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68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

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MustangDadDrake
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68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

Post #1 by MustangDadDrake » Wed Jan 16, 2019 12:56 pm

Hello,

I am starting to think about my front and rear suspension and I want to make sure everything is in good working order and just understand it better.

Currently, my steering wheel is not straight when I am driving straight. Not sure if the alignment is out of whack or if the steering wheel is out of whack.

Couple questions:
1. How can I make sure my suspension is properly tuned up and in working order?
2. I would like to set my own alignment. I have read that I need one of those magnetic castor/camber 'levels' and drive up on wax paper, trash bags, or two pieces of Plexiglas with lube in between.

Do I only need one of these:
Image

3. Is there an order I should follow to make sure the suspension is running well?

I have done a lot of searches and everything ends up giving me information on upgrading my suspension. I just want the stock suspension but working well.

Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for your response.

EDIT Image: It was too big.
Last edited by MustangDadDrake on Sat Feb 09, 2019 1:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1968 Mustang from Pops. Current to do list 1. Complete Tune 2. Noise :? 3. Alignment 4. Front Spring Squeak 5. Install Chrome Drip Rail 6. Dash Lights Don't Work 7. New Headlights

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bubba22349
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Re: 68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

Post #2 by bubba22349 » Wed Jan 16, 2019 5:52 pm

MustangDadDrake wrote:Hello,

I am starting to think about my front and rear suspension and I want to make sure everything is in good working order and just understand it better.

Currently, my steering wheel is not straight when I am driving straight. Not sure if the alignment is out of whack or if the steering wheel is out of whack.

Couple questions:
1. How can I make sure my suspension is properly tuned up and in working order?
2. I would like to set my own alignment. I have read that I need one of those magnetic castor/camber 'levels' and drive up on wax paper, trash bags, or two pieces of Plexiglas with lube in between.

Do I only need one of these:
Image

3. Is there an order I should follow to make sure the suspension is running well?

I have done a lot of searches and everything ends up giving me information on upgrading my suspension. I just want the stock suspension but working well.

Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for your response.


Yes something is out of wack! It might be only that the toe in setting was done without the steering box being set on the high point / center point.

1. Check all the moveable parts for wear or looseness.

2. You can use one by setting one side at a time or with two if you want to do both of them together.

3. The caster and camber settings are done first together then the toe setting is done last. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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powerband
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Re: 68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

Post #3 by powerband » Wed Jan 16, 2019 6:57 pm

Off center wheel usually is maladjusted tie rod ends causing not centered box unless steering wheel has been off or switched.

Car needs to be level to use properly. A 'water' level made from clear tubing length can be used. Composite 1' sq floor tiles are handy for fine leveling on a flat spot and Grease between them permits caster/camber adjustment turning right/left in place easily. The bubble gauge has caster/camber directions but Toe in is usually set with a bar and uprights or strings from rear to front. All adjustments interact so careful adjust-check , adjust - recheck, repeat ...

I get it as good as I can and then usually take to my alignment guy for laser machine verification and toe in/out finesse'ing

haev fun
"Take time to stop and smell... The roadkill..."

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B RON CO
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Re: 68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

Post #4 by B RON CO » Fri Jan 18, 2019 7:33 am

Hi, it is nice to know all the alignment numbers from a computerized machine. Using a machine it is also easier to find what is out of whack.
That being said, I would check the toe with a tape measure and a couple of 2x8 boards leaning against the front wheels. For instance, if you measure 62 1/2 inches in back of the front wheels, and 62 1/4 inches in front, you have 1/4 toe in.
My Saturday night stock car buddies use "toe plates" all the time.
I don't know what the specs are for your car, and modern cars measure in degrees anyway.
I would look for @ 3/16 toe in, on level ground, steering wheel pointed straight forward,and air pressure set, but more important is that the steering box be centered before any changes are made. Here is where the computerized machine is better. You can center the box and dial in each side perfectly.
Most cars just need the toe to be set, and toe is the easiest adjustment to check and adjust. Without an alignment machine it is not always obvious which wheel to adjust on, and remember a small 1/2 turn of the tie rod sleeve is a big change in toe.
We also use a magnetic castor camber gauge.
You can't just turn the wheels on the ground because friction will ruin the measurements. You need the wheel plates to eliminate friction between the tires and the ground.
Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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bubba22349
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Re: 68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

Post #5 by bubba22349 » Fri Jan 18, 2019 12:36 pm

1960 to 1970 Ford, Mustang, & Murcury Alignment settings with or without the Arning / Shelby drop.
1. It is very important that you have no more than .25 degrees of difference from passenger to drivers side.
2 A. For a light weight small six car 144 to 200 engines 1.0 to 2.0 degrees of castor but note that on non power steering street use car that the more castor you use the steering effort increases when going slow like parking so this is a good reason to use a roller idler arm for reduced steering effort. With power steering you can use the 2B specs.
2.B for a 250 six or V8's use 2.0 to 3.5 see the above note also
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber
4. 1/16 to 1/8 inch toe in.

