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Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

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StarDiero75
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Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #1 by StarDiero75 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 12:36 am

Howdy guys,

I just got 2 sets of disk spindles for a 67 mustang. Plus 1 set of new rotors with hubs, original calipers, and all the bearings for both sets of spindles (used). I'll be replacing the bearings and calipers but both the rotors and spindles will definitely be used. All for $150.

I recently posted about getting a drum/drum disk/drum MC, this answered what im doing lol.
So i will need a dual disk/drum MC, prop valve, two 5 lug wheels (rear are already 5 lug), a tie rod sleeve to accept the smaller L6 tie rod (they're new so i dont want to toss them) and an alignment it looks like.

Is there anything im forgetting? Im gonna reuse my stock brake pushrod. Are the rubber lines the same? Mine are 2 years old so they should be fine quality wise.

If you've done this before, share your wisdom.

Thanks,
Ryan
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #2 by StarDiero75 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 3:33 am

UPDATE

So after looking at the casting numbers on the spindles, i realize the guy was wrong. He did not know what he sold me, i was just lucky it worked in my favor.

1 set of disk 68 spindles
1 set of disk 71 spindles

My dilemma is here, the 71s are much thicker and are probably overkill for my 200. In the future, i want to buy another Falcon, preferably a 2dr wagon. I have a 289 which will definitely go in that with a C4. So the 71s would be ideal for that.
BUT ON THE OTHER HAND, I'd be passing up bigger, better spindles for a car I don't have yet, even though the 68s will probably be fine.

What are you all's thoughts on this? Im trying to be smart and plan for the future, but the future is probably years down the road and I'm wondering if it's worth planning for. These spindles are expensive, so its nice i got them at such a steal

Thanks,
Ryan
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #3 by B RON CO » Sat Dec 29, 2018 9:19 am

Hi, if you compare the 3 sets of spindles and all the important dimensions are the same, like ball joint height and angle, tie rod location, trac width, and ? , then it won't matter which of the new disc spindles you use. If one set is more closely matched to the original spindles, it is probably easier to use them. Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #4 by bubba22349 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 1:11 pm

:hmmm: The very best fitting and improved design of five lug Spindles that will easily fit on the early model Falcons & Comets were those used on the 1965 V8 Falcon and Comets, those spindles are stronger and all the steering parts were improved to provide much better steering geometry. This design is also the bases of parts that got used on the 1965 and 66 Mustangs.

For all the other years Spindles from 1967 and newer they are going to cause some problems when used on the early Falcon / Comet cars 1960 to 1966 due to different steering geometry, this is because of their being designed for use with a wider engine compartments of the newer models. If you don't have the knowhow and equipment to do the mods to the steering arms to get the correct the geometry or can't find someone that dose knowhow, then you should probably look for the right year Spindles. Some other 5 Lug swaps that can be used on an early Falcon / Comet besides the 1965 are the 1964 and the 1963 V8 Spindels. The aftermarket has also made some copies of the Gramada spindles that do have the right geometry to fit them too.

In your case to make the swap as easy as possable since you want to use everything else that you already have ie the steering arm, idler arm, tie rods, ect along with getting a pair of the tie rod adapter sleeves. The right Spindels to find and use are going to be from a 1965 V8 Falcon or Comet, second choice are the 1965 to 66 Mustang / the aftermarket designed Granda copies. Actually even your current 1965 six spindels are also quite decent in strength too from Fords contuined improvements so you could do a disk kit upgrade (Scarebird and others) with the five lug disks. You may find that that set of new disks and bearings will go right on the 1965 spindle. Good luck on your 65 Falcon Ranchero build :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #5 by StarDiero75 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 3:37 pm

bubba22349 wrote::hmmm: The very best fitting and improved design of five lug Spindles that will easily fit on the early model Falcons & Comets were those used on the 1965 V8 Falcon and Comets, those spindles are stronger and all the steering parts were improved to provide much better steering geometry. This design is also the bases of parts that got used on the 1965 and 66 Mustangs.

For all the other years Spindles from 1967 and newer they are going to cause some problems when used on the early Falcon / Comet cars 1960 to 1966 due to different steering geometry, this is because of their being designed for use with a wider engine compartments of the newer models. If you don't have the knowhow and equipment to do the mods to the steering arms to get the correct the geometry or can't find someone that dose knowhow, then you should probably look for the right year Spindles. Some other 5 Lug swaps that can be used on an early Falcon / Comet besides the 1965 are the 1964 and the 1963 V8 Spindels. The aftermarket has also made some copies of the Gramada spindles that do have the right geometry to fit them too.

