Short Block Build Plan - Thoughts?

You should make 180 RWHP and 200 RWTQ if not a little more with your build. I did a similar build with 10.5-1 C/R with a Clay Smith 274/274 110 cam advanced 4 degrees. I made 166 RWHP and 185 RWTQ. But I had a cracked piston and rings did not seal. So I left alot on the table.

Brian
 
I hope to get some good numbers like that!

I now have a dumb question: is there a difference between moly and plasma-moly piston rings? Or is the terminology synonymous? I can't find any "official" documentation anywhere they are different.
 
Matthew68":1o74mnmb said:
I hope to get some good numbers like that!

I now have a dumb question: is there a difference between moly and plasma-moly piston rings? Or is the terminology synonymous? I can't find any "official" documentation anywhere they are different.
Click to expand...

I am not sure either.
 
Both you guys need to get a camshaft with more lift to take advantage of the CI head. However you need longer valves so you can use better valve springs & be able to achieve more than .515" of lift.
The ideal cam would be a solid lifter cam with fast rate of lift. Intake duration in the 264+ area & exhaust 270+ with lift at least .550"
 
wsa111":2onsznzx said:
Both you guys need to get a camshaft with more lift to take advantage of the CI head. However you need longer valves so you can use better valve springs & be able to achieve more than .515" of lift.
The ideal cam would be a solid lifter cam with fast rate of lift. Intake duration in the 264+ area & exhaust 270+ with lift at least .550"
Click to expand...

My cam is 274/274 with .495" lift. If I went much higher on a street car might not be fun to driver. Even when I talked with Schneider cams he did not recommend that much for a street car. But it is what you want out of the car. I almost went solid for the 250 build.
 
65-coupe":3gum6l54 said:
wsa111":3gum6l54 said:
Both you guys need to get a camshaft with more lift to take advantage of the CI head. However you need longer valves so you can use better valve springs & be able to achieve more than .515" of lift.
The ideal cam would be a solid lifter cam with fast rate of lift. Intake duration in the 264+ area & exhaust 270+ with lift at least .550"
Click to expand...

My cam is 274/274 with .495" lift. If I went much higher on a street car might not be fun to driver. Even when I talked with Schneider cams he did not recommend that much for a street car. But it is what you want out of the car. I almost went solid for the 250 build.
Click to expand...
I'm anxious to see the final results on your 250.
In my opinion i would just advance the cam 2 degrees or since its a 250 straight up my be better.
Remember you will have plenty of torque with the 250 compared to the 200.
 
wsa111":27gmvwvp said:
65-coupe":27gmvwvp said:
wsa111":27gmvwvp said:
Both you guys need to get a camshaft with more lift to take advantage of the CI head. However you need longer valves so you can use better valve springs & be able to achieve more than .515" of lift.
The ideal cam would be a solid lifter cam with fast rate of lift. Intake duration in the 264+ area & exhaust 270+ with lift at least .550"
Click to expand...

My cam is 274/274 with .495" lift. If I went much higher on a street car might not be fun to driver. Even when I talked with Schneider cams he did not recommend that much for a street car. But it is what you want out of the car. I almost went solid for the 250 build.
Click to expand...
I'm anxious to see the final results on your 250.
In my opinion i would just advance the cam 2 degrees or since its a 250 straight up my be better.
Remember you will have plenty of torque with the 250 compared to the 200.
Click to expand...

That is the problem right now. I need to advance the cam to get it to match the specs. I am going to have a custom crank key made.
 
Does cloyes off a roller timing chain with broached keyway positions in the crank gear?? Could you get a machine shop to broach several keyway positions on your stock gear??
Have you checked the Damper to see if it zero's out @ TDC?? The 250 has little aftermarket support.
 
wsa111":19ibntsp said:
Does cloyes off a roller timing chain with broached keyway positions in the crank gear?? Could you get a machine shop to broach several keyway positions on your stock gear??
Have you checked the Damper to see if it zero's out @ TDC?? The 250 has little aftermarket support.
Click to expand...

No roller timing chain. Clay Smith gave me a guy to call and see if he can make crank keyway offset.
 
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