There many of other mods can be added a little at a time or as your budget allows, Some of these parts you might be able to make yourself depending on your skill level. Good luck. :thumbup: :nod:

The Arining / Shelby UCA drop is well worth the effort to gain better handling
https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html

Six Cylinder Monto Carlo Bar
http://bzerob.com/garage/mustang65/images/6cylbar.jpg

Factory Type Export Brace
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustan ... ustang.axd

Building Adjustable Strut Rods
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=72728&p=562667&hilit=Adjustable+strut+rods#p562667

Subframe Conectors
https://www.cjponyparts.com/subframe-co ... 70/p/SFC1/

Roller Spring Perches Mod
https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/200 ... /index.php

Spring Tower rebuild and repairs
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=73055&p=561596&hilit=Mustang+spring+tower#p561596
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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MustangDadDrake
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Re: 68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

Post #6 by MustangDadDrake » Fri Jan 18, 2019 2:28 pm

Thanks guys for all the responses. I plan to get under there this weekend and see what is going on exactly. I do think something is wrong with the steering wheel. Probably removed when they redid the interior so Im going to take that off and see what is going on there. Also it is a little lose so I will tighten it up as well.

@BRONCO
Yes I believe the best way to do this would be using the computer but 2 places have failed in setting the alignment because they do not know the specs (and I did not at the time). I figure I would learn how to do it my self. Even the old alignment plates/tables are expensive for me. Especially when I do not plan to set the alignment often. I think I will take Powerbands advice and use the tiles with grease in between. Most importantly thanks for explaining the toe measurement to me I have read that before but your explanation really made it click for me.

@Bubba
Thank you for sending me the specs on this and thank you for the links to all the upgrades I think export bar would be first on my list once I get it all dialed in.

I will keep you guys updated with some pictures hopefully soon.

Thanks again!
1968 Mustang from Pops. Current to do list 1. Complete Tune 2. Noise :? 3. Alignment 4. Front Spring Squeak 5. Install Chrome Drip Rail 6. Dash Lights Don't Work 7. New Headlights

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bubba22349
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Re: 68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

Post #7 by bubba22349 » Fri Jan 18, 2019 2:54 pm

You are very welcome! I forgot one though the Arining / Shelby UCA drop is another mod that is well worth the effort to gain better handling especially if your rebuilding the front suspension, but even if your not its a great mod (see below link for details). There are a site or two online that have the template you can print out this makes it an almost a free mod to do, not counting your time and tools. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html

Actually after the above mod the Monto Carlo bar is a better next mod to triangulate the spring towers or use it togeather with the Export brace. Then do the front end alignment. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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B RON CO
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Re: 68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

Post #8 by B RON CO » Fri Jan 18, 2019 7:49 pm

Hi, if you paid for a alignment you should get the numbers, a printout or screenshot.
The toe in in degrees should be close to
.12 to .50 * on a compurized alignment machine.
You can go with @2 degrees castor as Bubba mentioned, equal on both sides, I like more castor because it gives more high speed stability, and will let the steering wheel return to center
Camber is weird, old school guys will give a little more on the passenger side, but Bubba gives good normal numbers.
The issue is castor and camber are a pain to adjust.
Also it is important to clamp the steering wheel so it doesn't move after the steering box is centered.
Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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MustangDadDrake
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Re: 68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

Post #9 by MustangDadDrake » Mon Jan 21, 2019 5:55 pm

The first shop didnt even attempt to do the alignment because they didnt know the specs the second shop, I don't want to talk about :x

I wasn't able to get under the car to investigate thoroughly but I did have time to read through the shop manual where it gives a pretty good description on how to adjust camber, castor, and toe. However it requires some odd tool that I cannot seem to find anywhere. Do you guys have any knowledge of this tool or where I can find it or something similar? Tool T65P 3000

Photos from the shop manual.

https://ibb.co/LdHjLQy
https://ibb.co/0YmPjmD
https://ibb.co/BP6jTtJ
https://ibb.co/SNB8cxt
1968 Mustang from Pops. Current to do list 1. Complete Tune 2. Noise :? 3. Alignment 4. Front Spring Squeak 5. Install Chrome Drip Rail 6. Dash Lights Don't Work 7. New Headlights

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Re: 68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

Post #10 by B RON CO » Wed Jan 23, 2019 9:16 am

Hi, you can check and adjust the front end without the special tools.
Any adjustment on the strut for castor, the eccentric for camber, and the tie rod sleeve for toe will affect the other adjustments.
In other words, changing the castor will change the toe (to a lesser degree).
I would get the castor and camber set first, and set the toe last.
If you can measure and post your numbers before changing anything you will get more feedback before diving in.
My Chiltons manual gives different specs the Bubba gave.
Goodluck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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MustangDadDrake
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Re: 68 Mustang - Suspension/Alignment

Post #11 by MustangDadDrake » Sat Feb 09, 2019 1:03 pm

Update Time!

I decided to get some old tools I found on ebay to measure castor and camber. I am planning to use trash bags/plexi glass with grease as turn plates and use a protractor to measure degrees. My air compressor should come in today so I can inflate the tires to proper PSI. There are a couple other things I want to get before I run my tests. I should have measurements and updates in a couple weeks.

Here is the photo of my new gauges they are sweet :D

Image
Image
1968 Mustang from Pops. Current to do list 1. Complete Tune 2. Noise :? 3. Alignment 4. Front Spring Squeak 5. Install Chrome Drip Rail 6. Dash Lights Don't Work 7. New Headlights

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