In your case to make the swap as easy as possable since you want to use everything else that you already have ie the steering arm, idler arm, tie rods, ect along with getting a pair of the tie rod adapter sleeves. The right Spindels to find and use are going to be from a 1965 V8 Falcon or Comet, second choice are the 1965 to 66 Mustang / the aftermarket designed Granda copies. Actually even your current 1965 six spindels are also quite decent in strength too from Fords contuined improvements so you could do a disk kit upgrade (Scarebird and others) with the five lug disks. You may find that that set of new disks and bearings will go right on the 1965 spindle. Good luck on your 65 Falcon Ranchero build :nod:

I've always heard any year usually works and the tie rods just need to be adjusted. So what would need to be done? If the arms are longer, could i use a mustang center link since its shorter to compensate?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #6 by StarDiero75 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 4:11 pm

The only issues I can find that I'll have is that i may have bumpsteer a little bit, but the original geometry was prone to that in the first place.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #7 by StarDiero75 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 4:13 pm

I found this, very informational. From vintage mustang

From the comparison below you see that 68 spindles have the same steering geometry as Granada, as in fact do all Mustang spindles 67-73. I wrote this comparison to clarify steering geometry and bumpsteer issues when doing disc brake swaps using Granada or 68-73 disc brake spindles. The comparison also contains some other information about other disc swap issues. DAG CSRP Comparison of Ford Spindle Configurations 1960's through 1970's, CSRP 2005 There are a lot of opinions, right and wrong concerning the Granada swap. I have made it my business over the last 15 months to get to know the Granada system. I have found that there has been very little change in spindle configuration for the Falcon chassis application despite a large difference in car type and weight. Spindle Types (or more properly called steering knuckles). The Granada car is built on the Falcon Chassis that was the basis for Falcon, 65-73 Mustang, Maverick, 75-80 Granada and others. The basic suspensions in all of those cars are the same, with minor differences in outer tie rods. 65-73 Mustang and related falcon based models had 8 varieties of spindles. 1. A light weight 65-66 drum brake spindle used with 6 cylinder cars. 2. A 65-66 drum spindle which was adapted for disk brake use using a bracket. This is the 8 cylinder spindle and is relatively lightweight and was originally designed for 10" drum brake application. This spindle has slightly different steering arm/tie rod geometry than all future Falcon based spindles. 3. A 67-69 drum brake spindle which was adapted in 67 for disc brakes using a bracket. This and all future types are used for all engine applications. This spindle and ALL future Falcon series spindles have the same steering arm/tie rod geometry. These spindles are slightly beefier (except for the spindle pin itself) than 65-66. 4. A 68-69 purpose built disc brake spindle which used a sliding type single piston caliper. Essentially the same weight as the 67-69 drum spindles. This spindle uses an 11.25" rotor. 5. A 70-73 drum brake spindle. The 70-73 drum and disc brake spindle has a larger pin and a slightly larger outer tie rod mounting hole on the steering arm. 6. A 70-73 purpose built disc brake spindle which is essentially identical with the 68-69 except that the pin and tie rod mount hole are larger on the 70-73. This spindle uses the same bracket, caliper, and rotor as the 68-69. 7. A purpose built disc brake spindle which was essentially identical to the 70-73 model except that it uses a floating type single piston caliper and associated bracket. The outer tie rod mounting hole is larger than the 70-73. This spindle was used on the 74-77 Maverick and the 75-80 Granada (Millions were made). It uses an 11" rotor. 8. A purpose built disc brake spindle used only on the Lincoln Versailles. It is identical to the Granada except that the lower ball joint mount hole is larger. Mustang II and Pinto used a different type of spindle but the same calipers as the Granada/Maverick. All 8 of these Falcon based knuckle/bracket systems used the same spindle to control arm geometry and yield the same hub face to hub face track width. IMPORTANT NOTE Spindles types 3-8 have identical steering geometry! The steering arm for #1 and 2 (65-66 Mustang) are slightly different than the rest. The Brake Hard Lines The hard line that connects to the flex brake hose on 65-66 must be extended to accommodate differences between the front oriented wheel cylinder and the rear oriented brake caliper. All other years of Mustang are correctly oriented as is. The best hose to use with the swap for 65-66 is the one used on Pinto. It has the correct hose connections and is slightly longer than the Granada type. It is essential to plumb in some type of proportioning valve when doing the swap. One may use the original type of combo valve used on most 70-late 80's mid sized Ford, or the adjustable needle valve type available from Summit and others. The combo valve incorporates proportioning, distribution, and leak detection in the same valve. I believe that if the correct combo valve is