Found an engine

Georgia200

Well-known member
This weekend Im picking up a 1974 250, complete from air cleaner to pan with an ac compressor and ps pump.

Im also picking up a 8in and all four drum brakes.

When finished I will have the 250, C4, 2.79, ps, ac, 5 lug power drum brakes, 215-75-14 on Ranger 14x6 steel wheels and 67 Mustang hubcaps.

As soon as I disassemble and see that the engine is sound I will start collecting all the misc parts to swap from the 200 to 250.

Now I need to figure out how to build the 250.
 
do u have a ranger or maverick to go with it?
sounds like a great start!
 
If its got the flat top head you could look at getting it setup for a direct mount 2bbl. Thats what im doing with my E0xxx head on my C6xxx 200.
 
Ive got a new 1100 carb I will use for now and sometime in the future I will use my other head for a direct mount 2100.

First thing will be getting the bottom end built and getting the parts to reuse my 200 C4, its a reman unit that is in excellent condition.
 
"...do u have a Ranger or Maverick ..." or something else to put them in?
 
Oh, OK, enjoy it George!
Will it B a DD, a track or strip mo-cheen, a hot rod?
 
What vehicle is the 8-inch out of?
If it's out of a Maverick, it will be too narrow for your 67 Mustang.
Maverick - 56.5"
67-68 Mustang - 59.25"
Also check the distance between the spring perches on the 8-inch to make sure they're wide enough to fit your springs.
 
The 8 inch is out of a 69 Mustang. If its in good shape, in it goes, if not, I will have it rebuilt into a limited slip.

The 5 lug drums come complete with spindles from a 68 Mustang. I dont need the spindles, they are the same as my 67 spindles. Im going to tear the brakes apart for the backing plates, hubs, drums and replace everything else.

My car is in good shape, the PO rebuilt the front end, C4 is a reman about a year old, it has factory power brakes, rust free.

I hope the weather doesnt throw a wrench into my weekend plans, forecast is heavy rain and possible tornadoes.
 
A mixed bag:

I was on the road all day Fri and Sat on a parts run, about 800 miles.

The 8in is in great shape, paid $175. 2.79 gears and 10x2 brakes. Im going to clean it up, change the gear oil and bolt it in.

The same guy sold me a set of 10x2.5 drums for the front, excellent condition, rust free, everything inside new. All I have to do is grease them up and bolt them on. $50

I paid $30 for the 250. Seller wanted it gone. It has all the brackets and pulleys for ac and ps.

I got it home and pulled the plugs, theres water in the block. He lost his garage in Hurricane Michael and he said its been outside for about 2 weeks.

Im going to pull the head, drain it, pour ATF in the cylinders and let it sit for a couple days. It wouldnt turn over with a breaker bar, Im guessing the rings are rusted to the cylinder walls. I hope I can save the block.
 
Progress:

I have a D2DE block and a C9DE head. There was a steel head gasket.

Pulled the accessories and head off today.

There was water in #5 and some rust scale, otherwise the bores looked great. If not for #5, I may have been able to get away with honing and a ring job.

I had a lot of trouble getting the dizzy out, but it finally gave up the fight and came out.

Im still fighting the oil filter and exhaust manifold.

The converter bolts are rounded, now that the dizzy is out Im hoping I can get the crank to turn

The oil pan has oil in it, no water on the dipstick.
 
Georgia200":2lom7cf8 said:
A couple pics. There doesnt seem like room to increase the size of the exhaust valves to 1.5 in.
That to me looks like a closed chamber. I believe those are nice to have.
 
Howdy All:

Georgia- Take a look at the suffix after the 4 digit head code. If it is an "M", you are good. If it is any other code you have an earlier head with a 52cc chamber. Check it out.

On the 1.5" exhaust the diameter is only .012" larger than the stock 1.38" exhaust valves. Half of that diameter difference goes to each side so the new valve will come .006" closer to the edge of the chamber. No worries.

I hope that helps. Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
That to me looks like a closed chamber. I believe those are nice to have.

Actually, that is a typical 200/250 open chamber. See the comparison below:

1970 closed chamber 170 ci head

170-1.jpg

1969 open chamber 250 ci head (getting a cc: check done after milling)

250-2.jpg
 
what's the difference mean?
compression? ease in valve change? shrouding?
thnx!
 
It is an M casting, the same as my 200 head. It has a 1.75 carb opening, same as my 200 head. Im going to reuse my new 1100 for now, maybe mill the other head for a 2100 down the road.

Im going to need a new rocker assembly. The standard non-adjustable will be fine. Where is the best place to source one?
 
Howdy Back:

One more question- What is the diameter of the intake valves faces. They could measure 1.68" (early) or 1.75" (later). The change to 1.75" valve happened sometime in 1974/75. 1.75" valves measured across the faces would be ideal.

Since the engine still had a steel shim head gasket I'm guessing the has not been rebuilt yet. If so the combustion chambers should measure about 62 cc in volume. Have you given any thought to a goal compression ratio with this head?

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
Back
Top