250 Build in 67 Mustang

OP, I'm not understanding your opposition to decking the block? I do understand you are not wanting to Zero Deck the block, but you can have the block decked as much as needed to get the compression you want with whatever head you use. Does that make sense?
example: you want 9.2 to 1 static compression, depending on rods and pistons used you may end up needing the piston -0.30 in the hole, so you have the block decked to that spec. later if you need to surface the head you can and it will only slightly increase compression (0.007 off the head will raise CR to 9.3) Check out this Compression calculator run you numbers. I think you will find you are too worried about a minor detail.
http://www.diamondracing.net/tools/
Walt
 
Howdy All:

My computor died. Sorry for the delay in responding.

Pmuller- I don't disagree with you in most cases. The getting a zero deck height on a 250 is either or both complicated and/or expensive. Having built a street performance 250, I've been there. I choose to deck the block .070", use stock dished piston and did minimum milling of the head. I did smooth and polish the combustion chambers. Even at that I ended up with a 9.75 CR, which was all right for my elevation (5,000') and gearing (3.2:1). I ended up with an .080" deck height- not optimal for deck height and quench but way better than the .150" deck height I started with. I also ran a Comp 160 cam which helped to control cylinder pressure. It had great torque, good mileage and an almost smooth idle. This combo gave me all the performance I wanted and no knock, and on regular gas most of the time.

Since Georgia does not want to deck the block, custom rods and piston and opening the combustion chambers are the other way to get to a more effective quench effect. $$$$$$$$$$ in parts and machining.

So, Georgia, what did you decide to do with the block build?

Adios, David
 
I replied, but somehow it disappeared.

Its all a moot point until I get the block back and the machine shop tells me how far the pistons are down.

Its been a week, Im stopping by this AM to see where he is at.

I will be out of town this weekend and passing by a couple pull-a-parts. If I can find an E0 head, Im snagging it.
 
My block came out of the degreese tank and is soaking in evaporust.

Monday he will start work on it.

No luck on an E0 head, looks like my C9 head will have to do.
 
Disassembled the head today.

I dont think the head was ever off the engine.

Im planning on new everything.

I can buy a reman big log head for $400 + shipping from the west coast. Easy enough to install new springs, better seals and backcut the intake valves.

I could save my virgin C9 head for a spare.
 
Rats

Ive been working a couple hours a day in the garage getting all the engine odds and ends ready for paint/install.

I started on the oil pan yesterday. It had a lot of grease and sludge on it, cleaned all that off and dropped it in the vinegar bath last night.

Pulled it out today for a look over and found that the drain plug is stripped and the bottom has rust through holes.

I dont think a new 250 oil pan is available so its more internet surfing to locate a decent used one.

I feel like Im spending more time online than I am spending actually working on the engine.
 
Georgia200":1j8kwtk7 said:
I feel like Im spending more time...than I am spending actually working on the engine.
no matter the endeavor, 'the lill stuff', prep/wrap up, All Ways seems (well, in actuality it duz!) to take the longest.
Welcome to da make-it-happen worl.
(What's Econo say? "It aint...")
 
I have one I can sell you. I am on vac so when I get back on the Feb 3 I can get pics.
Georgia200":2dhhk8jf said:
Rats

Ive been working a couple hours a day in the garage getting all the engine odds and ends ready for paint/install.

I started on the oil pan yesterday. It had a lot of grease and sludge on it, cleaned all that off and dropped it in the vinegar bath last night.

Pulled it out today for a look over and found that the drain plug is stripped and the bottom has rust through holes.

I dont think a new 250 oil pan is available so its more internet surfing to locate a decent used one.

I feel like Im spending more time online than I am spending actually working on the engine.
 
Thanks, I will be here.

Checked on the block today. Its still soaking in evaporust, the crank is still in degreaser.

Im working on the head this weekend and starting my 5 lug swap.
 
:unsure: If you are going to be in Ft Pierce,you might want to check out the UDT meuseum(?) on North Beach if you have time.I grew up just up the road in Vero Beach.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Thanks, didnt know that was there. I also drive right by Big Daddys Museum.

Machine shop hasnt started on the block. Its still in Evaporust. These guys are older and working out of a shop behind the house. They will get to it when they get to it. I dropped the old pistons off so they can tell me how far down in the hole they are sitting. I still dont know what rods and pistons Im using.

In the mean time I received all my brake parts and am just about ready for the conversion to 5 lug power drum brakes. I ordered a set of 215-75-14 WWs that may be in today to go on a set of 14x6 Torino GT wheels with my stock hubcaps. Today Im going to the Pull-A-Part to get a set of 4.0 valve spring retainers, I cant find them new anywhere, a 5 lug spare, and some spare lug nuts. Im also stopping by Summit to get axle seals and bearings.

The parts pile is growing, time to open the tool box and get to work.
 
:banghead: Hi Georgia200.I screwed up.It`s on South Beach.Sorry.Most anyone should be able to give directions.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
good its not wk of 17th, big vacaion wk. But
the SEALS'n big daddy Gerlis could B anothe kinda va-ca...
 
Never made it out of the driveway last weekend. Too much going on.

Im still in need of the 250 pan.

Cheapest way to send something like that is to wrap it in cardboard, then plastic wrap and put it on a Grayhound.
 
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