used it is far superior to the adjustable type valve. I say the correct valve because the internals are slightly different for some mid sized applications to account for different gross vehicle weights and weight distributions. I have examined many of the valves and only detect a difference for large size vs. mid sized vehicles. All used combo valves should be inspected before reuse. Many will have internal corrosion and/or are plugged up. Master Cylinders All driven Mustangs should have their original single reservoir master cylinders replaced with more modern dual reservoir master cylinders. The dual types isolate the hydraulics of the front wheels from that of the back. This gives you a measure of safety if a line fails since you will than only lose the front or the back brakes, not both. Many recommend the manual brake master cylinder from 74 Maverick. This master cylinder has the fittings on the outboard side and is marginally easier to plumb. It also has a retained push rod which must be removed since the Mustangs push rod should be used. Power brake master cylinders from maverick, Granada, and early Fox bodied cars work just as well since they have the same piston bore and fitting placement. All Ford master cylinders have the same mounting dimensions. They mainly differ in piston bore size and fitting size and placement. Wheel Fitment There are two issues relating to wheel fitment to swapped disc brakes. 1. The snout (bearing boss) of the Granada type rotor has a larger diameter than 68-73 rotors and will not fit through the 65-73 type wheel’s hub hole (2.8" vs. about 2.5"). This means that original steel wheels will not fit. Magnums will fit since they have the larger hub hole. 2. The calipers on 68-73 and Granada types may interfere with the inside of the wheel (they may stick out too far outboard). This may be remedied by slight grinding or by using thin wheel spacers. Some 14" and most 15" aftermarket wheels will fit with the swaps. Performance The single piston calipers using the 11" rotor are plenty sufficient for this application. I feel that putting a bracket on early drum spindles and fitting oversized calipers and rotors is unwise. The pre 1970 spindles had less massive pin and face flange and were not designed for that load. Most bracket type swap systems do not have a dust shield available for them. There are some enthusiasts who insist that the use of Granada and by extension 68-73 swaps (Granada and all 67 and later spindles have the same steering geometry) on 65-66 will result in dire bumpsteer issues. There is a small difference in the steering arm geometry between 65-66 and later spindles. In any case, 65-66 is known for bumpsteer even as originally set up. I don’t believe that the difference is significant to a driver car. Availability of Parts All of the small parts, the rotors, and remanufactured calipers are available for 68-73 and Granada swaps. They are very economical. Spindles and brackets are still available as salvage from junkyards, but they are becoming scarce and the condition of most is poor. I seldom find useable shields and about 1/3 of the spindles that I find have scored or corroded pins. My Interest I refurbed a lot of Granada spindles during 2004-05 but eventually ran out of decent sources. I'm not saying you can't find a set if you look in the right place and are willing to remove them yourself. They cost around $100-150. For this you get a corroded mass of metal and grease. Unless you can verify their utility, don't bother with junkyard rotors or calipers. I prefer the Granada type system to the 70-73 type for three reasons. The caliper piston is larger on the Granada, I believe that the floating caliper to bracket mount is superior, and the remanufactured calipers, hoses, and small parts are much less expensive for the Granada type. The lacks of spindle cores lead me to investigate the possibility of reproducing Granada type spindle/bracket/shield systems. Well, after 5 prototypes and a lot of money I now have production master molds made. I am currently having a first batch made. They will be available in late December. They will include new very high strength steel spindles and brackets, better steel than the original steel spindles and iron bracket. All dimensions and geometry are carefully reproduced using laser measurement devices and machined on CNC equipment. Also included are new dust shields, mounting flanges, and proper bolts. I will also offer correct wheel bearings, small parts, master cylinders, calipers, slotted rotors, and a new OEM correct Ford style combo valve. This first model is best suited to application on 67-73 models. I will soon offer a second model specifically for 65-66. A third model will be a 70-73 type reproduction and then a 65-66 type based on the 70-73 type spindles. I'm also considering making a model specifically for 54-58 Ford. If you are interested in any of these upcoming products you can email me at info@discbrakeswap.com . I will offer allfordmustang.com and other related forum members a discount. Just ask. Remember, these products are not currently available.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #8 by bubba22349 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 7:17 pm

StarDiero75 wrote:I've always heard any year usually works and the tie rods just need to be adjusted. So what would need to be done? If the arms are longer, could i use a mustang center link since its shorter to compensate?


