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iCUtnjzOgkvAkf5eLI5n5yzXULIDEUOU/view?usp=sharing

Hopefully these links work.

The links are working. Yeah it sounds like 1000+ to me. It sounds pretty smooth, sounds like the ignition system is working pretty well, no big misses. Not a horrible place to start. I'd like to see a video of it idling around 650, or as low as it idles nice, and you putting it into gear w/ your foot on the brake and holding it still. After you get the timing and the dwell set.

If you have the throttle plates all the way closed on the outer carbs at idle, w/their mixture screws turned all the way in and with a smooth idle, can you then kill the engine by turning the mixture screw in on the center carb? Doing that's making sure there aren't any vacuum leaks and the idle circuit is working right on that carb. If you can pass that you should be able to tune it up real nice.


Had a little time to play around today.

Got a video of it showing the tach at 600 and the dwell setting - about 27.
Got another video of it at 800 and then the dwell - about 34.

Not sure why there's that big of a difference, but I haven't measure the points yet.
I have both outer carbs disconnected and confirmed that I can get it to stall by turning the mixture screws in. Right now all three are 1.5 turns out.

Took if for a short drive - surges with the throttle. Doesn't have much get up and go yet.

videos are rpm first, followed by dwell.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eQ9IA1y6WARP9kZXpNcSU4E6TbnaUZLX/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JKrDGdhWNs6dETBhHzThKOu9d1iKNKoX/view?usp=sharing
 
thegreyghost":162tv416 said:
Econoline":162tv416 said:
thegreyghost":162tv416 said:
These were taken a couple days ago before I realized the carb linkage was hanging up. Probably more like 1000 rpm.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hx9uMHOw_rZOxy1RgXxSBBfYlcmWnuOS/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iCUtnjzOgkvAkf5eLI5n5yzXULIDEUOU/view?usp=sharing

Hopefully these links work.

The links are working. Yeah it sounds like 1000+ to me. It sounds pretty smooth, sounds like the ignition system is working pretty well, no big misses. Not a horrible place to start. I'd like to see a video of it idling around 650, or as low as it idles nice, and you putting it into gear w/ your foot on the brake and holding it still. After you get the timing and the dwell set.

If you have the throttle plates all the way closed on the outer carbs at idle, w/their mixture screws turned all the way in and with a smooth idle, can you then kill the engine by turning the mixture screw in on the center carb? Doing that's making sure there aren't any vacuum leaks and the idle circuit is working right on that carb. If you can pass that you should be able to tune it up real nice.


Had a little time to play around today.

Got a video of it showing the tach at 600 and the dwell setting - about 27.
Got another video of it at 800 and then the dwell - about 34.

Not sure why there's that big of a difference, but I haven't measure the points yet.
I have both outer carbs disconnected and confirmed that I can get it to stall by turning the mixture screws in. Right now all three are 1.5 turns out.

Took if for a short drive - surges with the throttle. Doesn't have much get up and go yet.

videos are rpm first, followed by dwell.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eQ9IA1y6WARP9kZXpNcSU4E6TbnaUZLX/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JKrDGdhWNs6dETBhHzThKOu9d1iKNKoX/view?usp=sharing

Videos aren't working. The dwell can change with higher RPM but usally it drops at higher RPMs. :unsure: check to see if you have any slop or movement of the distribors center shaft. Check the points plate for movement too. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
both vids showed "Invalid Parameters"
Oh, OK not just me.

Now:
"dwn load an app, media player, convert, etc"
Thanks, I'll skip 4 now...
 
When you say you have disconnected the outer carbs, do you mean you just disconnected the fuel lines or did you block them off? To run on just the center you need to put a plate between the carb and the adapter. This will isolate them.
 
Gene 64 2dr":1apqlt2n said:
When you say you have disconnected the outer carbs, do you mean you just disconnected the fuel lines or did you block them off? To run on just the center you need to put a plate between the carb and the adapter. This will isolate them.

Actually, I only disconnected the linkage, throttle plates are closed and mixture screws are 1.5 turns out.

Should I still remove the outer two carbs, or was that just to help get the idle correct ?
 
Yes, to eliminate the outer two carbs what you need to do is to cut two plates to place under the two outer carbs. Only then will they be total out of the picture and you will be running on the center.
 
if U want just unscrew enuff to slide under a rubber or solid plate.
Use the carbs'n their nuts to hold in place (tight to block air infiltration).
I think this would allow U to keep frm tearing down the whole assembly.
 
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