This depends on how many changes you want to make. No changing the center link could defeat your original stated preference of keeping your existing newer parts i.e. The tie rods.
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #9 by bubba22349 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 7:27 pm

StarDiero75 wrote:The only issues I can find that I'll have is that i may have bumpsteer a little bit, but the original geometry was prone to that in the first place.


Exactly right! This is also why Ford changed so many of the front suspendtion parts for 1965 Falcons / Comets models, including the Spindels, steering arm, idler arm, center link, and tie rods to the better designed parts improving their steering geometry.

In the other post in about the last part the guy is saying much the same thing as I already have said too. So yes it's your choice, good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #10 by StarDiero75 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 7:39 pm

bubba22349 wrote:
StarDiero75 wrote:I've always heard any year usually works and the tie rods just need to be adjusted. So what would need to be done? If the arms are longer, could i use a mustang center link since its shorter to compensate?


This depends on how many changes you want to make. No changing the center link could defeat your original stated preference of keeping your existing newer parts i.e. The tie rods.

Id like to make as few changes as possible. I'm looking into using the sleeve for the tie rod to fit it into the V8 spindle.

Theres a guy in my local Falcon club chapter who did a 78 swap into his 1965 L6 car and he had no issues. He upgraded to a V8 and changed the steering to V8, he's using all stock parts other than the granada spindles and brake parts. Now the L6 and V8 geometries should be pretty much the same right? Same width of car, same spindle arm length, etc. Its just a beefier design right?

I'm just very confused as I talk to people they say they dont have issues, but online forums say differently. Is this one of those, sometimes it works great, sometimes not kinda things?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #11 by bubba22349 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:42 pm

StarDiero75 wrote:
bubba22349 wrote:
StarDiero75 wrote:I've always heard any year usually works and the tie rods just need to be adjusted. So what would need to be done? If the arms are longer, could i use a mustang center link since its shorter to compensate?


This depends on how many changes you want to make. No changing the center link could defeat your original stated preference of keeping your existing newer parts i.e. The tie rods.

Id like to make as few changes as possible. I'm looking into using the sleeve for the tie rod to fit it into the V8 spindle.

"1. Sure that's what I picked up in your post having already replace some parts with new."

Theres a guy in my local Falcon club chapter who did a 78 swap into his 1965 L6 car and he had no issues. He upgraded to a V8 and changed the steering to V8, he's using all stock parts other than the granada spindles and brake parts. Now the L6 and V8 geometries should be pretty much the same right? Same width of car, same spindle arm length, etc. Its just a beefier design right?

"2. Yes this is mostly the case on the 1965's, but even the 1965 six'es had quite beefy parts compared to the older models. Some say there isn't any differance between the V8 and Six Spindels I haven't compared them up close to say for sure. I know that this wasn't the case on the 1964 and older models that I did work on often."

I'm just very confused as I talk to people they say they dont have issues, but online forums say differently. Is this one of those, sometimes it works great, sometimes not kinda things?


3. I believe this can be because of the intended use of the cars as well as the expectations of those people that are building them. Ie say like for auto cross, road corse, vintage Trans am, and many other types of racing where their all looking to get the maximum performance. All you need to do is drive any car that's 2 to 3 decades newer than a Falcon / Comet and you can see there is quite a bit of room for improvement in handeling, braking ect. Some people also can't be happy without going to the extremes and also have the money to build a compleate new tube chassis or most of one under their car. For a street only daily driver car you could make some compromises since ultimate handling maynot be as important as it is to many others.

4. Having drove and worked on these cars when they were new it's my OPIN that this mod of adding disk brakes will always work better than the original small Drum Brake design. Because of the great strides in performance, handing, braking and now hugely better tire designs that were only just starting to occur in mid year 1963 on into the later 1970's.

Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #12 by StarDiero75 » Sun Dec 30, 2018 2:30 am

bubba22349 wrote:
StarDiero75 wrote:
bubba22349 wrote:
This depends on how many changes you want to make. No changing the center link could defeat your original stated preference of keeping your existing newer parts i.e. The tie rods.

Id like to make as few changes as possible. I'm looking into using the sleeve for the tie rod to fit it into the V8 spindle.

"1. Sure that's what I picked up in your post having already replace some parts with new."

Theres a guy in my local Falcon club chapter who did a 78 swap into his 1965 L6 car and he had no issues. He upgraded to a V8 and changed the steering to V8, he's using all stock parts other than the granada spindles and brake parts. Now the L6 and V8 geometries should be pretty much the same right? Same width of car, same spindle arm length, etc. Its just a beefier design right?

"2. Yes this is mostly the case on the 1965's, but even the 1965 six'es had quite beefy parts compared to the older models. Some say there isn't any differance between the V8 and six Spindels I have compared them up close to say for sure. I know it wasn't the case on the 1964 and older models that I did work on often."

I'm just very confused as I talk to people they say they dont have issues, but online forums say differently. Is this one of those, sometimes it works great, sometimes not kinda things?


3. I believe this can be because of the intended use of the cars as well as the expectations of the people that are building them. Ie say like for auto cross, road corse, vintage Trans am, and many other types of racing all where their looking to get the maximum performance. All you need to do is drive any car that's 2 to 3 decades newer than a Falcon / Comet and you can see there is quite a bit of room for improvement in handeling, braking ect. Some people also can't be happy without going to the extremes and have the money to build a compleate new tube chassis or most one under their car. For a street only daily driver car you could make some compromises since ultimate handling maynot be as important as it is to many others.

4. Having drove and worked on these cars when they were new it's my OPIN that this mod of adding disk brakes will always work better than the original small Drum Brake design. Because great strides in performance, handing, braking and now hugely better tire designs that were only just starting to occur in mid year 1963 on into the later 1970's.

Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Thanks a lot for your input man i really appreciate it. I'll see how it comes out, worse case, i put the L6 spindles back on and get a late 60s ford and have a nice disk setup for it.

I'll update when i finally get to doing this. Since i gotta collect everything else. The MC and prop valve will at least be the same lol.

Thanks again man.

The long post about what the guy said on spindles is worth other folks seeing. I don't know how you can make it to where others can easily see it but i think its perty valuable.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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bubba22349
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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #13 by bubba22349 » Sun Dec 30, 2018 1:27 pm

You are very welcome and I think you will be fine the disk front conversion is an excellent upgrade once you have it installed you won't ever want to go back. While you at it doing the Spindel swap if you haven't already done the Arining / Shelby UCA drop this would be a good time to do it and also gain a little better handeling in the bargin (see below link for details). There are a site or two online that have the template you can print one off if you want so is almost a free mod to do, not counting your time and tools. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #14 by StarDiero75 » Sun Dec 30, 2018 3:08 pm

bubba22349 wrote:You are very welcome and I think you will be fine the disk front conversion is an excellent upgrade once you have it installed you won't ever want to go back. While you at it doing the Spindel swap if you haven't already done the Arining / Shelby UCA drop this would be a good time to do it and also gain a little better handeling in the bargin (see below link for details). There are a site or two online that have the template you can print one off if you want so is almost a free mod to do, not counting your time and tools. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html

No i haven't done that yet or even heard of it. Very interesting article on how to do that, I think i will do that. I'll probably get the metal template from him, just to be safe for me. I really dont want to take a risk i drill incorrectly.

Thanks a lot man!
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #15 by bubba22349 » Sun Dec 30, 2018 3:15 pm

StarDiero75 wrote:
bubba22349 wrote:You are very welcome and I think you will be fine the disk front conversion is an excellent upgrade once you have it installed you won't ever want to go back. While you at it doing the Spindel swap if you haven't already done the Arining / Shelby UCA drop this would be a good time to do it and also gain a little better handeling in the bargin (see below link for details). There are a site or two online that have the template you can print one off if you want so is almost a free mod to do, not counting your time and tools. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html

No i haven't done that yet or even heard of it. Very interesting article on how to do that, I think i will do that. I'll probably get the metal template from him, just to be safe for me. I really dont want to take a risk i drill incorrectly.

Thanks a lot man!


Your welcome there are many other things that can be done to improve the handing performance of the Falcons, Comets, and Musangs that you can add over time. These are mostly all tried and true old school mods that were fairly well know to my generation and many of the pervious too that I had learned it from. One other help is the newer mod of the roller spring perch conversion (see link below for that how to). In the older days we used to use the 1960 Falcon spring perches that had solid bushings that you could grease hard to find now but the rollers are even better, this would also be a good time to install them while you have it apart. You can find info on other mods that can be done in the Steering and Suspention forums with the exception of the two mods above require the most front suspension disassembly most other the mods can be added a little at a time. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Roller Spring Perches
https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/200 ... /index.php
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #16 by StarDiero75 » Mon Dec 31, 2018 12:19 am

I have seen the roller perches. I had replaced those too when i did my front end. I gotta get a few more years out of that stuff before I csn justify replacing them again. Same thing with my front sway bar, i shoulda put a thicker one in (still using the stock one). I do plan to put a rear sway bar in. I'll be replacing my leaf spring bushings/shackles here soon, any mods to know before I actually replace stuff?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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bubba22349
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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #17 by bubba22349 » Mon Dec 31, 2018 12:53 am

If you still have your old spring perches you could use those to make the set of roller ones out of, then sell or trade off your newer ones same with the sway bar. Ok off the top in no particular order A GT V8 sway bar or 3/4 in aftermarket works good with a 5/8 rear sway bar some people like a 1 inch front bar and more depends how stif of ride you want. Straightening the spring towers so they are standing up is good to do then stitch weld them next to the factory spot welds and add some extra steel plates like we're used on the 1969 Boss Mustangs. An Eexport Brace and a six cylinder Monto Carlo Bar, get the lower bolt in crossmember installed under the engine too if you don't have one. Set of good shocks like Konis, a roller idler arm helps if you don't have power steering, you can use a power steering gear box (without the power assist) it will give you quicker steering ratio. Subframe connectors, box in the lower control arms, set up the upper control arms for less friction, a set of Shelby style (traction masters) traction bars or a set of Cal Tracks. How's the springs in it? Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #18 by StarDiero75 » Mon Dec 31, 2018 3:20 am

bubba22349 wrote:If you still have your old spring perches you could use those to make the set of roller ones out of, then sell or trade off your newer ones same with the sway bar. Ok off the top in no particular order A GT V8 sway bar or 3/4 in aftermarket works good with a 5/8 rear sway bar some people like a 1 inch front bar and more depends how stif of ride you want. Straightening the spring towers so they are standing up is good to do then stitch weld them next to the factory spot welds and add some extra steel plates like we're used on the 1969 Boss Mustangs. An Eexport Brace and a six cylinder Monto Carlo Bar, get the lower bolt in crossmember installed under the engine too if you don't have one. Set of good shocks like Konis, a roller idler arm helps if you don't have power steering, you can use a power steering gear box (without the power assist) it will give you quicker steering ratio. Subframe connectors, box in the lower control arms, set up the upper control arms for less friction, a set of Shelby style (traction masters) traction bars or a set of Cal Tracks. How's the springs in it? Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Crap thats a lot. I tossed the old ones. They squeaked to all heaven and if i coulda burned them i woulda haha.

I like my ride being semi comfy, so the 3/4 front and 5/8 rear will probably be fine.

I currently have Gas-A-Just KYB shocks in the front and Gabriel hijackers in the rear so i can change the ride height when i got weight in the bed.

I do have the under engine brace, but i don't have a monte carlo bar, does the v8 one fit the l6 and my chrome air cleaner? I don't care really if its bent or straight. Is the mustang one the same? What is the export brace? Is that the thing that goes from the center of the body to the top of the shock towers? I hate that thing. I wish it were removable.

I just rebuilt the stock box so i dont want to ditch that, but i know a guy who did the same for the quick ratio. It was a but to steer from a stop, but once moving was fine. The roller idler arm sounds nice though. I may do that when i screw with putting the spindles on and the UCA drop.

I want to do subframe connectors. When going down the road, especially windy roads, i hear a lot of creaking. Drives me nuts.

I will consider the stitch welding. My step father can weld, I'm not sure how to do the extra steel plates though.

Heres a pic for how the spings sit. I think they're fine. The car sits well with weight in the front. And pics of under the hood for reference ( yes
I know the car got hit, it was a hit and run at a shop and they refused to fix it; it looks like it wasnt very fast, the valve cover is now painted and the exhaust manifold burned off all the paint lol)
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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bubba22349
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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #19 by bubba22349 » Mon Dec 31, 2018 12:18 pm

StarDiero75 wrote:
bubba22349 wrote:If you still have your old spring perches you could use those to make the set of roller ones out of, then sell or trade off your newer ones same with the sway bar. Ok off the top in no particular order A GT V8 sway bar or 3/4 in aftermarket works good with a 5/8 rear sway bar some people like a 1 inch front bar and more depends how stif of ride you want. Straightening the spring towers so they are standing up is good to do then stitch weld them next to the factory spot welds and add some extra steel plates like we're used on the 1969 Boss Mustangs. An Eexport Brace and a six cylinder Monto Carlo Bar, get the lower bolt in crossmember installed under the engine too if you don't have one. Set of good shocks like Konis, a roller idler arm helps if you don't have power steering, you can use a power steering gear box (without the power assist) it will give you quicker steering ratio. Subframe connectors, box in the lower control arms, set up the upper control arms for less friction, a set of Shelby style (traction masters) traction bars or a set of Cal Tracks. How's the springs in it? Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Crap thats a lot. I tossed the old ones. They squeaked to all heaven and if i coulda burned them i woulda haha.

I like my ride being semi comfy, so the 3/4 front and 5/8 rear will probably be fine.

I currently have Gas-A-Just KYB shocks in the front and Gabriel hijackers in the rear so i can change the ride height when i got weight in the bed.

I do have the under engine brace, but i don't have a monte carlo bar, does the v8 one fit the l6 and my chrome air cleaner? I don't care really if its bent or straight. Is the mustang one the same? What is the export brace? Is that the thing that goes from the center of the body to the top of the shock towers? I hate that thing. I wish it were removable.

I just rebuilt the stock box so i dont want to ditch that, but i know a guy who did the same for the quick ratio. It was a but to steer from a stop, but once moving was fine. The roller idler arm sounds nice though. I may do that when i screw with putting the spindles on and the UCA drop.

I want to do subframe connectors. When going down the road, especially windy roads, i hear a lot of creaking. Drives me nuts.

I will consider the stitch welding. My step father can weld, I'm not sure how to do the extra steel plates though.

Heres a pic for how the spings sit. I think they're fine. The car sits well with weight in the front. And pics of under the hood for reference ( yes
I know the car got hit, it was a hit and run at a shop and they refused to fix it; it looks like it wasnt very fast, the valve cover is now painted and the exhaust manifold burned off all the paint lol)


Yes the idea of using the roller bearings is to reduce fiction and allows the chassis to react quicker file that away for future when you need to replace or repair those parts. I just did a lengthy post recently that covers the spring tower repairs and reenforcement, it also will answer a few other of you questions check it out. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=79391#p613096

The Mustang Monto Carlo Bars are the same size in lenght so they do fit the Falcons and Comets too. However the V8 Monto Carlo Bar won't clear your air cleaner so you need to find or make one for a six as it will clear your air cleaner, a picture of one of them is in the above link. There is also a picture of a factory style Export Brace. If you wanted to build you own Export Brace out of tubeing you could also make it easily removable. Their are severial site members that have done this so you could search for those, plus there are a number of companies that make this style brace too. Your Ranchero still looks real good would be fairly easy to repair that little bit of damage to the bumper. It also sits nice and level so at this time you can forget about the springs and shocks from my above list.

Here's a recipe working with what you have
As you do the Disk brake Spindle swap while its apart do the Shelby drop and tower beef up.
Install the subframe connecters as soon as your able.
Add a Monto Carlo bar when you can, forget about the export brace until later or go direct to a tube type brace if you need it to be removeable.
Swap in the sway bars when you can
Add the roller idler arm

These mods should give you an excellent brake system and quite a bit better handeling. Good luck and have a Happy New Year :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Bought 67 Mustang Disk Spindles

Post #20 by StarDiero75 » Mon Dec 31, 2018 12:29 pm

Sounds like a plan to me man. I'll add that stuff to the never ending list of stuff to do to the Ranchero lol.

I appreciate all your input man. Thanks a lot and have a great new years!
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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